Jonathan Kaplan on wed 8 nov 00
We use a variety of fritted glazes in all of our work with the exception of
work at cone 9-10. The bulk of our wares are at cone 3-4, with a smaller
amount at cone 05. We use frits from Ferro and Fusion.
Depending on the applicatioin method, there are some monor differences in
specific gravity. ALot if done by feel and how the glaze sets on the piece.
All of our glazes that contain frit also have a significant quantity of
clay, so there is a nice slurry with quite good suspension and good surface
hardening characteristics.
In order to bring our glazes into proper consistency for dipping
applications, even though the glaze has the proper SG it may appear thick
and may not have the necesary set on the piece, we add a small amount, read
SMALL amount of Darvan 811. This thins the mixture out perfectly and of
course does not effect the SG. The glaze has a good feel, and sets well on
the ware.
Experiment first with this technique. Use a very small amount!! We use 1
tablespoon of Darvan 811 for every 10 gallons of glaze.
Hope this helps.
Jonathan
Jonathan Kaplan
Ceramic Design GroupLTD/Production Services
PO Box 775112
Steamboat Springs, CO 80477
(970) 879-9139 voice and fax
http://www.sni.net/ceramicdesign
UPS: 1280 13th St. Unit13
Steamboat Springs, CO 80487
patrick conrey on wed 8 nov 00
Amy,
Is the glaze matt?
Millie Carpenter on wed 8 nov 00
Amy,
what kind of clay are you using and are you using colored slip under the clear?
Millie in MD
amy parker wrote:
> Chris - try this cone 6 clear from Tony Hansen - it works great for me &
> I'm ever so happy that I got hooked on it instead of anything with GB!
>
> G1214W
> Wollastonite 10
> Frit 3134 25
> EPK 25
> Flint 25
> F4 feldspar 15
> ---
> 100
> Add 1 liter (or litre) of water per 1000 gms of dry mix per Tony. Add more
> to "taste" - I end up using about 6 - 6.5 liters per 5000 gms of glaze.
> Does not craze on Highwater P5 porcelain!! Only the tiniest bit milky on
> Lizella, but if you wet the bisque before dipping, it solves that problem.
> Does not settle badly. Works great over Velvet underglazes. Takes additions
> of Mason Stains quite well - try 10%.
>
> I sympathize with your milky glaze. I used the "GB-free" version of our
> cone 6 clear at our community studio & it was milkier than the old version
> ever was - and it was pretty bad!
>
> Amy
Chris Campbell on wed 8 nov 00
I have been trying to learn to use a fritted clear Cone 6 glaze for
the past 18 months and am still feeling very unsure of it. I can't seem to
read it. I have it so it does not settle. If I spray it on, the results are
pretty good but I can't find any way of dipping that doesn't end up way too
thick. Then it fires milky or crazes where it is thick - even if it's only a
little too thick.
Is there a rule of thumb here on the specific gravity? I am trying
desperately not to give up and tear open my last bag of Gerstley ... it would
be so nice to go back to my good old familiar friend. Here is the recipe:
Frit 3124 80
Kaolin 10
Flint 10
Bentonite 2
Epsom Salts
Thank you in advance - Chris Campbell - in North Carolina
WHC228@AOL.COM on wed 8 nov 00
Chris
I use fritted glazes all of the time. I used to stay away from fritted glazes
because of the settling problem too. I am using 1/2% of Veegum t in those
glazes without any of the settling problems. I suspect that you will be able
to get rid of the bentonite and the Epsom salts as well. The S.G. isn't too
critical, just get it where it is comfortable to use.
Good luck.
Bill Campbell
Craig Dunn Clark on wed 8 nov 00
Is your glaze mixing up to a nice creamy consistency? If it is then it is
probably floculating after the fact which is leading to the thickness and
inconsistency. A quick fix is to try and mix the glaze to a much thinner
consistency than you are currently mixing it to. I think that a good rule of
thumb is to mix the consistency of heavy cream, or a bit thinner if using
something that tends to floculate. Maybe mixing to the consistency at which
you spray will work for dipping also. The other quick thing to do is to use
a different frit... Otherwise you'll probably need to determine the PH of
both the claybody your using, the glaze, whether or not these change, and
what you can do to alter either the acidic or alkaline (which is what I
suspect) quality of your glaze. I hope this is helpful!!!!!!!!
Craig Dunn Clark
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Campbell
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Wednesday, November 08, 2000 9:25 AM
Subject: Help needed with Fritted Glaze
I have been trying to learn to use a fritted clear Cone 6 glaze for
the past 18 months and am still feeling very unsure of it. I can't seem to
read it. I have it so it does not settle. If I spray it on, the results are
pretty good but I can't find any way of dipping that doesn't end up way too
thick. Then it fires milky or crazes where it is thick - even if it's only a
little too thick.
Is there a rule of thumb here on the specific gravity? I am trying
desperately not to give up and tear open my last bag of Gerstley ... it
would
be so nice to go back to my good old familiar friend. Here is the recipe:
Frit 3124 80
Kaolin 10
Flint 10
Bentonite 2
Epsom Salts
Thank you in advance - Chris Campbell - in North Carolina
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
amy parker on wed 8 nov 00
Chris - try this cone 6 clear from Tony Hansen - it works great for me &
I'm ever so happy that I got hooked on it instead of anything with GB!
G1214W
Wollastonite 10
Frit 3134 25
EPK 25
Flint 25
F4 feldspar 15
---
100
Add 1 liter (or litre) of water per 1000 gms of dry mix per Tony. Add more
to "taste" - I end up using about 6 - 6.5 liters per 5000 gms of glaze.
Does not craze on Highwater P5 porcelain!! Only the tiniest bit milky on
Lizella, but if you wet the bisque before dipping, it solves that problem.
Does not settle badly. Works great over Velvet underglazes. Takes additions
of Mason Stains quite well - try 10%.
I sympathize with your milky glaze. I used the "GB-free" version of our
cone 6 clear at our community studio & it was milkier than the old version
ever was - and it was pretty bad!
Amy
Internet Quote of the day: "STRESSED spelled backwards is DESSERTS"
At 09:37 AM 11/8/00 EST, you wrote:
> I have been trying to learn to use a fritted clear Cone 6 glaze for
>the past 18 months and am still feeling very unsure of it. I can't seem to
>read it. I have it so it does not settle. If I spray it on, the results are
>pretty good but I can't find any way of dipping that doesn't end up way too
>thick. Then it fires milky or crazes where it is thick - even if it's only a
>little too thick.
>
> Is there a rule of thumb here on the specific gravity? I am trying
>desperately not to give up and tear open my last bag of Gerstley ... it would
>be so nice to go back to my good old familiar friend. Here is the recipe:
>
>Frit 3124 80
>Kaolin 10
>Flint 10
>Bentonite 2
>Epsom Salts
>
>Thank you in advance - Chris Campbell - in North Carolina
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Amy Parker
Lithonia, GA
will edwards on thu 9 nov 00
In regards to several posts on clears I will lend this one out for sampli=
ng
should anyone care to try it. I, as usual, would like comments made to me=
upon
your completion of any tests regarding anything I post since I test them =
in
various methods. (Traveling glazes and the haunts of boron blue free clea=
rs
and stablity issues). Test, test and re-test and then run a few test cups=
via
UPS to a toxicology lab for extractables if you are using metals/oxides w=
ith
known potential for chronic/acute hazards. If copper stays in rather well=
based on the findings you are on the right trail. If anyone knows of anot=
her
form of oxide known to soften a glaze as well as copper can, please advis=
e me
of this. Leachates each offer their own set of problems but copper seems =
to be
a good starting point! Glazes like these hopefully will soon be coming ac=
ross
this posting board soon due to the loss of GB used in so many glazes. I h=
ope
everyone knows that sharing their secrets is a worthy cause. (Smile) Ron =
where
are you? I need critiqued. I always assume my glazes as decorative till p=
roven
other-wise no matter what I think I know. GB now stands for Good-Bye.
Recipe: ^6 William's Clear
Whiting ( Calcium Carbonate ) 12.50 =
Epk Kaolin 12.50
Nepheline Syenite 20.00
Ferro Frit 3134 25.00
Flint ( Quartz Silica 30.00
I use this on B-mix mostly. Would like to know how well it works on other=
clays. Its glossy but not a high gloss. Smooth and clean. Should you use
stains or oxides with the above please inform me how well they work and w=
hat
method you used. Clay body types also should be included with your reply.=
William Edwards
Opelika Arts Center (Director)
Tallapoosa River Pottery (Owner)
____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=3D=
1
ferenc jakab on thu 9 nov 00
> what you can do to alter either the acidic or alkaline (which is what I
> suspect) quality of your glaze. I hope this is helpful!!!!!!!!
> Craig Dunn
Clark
> Frit 3124 80
> Kaolin 10
> Flint 10
> Bentonite 2
> Epsom Salts
Chris,
Frit 3124 or as it is now named, Ferro Frit 4124 is a boron frit that is
formulated to be close to neutral in its Ph, or so I am informed by Ferro,
Australia. I also use this Frit. I have had a problem with the glaze losing
its fluxing ability when it has been in the bucket for a few weeks. I was
wondering if the boron in the frit was able to dissolve over time, but I was
assured that ina ballanced frit like 4124 this would not happen. It does
happen with 4110 which is a high alkali frit. We think we have traced the
problem to the ZnO being progressively sieved out as I used the glaze.
Solution, ball mill the glaze to make the particles smaller. I use about 5%
Bentonite in my glaze and I found that the glaze "thinned out" with time.
The solution to this problem was to mix the Bentonite in hot water before
adding to the main glaze. Of course I make the main glaze a little thicker
to allow for the extra water.
Feri.
amy parker on thu 9 nov 00
No. BUT - if you think it down to milk consistency & apply extremely
carefully, you get sheen instead of shine. I used this on a clay body that
is fully vitrified at cone 6. Closest I have come to "matte" so far - matte
seems to contain billions of tiny bubbles and cover up colors.
Amy
At 08:08 PM 11/8/00 -0700, you wrote:
>Amy,
>Is the glaze matt?
>
Amy Parker
Lithonia, GA
Ababi Sharon on fri 10 nov 00
Hello Will.
Your glaze, as it looks, similar to Tony Hansen's 20/5,I believe it is
maturing in lower temperature. I take this opportunity to send you a
beautifull clear ^ 5 and ^6 I made it with the original frit,it is clear,
gloss and very easy numbers. I found it in the Ceramic Web(and hopefully
this letter pass our local system!
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&
Glaze Name: Clear (Huddleston)
cone: 5 - 6
color: transparent clear
surface:glossy, shiny
firing:Untested
date: 12/6/96
recipe:
50.00 Ferro Frit 3134
30.00 EPK
20.00 Silica
100.00 % Totals:
comments:
>From the ClayArt Glaze Recipe Database at SDSU.
If you test this glaze and find it useful
please consider resubmitting it to the GlazeBase database.
estimated thermal expansion: 70.79x10-7/°C
Unity Formula for Clear (Huddleston):
0.004 K2O 0.419 Al2O3 3.596 SiO2
0.313 Na2O 0.626 B2O3 0.004 TiO2
0.679 CaO 0.004 Fe2O3 8.6:1 Si:Al Ratio
0.004 MgO
Percentage Analysis for Clear (Huddleston):
59.81 % SiO2
11.83 % Al2O3
12.04 % B2O3
0.11 % K2O
5.37 % Na2O
10.54 % CaO
0.04 % MgO
0.18 % Fe2O3
0.09 % TiO2
Possible Health Hazards: Silica: free silica-wear a NIOSH approved dust mask
when handling dry material
It didn't craze but the colors were not quite as bright as others but it is
a nice glaze and subing Ferro frit 3124, I found a nice clear matt. I hope
these help. They're all I could find. Joyce Basking in the sun in the Mojave
joyce lee, jim lee
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&7
Good glazing and thank you The Mojave ClayArter!
Ababi Sharon
sharon@shoval.org.il
http://www.milkywayceramics.com/cgallery/asharon.htm
http://www.israelceramics.org/index.html
www.photoisland.com
ID: sharon@shoval.org.il
Password:clay
----- Original Message -----
From: "will edwards"
To:
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2000 8:21 AM
Subject: Re: Help needed with Fritted Glaze
In regards to several posts on clears I will lend this one out for sampling
should anyone care to try it. I, as usual, would like comments made to me
upon
your completion of any tests regarding anything I post since I test them in
various methods. (Traveling glazes and the haunts of boron blue free clears
and stablity issues). Test, test and re-test and then run a few test cups
via
UPS to a toxicology lab for extractables if you are using metals/oxides with
known potential for chronic/acute hazards. If copper stays in rather well
based on the findings you are on the right trail. If anyone knows of another
form of oxide known to soften a glaze as well as copper can, please advise
me
of this. Leachates each offer their own set of problems but copper seems to
be
a good starting point! Glazes like these hopefully will soon be coming
across
this posting board soon due to the loss of GB used in so many glazes. I hope
everyone knows that sharing their secrets is a worthy cause. (Smile) Ron
where
are you? I need critiqued. I always assume my glazes as decorative till
proven
other-wise no matter what I think I know. GB now stands for Good-Bye.
Recipe: ^6 William's Clear
Whiting ( Calcium Carbonate ) 12.50
Epk Kaolin 12.50
Nepheline Syenite 20.00
Ferro Frit 3134 25.00
Flint ( Quartz Silica 30.00
I use this on B-mix mostly. Would like to know how well it works on other
clays. Its glossy but not a high gloss. Smooth and clean. Should you use
stains or oxides with the above please inform me how well they work and what
method you used. Clay body types also should be included with your reply.
William Edwards
Opelika Arts Center (Director)
Tallapoosa River Pottery (Owner)
____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Ron Roy on tue 14 nov 00
I've been trying to make bubble free clear glazes for a few years now.
Thanks to some info in Epplers new book I finally got one. The trick is to
use a frit with very little boron - and stay away for the carbonates.
You are going to hear all kinds of advise on this and most of it will be
guessing.
Best to bisque higher (04) rather than lower (08,06) - getting glaze too
think in this area is a no no.
A good starting point would be a frit with 5% or less of boron, some
wolastonite and some clay.
RR
> I have been trying to learn to use a fritted clear Cone 6 glaze for
>the past 18 months and am still feeling very unsure of it. I can't seem to
>read it. I have it so it does not settle. If I spray it on, the results are
>pretty good but I can't find any way of dipping that doesn't end up way too
>thick. Then it fires milky or crazes where it is thick - even if it's only a
>little too thick.
>
> Is there a rule of thumb here on the specific gravity? I am trying
>desperately not to give up and tear open my last bag of Gerstley ... it would
>be so nice to go back to my good old familiar friend. Here is the recipe:
>
>Frit 3124 80
>Kaolin 10
>Flint 10
>Bentonite 2
>Epsom Salts
>
>Thank you in advance - Chris Campbell - in North Carolina
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough
Ontario, Canada
M1G 3N8
Evenings 416-439-2621
Fax 416-438-7849
Ron Roy on thu 16 nov 00
Hi Will,
Too much boron and carbonate for a clear - whenyou try it on a stoneware
clay you will see - maybe some blue blush as as well. I can only guess at
stability so I'll be quite. Add 5% copper carb and send it to a lab and
tell us what happened.
RR
>In regards to several posts on clears I will lend this one out for sampling
>should anyone care to try it. I, as usual, would like comments made to me upon
>your completion of any tests regarding anything I post since I test them in
>various methods. (Traveling glazes and the haunts of boron blue free clears
>and stablity issues). Test, test and re-test and then run a few test cups via
>UPS to a toxicology lab for extractables if you are using metals/oxides with
>known potential for chronic/acute hazards. If copper stays in rather well
>based on the findings you are on the right trail. If anyone knows of another
>form of oxide known to soften a glaze as well as copper can, please advise me
>of this. Leachates each offer their own set of problems but copper seems to be
>a good starting point! Glazes like these hopefully will soon be coming across
>this posting board soon due to the loss of GB used in so many glazes. I hope
>everyone knows that sharing their secrets is a worthy cause. (Smile) Ron where
>are you? I need critiqued. I always assume my glazes as decorative till proven
>other-wise no matter what I think I know. GB now stands for Good-Bye.
>
> Recipe: ^6 William's Clear
>Whiting ( Calcium Carbonate ) 12.50
>Epk Kaolin 12.50
>Nepheline Syenite 20.00
>Ferro Frit 3134 25.00
>Flint ( Quartz Silica 30.00
>
>I use this on B-mix mostly. Would like to know how well it works on other
>clays. Its glossy but not a high gloss. Smooth and clean. Should you use
>stains or oxides with the above please inform me how well they work and what
>method you used. Clay body types also should be included with your reply.
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough
Ontario, Canada
M1G 3N8
Evenings 416-439-2621
Fax 416-438-7849
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