gracieallen on sun 20 aug 00
Hi, folks,
A friend of mine was asking me about the technique
called fuming.. There is a workshop being given by Biz
Littell in November, but we wanted to learn about it
before we go.. Any suggestions or websites to check
out that any of you might know?? Thanks for any
direction.. Carolyn in the might cool Carolinas
James L Bowen on fri 25 aug 00
What Biz teaches is vapor glazing on stoneware and raku with stannous =
chloride to create an iridescence.
You will learn this and much more including many practical tips for =
making pots AND you will be exposed to a really nice guy with terrific =
creative energy and ideas.
You can see an older piece of his work with a brief article in RAKU A =
Review of Contemporary Work, by Tim Andrews. Page 85 and 86
While your looking in this book see also page71 & 72 for work by Bob =
Smith another important Colorado rakuist who uses ferric chloride and by =
the way also does a fine workshop well worth the time and money.
The one day workshop I attended several years ago at Clayfest in Manitou =
Springs, CO was well worth the trip and I would do it again. Hope he =
comes to UVAPAPA because he works just down the road in Alamoosa
Maggie Woodhead on wed 7 feb 01
Hello and Kia Ora Clayarters,
We have just had our
fourth firing where we have aimed to get those lovely copper red colours.
Some are just what we want but among them are some of the livery muddy looking
shades even on the same pots - bottom is a beautiful ruby red and the top a hazy
smoky look.
Since the pots are all fired together could there be a sort of fuming which
could affect the copper reds and turn the colour into this unattractive mutation
of what I am looking for.
I have one glaze with 5% manganese dioxide that is under suspicion that was
left out this last firing and a couple of plates with saturated iron in the
glaze were all the glazes I am wondering about.
Do I have to fire copper reds by themselves to be sure there is not some
interference form the other glaze materials.
Puzzled ----Best Wishes Maggie----
maggiew@clear.net.nz
David Hendley on thu 8 feb 01
Well Maggie, there are so many variables and possibilities
when firing copper reds that I would not completely rule
out anything, but I surely don't think that your manganese
and iron glazed pieces fumed and ruined the copper red glaze.
I regularly fire with copper reds mixed in with all my other
glazes.
It's common for the same pot to have vast variations in color
with copper reds. I chalk it up to uneven reduction, flame
path travel, or cooling rate.
--
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
hendley@tyler.net
http://www.farmpots.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: Maggie Woodhead
To:
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 11:17 PM
Subject: Fuming
| Hello and Kia Ora Clayarters,
| We have just had
our
| fourth firing where we have aimed to get those lovely copper red colours.
| Some are just what we want but among them are some of the livery muddy
looking
| shades even on the same pots - bottom is a beautiful ruby red and the top
a hazy
| smoky look.
| Since the pots are all fired together could there be a sort of fuming
which
| could affect the copper reds and turn the colour into this unattractive
mutation
| of what I am looking for.
| I have one glaze with 5% manganese dioxide that is under suspicion that
was
| left out this last firing and a couple of plates with saturated iron in
the
| glaze were all the glazes I am wondering about.
| Do I have to fire copper reds by themselves to be sure there is not
some
| interference form the other glaze materials.
|
| Puzzled ----Best Wishes Maggie----
| maggiew@clear.net.nz
|
|
Jeffrey on thu 8 feb 01
Hi
It sounds like any of those things you listed could cause problems in
getting a copper red, although, I don't think fuming from other glazes
would affect the copper reds a lot except in areas where the two glazes are
very close to each other. I work in a school studio firing everyones work,
and what I've found is that the copper reds will turn out in a firing
regardless of what other glazes you have in there. The most common reason
for the reds coming out a bright ruby red near the base of the pot in my
experience is an uneven application. Try spraying glaze on the top holf a
little heavier than the bottom so when it run in the firing, the
appliocation actually comes closer to being even, and you may get more even
colors. I've also found that, because our kilns are old, we get more
reduction near the top of our kilns and the reds turn out best near the
top. I hope this helps a little, and good luck.
-jeff
Tom's E-mail on sun 15 sep 02
Some years ago, I saw some fuming done at the LaLoba Ranch. Don't recall =
the details but I would like to know more about the technique and where =
to buy the salts/metals used. I looked in the archives and did not see =
any headings related to this topic. I would appreciate any help anyone =
might offer. Thanks in advance.
Tom Sawyer
tsawyer@cfl.rr.com=20
Leland G. Hall on mon 16 sep 02
On Sun, 15 Sep 2002 20:37:06 -0700, Tom's E-mail wrote:
>Some years ago, I saw some fuming done at the LaLoba Ranch. Don't recall
the details but I would like to know more about the technique and where to
buy the salts/metals used. I looked in the archives and did not see any
headings related to this topic. I would appreciate any help anyone might
offer. Thanks in advance.
>
>Tom Sawyer
>tsawyer@cfl.rr.com
>Hi Tom. I buy Stannous Chloride, Silver Nitrate and the like from US
Pigment. In Chicago I think. Lots of metals, salts, raw materials and
such for pottery. Good website, easy to order. Have fun!
Leland Hall
Before The Wheel Enterprises
La Pine, Oregon, USA
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Ursy Potter on mon 16 sep 02
Hi,
I'vr been fuming with tin chloride crystals for years. I used to do it in my
reduction kiln but switched to the electric kiln for gold luster third
firing. The gold, when fumed becomes very alive. It is all very dangerous to
inhale or get on one's skin so great precautions must be made. I used to buy
the tin chloride crystals from Standard Ceramic but due to the toxic nature
of the crystals they stopped carrying them.
I would appreciate learning from anyone with knowledge as to where one can
buy them now.
Thanks,
Ursy Potter
Joyce Lee on mon 16 sep 02
Hey Tom.......
I ordered all the salts etc that Kurt
mentioned in his article in CM. I've
played with the fuming process some
since then and plan to return to it
in the Fall. For me, finding where and=20
how much to order was the big
hurdle. Since Kurt is the resident
specialist in fuming, I'll wait for him to
answer. If he doesn't respond, contact me off list and I'll get the =
information together.
Joyce
In the Mojave disbelieving of dentistry
in the 2000s ..... spent 3 hours in the
dentist's office and he never once
looked in my mouth ..... all was done
via computers, pulsing devices etc.
Of course, this was all preparation for
some other work I need, but still.....
incredible....... not at all sure to which
decade I belong ...... as in the sometimes
heard, "I'm a child of the 60s" .... or "You're stuck in the 70s" .... =
have
no idea which one I could claim as=20
being "My Decade......"
Cantello Studios on mon 16 sep 02
http://www.lalobaranch.com/page-blm.html
I am also going to do testing on this process.
My fantasy is to fume white crackle raku.
Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
The address above will get you to Biz's web page. I called and ordered his
handbook. It was $35.00 including shipping.
I think the glaze base you attempt to fume may be the key to fuming. If it
is anything like fuming glass it may need to be a high soda base and one
that melts low too. Some thoughts???
Chris
www.cantellostudios.com
Brooks Ratledge on tue 17 sep 02
Tom Turner fumed salt pieces in the 70's. I've fumed raku, cone 6 ox., cone
10 red. To fume raku, I dissolved the stannous chloride in water and
sprayed it on the pot just after it came out of the kiln and before going
into the combustible. I also used the same technique with iron chloride
which gave an orange finish to the pieces. The chloride/water mist is
dangerous as are the fumes. If you try it, be careful. Patricia Harden
-----------------------------------------------------
Click here for Free Video!!
http://www.gohip.com/free_video/
-----Original Message-----
From: Cantello Studios
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Monday, September 16, 2002 10:51 PM
Subject: Re: Fuming
>http://www.lalobaranch.com/page-blm.html
>
>I am also going to do testing on this process.
>My fantasy is to fume white crackle raku.
>Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
>The address above will get you to Biz's web page. I called and ordered his
>handbook. It was $35.00 including shipping.
>I think the glaze base you attempt to fume may be the key to fuming. If it
>is anything like fuming glass it may need to be a high soda base and one
>that melts low too. Some thoughts???
>
>Chris
>
>www.cantellostudios.com
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Joyce Lee on tue 17 sep 02
I keep mis-using the term "fuming."
Kurt Wild's work is with soluble salts.
He knows a great deal about the use
of salts with glazes ...... but has never
suggested, to my knowledge, that he's spent any quantitative time with =
fuming. My error.
The only fuming I've done is at a=20
couple of workshops
where we'd fire the raku, then fume. I
assume this is called "fuming."
Kurt's article in the lastest PMI concerns design
transfer and the glazing possibilities
of soluble salts ...... which I am dabbling
with from time to time.
Anyway, Kurt's such a gentleman that
he didn't challenge me and did provide
the information that was requested on
Clayart. Thank you, Kurt.
Joyce
In the Mojave
Steve Mills on wed 18 sep 02
In message , Brooks Ratledge writes
>Tom Turner fumed salt pieces in the 70's. I've fumed raku, cone 6 ox., c=
>one
>10 red. To fume raku, I dissolved the stannous chloride in water and
>sprayed it on the pot just after it came out of the kiln and before going
>into the combustible. I also used the same technique with iron chloride
>which gave an orange finish to the pieces. The chloride/water mist is
>dangerous as are the fumes. If you try it, be careful. Patricia Harden
>-----------------------------------------------------
This stuff is VERY nasty; My good friend John Dunn reckons he has
wrecked his lungs doing this. You need a VERY high grade respirator for
this, not just any old face mask!
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
| |
|
