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how to get smooth slabs

updated thu 14 sep 00

 

KLeSueur@AOL.COM on wed 6 sep 00


In a message dated 9/6/00 3:20:46 PM, jlutz@AZLINK.COM writes:

<< I really hate the texture the canvas from the slab roller leaves on slabs.
I've tried sponging and scraping but that also leave marks.
I bought the Slab Matts at NCECA but that doesn't solve the problem. >>

Try using a wallpaper blade or a rubber floor squeege. Both are wide enough
to do the job.

Kathi LeSueur

Anji Henderson on wed 6 sep 00


I am a little confused but I will take a crack at this
one.... My confusion is with the clay being "so dry
that you can't manipulate it without it cracking."

If this means that you need it hard leather hard to
work with it, may I suggest rolling them out of the
bag wet and letting them set up??

My method for larger slabs w/o marks is to take the
amount of clay that is needed.. Wedge it up.. Then I
make a big roll the with of my roller.. Then I pound
the heck out of it in a down the roller sort of motion
on a cloth (I don't do this on the roller table)..
Then I move the thick bumpy slab to the roller, and
roll it out (of course with a cloth above and below
it)..

I have a window washer squeegee that I then squeegee
the marks from the cloth off.. It's about ohhh 17 - 20
inches wide, and they come in all sorts of sizes..

If I am working in soft slabs I get to work then.. If
I am working in leather hard or above clay I let it
set on a board until it is as dry as I need it for the
project..

I have also seen in something printed that you can put
fat coils kind of overlapping each other horizontally
to the roller on the slab roller.. Then roll them to
make larger then one cut off the block of clay slabs..


I hope this helps...

Anji

--- Jean Lutz wrote:
> I really hate the texture the canvas from the slab
> roller leaves on slabs.
> I've tried sponging and scraping but that also leave
> marks.
> I bought the Slab Matts at NCECA but that doesn't
> solve the problem. The
> clay has to be so dry that you can't manipulate it
> without it cracking.
> And because the clay is so dry I think that's why
> the seams show when you
> have to join 2 pieces of clay to get a piece bigger
> than that which is cut
> from the bag of clay. Unfortunately these lines
> don't always show up until
> the glaze firing. They appear as lines or cracks.
> And often when removing the matt from the slab it
> pulls up a fuzzy surface.
> I've tried putting the clay between additional
> pieces of fabric such as
> pillowcase fabric but it's impossible to keep the
> little wrinkles out of it.
> It doesn't seem to matter how often I put the slab
> through the "wringer" I
> continue to have the same problems.
> My current method is to place the amount of clay I
> think I need the for the
> size slab I want onto the matt. Roll it once. Then
> fold that piece in half
> and turn it 45 deg. and roll it through again. I do
> that several times.
> But because the clay is so dry the layers don't
> really blend into on
> another and I get obvious overlap lines. Even in the
> center where the ends
> aren't overlapped there are seperations which show
> up after firing.
> HELP! how do I get smooth slabs.
> Jean Lutz
> Scottsdale AZ
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.


=====
Good art does not have to match your sofa!!

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Susan Fox Hirschmann on wed 6 sep 00


You seem to be rolling those slabs a bit much!!!! One run thru the slab
roller and with the metal rib/templates i devised, you can smooth out the
impressions made from the canvas.
I went to a sheet metal shop and for a few bucks had them make me a straight
bottomed template of a piece of steel about the width of my slab roller,
with a hole in the middle for hanging on the wall on a nail. I actually had
them make a few of them for me --- some with rounded tops, others with angled
tops, You probably could buy these ribs at Bailey, or whereever ceramic
supply, but not this large. You will need to file them yourself, probaby,
with a metal file and then some heavy duty sand paper, as i did with mine to
"soften" the rough edges. anyway, they work GREAT! and get out all those
canvas lines we hate.
Hope that helps.

susan
annandale, va

Rod, Marian, and Holly Morris on wed 6 sep 00


What works fairly well for me is to put a layer of smoother cloth like
satin, fine percale, even pellon between the canvas and the clay. No need to
have extra dry clay, but the synthetic fabrics like pellon will begin to
stick to the clay when they get wet.

Marian in Michigan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean Lutz"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 11:19 AM
Subject: How to get smooth slabs


> I really hate the texture the canvas from the slab roller leaves on slabs.
> I've tried sponging and scraping but that also leave marks.
> I bought the Slab Matts at NCECA but that doesn't solve the problem. The
> clay has to be so dry that you can't manipulate it without it cracking.
> And because the clay is so dry I think that's why the seams show when you
> have to join 2 pieces of clay to get a piece bigger than that which is cut
> from the bag of clay. Unfortunately these lines don't always show up until
> the glaze firing. They appear as lines or cracks.
> And often when removing the matt from the slab it pulls up a fuzzy
surface.
> I've tried putting the clay between additional pieces of fabric such as
> pillowcase fabric but it's impossible to keep the little wrinkles out of
it.
> It doesn't seem to matter how often I put the slab through the "wringer" I
> continue to have the same problems.
> My current method is to place the amount of clay I think I need the for
the
> size slab I want onto the matt. Roll it once. Then fold that piece in half
> and turn it 45 deg. and roll it through again. I do that several times.
> But because the clay is so dry the layers don't really blend into on
> another and I get obvious overlap lines. Even in the center where the ends
> aren't overlapped there are seperations which show up after firing.
> HELP! how do I get smooth slabs.
> Jean Lutz
> Scottsdale AZ
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>

Paul Lewing on wed 6 sep 00


Jean, instead of pillow fabric, try Pellon. It's a non-woven fabric
used as interfacing to stiffen collars and cuffs of shirts. Comes in
three weights. Get the heavy weight, use if just like your canvas. It
will leave just a bit of roughness to the slabs, but no pattern of
texture. I've been using the same pieces of Pellon to make slabs on for
over 20 years.
Paul Lewing, Seattle

Wade Blocker on wed 6 sep 00


Dear Jean,
I do a lot of slab work, and am puzzled by your problems. You emphasize
that your clay is very dry. Perhaps that is the source of your troubles. I
use fairly soft clay, roll out the slabs on a pillowcase, then turn the
sheet with the clay on it so that the slab faces another direction, cover
it with another sheet or pillowcase then roll over the slab again to erase
any marks left by the slab roller.. Occasionally I dampen the pillow
case.However, most of the time the clay is damp enough that I have to
change the sheeting so that the clay does not adhere. . If I have " to
patch"a slab I will use a damp sponge to erase any obvious seam, before
rolling the slab. You mention the creases you get from the sheeting. Before
using the slab roller tug the sheeting to make sure it is flat, using a
slightly dampened sheet helps. I hope you can make heads and tails of
this. If you need a dry slab, just lift the sheeting with the clay, and
set it on a board to dry a bit.I mostly use "pellon" to roll slabs on. Mia
in hot ABQ

Jean Lutz on wed 6 sep 00


I really hate the texture the canvas from the slab roller leaves on slabs.
I've tried sponging and scraping but that also leave marks.
I bought the Slab Matts at NCECA but that doesn't solve the problem. The
clay has to be so dry that you can't manipulate it without it cracking.
And because the clay is so dry I think that's why the seams show when you
have to join 2 pieces of clay to get a piece bigger than that which is cut
from the bag of clay. Unfortunately these lines don't always show up until
the glaze firing. They appear as lines or cracks.
And often when removing the matt from the slab it pulls up a fuzzy surface.
I've tried putting the clay between additional pieces of fabric such as
pillowcase fabric but it's impossible to keep the little wrinkles out of it.
It doesn't seem to matter how often I put the slab through the "wringer" I
continue to have the same problems.
My current method is to place the amount of clay I think I need the for the
size slab I want onto the matt. Roll it once. Then fold that piece in half
and turn it 45 deg. and roll it through again. I do that several times.
But because the clay is so dry the layers don't really blend into on
another and I get obvious overlap lines. Even in the center where the ends
aren't overlapped there are seperations which show up after firing.
HELP! how do I get smooth slabs.
Jean Lutz
Scottsdale AZ

Lorraine Pierce on thu 7 sep 00


Have you tried dressmakers''Pellon" between the slab and the canvases?It
comes in a heavy enough weight to prevent wrinkles, and eliminates the
canvas texture. I do not understand why your clay must be so dry. Do you
know how to get it the consistency you would like? There is a lot of info in
the archives about altering clay consistency...or post me off list if you
need to. Lori in New Port Richey Fl.

JODO96@AOL.COM on thu 7 sep 00


Jean

I've been using the Slab Mat without much of a problem.
I use 2 mat's, place the clay between, roll out
remove the top mat, smooth slightly with a wide scrapper (used to smooth
cement).
Then remove the slab by placing a section of an old T-shirt over the clay,
folding
the edge over the slab and between the slab mat, so as to form a handle
without distorting the clay very much. I then lift and place the slab over my
form or on to a board using the T-shirt. I leave the T-shirt under the slab
and stretch it so as to remove and crinkles(sp) re-smooth if necessary with
the scrapper. I don't let the clay set up on the slab mat because it becomes
more difficult to remove. I rotate the mat after 3-4 uses so as to allow it
to dry out some. I've not had any problems using this method.
Hope this is helpful

Dorothy Weber
Manakin-Sabot, Va.

Earl Brunner on thu 7 sep 00


Another way to get smooth slabs is to use what is either a
paint edging tool or a wallpaper application tool. Not sure
which, maybe both or either. Essentially it is a long flat,
almost, but not quite sharp blade that when painting you can
mask corners or edges with, or is used to smooth wallpaper
onto the wall. In any case they come in a variety of
lengths, are inexpensive and easy to use. You want to get
one that is as wide as the slab you will make so that there
is no "blend line" from multiple passes.

JODO96@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Jean
>
> I've been using the Slab Mat without much of a problem.
> I use 2 mat's, place the clay between, roll out
> remove the top mat, smooth slightly with a wide scrapper (used to smooth
> cement).
> Then remove the slab by placing a section of an old T-shirt over the clay,
> folding
> the edge over the slab and between the slab mat, so as to form a handle
> without distorting the clay very much. I then lift and place the slab over my
> form or on to a board using the T-shirt. I leave the T-shirt under the slab
> and stretch it so as to remove and crinkles(sp) re-smooth if necessary with
> the scrapper. I don't let the clay set up on the slab mat because it becomes
> more difficult to remove. I rotate the mat after 3-4 uses so as to allow it
> to dry out some. I've not had any problems using this method.
> Hope this is helpful
>
> Dorothy Weber
> Manakin-Sabot, Va.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.

--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
mailto:bruec@anv.net

Earl Brunner on thu 7 sep 00


Jean,
Slab Mats do work great, from your description I wonder if
you are not over working and getting your mat too wet. At
NCECA the lady in the booth emphasized that you might need
several mats to work back and forth from if you are making
numerous slabs at once or if the mats aren't allowed to dry
out between use. She felt that this drying period wouldn't
need to be very long, but several factors do enter in here.
On the desert here, where I live I could probably make slabs
as fast as I could make them, there is little humidity.
Obviously in more humid areas it may take longer and you may
need more mats.

JODO96@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Jean
>
> I've been using the Slab Mat without much of a problem.
> I use 2 mat's, place the clay between, roll out
> remove the top mat, smooth slightly with a wide scrapper (used to smooth
> cement).
> Then remove the slab by placing a section of an old T-shirt over the clay,
> folding
> the edge over the slab and between the slab mat, so as to form a handle
> without distorting the clay very much. I then lift and place the slab over my
> form or on to a board using the T-shirt. I leave the T-shirt under the slab
> and stretch it so as to remove and crinkles(sp) re-smooth if necessary with
> the scrapper. I don't let the clay set up on the slab mat because it becomes
> more difficult to remove. I rotate the mat after 3-4 uses so as to allow it
> to dry out some. I've not had any problems using this method.
> Hope this is helpful
>
> Dorothy Weber
> Manakin-Sabot, Va.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.

--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
mailto:bruec@anv.net

Charles on thu 7 sep 00


I rarely handbuild, but when I want a smooth slab, I roll the thing out on
canvas, then before moving it, hit it lightly with the spray bottle and a
rubber rib. Then I flip the slab onto a newspaper covered board and do the
other side. Easy stuff, no hassles and no special materials.

-Charles

pjh_mae on thu 7 sep 00


Jean: SlabMat is my product. I'd be pleased to help you trouble shoot
your problem with the mats. Over the past few months, I've spoken with
a few potters, each with different clays, different slab rollers and
unusual techniques who have found their own particular problems. Not
only am I pleased to help you, but it will help me with future calls I
may receive. Please give me a call on our toll free line:
1-888-391-1615

Thanks.
Pam Herring
Herring Designs, LC
Makers of SlabMat
1-888-391-1615
(352)378-5558
www.HerringDesigns.com
pjh.mae@aya.yale.edu

bschwab on thu 7 sep 00


I use printers blankets to roll slabs out between, using slab roller.

After final pass through rollers I peel top blanket off and lay a piece of
newspaper over the freshly rolled slab, smoothing newspaper over entire
surface of slab......the paper will adhere to clay. I place top blanket back
over newspaper/slab and while holding both top and bottom blanket with my
hands I lift entire package onto my work table. While transfering from slab
roller table to work table I manipulate the package so side with newspaper
on lands on the bottom. I can then peel top blanket off top of slab and
slide bottom blanket out between table and newspaper.

Printers blankets leave little to no marking on slab - at least the ones I
am using. Another nice thing about using the newspaper is that if I am
using a hump mold and I apply a little more pressure than usual when
cutting around outline of piece, with needle tool, it sort of scores the
newspaper which has become damp from the clay. Scoring the newspaper allows
it to be pulled free from surrounding slab. When I lift it to transfer onto
hump the newspaper acts as a support to the clay and helps to minimize
distortion of the piece which can ultimately result in warpage when fired.
After piece is in place over hump i then carefully peel newspaper off of
clay and finish as usual. I have had a very good rate of success this way.
When I bisque, I stand platters and other flats on end resting against
insides of kiln. If I fire a load of flats and upright vessels, I put the
upright items on bottom shelf then next shelf is where I begin stacking flat
items around the insides.

Hope this makes sense......that was hard to describe..LOL

I got my printers blankets free of charge from local printers
office......they were mine for the asking.

Billie Schwab
Venus Pottery & Basket Works

SusanRaku@AOL.COM on thu 7 sep 00


Just take a regular wooden rolling pin and go over the slab.

Susan

SusanRaku@AOL.COM on thu 7 sep 00


In a message dated 09/07/2000 7:26:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
vual70@YAHOO.COM writes:

<< My method for larger slabs w/o marks is to take the
amount of clay that is needed.. Wedge it up.. Then I
make a big roll the with of my roller.. Then I pound
the heck out of it in a down the roller sort of motion
on a cloth (I don't do this on the roller table)..
Then I move the thick bumpy slab to the roller, and
roll it out (of course with a cloth above and below
it).. >>

So much work! I make slabs of all sizes routinely. I have never wedged the
clay. I usually use prepackaged 25 lb. blocks of Standard 112. I simply cut
a slice and place it in the middle of the canvas, cover it, and run in
through the slab roller. I use a slice that is about an inch and a half
thick. If I want a bigger slab I put two slices side by side. I have put
four slices in a square when needed. I do overlap the edges a bit and push
them down with my palm.
For my work I start out with my slab roller sit at one inch and lower it
slowly, bringing the clay back and forth through the roller, down to one
fourth and inch.

To remove the texture I go over the slab with a wooden rolling pin.

All of this takes only minutes.

Susan

Susan

DeBorah Goletz on thu 7 sep 00


Jean,
Roll out your slabs once or twice (not many times) then swipe with a
squeegee (used to clean windows). If the clay is dry and doesn't become
smooth with one pass, mist it lightly with water and squeegee again.
Best,
DeBorah Goletz

----------

Mickey Tynan Weitsen on thu 7 sep 00


This is a little late - but I wanted to mention that you can purchase the
very long squeegees at Home Depot( probably Lowe's too). They're usually in
the aisle next to garden tools (shovels, rakes) and are displayed with the
window cleaning implements. While you're there, check out the
paint/wallpaper aisle. They'll have a metal edged tool for smoothing and
cutting wallpaper, as well as a long tool used for trim painting work (so
you don't have to put down all that masking tape).
Hope this helps -
Good luck -
Mickey

Anji Henderson on fri 8 sep 00


Oops I guess I forgot the part where I haven't had
brand spanking new clay in a long time ; )I have
friends that _Will Not_ use reworked clay, so.........
It's a good deal ; )

Anji

--- SusanRaku@AOL.COM wrote:
> In a message dated 09/07/2000 7:26:27 AM Eastern
> Daylight Time,
> vual70@YAHOO.COM writes:
>
> << My method for larger slabs w/o marks is to take
> the
> amount of clay that is needed.. Wedge it up.. Then
> I
> make a big roll the with of my roller.. Then I
> pound
> the heck out of it in a down the roller sort of
> motion
> on a cloth (I don't do this on the roller table)..
> Then I move the thick bumpy slab to the roller, and
> roll it out (of course with a cloth above and below
> it).. >>
>
> So much work! I make slabs of all sizes routinely.
> I have never wedged the
> clay. I usually use prepackaged 25 lb. blocks of
> Standard 112. I simply cut
> a slice and place it in the middle of the canvas,
> cover it, and run in
> through the slab roller. I use a slice that is
> about an inch and a half
> thick. If I want a bigger slab I put two slices
> side by side. I have put
> four slices in a square when needed. I do overlap
> the edges a bit and push
> them down with my palm.
> For my work I start out with my slab roller sit at
> one inch and lower it
> slowly, bringing the clay back and forth through the
> roller, down to one
> fourth and inch.
>
> To remove the texture I go over the slab with a
> wooden rolling pin.
>
> All of this takes only minutes.
>
> Susan
>
> Susan
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.


=====
Good art does not have to match your sofa!!

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/

SusanRaku@AOL.COM on fri 8 sep 00


In a message dated 09/08/2000 10:27:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Susan Raku
writes:

<< Subj: Re: How to get smooth slabs
Date: 09/08/2000 10:27:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time
From: Susan Raku
To: Ovual70@YAHOO.COM


<< > For my work I start out with my slab roller sit at
> one inch and lower it
> slowly, bringing the clay back and forth through the
> roller, down to one
> fourth and inch.
> >>

corrections
For my work I start out with my slab roller set at one inch and lower it
slowly, bringing the clay back and forth through the roller, down to one
fourth of an inch.

Also, a few tricks.

Never touch the slab. Always pull the cloth from the slab and not nice
versa.
I pick up the canvas when the clay is still attached to one side and flip it
over onto a sheet. Then I only touch the sheet to move the slab.

I am giving a lecture today to the fine art students at the University of
Kentucky. My topic will be working with slabs. It is my first such outing
and I am terrified.
Feel free to take a look at my clothing series which is all done from slabs.
You can see it at http://www.silverhawk.com/ex99/menu.html.

If you have any further questions feel free to ask.

Susan
>>

Christine ROSE on fri 8 sep 00


In our high school, we have an ancient slab roller with a sad piece of =
canvas. To solve the textural problem, I cut up a sheet into pieces just =
a bit smaller than the canvas. The sheets go on both sides of the clay. =
Only drawback is that if you don't hold the sheets, the slab is wrinkled. =
Over 150 stuednts use the slab roller and it has been successful for them =
!

Christine Rose
Glenedale High School

SusanRaku@AOL.COM on sat 9 sep 00


Hi Anne. I do lots of other types of work but it is not shown on that web
site. You probably clicked onto the other artists that are also on that
website.
We are grouped on there.

I am glad you got to see my clothing pieces.

Warm regards,
Susan

Anne Ruthven on sat 9 sep 00


Susan,

I loved your "Summer Shorts" - thought they were wonderful and clicked
through to your website eagerly looking for more of the slab clothing.
And was confounded by the non-slab pieces. Are these others yours? Am I
clicking wrong?

Help. Thanks.

Anne Ruthven
Bandera Texas


SusanRaku@AOL.COM wrote:
>

> Feel free to take a look at my clothing series which is all done from slabs.
> You can see it at http://www.silverhawk.com/ex99/menu.html.
>
> If you have any further questions feel free to ask.
>
> Susan
> >>

John Palmquist on wed 13 sep 00


Hi Susan,
I went to the website and couldn't figure out where you were in it.
Help! I was looking under your name Susan Raku. Is this correct? Thanks.
Diane
-----Original Message-----
From: SusanRaku@AOL.COM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Friday, September 08, 2000 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: How to get smooth slabs


>In a message dated 09/08/2000 10:27:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Susan Raku
>writes:
>
><< Subj: Re: How to get smooth slabs
> Date: 09/08/2000 10:27:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time
> From: Susan Raku
> To: Ovual70@YAHOO.COM
>
>
> << > For my work I start out with my slab roller sit at
> > one inch and lower it
> > slowly, bringing the clay back and forth through the
> > roller, down to one
> > fourth and inch.
> > >>
>
> corrections
> For my work I start out with my slab roller set at one inch and lower it
>slowly, bringing the clay back and forth through the roller, down to one
>fourth of an inch.
>
> Also, a few tricks.
>
> Never touch the slab. Always pull the cloth from the slab and not nice
>versa.
> I pick up the canvas when the clay is still attached to one side and flip
it
>over onto a sheet. Then I only touch the sheet to move the slab.
>
> I am giving a lecture today to the fine art students at the University of
>Kentucky. My topic will be working with slabs. It is my first such outing
>and I am terrified.
> Feel free to take a look at my clothing series which is all done from
slabs.
> You can see it at http://www.silverhawk.com/ex99/menu.html.
>
> If you have any further questions feel free to ask.
>
> Susan
> >>
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>

SusanRaku@AOL.COM on wed 13 sep 00


Diane, look under Susan Goldstein.

Susan