Linda Hughes on mon 19 jun 00
Jonathan,
What are you using the epoxy for? We used a clear two part epoxy to repair
a chip in a vase. We just added some whiting to get the right consistency.
We were repairing a vase that used Ohata Kaki glaze on the interior of the
piece, where the chip was. For colorants we just added red iron oxide and a
little cobalt carb to get the right color match. The trick is getting the
right amount of whiting, if you don't get it right the patch is a bit
shiny, but it did the trick. Good luck, Linda
> [Original Message]
> From: Jonathan Kaplan
> To:
> Date: 6/19/00 7:21:26 PM
> Subject: Epoxy
>
> Does anyone have a source for a white epoxy ( 2 part) and coloring
pigments
> for that white base?
>
> TIA
>
> Jonathan
>
> Jonathan Kaplan
> Ceramic Design Group LTd/Production Services
> PO Box 775112
> Steamboat Springs, CO 80477
> (970) 879-9139 voice and fax
> http://www.sni.net/ceramicdesign
>
> UPS: 1280 13th St. Unit13
> Steamboat Springs, CO 80487
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
--- Linda Hughes
--- mamahug@earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
Matthew Blumenthal on mon 19 jun 00
Look into West Systems. Marine stuff. You can probably get info at just
about any boat place.
At 03:25 PM 6/19/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Does anyone have a source for a white epoxy ( 2 part) and coloring pigments
>for that white base?
>
>TIA
>
>Jonathan
>
>Jonathan Kaplan
>Ceramic Design Group LTd/Production Services
>PO Box 775112
>Steamboat Springs, CO 80477
>(970) 879-9139 voice and fax
>http://www.sni.net/ceramicdesign
>
>UPS: 1280 13th St. Unit13
>Steamboat Springs, CO 80487
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
***********************************************
Matthew Blumenthal
Fremont CA
Potter, Guitar Player, Kayaker, and
General Computer Nut
mattblum@pacbell.net
http://www.mattegrafix.com
ICQ 12691259
***********************************************
Jonathan Kaplan on mon 19 jun 00
Does anyone have a source for a white epoxy ( 2 part) and coloring pigments
for that white base?
TIA
Jonathan
Jonathan Kaplan
Ceramic Design Group LTd/Production Services
PO Box 775112
Steamboat Springs, CO 80477
(970) 879-9139 voice and fax
http://www.sni.net/ceramicdesign
UPS: 1280 13th St. Unit13
Steamboat Springs, CO 80487
Graeme Anderson on tue 20 jun 00
Jonathan. You could try a lapidary shop for the epoxy and colourants. At =
one time I was using the epoxy resin (clear) for embedding bits of opal, =
insects, stones, and so on. Different colours could be used in the =
epoxy to give an opaque base. I guess there would be a white colourant =
to add.
Graeme Anderson. Gemopal Pottery. Lightning Ridge.Australia. 2834.
http://www.turboweb.net.au/~gemopal/
roger on tue 20 jun 00
Jonathan wrote: "Does anyone have a source for a white epoxy ( 2 part)
and coloring pigments for that white base?"
I use marine epoxy made by WEST, available from marine supply stores.
The natural color is a light, transparent, honey color. Add TiO2 to get
a nice opaque white. Add dry paint tinting colors to get any shade you
want. If you need a small quantity, look for 2-part Devcon epoxy at the
hardware store. Get the non- "5-Minute Epoxy" so you have time to play
around with the additives to get the shade you want.
Roger Korn
McKay Creek Ceramics
North Plains, OR
Dannon Rhudy on tue 20 jun 00
Jonathan, there is now a white version of PC 7, and I read
that colorants can be added - I've used oxides to color it,
but haven't tried anything else.
How'd the Denver show go? And are you gonna send me some
images of your Urban ware? - Dannon
At 03:25 PM 6/19/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Does anyone have a source for a white epoxy ( 2 part) and coloring pigments
>for that white base?
>
>TIA
>
>Jonathan
>
>Jonathan Kaplan
>Ceramic Design Group LTd/Production Services
>PO Box 775112
>Steamboat Springs, CO 80477
>(970) 879-9139 voice and fax
>http://www.sni.net/ceramicdesign
>
>UPS: 1280 13th St. Unit13
>Steamboat Springs, CO 80487
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Lois on tue 20 jun 00
Jonathan,
Try PC. 11 A white 2 part epoxy for marine use. It will hold
any thing together!
I have used rio, mason stains, drops of food coloring and even
scrapings from colored pencills to color it. All have worked and held
up well. PC.7 is a dark grey 2part epoxy.
I find it at most hardware stores.
Info on the can is; Protective Coating Co.
Allentown , Pa 18103
lois in Durham NC where it is hot and humid!
Martin A. Arkowitz on tue 20 jun 00
i have used the white version oif PC7 and have mixed in small amounts of mason
stain to approximate the color of the background glaze i am trying to match. it
works very well. try it!!
eleanor arkowitz
Antoinette Badenhorst on mon 8 sep 03
Hi Clayarters. Me and name brands again.. What would you consider the
best epoxy to glue two pieces of ^10 fired clays together? ..and if you
have to do that with bisque ware (pit fired ware)? And since we are on
the subject; which one will glue glass together the best? I think I have
at least half of the different kinds available in America in my studio
by now. I could not use any of those with satisfying results yet.
Thanks.
Antoinette Badenhorst
105 Westwood Circle
Saltillo MS
38866
662 869 1651
www.clayandcanvas.com
Dave Finkelnburg on mon 8 sep 03
Antoinette,
I have found one issue with epoxy glue is it can be quite liquid, and
tend to run away from the surfaces you need to bond before the epoxy sets.
This is not a problem with two surfaces that fit perfectly, but for ceramics
that are often irregular and sometimes have a large gap I now use either
PC-7 or a Loctite product, a putty epoxy. The latter does have a very short
working time before it sets.
Good potting!
Dave Finkelnburg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Antoinette Badenhorst"
>....What would you consider the
> best epoxy to glue two pieces of ^10 fired clays together? ..and if you
> have to do that with bisque ware (pit fired ware)?
Valice Raffi on tue 9 sep 03
Antoinette,
I use PC-7 alot, comes in two little cans - mix the parts together. It's
pewter grey colored so it works especially well with smoked pieces. I use
the little ice cream sample spoons for measuring when I want a small
amount. They also make a white version, PC-11.
Another glue I've been really happy with is WeldBond. Looks kinda like
Elmers glue (white & dries clear). If you buy it, try & get ahold of the
brochure the company puts out, it gives further instructions on gluing all
types of things.
Valice
in Sacramento - last time I counted, I had 23 different glues in the
studio, but I think I've added more!
>Hi Clayarters. Me and name brands again.. What would you consider the
>best epoxy to glue two pieces of ^10 fired clays together? ..and if you
>have to do that with bisque ware (pit fired ware)? And since we are on
>the subject; which one will glue glass together the best? I think I have
>at least half of the different kinds available in America in my studio
>by now. I could not use any of those with satisfying results yet.
Alycia Goeke on tue 9 sep 03
have you tried a glue called E6000? i do glass mosaics using it and it works
very well. have a potter friend that uses it to attach parts like hinges and
handles to pottery. can be found at craft stores.
best wishes,
alycia
Marcia Selsor on tue 9 sep 03
PC-7 and PC-11 one is black and one is white . I think 7 is black and 11
ia white. Usually available at an Ace or Coast to Coast hardware store.
I have used this on sculptural pieces that have been damaged. Works very
well and can be sanded and painted. I learned about them from other
ceramic artists at my residency at Archie Bray last year. Both types
have a reasonable working time, can be sanded withing 24 hours and take
paint.
Marcia Selsor
Antoinette Badenhorst wrote:
> Hi Clayarters. Me and name brands again.. What would you consider the
> best epoxy to glue two pieces of ^10 fired clays together? ..and if you
> have to do that with bisque ware (pit fired ware)? And since we are on
> the subject; which one will glue glass together the best? I think I have
> at least half of the different kinds available in America in my studio
> by now. I could not use any of those with satisfying results yet.
> Thanks.
> Antoinette Badenhorst
> 105 Westwood Circle
> Saltillo MS
> 38866
> 662 869 1651
> www.clayandcanvas.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
--
Tuscany 2004
http://home.bresnan.net/~m.selsor/Tuscany2004.html
Snail Scott on tue 9 sep 03
At 05:02 PM 9/8/03 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi Clayarters. Me and name brands again.. What would you consider the
>best epoxy to glue two pieces of ^10 fired clays together? ..and if you
>have to do that with bisque ware (pit fired ware)? And since we are on
>the subject; which one will glue glass together the best?
For stoneware, I favor PC-7. PowerPoxy is good,
too, but I haven't seen it around lately. JB Weld
is OK, but less viscous - better for attaching
broken things back to themselves than for filling
ittegular gaps. PC-7 is gray; PowerPoxy is tan...
sometimes a useful property if the joint will be
bare. If it is to be painted, don't fill the joint
all the way to the surface with epoxy. Leave 1/8"
or so and fill it with Bondo (or any auto-body
filler) - the paint will adhere much better to
the Bondo than to the epoxy. All of these can be
sanded and carved for precise contours.
My local big-box stores stock only JB Weld, which
is generally sold in expensive 2 oz. tubes (though
the Lowe's price was half that of Home Despot.)
The True Value hardware also only had JB Weld, but
special-ordered the PC-7 at a reasonable price.
It comes in cans, ranging from 2 oz to 1 gallon.
I get the pint size, generally. There's also an
underwater formula, which is white, and more
expensive, called PC-11.)
For pit-fired work, I don't have a really good
suggestion. Epoxy will work just fine, but because
it's so much stronger than the clay, it's a bit of
overkill. It also means that if the piece breaks,
it will break at the clay, not the joint. I have
used epoxy for this, and it's been fine, but there
ought to be something better. For breakage rather
than assembly (or for perfectly-fitted joints),
plain old white glue like Elmer's (or the 'tacky'
craft glues like Aleene's) work very well indeed.
Don't underestimate these old standbys.
For glass, I'd use silicone.
-Snail
Marcia Selsor on tue 9 sep 03
PC-7 and PC-11 one is black and one is white . I think 7 is black and 11
ia white. Usually available at an Ace or Coast to Coast hardware store.
I have used this on sculptural pieces that have been damaged. Works very
well and can be sanded and painted. I learned about them from other
ceramic artists at my residency at Archie Bray last year. Both types
have a reasonable working time, can be sanded withing 24 hours and take
paint.
Marcia Selsor
--
Tuscany 2004
http://home.bresnan.net/~m.selsor/Tuscany2004.html
Marcia Selsor on wed 10 sep 03
Robert Izzi wrote:
> Will this epoxy hold well enough to keep large wall placks on the wall?
Which epoxy? I build "nubbins" onto the backs of my big plaques for
threading the wire through to hang like a picture.
Marcia Selsor
--
Tuscany 2004
http://home.bresnan.net/~m.selsor/Tuscany2004.html
Robert Izzi on wed 10 sep 03
Will this epoxy hold well enough to keep large wall placks on the wall?
Robert Izzi on thu 11 sep 03
Marcia, I usually attach a clay nubbins to the back of some of my wall
hangings but am curious about which is the best epoxy to use ,say on small pots. I
have some large plates , 14 to 18 inches in diameter and have undercut the
foot then wrapped copper wire around the foot and twisted the ends to form a
loop for hanging. Seems to work . anyway thanks for your responce.
Bob I
Ababi on thu 11 sep 03
I think so if you apply it on a wide area and a little thick. I add to
it, underneath, a soft metal screen. In general we=hen you have tube A
and B I apply a little more than B better than the other way around. You
can smooth it with a wet finger. You must try first. The epoxy will be
the strongest part of your plate!
If you will tell me more details about the plate, size weight I can
answer better.
Ababi Sharon
Glaze addict
Kibbutz Shoval Israel
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910
http://www.matrix2000.co.nz/Matrix%20Demo/Ababi.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Robert Izzi
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2003 2:12 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: epoxy
Will this epoxy hold well enough to keep large wall placks on the wall?
.
Snail Scott on thu 11 sep 03
At 08:12 PM 9/10/03 EDT, you wrote:
>Will this epoxy hold well enough to keep large wall placks on the wall?
You mean epoxying them directly to the wall
surface?
In almost every case, the epoxy is stronger
than the material it's attached to. It's
stronger than your clay, stronger than drywall,
stronger than concrete block, etc.
The strength of the connection depends entirely
on the material it's connected to.
That's why I prefer to incorporate a physical
support (brackets, bolts, lugs, deep texture,
etc) rather than just a flat adhesive attachment.
The larger the contact surface and the lighter
the piece being hung, the safer it will be,
as the stress per unit of area will be less.
So, thin flat tiles do OK being attached with
mastic or thinset directly to walls, if the
wall surface is clean and sturdy. Hanging a
20 pound artwork from a 2 square inch area
of contact is begging for problems, no matter
now strong the adhesive; it's the wall and/or
the clay that will fail first.
So, without knowing your exact forms and
situation, I'll just say generally: No flat-
art-to-flat-wall glue jobs. Or flat-art-to-
flat-bracket (or hook) connections. Make
sure that the shape of the back of the clay
has indentations to 'lock' the epoxy (or the
epoxy-plus-hanger) into them. This is not
critical for small, lightweight work, but
the heavier the piece, the more important
it becomes. Even if you plan to glue the
artwork directly to a wall, provide some
deep texture to give a mechanical bond, to
supplement the epoxy.
The adhesive joint will never be stronger
than the material on either side of it.
-Snail
william schran on thu 11 sep 03
Marcia wrote: >PC-7 and PC-11 one is black and one is white<
Both PC 7 & 11 are 2 part paste epoxies. PC7 has a black part & a
white part that mix to a mid/dark gray. PC11 mixes to a white color
and is a marine epoxy, intended for use in and around water. I fixed
a crack in an acrylic tub with this stuff - works great. Both are a
very heavy bodied paste and work to fill in voids if one is making
repairs with small pieces missing. Have assembled many sectional clay
works with this stuff - has never come apart!
I still remember seeing the ad for PC7, a glass soda bottle with all
sorts of things (wooden dowel, golf ball, etc) glued to it on the
counter at the hardware store.
Bill
Russel Fouts on fri 12 sep 03
Dave
>> I have found one issue with epoxy glue is it can be quite liquid, and tend to run away from the surfaces you need to bond before the epoxy sets. This is not a problem with two surfaces that fit perfectly, but for ceramics that are often irregular and sometimes have a large gap I now use either PC-7 or a Loctite product, a putty epoxy. The latter does have a very short
working time before it sets. <<
I have a friend who restores porcelain. He uses the slow version of
Araldite(sp?) and fills it with talc (baby talc for him) to get it the
consistancy he wants. You can use it this way to fill gaps or even
stiffer to make parts.
BTW, his clients range from the plumber who just broke a customer's sink
and wants it repaired quickly while they are still away and the Royal
China from the Palace. "Hello, Bob? Paola here, Albert broke another
plate last night, can you fix it in time for the State Ball?" ;-)
Russel
--
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
Http://www.mypots.com
Home of "The Potters Portal"
Over 2300 Pottery Related Links!
Updated frequently
My work can also be seen on:
The World Crafts Council International Site: http://www.wccwis.gr
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Pages)
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"To announce that there must be no criticism of the president, or that
we are to stand by the president, right or wrong, is not only
unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American
public." --U.S. President (and Nobel Peace Prize winner) Theodore
Roosevelt.
mel jacobson on mon 13 oct 08
all of the new epoxy's are fun to work with.
they make great accents to books, rings, and
as room temp decoration for pots.
many book binders are mixing color
with epoxy and making decorative
elements.
i have filled old ring/stone missing parts with
colored epoxy.
fun.
you can mix iron, cobalt, copper into the mix.
hardens like stone.
or, use dry tempera, almost any color will mix.
try inks.
acrylics.
it is never ending.
epoxy. what a concept.
mel
from minnetonka:
website http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
clayart site:
http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
tony clennell on mon 13 oct 08
Mel: I have used an expoxy made by former Cranbrook prof Graham Marks
sold by his company http://www.evsupply.com/
This product can be used to repair functional ceramics since I believe
the firing temp is 700F. Well above our kitchen stove range.
With wood fired ceramics fired up near the throat arch which is my
favourite resting place there always seems to be a little fissure or
crack that bugs me and I can do a museum quality restoration using
this epoxy along with the packets of colouring oxides he supplies.
I once visited our local museum and saw a wonderful jug with the lip
broken off. Later on return I saw it repaired using this stuff and I
was unable to see the repair job. If museums can repair works of art
we too should be able to.
I am currently thinking about making two pieces 2 feet tall each and
using the epoxy to weld them together in the middle. I can't lift the
4 foot piece in and out of the kiln so I will build it in sections and
then use the magic epoxy to hold them together after the firing. It
sets as hard as stone so I am confident of it's bond.
Cheers,
Tony
On Mon, Oct 13, 2008 at 11:21 AM, mel jacobson wrote:
> all of the new epoxy's are fun to work with.
> they make great accents to books, rings, and
> as room temp decoration for pots.
>
> many book binders are mixing color
> with epoxy and making decorative
> elements.
> i have filled old ring/stone missing parts with
> colored epoxy.
> fun.
>
> you can mix iron, cobalt, copper into the mix.
> hardens like stone.
> or, use dry tempera, almost any color will mix.
> try inks.
> acrylics.
> it is never ending.
> epoxy. what a concept.
> mel
> from minnetonka:
> website http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
> clayart site:
> http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
>
--
http://sourcherrypottery.com
http://smokieclennell.blogspot.com
Sherron & Jim Bowen on mon 13 oct 08
Remember that sellers of fine antiques and craft items can do epoxy repairs,
too. Any expensive or rare items should be inspected with a black light to
verify whether or not an item has been repaired.
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "tony clennell"
To:
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 10:17 AM
Subject: Re: epoxy
Snail Scott on tue 14 oct 08
On Oct 13, 2008, at 11:17 AM, tony clennell wrote:
>
> I am currently thinking about making two pieces 2 feet tall each and
> using the epoxy to weld them together in the middle. I can't lift the
> 4 foot piece in and out of the kiln so I will build it in sections and
> then use the magic epoxy to hold them together after the firing.
I often do this with larger work, either because it
won't fit in the kiln in one piece, or because the
design just won't hold its own weight while it's
still green. It also allows for temporary assembly
with sticky stuff for exhibitions and permanent
assembly with epoxy later at a buyer's house.
Cheaper and easier to ship in smaller parts, too.
I have used paste epoxies for assembly for a
long time, even on outdoor work, but I don't bring
the epoxy out to the surface. I use it as the primary
adhesive, but stop it 1/8" below the surface of the
joint. I roughen it, then fill the remaining gap with
auto-body filler, which, unlike epoxy, is designed
to last outdoors AND take paint well. No paint is
as permanent outdoors as a fired surface, but it
can last decades if you use quality stuff. If the piece
is unglazed or has engobe surfaces, I use mortar
to fill the gap beyond the epoxy. Using oxides and
stains, it can simulate both the color and texture
of the actual ceramic surface, and will last much
longer than paint. Make sure that the gap you leave
for the filler (either Bondo or mortar) is not just a
shallow, flat trough, as it could pop out over time.
Make it a steep-sided gap, with a bit of texture for
a good mechanical bond.
-Snail
tony clennell on tue 14 oct 08
Snail: Thanx a mortar joint is a great tip! Why didn't I think of
that? Why? I'm new at this stuff outside of utilitarian domestic
ware!
tc
On Tue, Oct 14, 2008 at 8:42 AM, Snail Scott wrote:
> On Oct 13, 2008, at 11:17 AM, tony clennell wrote:
>>
>> I am currently thinking about making two pieces 2 feet tall each and
>> using the epoxy to weld them together in the middle. I can't lift the
>> 4 foot piece in and out of the kiln so I will build it in sections and
>> then use the magic epoxy to hold them together after the firing.
>
>
> I often do this with larger work, either because it
> won't fit in the kiln in one piece, or because the
> design just won't hold its own weight while it's
> still green. It also allows for temporary assembly
> with sticky stuff for exhibitions and permanent
> assembly with epoxy later at a buyer's house.
> Cheaper and easier to ship in smaller parts, too.
>
> I have used paste epoxies for assembly for a
> long time, even on outdoor work, but I don't bring
> the epoxy out to the surface. I use it as the primary
> adhesive, but stop it 1/8" below the surface of the
> joint. I roughen it, then fill the remaining gap with
> auto-body filler, which, unlike epoxy, is designed
> to last outdoors AND take paint well. No paint is
> as permanent outdoors as a fired surface, but it
> can last decades if you use quality stuff. If the piece
> is unglazed or has engobe surfaces, I use mortar
> to fill the gap beyond the epoxy. Using oxides and
> stains, it can simulate both the color and texture
> of the actual ceramic surface, and will last much
> longer than paint. Make sure that the gap you leave
> for the filler (either Bondo or mortar) is not just a
> shallow, flat trough, as it could pop out over time.
> Make it a steep-sided gap, with a bit of texture for
> a good mechanical bond.
>
> -Snail
>
--
http://sourcherrypottery.com
http://smokieclennell.blogspot.com
Sherron & Jim Bowen on tue 14 oct 08
I delete 90 per cent of the clayart posts these days without reading,
however, if the post comes from Snail, Phil, or Wayne I am bound to read it
without regard to the topic.
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "tony clennell"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 8:00 AM
Subject: Re: epoxy
> Snail: Thanx a mortar joint is a great tip! Why didn't I think of
> that? Why? I'm new at this stuff outside of utilitarian domestic
> ware!
Lis Allison on tue 3 nov 09
On Monday 02 November 2009, mel jacobson wrote:
> i use a two part that i got at home depot.
> i just bought the most expensive. get the slow dry/set.
>
No wonder my glue job didn't work, I didn't have the incantations right!
Seriously, could the glue be affected by the absorption rate of the clay?
When I tried the glue-down collars I was using a white clay that I
eventually gave up on because the absorption, even if the clay was well
fired to cone 6, caused late crazing. I did use the expensive 2-part epoxy
but even so the collars tended to come off after a year or two.
BTW, the cork type of pump has problems too. Customers brought them back
because the corks deteriorated after a year. Asked me for new corks.....
had to give them new pumps, of course.
Now I'm using a different clay which seems to be better behaved and I'm
about ready to try the soap/lotion pumps again. But I'll use the plaster
molds from Axner to make the collars. It's really a great way to do them.
Lis
--
Elisabeth Allison
Pine Ridge Studio
www.Pine-Ridge-Studio.blogspot.com
James Freeman on tue 3 nov 09
Lis...
Porous clay would actually aid in epoxy bonding rather than inhibit it.
Epoxy is not a good choice for bonding smooth plastic. If the plastic
flexes, the epoxy separates. I mix epoxy in plastic specimen cups and just
let the excess cure inside. A quick flexing of the cup instantly and
cleanly releases all of the cured epoxy. I believe Mel said that he roughe=
d
up the inside of the plastic collars in order to promote a mechanical bond
rather than relying on the adhesive bond.
A better choice might be E6000 industrial adhesive. It bonds most anything=
,
and is readily available at home centers and craft stores. I used E6000 to
glue some metal Nixalite bird spike strips atop my metal mailbox, and after
eight years of sun, rain, snow, ice, and freezing and thawing they are stil=
l
firmly attached. Should easily withstand the relatively minor stress a
lotion pump is subject to.
Take care.
...James
James Freeman
"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice. I should
not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
-Michel de Montaigne
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/clayart/
On Tue, Nov 3, 2009 at 9:18 AM, Lis Allison wrote:
> On Monday 02 November 2009, mel jacobson wrote:
> > i use a two part that i got at home depot.
> > i just bought the most expensive. get the slow dry/set.
> >
> No wonder my glue job didn't work, I didn't have the incantations right!
>
> Seriously, could the glue be affected by the absorption rate of the clay?
> When I tried the glue-down collars I was using a white clay that I
> eventually gave up on because the absorption, even if the clay was well
> fired to cone 6, caused late crazing. I did use the expensive 2-part epox=
y
> but even so the collars tended to come off after a year or two.
>
> BTW, the cork type of pump has problems too. Customers brought them back
> because the corks deteriorated after a year. Asked me for new corks.....
> had to give them new pumps, of course.
>
> Now I'm using a different clay which seems to be better behaved and I'm
> about ready to try the soap/lotion pumps again. But I'll use the plaster
> molds from Axner to make the collars. It's really a great way to do them.
>
> Lis
>
> --
> Elisabeth Allison
> Pine Ridge Studio
> www.Pine-Ridge-Studio.blogspot.com
>
Snail Scott on tue 3 nov 09
On Nov 3, 2009, at 7:18 AM, Lis Allison wrote:
>
> ...could the glue be affected by the absorption rate of the clay?
Epoxy should work fine on porous and
non-porous materials, but if the surface
is very smooth AND gets wet often, it will
make a less effective joint. If you roughen
the surface before adhesion (in the case of
ceramics, this means before firing), it will
allow the epoxy to make a mechanical bond
as well, and it will hold on much better.
I suggest using a toothbrush to scuff up the
clay on the contact surface, if it's the epoxy-
to-clay contact that's failing - it doesn't
need to be deep texture to be effective.
But, are you sure it's the epoxy-to-clay bond
that is failing?
If it's the epoxy-to-plastic joint that's failing
(much more typical) use medium-grit sandpaper
on the contact surface of the plastic. Few
adhesives bond well to plastics unless they
are solvent-based glues, so it helps if the
surface is roughened to provide a mechanical
bond.
-Snail
June MacDonald on tue 3 nov 09
I've been reading the posts about epoxy or glue, especially for lotion pump=
=3D
s.=3DA0 I don't make these any more, there hasn't been much of a market for=
t=3D
hem over the past few years, but I suspect that some of the lotions and soa=
=3D
ps are the thing that deteriorates the bond of the glue or epoxy when it fa=
=3D
ils, not just the mechanical stress.
June
--- On Tue, 11/3/09, James Freeman wrote:
From: James Freeman
Subject: Re: epoxy
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Received: Tuesday, November 3, 2009, 7:12 AM
Lis...
Porous clay would actually aid in epoxy bonding rather than inhibit it.
Epoxy is not a good choice for bonding smooth plastic.=3DA0 If the plastic
flexes, the epoxy separates.=3DA0 I mix epoxy in plastic specimen cups and =
ju=3D
st
let the excess cure inside.=3DA0 A quick flexing of the cup instantly and
cleanly releases all of the cured epoxy.=3DA0 I believe Mel said that he ro=
ug=3D
hed
up the inside of the plastic collars in order to promote a mechanical bond
rather than relying on the adhesive bond.
A better choice might be E6000 industrial adhesive.=3DA0 It bonds most anyt=
hi=3D
ng,
and is readily available at home centers and craft stores.=3DA0 I used E600=
0 =3D
to
glue some metal Nixalite bird spike strips atop my metal mailbox, and after
eight years of sun, rain, snow, ice, and freezing and thawing they are stil=
=3D
l
firmly attached.=3DA0 Should easily withstand the relatively minor stress a
lotion pump is subject to.
Take care.
...James
James Freeman
"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice.=3DA0 I sho=
ul=3D
d
not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
-Michel de Montaigne
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/clayart/
On Tue, Nov 3, 2009 at 9:18 AM, Lis Allison wrote:
> On Monday 02 November 2009, mel jacobson wrote:
> > i use a two part that i got at home depot.
> > i just bought the most expensive.=3DA0 get the slow dry/set.
> >
> No wonder my glue job didn't work, I didn't have the incantations right!
>
> Seriously, could the glue be affected by the absorption rate of the clay?
> When I tried the glue-down collars I was using a white clay that I
> eventually gave up on because the absorption, even if the clay was well
> fired to cone 6, caused late crazing. I did use the expensive 2-part epox=
=3D
y
> but even so the collars tended to come off after a year or two.
>
> BTW, the cork type of pump has problems too. Customers brought them back
> because the corks deteriorated after a year. Asked me for new corks.....
> had to give them new pumps, of course.
>
> Now I'm using a different clay which seems to be better behaved and I'm
> about ready to try the soap/lotion pumps again. But I'll use the plaster
> molds from Axner to make the collars. It's really a great way to do them.
>
> Lis
>
> --
> Elisabeth Allison
> Pine Ridge Studio
> www.Pine-Ridge-Studio.blogspot.com
>
=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A ______________________________________________________=
______=3D
______=3D0AMake your browsing faster, safer, and easier with the new Intern=
et=3D
Explorer=3DAE 8. Optimized for Yahoo! Get it Now for Free! at http://downl=
oa=3D
ds.yahoo.com/ca/internetexplorer/
mdeadmon on wed 4 nov 09
I use E6000 on all of my clay projects...from lotion pumps to when I get
lazy and attach cabinet drawer handles to the top of lidded containers...=
=3D
=3D2Eit
works great...have had absolutely no issues with its performance, HOWEVER=
=3D
,
it is a bitch to work with in the big tube...it gets clogged up easily, h=
=3D
alf
of the tube gets wasted cause u cant get it out..I have tried everything =
=3D
to
keep the spout unclogged, just isnt happening, so I now buy the smaller
tubes....cost a little more, but heck if you are going to waste half of t=
=3D
he
big tube anyway, whats the difference.=3D0D
When u use it, it is a good idea to put the glue on both pieces that u ar=
=3D
e
gluing....it seems to make a difference...also, when you are attaching
pieces,you need to hold the piece in place with your hands for about 5
minutes, otherwise the piece will slide around, and no,am not putting too
much on there....=3D0D
I have tried every epoxy, superglue, silicone glue out there, and NOTHING=
=3D
works like this stuff does....have never had any returns from lotion dis=
=3D
pensers or spray bottle dispensers...
Lis Allison on wed 4 nov 09
On Tuesday 03 November 2009, Snail Scott wrote:
>
> But, are you sure it's the epoxy-to-clay bond
> that is failing?
>
> If it's the epoxy-to-plastic joint that's failing
> (much more typical) use medium-grit sandpaper
> on the contact surface of the plastic. Few
> adhesives bond well to plastics unless they
> are solvent-based glues, so it helps if the
> surface is roughened to provide a mechanical
> bond.
>
Dear Snail and others,
In actual fact, I don't know which side was failing. The customers
invariably brought me the pot and the pump with any old glue nicely
cleaned off. My guess is that it was the soap/water that caused the
problem, as people using the pumps for lotion never seemed to have a
problem. I'm sure I didn't sand the plastic collars, though, so maybe that
was it.
I'm happy with the plaster collar molds, though, so will stay with that.
But thanks for the glue info - I've filed that away for future reference.
Lis
--
Elisabeth Allison
Pine Ridge Studio
www.Pine-Ridge-Studio.blogspot.com
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