Earl Brunner on thu 7 dec 00
You can go multi level with this by shellacking, sponging, and then
shellacking again on some of the partially removed areas and then
sponging again.
Liz Willoughby wrote:
> Gary, I use shellac for resist on porc. pots, between leather hard
> and dry. If you make the design, and attach to the wheel, and use a
> clean wet soft sponge it is easy to get a pretty good well defined
> raised decoration. Food color can be put in the shellac to make it
> more visible. It is a looser design because the shellac will spread
> a bit if the pot is not dry enough.
>
> Meticulously loose Liz, in Eastern Central Ontario waiting for
> another snowstorm, hoping for a clear day so I can get my glazed pots
> to the kiln outside.
>
>
> Gary said:
>
>> A few months ago, someone here casually mention (in about 1
>> sentence) that the Chinese used to paint patterns using wax
>> resist on leather dry pots. You then wipe the pot with a
>> wet sponge or cloth to remove some clay not covered by the
>> wax. You then use a celadon glaze to bring out the patterns.
>>
>>
>> Anyone have any suggestions for resists (wax or otherwise) that
>> are easier to paint, more durable, and that don't need multiple
>> coats?
>>
>> Gary
>> ge@elfring.com
>>
>
> Liz Willoughby
> RR 1
> 2903 Shelter Valley Rd.
> Grafton, On.
> Canada
>
> e-mail lizwill@phc.igs.net
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
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>
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> melpots@pclink.com.
--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
mailto:bruec@anv.net
John Britt on thu 7 dec 00
Susan,
You may find the book "Water-coloring on Porcelain" by Arne Ase, a helpful
guide. It is also a testament to a master of this technique.
John Britt
Penland
Marni Turkel on thu 7 dec 00
Gary Elfring asked about wax resists for porcelain for sponging off for
relief areas.
I have used hot parrafin on bone dry procellaneous stoneware with good
success. The parrafin needs to be hot enough to sink in and really
penetrate the clay (but not so hot that it smokes). Also, it works best if
the piece is completely dry and not cold. I sponged it with a very wet
sponge. As I remember, I actually let it dry out and then sponged it some
more the next day. I wanted fairly deep texture. It was for a line of press
molded trivets I was working on.
Someone also suggest I might try lacquer, but I wasn't willing to work with
the fumes.
Marni
Marni Turkel
Stony Point Ceramic Design
2080 Llano Rd 1B
Santa Rosa, CA 95407
Pottery: 707-579-5567
Office: 707-579-9511
Fax: 707-579-1116
Gary Elfring on thu 7 dec 00
A few months ago, someone here casually mention (in about 1
sentence) that the Chinese used to paint patterns using wax
resist on leather dry pots. You then wipe the pot with a
wet sponge or cloth to remove some clay not covered by the
wax. You then use a celadon glaze to bring out the patterns.
Anyway, I tried the technique and it worked much better than
I ever expected. I was actually amazed by the relief you can
get in a few seconds.
However, I need a better wax resist than what I have. My
water soluble (when wet, but not when dry) wax resist doesn't
"paint" very well. It also really needs 2 coats to resist the
wet sponge. And fine detail seems to simply wash off.
Anyone have any suggestions for resists (wax or otherwise) that
are easier to paint, more durable, and that don't need multiple
coats?
Gary
ge@elfring.com
Hank Murrow on thu 7 dec 00
Gary wrote;
>A few months ago, someone here casually mention (in about 1
>sentence) that the Chinese used to paint patterns using wax
>resist on leather dry pots. You then wipe the pot with a
>wet sponge or cloth to remove some clay not covered by the
>wax. You then use a celadon glaze to bring out the patterns.
>
>Anyway, I tried the technique and it worked much better than
>I ever expected. I was actually amazed by the relief you can
>get in a few seconds.
>
>However, I need a better wax resist than what I have. My
>water soluble (when wet, but not when dry) wax resist doesn't
>"paint" very well. It also really needs 2 coats to resist the
>wet sponge. And fine detail seems to simply wash off.
>
>Anyone have any suggestions for resists (wax or otherwise) that
>are easier to paint, more durable, and that don't need multiple
>coats?
Yes gary;
Shellac work very well indeed. One coat will do it. I do this for the wood
fire on porcelain sometimes.
Hank in Eugene
Anita Rickenberg on thu 7 dec 00
Shellac works very well for creating a relief pattern. Paint the design =
using shellac, let dry, then wipe the area with a damp sponge. I =
imagine you'd be able to also get better detail with shellac than wax =
resist. The shellac burns out in the bisque firing.
Anita
John Lockett on thu 7 dec 00
On Thu 07 Dec, Gary Elfring wrote:
> A few months ago, someone here casually mention (in about 1
> sentence) that the Chinese used to paint patterns using wax
> resist on leather dry pots. You then wipe the pot with a
> wet sponge or cloth to remove some clay not covered by the
> wax. You then use a celadon glaze to bring out the patterns.
>
> Anyway, I tried the technique and it worked much better than
> I ever expected. I was actually amazed by the relief you can
> get in a few seconds.
>
> However, I need a better wax resist than what I have. My
> water soluble (when wet, but not when dry) wax resist doesn't
> "paint" very well. It also really needs 2 coats to resist the
> wet sponge. And fine detail seems to simply wash off.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions for resists (wax or otherwise) that
> are easier to paint, more durable, and that don't need multiple
> coats?
>
>
>
> Gary
> ge@elfring.com
I use an acrylic varnish (used to seal wood) for this Gary. Very
durable and only needs one coat. I colour it with food colouring
so that I can see where I've been. Hope this helps
John
--
John and Ann Lockett - Here in Birmingham UK at http://www.lockettpots.co.uk
Interested in Ceramics?
Visit http://www.ninedud.u-net.com/mpa
Interested in Dogs? Visit http://www.ninedud.u-net.com/bsc
Rick Brady on thu 7 dec 00
Gary,
Try orange shellac. Even thinned a little, one coat will hold up much better than most wax resists. Good Luck!
Rick Brady
Pleasanton, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Elfring [mailto:info@ELFRING.COM]
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 9:55 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Raised patterns on porcelain for celadons
A few months ago, someone here casually mention (in about 1
sentence) that the Chinese used to paint patterns using wax
resist on leather dry pots. You then wipe the pot with a
wet sponge or cloth to remove some clay not covered by the
wax. You then use a celadon glaze to bring out the patterns.
Anyway, I tried the technique and it worked much better than
I ever expected. I was actually amazed by the relief you can
get in a few seconds.
However, I need a better wax resist than what I have. My
water soluble (when wet, but not when dry) wax resist doesn't
"paint" very well. It also really needs 2 coats to resist the
wet sponge. And fine detail seems to simply wash off.
Anyone have any suggestions for resists (wax or otherwise) that
are easier to paint, more durable, and that don't need multiple
coats?
Gary
ge@elfring.com
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Susan Kosko on thu 7 dec 00
I was at a workshop given by Debbie Bedwell from Baltimore Clayworks earlier this
year, and she demonstrated this technique using orange shellac instead of wax
resist. She used orange so she could see it better on the porcelain. She uses
this on bone dry clay rather than leather hard.
Susan Kosko
New Durham, NH, USA
Gary Elfring wrote:
> A few months ago, someone here casually mention (in about 1
> sentence) that the Chinese used to paint patterns using wax
> resist on leather dry pots. You then wipe the pot with a
> wet sponge or cloth to remove some clay not covered by the
> wax. You then use a celadon glaze to bring out the patterns.
>
> Anyway, I tried the technique and it worked much better than
> I ever expected. I was actually amazed by the relief you can
> get in a few seconds.
>
> However, I need a better wax resist than what I have. My
> water soluble (when wet, but not when dry) wax resist doesn't
> "paint" very well. It also really needs 2 coats to resist the
> wet sponge. And fine detail seems to simply wash off.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions for resists (wax or otherwise) that
> are easier to paint, more durable, and that don't need multiple
> coats?
>
> Gary
> ge@elfring.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Pierre Brayford on thu 7 dec 00
In 1987 Arne Ase (Norway) demonstrated this technique at the
International Potters Festival (Aberystwyth).
He used a shellac concoction - probably shellac flakes
dissolved in alcohol.
Shellac is probably most easily available from somewhere
that deals in wood finishing products.
It produces a varnish type of finish and resists very well
Pierre
http://www.ukpotters.co.uk
> A few months ago, someone here casually mention (in about
1
> sentence) that the Chinese used to paint patterns using
wax
> resist on leather dry pots. You then wipe the pot with a
> wet sponge or cloth to remove some clay not covered by the
> wax. You then use a celadon glaze to bring out the
patterns.
>
> Anyway, I tried the technique and it worked much better
than
> I ever expected. I was actually amazed by the relief you
can
> get in a few seconds.
>
> However, I need a better wax resist than what I have. My
> water soluble (when wet, but not when dry) wax resist
doesn't
> "paint" very well. It also really needs 2 coats to resist
the
> wet sponge. And fine detail seems to simply wash off.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions for resists (wax or otherwise)
that
> are easier to paint, more durable, and that don't need
multiple
> coats?
>
>
>
> Gary
> ge@elfring.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________
__________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached
at melpots@pclink.com.
>
Liz Willoughby on thu 7 dec 00
Gary, I use shellac for resist on porc. pots, between leather hard
and dry. If you make the design, and attach to the wheel, and use a
clean wet soft sponge it is easy to get a pretty good well defined
raised decoration. Food color can be put in the shellac to make it
more visible. It is a looser design because the shellac will spread
a bit if the pot is not dry enough.
Meticulously loose Liz, in Eastern Central Ontario waiting for
another snowstorm, hoping for a clear day so I can get my glazed pots
to the kiln outside.
Gary said:
>A few months ago, someone here casually mention (in about 1
>sentence) that the Chinese used to paint patterns using wax
>resist on leather dry pots. You then wipe the pot with a
>wet sponge or cloth to remove some clay not covered by the
>wax. You then use a celadon glaze to bring out the patterns.
>
>
>Anyone have any suggestions for resists (wax or otherwise) that
>are easier to paint, more durable, and that don't need multiple
>coats?
>
>Gary
>ge@elfring.com
>
Liz Willoughby
RR 1
2903 Shelter Valley Rd.
Grafton, On.
Canada
e-mail lizwill@phc.igs.net
Jim Cullen on thu 7 dec 00
A better resist for this type of work is shellac. It has good painting
consistency and color to help visualize the pattern/design. Let it dry and
you can scrub your heart away.
KEEP CENTERED
Cullen
Naperville, Illinois
mail to: jcullen845@ameritech.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Elfring"
To:
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 11:54 AM
Subject: Raised patterns on porcelain for celadons
> A few months ago, someone here casually mention (in about 1
> sentence) that the Chinese used to paint patterns using wax
> resist on leather dry pots. You then wipe the pot with a
> wet sponge or cloth to remove some clay not covered by the
> wax. You then use a celadon glaze to bring out the patterns.
>
> Anyway, I tried the technique and it worked much better than
> I ever expected. I was actually amazed by the relief you can
> get in a few seconds.
>
> However, I need a better wax resist than what I have. My
> water soluble (when wet, but not when dry) wax resist doesn't
> "paint" very well. It also really needs 2 coats to resist the
> wet sponge. And fine detail seems to simply wash off.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions for resists (wax or otherwise) that
> are easier to paint, more durable, and that don't need multiple
> coats?
>
>
>
> Gary
> ge@elfring.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
WHew536674@CS.COM on thu 7 dec 00
Gary,
I have used shellac, that old fashioned brown varnish, on porcelain to get a
nice, fine line, water resist pattern. Will find it at any hardware store.
Only need one coat. Because it is brown, you can also see it better. Burns
off in bisque.
Joyce A
iandol on sat 9 dec 00
Dear Gary,
A solution of shellac in denatured alcohol (metho) is a good waterproof =
resist. Probably better known as French Polish.
Half fill a jar with the metho then add the shellac flakes until they =
come just above the surface. Put the lid on tight. Allow to stand for a =
couple of days then shake well. If it is not thick enough just add more =
flakes and repeat. Wash brush out in metho.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis
Jim Chandler on sat 9 dec 00
Along the lines of shellac as a resist, but not so smelly - acrylic
medium (I use Golden Artists Colors brand but any will do). Dries clear
and watertight. I did lowfire tiles this way having read the principle
in Giorgini's "Handmade Tile" book. I rubbed and sanded and gouged like
crazy, and came up with a look like fossils rising out of a matrix,
which was precisely what I wanted.
Laura Chandler
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