John Olson on tue 2 jan 01
Concerning you rough ware....thin elmers glue with water, paint on piece( =
glue should be about whole milk) it will run , so put wax paper down....let=
dry 24 hrs.....re-glaze.......
Arnolds Home Improvements on mon 4 jun 01
Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just opened the lid to the kiln to unload what I thought would be some
beautiful pots, my heart sank to my stomach and my smile to a frown.
I applied the glaze to thin what an ugly bunch of pots.
I thought I read on the list that you could re-glaze the pots, but I can't
seem to get the glaze to stick to the already glazed pot.
I tried layering the pot with Kero syrup (very sticky corn syrup) but when I
dip the pot the glaze dilutes the syrup and just slides into the glaze
bucket.
So what I'm asking is has anyone had this happen to them and what did you do
to make the glaze stick to the pots???
Also I have some glaze recipes with Borax in then, is this the regular Borax
you buy at the local grocery store???
Gene Arnold
mudduck@advi.net
playing in the mud in N.C.
Thanks in advance to all who reply!!!!!!!!
Judy Kanigel on tue 5 jun 01
Hi Gene,
Sorry about your glaze problem. One thing I learned from others is to heat
your refires as hot(warm) as you can comfortably handle. Then using tongs,
dip the pieces into your glaze bucket.
Avoid touching the newly glazed portions as much as possible, since it
easily rubs off even when dry. You can touch up the spots with a brush just
before loading into the kiln,if your glaze is forgiving.
Good luck !!!
Judy
In Cambridge
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
> Behalf Of Arnolds Home Improvements
> Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 5:27 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Thin glaze
>
>
> Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Just opened the lid to the kiln to unload what I thought would be some
> beautiful pots, my heart sank to my stomach and my smile to a frown.
> I applied the glaze to thin what an ugly bunch of pots.
>
> I thought I read on the list that you could re-glaze the pots, but I can't
> seem to get the glaze to stick to the already glazed pot.
>
> I tried layering the pot with Kero syrup (very sticky corn syrup)
> but when I
> dip the pot the glaze dilutes the syrup and just slides into the glaze
> bucket.
>
> So what I'm asking is has anyone had this happen to them and what
> did you do
> to make the glaze stick to the pots???
>
> Also I have some glaze recipes with Borax in then, is this the
> regular Borax
> you buy at the local grocery store???
>
> Gene Arnold
> mudduck@advi.net
> playing in the mud in N.C.
>
>
> Thanks in advance to all who reply!!!!!!!!
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> ____________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
David Cowdrill on tue 5 jun 01
>So what I'm asking is has anyone had this happen to them and what did you do
>to make the glaze stick to the pots???
Yes, it happens sooner or later to everyone. One way to help glaze stick
to an already glazed pot is to warm the pot to about 200 degrees (I use our
oven) then dip it in glaze. Don't go much higher in temperature or the
thermal shock when dipping in cool glaze will crack the pot.
David Cowdrill in Great Falls, Virginia
jon whitnie on tue 5 jun 01
Heating up the pots will allow the glaze to stick
better, and yes the borax is the twenty mule team
stuff. jon
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Dannon Rhudy on tue 5 jun 01
>>
>> I thought I read on the list that you could re-glaze the pots, but I can't
>> seem to get the glaze to stick to the already glazed pot.....
The simplest and easiest way to re-glaze pots that I have
found: Buy a box of wallpaper paste. It comes as a powder,
is available at paint stores, WalMart, home supplies, etc.
It is very cheap, a dollar or so for about a one-pound box.
Put the amount of glaze you think you will need - say a cup
full - in a container. Add wallpaper paste in the correct
proportion as stated on the box mixing directions. Let it
sit for a few minutes. Then the glaze can be brushed on
to whatever thickness desired. It will stay where you put
it, and hardens to a VERY strong consistency. Difficult
to remove once it is hard, so put it where you want it only.
If the pots must be dipped instead of brushed, then add
the appropriate amount to the glaze bucket. HOWEVER - it
does not "keep", because the paste thickens and hardens
the glaze, and leftovers must generally be thrown out.
DON'T put leftovers back into your regular glaze bucket.
Because of that, students here are permitted to brush it on only,
so a whole bucket of glaze isn't wasted.
Having said the above, it is always my recommendation NOT
to try to fix faulty pots, but instead to do them over. The
next batch will be better in every way, and you'll have
learned a lot more.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
H.M. Buchanan on tue 5 jun 01
Gene, The glaze was probably diluted too much with water and that caused
the problem in the first place so dip off as much as possible. I sink a
shallow plastic bowl in the center of the bucket just until the clear water
runs into it and dip or pump the water from that. SAVE THE WATER.It might
have some chemicals dissolved in it. For re-dipping you need the glaze to be
much too thick for ordinary glazing so you are going to re-use some of this
water to dilute the glaze for future use. Warming the pot is good
advice and for some unknown to me reason , scrubbing the pot with sponge
dipped in the glaze and letting it dry before re-dipping stops bare spots.
Be careful about how far down the pot you re-dip as the wet glaze has a
greater tendency to accumulate at the bottom. I have dried re-glazed pots
upside down and just touched up the rim.
As to your second question about borax, yes you can use grocery store borax.
My first successful underglaze 25+ years ago was made of borax, baking soda,
silica and clay. The problem with this kind of borax glaze is the formation
of crystals as it ages in the bucket. They can be strained out, re-dissolved
and added back. And while they are small may even give you some interesting
effects.
Good luck, Some of the best pots are glazed and re-glazed and glazed again.
Judi Buchanan,Flutter-by Pottery, Heidelberg, Mississippi
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arnolds Home Improvements"
To:
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 4:26 PM
Subject: Thin glaze
> I thought I read on the list that you could re-glaze the pots, but I can't
> seem to get the glaze to stick to the already glazed pot.
what did you do
to make the glaze stick to the pots?
I have some glaze recipes with Borax in then, is this the regular Borax
> you buy at the local grocery store???
> Gene Arnold
> mudduck@advi.net
> playing in the mud in N.C.
ILENE MAHLER on tue 5 jun 01
Heat up the pots in the oven when they are hot the glaze will
stick...Ilene in Conn
Arnolds Home Improvements wrote:
>
> Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Just opened the lid to the kiln to unload what I thought would be some
> beautiful pots, my heart sank to my stomach and my smile to a frown.
> I applied the glaze to thin what an ugly bunch of pots.
>
> I thought I read on the list that you could re-glaze the pots, but I can't
> seem to get the glaze to stick to the already glazed pot.
>
> I tried layering the pot with Kero syrup (very sticky corn syrup) but when I
> dip the pot the glaze dilutes the syrup and just slides into the glaze
> bucket.
>
> So what I'm asking is has anyone had this happen to them and what did you do
> to make the glaze stick to the pots???
>
> Also I have some glaze recipes with Borax in then, is this the regular Borax
> you buy at the local grocery store???
>
> Gene Arnold
> mudduck@advi.net
> playing in the mud in N.C.
>
> Thanks in advance to all who reply!!!!!!!!
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
William Moody on tue 5 jun 01
I have found that warming the pots before you re-dip them helps. The glaze
dries quickly so that it doesn't have time to slide off the pot. You can use
the borax from the grocery store as long as it is just borax an doesn't have
any fragrance or other stuff put in it.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arnolds Home Improvements"
To:
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 5:26 PM
Subject: Thin glaze
> Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Just opened the lid to the kiln to unload what I thought would be some
> beautiful pots, my heart sank to my stomach and my smile to a frown.
> I applied the glaze to thin what an ugly bunch of pots.
>
> I thought I read on the list that you could re-glaze the pots, but I can't
> seem to get the glaze to stick to the already glazed pot.
>
> I tried layering the pot with Kero syrup (very sticky corn syrup) but when
I
> dip the pot the glaze dilutes the syrup and just slides into the glaze
> bucket.
>
> So what I'm asking is has anyone had this happen to them and what did you
do
> to make the glaze stick to the pots???
>
> Also I have some glaze recipes with Borax in then, is this the regular
Borax
> you buy at the local grocery store???
>
> Gene Arnold
> mudduck@advi.net
> playing in the mud in N.C.
>
>
> Thanks in advance to all who reply!!!!!!!!
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Charles Moore on tue 5 jun 01
I have a variation on Dannon's wallpaper addition to re-glaze pots: I add
pre-mixed wallpaper paste to a small quantity of glaze. The rest of
Dannon's directions are like my own.
I repeat a portion of Dannon's posting below:
Charles Moore
Sacramento, CA
> The simplest and easiest way to re-glaze pots that I have
> found: Buy a box of wallpaper paste. It comes as a powder,
> is available at paint stores, WalMart, home supplies, etc.
> It is very cheap, a dollar or so for about a one-pound box.
>
> Put the amount of glaze you think you will need - say a cup
> full - in a container. Add wallpaper paste in the correct
> proportion as stated on the box mixing directions. Let it
> sit for a few minutes. Then the glaze can be brushed on
> to whatever thickness desired. It will stay where you put
> it, and hardens to a VERY strong consistency. Difficult
> to remove once it is hard, so put it where you want it only.
reached at melpots@pclink.com.
kruzewski on wed 6 jun 01
Dear Gene,
You will probably hear this a load of times - but there is information on this on
the Archives. I only say this because everyone has a different method of
re-glazing, and it may be an idea to look through the archives to see what everyone
said last time - my way may not be best for you.
When I was first learning to make pots I had a friend who had been in pottery at
one time (because his parents were potters) and then stopped. He gave me some
useful equipment as well as advice - one bit was - if it doesn't work, fire it
again! I took his advice to a pottery I worked in for a year, and it often worked -
I hope it does for you.
The way I have always re-glazed is to hot glaze. Heat the pots up (in the kiln
possibly)- so they are just handlable, and dip in the glaze. The heat of the pot
should dry the glaze off before it runs off the pot. The glaze layer is very
fragile - this means it will wipe off the bits of the pot where you want to remove
it (like the foot) very easily, but it also means you need to handle these pots
very carefully.
You don't say why your glaze layer was thin - do you need to thicken up the glaze?
I know you can add things to do this, although I'm always puzzled why anyone would
want to do this - the best remedy to thin glaze is to wait for the solids to settle
and just take off some of the top layer of clear (ish) water. I alwys take off more
than I need to, give the glaze a good stir then check it's thickness, putting back
some of the water if needs be. If you are unsure dip a test pot and fire that with
your re-fires before you use the glaze again. It's always good practice to do a
test pot for every batch of glaze you mix, then you don't ruin a whole batch of
pots - or cause yourself extra work.
I assume you realise that the glaze doesn't stick to the already glaze fired pot
because the pot is no longer porous - it needs to be porous to suck the water from
the glaze into the pot - leaving a layer of glaze powder on the surface.
I hope that A) I this helps, and B) that I haven't insulted you by assuming you
know less than you do. If I have I'm sorry, I don't know you so I don't know what
knowledge you have.
You will be given lots more methods to re-glaze your pots, I'm sure, mine is a
little uncomfortable if you don't have asbestos hands!
Which ever method you choose - good luck!
Jacqui, North Wales
P.S. I'd imagine Borax is Borax, whatever your supplier, but you may find it's
cheeper in bulk from a pottery supplier. But I'm in UK so I may be wrong there.
Gail Dapogny on wed 6 jun 01
Besides all of the helpful things mentioned, also sand your pot lightly
with about #80 sandpaper. You won't see much if any difference in the
appearance of the places where you sand but it will very much help the
glaze to stick.
Another thing that can help is a light coating of spray starch. But I find
that the sanding is more important.
----Gail
>I have found that warming the pots before you re-dip them helps. The glaze
>dries quickly so that it doesn't have time to slide off the pot. You can use
>the borax from the grocery store as long as it is just borax an doesn't have
>any fragrance or other stuff put in it.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Arnolds Home Improvements"
>To:
>Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 5:26 PM
>Subject: Thin glaze
>
>
>> Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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