CNW on tue 25 jul 00
I am supposed to help choose supplies for my old school this fall. I am =
looking for a white earthenware or lowfire clay. It will need to be for =
all round use, raku, handbuilt, and throwing.=20
I don't throw much and I use red clays so does any body out there have =
any feedback on Highwater's Sandy Bottoms, White Earthenware and their =
Raku white?
This will be a community college situation, only two out of 13 are art =
students so I don't expect a lot of prior experience with clay.=20
Celia in North Carolina --free at last (finals are over--and I'm in a =
much better mood--sorry about the grumpiness-
Sheron Roberts on wed 26 jul 00
I am not a sales rep for
Highwater, however I do
purchase my clay from them.
Celia, I was introduced to
the White Earthenware last
year at a workshop. We
used it for handbuilding, and
I loved it. I alternate between
Craggy Crunch, a cone 10
stoneware and the White
Earthenware for hand building.
Why, because I do different
things with each clay. The
earthenware is wonderfully
easy to smooth as you build
with it. I use an old bank card.
I have thrown some pieces with
it, but stick to cone 10 Phoenix
for functional. I have not tried
the White Earthenware for=20
raku yet.
Sheron in NC
Peg Landham on wed 26 jul 00
Celia said:
<...does any body out there have any feedback on Highwater's Sandy =
Bottoms, White Earthenware and their Raku white?>
Celia,
As a raku artist, I've used Highwater's Raku White for a couple of =
years, and been very happy with it. Tho' since I have hardly used =
anything else I'm no expert. However, a friend of mine teaches high =
school and uses it exclusively for ALL the kid's projects: earthenware =
through raku, handbuilding and throwing. She says it keeps things =
simple, and it works well all around. You can take it all the way to =
cone 10, I believe, although I never have (yet.) A word, though: it can =
take some skillful rib work to throw a smooth surface with all that =
grog. Then again, what better way to make a kid truly appreciate his =
first fine throwing body? (And now that I mention it, I think I'll go =
dig into that box of Standard 225 and sling some clay around...)
Happy Mud-Hunting!
Peg Landham in Birmingham
JAlexan491@AOL.COM on wed 26 jul 00
Hi Celia in NC
I have used Highwater's sandy bottoms for over four years now and I love it.
I do all slab and coil handbuilt pieces. Usually very large. But also some
small pieces. I fire to cone 04 in an electric kiln.
Hope this helps.
Janice in NC
shane mickey on fri 20 may 05
johnathan,mark et al
i believe that highwater is not cutting corners, the no tie thing happen when they switched to a new building and mixer. i was under the understanding that the machine was not set up to do this? I could be wrong. For those further away from asheville (i live in bakersville 1 hour north) i can imagine that your clay may be drying out, however most potters down here have noticed that their clay is coming more wet than in the past. They did just stop mixing loafers glory due to problems with that clay, they are working on a new recipe, for any laofers users. The next time i am down there and run into brian i will ask him about the ties to get the straight poop.
shane mickey
_______________________________________________
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Jonathan Kaplan on fri 20 may 05
A mixer mixes the clay.
A new building contains equipment and materials to mix the clay.
Neither have anything to do with, or should have anything to do with
not putting a correct closure on the bag. The statements is a
philosophical non-sequitor.
" i believe that highwater is not cutting corners, the no tie thing
happen when they switched to a new building and mixer. "
The mixer mixes the dry materials with water. Could be a horizontal
pre-pug, a high speed muller like an Eirich.
Then it drops or is otherwise transferred into an extruder also known
as a pug mill where it is further chopped and mixed, de-aired and
compressed, and then it exits out of a square or rectangular nozzle.
There is then automatic equipment that slices it at a per-determined
length/correct weight and a bag is then slipped over it like a condom,
and it can be sealed be
1. tape gun by hand
2. machine twist tie
3.machine tape
4.folded under
It then goes into the box.
Jonathan
Jonathan Kaplan
Ceramic Design Group
PO Box 775112
Steamboat Springs CO 80477
(970) 879-9139
(please use this address for all USPS deliveries)
Plant Location:
1280 13th Street Suite K
Steamboat Springs CO 80487
(please use this address for all UPS, courier, and common carrier
deliveries only!!)
info@ceramicdesigngroup.net
www.ceramicdesigngroup.net
On May 20, 2005, at 7:33 AM, shane mickey wrote:
> johnathan,mark et al
>
> i believe that highwater is not cutting corners, the no tie thing
> happen when they switched to a new building and mixer. i was under the
> understanding that the machine was not set up to do this? I could be
> wrong. For those further away from asheville (i live in bakersville 1
> hour north) i can imagine that your clay may be drying out, however
> most potters down here have noticed that their clay is coming more wet
> than in the past. They did just stop mixing loafers glory due to
> problems with that clay, they are working on a new recipe, for any
> laofers users. The next time i am down there and run into brian i will
> ask him about the ties to get the straight poop.
> shane mickey
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
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>
Elizabeth Herod on wed 14 jun 06
I have so far sampled 5 clays from Highwater and I want to try more.
I loved the Orangestone particularly. I tried orangestone, aurora, moon
white, zella stone, and craggy crunch in wood, salt, and gas firing.
Since I live in the Northeast, T1 is available and similar to Craggy Crunch=
,
and there is plenty of white stoneware around.
I=B9m looking for recommendations on other clay to try. Phoenix, Trina buff
and Helios have been suggested.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks for the help
Beth
Kitty on thu 15 jun 06
Hello!
Highwater is just across town from me, so I've managed to work my way=20
through just about all
of their midrange clay and a fair bit of their highfire clay before=20
settling on a few I like. My teacher
encouraged us to try as many as we could.=20
The orangestone is (imho) their roughest high-fire clay...the opposite=20
of the spectrum from Helios.=20
Pheonix is a decent medium-tooth, the same as Aurora except for colour. =20
I mix Loafer's Glory and
Orangestone for my non-coloured reduction marbleware...still having=20
occasional cracking issues,
but i'm chalking that to inexperience and glossing over the details (the=20
hard way is the quick way to learn).=20
When it works, though...wow.=20
Highwater's Half-and-Half is Loafer's Glory and Helios.
Currently, I'm stuck on Helios porcelain. Yes, it's less forgiving than=20
most (but not all!) stonewares,
but is the most pleasant porcelain i've come across (so far.) If you=20
like smooth clays, you'll adore
Helios. It takes little coaxing to get it to do what I want, isn't=20
overly thirsty (for a porcelain), and
apparantly doesn't care what you bisque it to. (I've had similar=20
success at 010, 06, and 04) Also,
it can be used successfully at cone 10, cone 6, and raku! (I haven't=20
verified this personally
yet, but will by my next firing. Another potter in the area uses it at=20
cone 6 ox with great success.) About
the only downside at the moment is the price, as I'm on a student's budge=
t.
~Kitty
a [student] lurker peeking out of the woodwork. (clayworks? kilnbrick?)
Elizabeth Herod wrote:
>I have so far sampled 5 clays from Highwater and I want to try more.
>
>I loved the Orangestone particularly. I tried orangestone, aurora, moon
>white, zella stone, and craggy crunch in wood, salt, and gas firing.
>
>Since I live in the Northeast, T1 is available and similar to Craggy Cru=
nch,
>and there is plenty of white stoneware around.
>
>I=B9m looking for recommendations on other clay to try. Phoenix, Trina =
buff
>and Helios have been suggested.
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions?
>
>Thanks for the help
>
>Beth
> =20
>
ned guttman on thu 15 jun 06
Beth,
Phoenix is a nice throwing clay that is very forgiving, but some
glazes can look dull when fired. Helios is a nice porcelain, but
definitely not forgiving. Try Loafers Glory - a nice white clay that
is like a cross between stoneware and porcelain. Takes glazes well,
feels like porcelain when throwing, but has some of the forgiveness of
stoneware clays.
Cheers,
Ned
On 6/14/06, Elizabeth Herod wrote:
> I have so far sampled 5 clays from Highwater and I want to try more.
>
> I loved the Orangestone particularly. I tried orangestone, aurora, moon
> white, zella stone, and craggy crunch in wood, salt, and gas firing.
>
>
> I=B9m looking for recommendations on other clay to try. Phoenix, Trina b=
uff
> and Helios have been suggested.
>
Heloisa Nunes on fri 16 jun 06
Hi, Beth,
For me, clay is about what you do. Depending on what you do, glazes effects
you like, you pick a clay.
When I was in the US, my Art Center used Phoenix and P10 for cone 10 gas
firings and people with electric kilns sometimes used P5 for cone 6.
I don't know what kind of work you do, but absorption rates vary a lot on
the different clays. Phoenix will absorb less than Moon white at cone 6 and
10(Cone 6 phoenix absorption 3.9, cone 6 Moon white absorption 6.1). For me,
I look a lot at the colors too because of the glazes I use. A celadon
green/transparent blue will be brighter with a white clay, It will have a
warm cast with a creamy or brownish clay and a bluish cast with a grey clay.
Do you want speckles with your glazes? Phoenix will give you speckles in gas
with most glazes. P10 will not.
Highwater calatog is wonderfull and you can see the colors that you get.
Phoenix in gas is greyish and in electric it is creamy. It will give you
different colors depending on the glazes you like to use.
I find Helios kind of hard to use because it is more like porcelain,
buttery. You have to dry slowlyer if you attach things/handbuild, but I
personally loved the feel for it and it is stark white when fired. The
absorption rate is the lowest of their clays and interestingly the same at
cone 6 and 10- you can even not glaze the inside of oil candles and it will
not leak. (less than 1 percent).
Personally I found not much difference in throwing and attaching parts
(getting cracks) between Phoenix, P10 and Moon White.
I hope this helps.
Good luck
Heloisa Nunes
São Paulo, Brazil
Veena Raghavan on fri 16 jun 06
Pheonix is a great stoneware and comes our very well in reduction, especially
for red iron oxide glazes, (tenmokus, for example) shinos, copper reds and
blues.
P10 is a wonderful throwing clay but is not as good for blue green celadons.
It works well with all the other glazes I have tried. The celadons seem to
need more Grolleg, so Helios is better for them. The light glazes come out
beautifully. For cone 6 electric, the P-5 is a great porcelain clay.
Hope this helps.
Veena
VeenaRaghavan@cs.com
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