The Hetland Gray's on thu 9 mar 00
I have done a number of tests recently in search of a clear cone 6
glaze. I assumed that transparent and translucent meant clear, but the
glazes have all turned out semi-opaque. Is my understanding of these
designations faulty or am I somehow mixing them wrong? I'm searching
for a food safe, dependable cone 6 glaze that pools nicely. My surface
has areas with impressions and bas relief and i'd like to find a glaze
that can be made to look mostly clear over smooth areas with
concentrations of color in the areas where it pools. I'm planning on
using copper carb to get my color in an oxidation atmosphere. I would
of course, like to steer clear of anything with gerstley in it and I'd
prefer to keep the recipe fairly simple. Any enlightenment provided
would be most appreciated!
Charles G Hughes on fri 10 mar 00
I too have been searching for a good Cone 6ox Clear without Gerstley, I have
tested 2 or 3 and found that they like to applied thin, double dipping gives
me cloudy areas. If I have any success, I'll keep you in mind. I'd
appreciate it if you would do the same!
-Charles
http://www.thecreativeoasis.com
----- Original Message -----
From: The Hetland Gray's
To:
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2000 1:18 PM
Subject: cone six glaze quest
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I have done a number of tests recently in search of a clear cone 6
> glaze. I assumed that transparent and translucent meant clear, but the
> glazes have all turned out semi-opaque. Is my understanding of these
> designations faulty or am I somehow mixing them wrong? I'm searching
> for a food safe, dependable cone 6 glaze that pools nicely. My surface
> has areas with impressions and bas relief and i'd like to find a glaze
> that can be made to look mostly clear over smooth areas with
> concentrations of color in the areas where it pools. I'm planning on
> using copper carb to get my color in an oxidation atmosphere. I would
> of course, like to steer clear of anything with gerstley in it and I'd
> prefer to keep the recipe fairly simple. Any enlightenment provided
> would be most appreciated!
Ron Roy on fri 10 mar 00
You may be looking at bubbles in those glazes - it is very difficult to
make clear glazes at cone 6 without them - especially with boron. There is
always more bubbles over stoneware - less with porcelain type bodies. There
are always more bubbles where glazes are thicker.
You may find a good soak at the top of your firing will help get rid of
them - if thats what the problem is - take a look with a magnifying glass.
Bubbles are bugging me these days - RR
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I have done a number of tests recently in search of a clear cone 6
>glaze. I assumed that transparent and translucent meant clear, but the
>glazes have all turned out semi-opaque. Is my understanding of these
>designations faulty or am I somehow mixing them wrong? I'm searching
>for a food safe, dependable cone 6 glaze that pools nicely. My surface
>has areas with impressions and bas relief and i'd like to find a glaze
>that can be made to look mostly clear over smooth areas with
>concentrations of color in the areas where it pools. I'm planning on
>using copper carb to get my color in an oxidation atmosphere. I would
>of course, like to steer clear of anything with gerstley in it and I'd
>prefer to keep the recipe fairly simple. Any enlightenment provided
>would be most appreciated!
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough
Ontario, Canada
M1G 3N8
Evenings 416-439-2621
Fax 416-438-7849
Monique Duclos on sat 11 mar 00
Hi cone six glaze quest ,
Here is a good clear glaze:
cone 6 ox.
Wollastonite 20
Frit 3134 19.5
Kaolin 21
Silica 20
Feldspar custer 17.5
I have been using it for about 10 years and it is very stable.
Monique Duclos
@micalement
mduclos@hotmail.com
3757 Boul des Fondateurs
St-Isidore Nouveau-Brunswick
Canada E8M 1B5
URL: http://www.angelfire.com/mo/pmdv
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I have done a number of tests recently in search of a clear cone 6
glaze. I assumed that transparent and translucent meant clear, but the
glazes have all turned out semi-opaque. Is my understanding of these
designations faulty or am I somehow mixing them wrong? I'm searching
for a food safe, dependable cone 6 glaze that pools nicely. My surface
has areas with impressions and bas relief and i'd like to find a glaze
that can be made to look mostly clear over smooth areas with
concentrations of color in the areas where it pools. I'm planning on
using copper carb to get my color in an oxidation atmosphere. I would
of course, like to steer clear of anything with gerstley in it and I'd
prefer to keep the recipe fairly simple. Any enlightenment provided
would be most appreciated!
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
Alison Hamilton on sun 12 mar 00
Here's a copy of Ron Roy's Clear glaze, cone 6 ox. which Autumn Downey
offered the list last May:
Ron Roy Clear
=============
F-4 FELDSPAR........ 31.00 31.00%
SILICA.............. 21.00 21.00%
FRIT 3134........... 5.00 5.00%
GERSTLEY BORATE..... 10.00 10.00%
EPK KAOLIN.......... 17.00 17.00%
WHITING............. 13.00 13.00%
TALC................ 3.00 3.00%
========
100.00
CaO 0.54* 12.11%
MgO 0.10* 1.64%
K2O 0.05* 1.90%
Na2O 0.14* 3.48%
TiO2 0.00 0.07%
Al2O3 0.35 14.23%
B2O3 0.16* 4.42%
P2O5 0.00 0.05%
SiO2 2.60 61.90%
Fe2O3 0.00 0.21%
These were Autumn's comments at the time she submitted it to clayart:
> It seems to be nice and clear at Cone 6 and colours are
> bright and true - as far as I've seen. I don't have any red type
> underglazes known to work anyway, so this still needs to be checked. It
> passed the vinegar test nicely. (It has more silica and less boron than our
> original recipe so doesn't tolerate the cool spots in the kiln as well, but
> for true cone 6's, it seems very good.)
>
I haven't tried it myself, but maybe others have had a chance since
then, and could comment on their experience of it.
good luck!
Alison Hamilton
Trout Lake
Dorset, Ontario
The Hetland Gray's on sun 12 mar 00
I'm gonna whip up a couple of tests based on the glazes people have so far
provided tomorrow-I'll let you know what happens!
Carrie Gray-Wood
Charles G Hughes wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I too have been searching for a good Cone 6ox Clear without Gerstley, I have
> tested 2 or 3 and found that they like to applied thin, double dipping gives
> me cloudy areas. If I have any success, I'll keep you in mind. I'd
> appreciate it if you would do the same!
>
> -Charles
> http://www.thecreativeoasis.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: The Hetland Gray's
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2000 1:18 PM
> Subject: cone six glaze quest
>
> > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > I have done a number of tests recently in search of a clear cone 6
> > glaze. I assumed that transparent and translucent meant clear, but the
> > glazes have all turned out semi-opaque. Is my understanding of these
> > designations faulty or am I somehow mixing them wrong? I'm searching
> > for a food safe, dependable cone 6 glaze that pools nicely. My surface
> > has areas with impressions and bas relief and i'd like to find a glaze
> > that can be made to look mostly clear over smooth areas with
> > concentrations of color in the areas where it pools. I'm planning on
> > using copper carb to get my color in an oxidation atmosphere. I would
> > of course, like to steer clear of anything with gerstley in it and I'd
> > prefer to keep the recipe fairly simple. Any enlightenment provided
> > would be most appreciated!
Marvin Klotz on tue 14 mar 00
At 08:33 PM 03/12/2000 -0500, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Here's a copy of Ron Roy's Clear glaze, cone 6 ox. which Autumn Downey
>offered the list last May:
>
>Ron Roy Clear
> =============
> F-4 FELDSPAR........ 31.00 31.00%
> SILICA.............. 21.00 21.00%
> FRIT 3134........... 5.00 5.00%
> GERSTLEY BORATE..... 10.00 10.00%
> EPK KAOLIN.......... 17.00 17.00%
> WHITING............. 13.00 13.00%
> TALC................ 3.00 3.00%
> ========
> 100.00
>
> CaO 0.54* 12.11%
> MgO 0.10* 1.64%
> K2O 0.05* 1.90%
> Na2O 0.14* 3.48%
> TiO2 0.00 0.07%
> Al2O3 0.35 14.23%
> B2O3 0.16* 4.42%
> P2O5 0.00 0.05%
> SiO2 2.60 61.90%
> Fe2O3 0.00 0.21%
>
>
>These were Autumn's comments at the time she submitted it to clayart:
>
>> It seems to be nice and clear at Cone 6 and colours are
>> bright and true - as far as I've seen. I don't have any red type
>> underglazes known to work anyway, so this still needs to be checked. It
>> passed the vinegar test nicely. (It has more silica and less boron than our
>> original recipe so doesn't tolerate the cool spots in the kiln as well, but
>> for true cone 6's, it seems very good.)
I have tried this glaze over several Mason Stain underglazes and indeed it
worked well with many but I did get bleaching of underglazes such as
Crimson, Deep Crimson and Clover Pink. Ron Roy also offered the group
another Cone 6 oxidation Clear which does not give bleaching of the pinks.
However this glaze contains Gerstley Borate which the initiator of this
thread wanted to avoid,
Whiting 16.5
G. Borate 18.0
G200 Feldspar 32.0
EPK 14.0
Silica 19.5
Joan Klotz
The Hetland Gray's on thu 16 mar 00
In the latest set of tests I did, I noticed quite a bit of bubbles. I've
selected the glaze with the lowest amount, and I'm going to do some more work
with that one. I feel really silly asking this next question... My kiln is
electric, and frankly, it's old enough that I just turn all the switches to
high fire and let'er rip. It's no speed demon and usually makes ^6 in about
seven hours. this is what the manufacturer recommends for high fires, but i am
concerned that perhaps my bubble problems might be related to this "faster"
firing. Should I be firing more slowly? And, is it best to soak an electric
by putting in a ^7 sitter and waiting for ^ 6 to fall and then waiting for a
certain time period before shutting down? How long is long enough?
thanks,
Carrie
>
Ron Roy on sat 18 mar 00
Here is a revision of the clear that will work with the chrome-tin reds and
pinks. It has not been tested - for melt, durability or colour response but
I will bet it will pass all.
If anyone tries it I would appreciate knowing what happened.
RR3/00 Cone 6 clear (untested)
G200 - 22.0 (Custer should work just fine)
Ferro frit 3134 - 24.0 (fusion frit f12 will work)
Wolastonite - 23.0
EPK - 23.0
Silica - 8.0
Total - 100.0
If anyone has this tested at a lab for oxide release please forward the
recipe and results to John Hesselberth for his data base.
If anyone would like to do some testing of an even more durable version
with some strontium just let me know.
Ron Roy also offered the group
>another Cone 6 oxidation Clear which does not give bleaching of the pinks.
>However this glaze contains Gerstley Borate which the initiator of this
>thread wanted to avoid,
>
>Whiting 16.5
>G. Borate 18.0
>G200 Feldspar 32.0
>EPK 14.0
>Silica 19.5
>
>Joan Klotz
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough
Ontario, Canada
M1G 3N8
Evenings 416-439-2621
Fax 416-438-7849
Ron Roy on sat 18 mar 00
Hi Carrie,
Bubbles are a big problem at cone 6 - thin application helps a lot as does
having porcelain under rather than a stoneware clay. I am not very far
along with my experiments on this but some of the papers I have suggest
using higher alumina type glazes - produce smaller bubbles. Soaking should
have a beneficial effect but the temperature should be decreasing slowly
rather than raising slowly.
The only way to find out which type of soak will be most helpful is to try
different kinds and see which are better. I would start with a slower
overall firing - say 10 hours - and slow down from 400C to 600C (where
boron is melting) and slow at the end with a falling soak for 1 hour.
It becomes very important when doing experiments like this - firing the
same glaze at different temps - to get the same application thickness on
all the tiles. I suggest you make up 10 tiles at the same time. I would
also recommend having a thicker application on part of the tile to show
what happens then.
The trick is to stop the bubbles from forming due to melting and to give
the trapped bubbles a chance to get out.
7 hours is not my idea of a long firing - that means an overall advance of
170C (338F) per hour. If you were trying to trap bubbles in a glaze I would
say to go that fast.
I would like to take a look at your glaze - perhaps there is something that
can be done to minimize the problem.
RR
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>In the latest set of tests I did, I noticed quite a bit of bubbles. I've
>selected the glaze with the lowest amount, and I'm going to do some more work
>with that one. I feel really silly asking this next question... My kiln is
>electric, and frankly, it's old enough that I just turn all the switches to
>high fire and let'er rip. It's no speed demon and usually makes ^6 in about
>seven hours. this is what the manufacturer recommends for high fires, but i am
>concerned that perhaps my bubble problems might be related to this "faster"
>firing. Should I be firing more slowly? And, is it best to soak an electric
>by putting in a ^7 sitter and waiting for ^ 6 to fall and then waiting for a
>certain time period before shutting down? How long is long enough?
>
>thanks,
>Carrie
>
>
>>
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough
Ontario, Canada
M1G 3N8
Evenings 416-439-2621
Fax 416-438-7849
Merrilee F Pascaris on sun 26 mar 00
Has anyone else done any testing on this?
I mixed up the following glaze: RR3/00 Cone 6 Clear (using Custer
Feldspar and Ferro Frit 3134) .
I also tested it with 1.5% cobalt carbonate and another with 2% copper
carbonate. All crazed on our particular clay body, which is from a local
supplier (Rovin, Taylor, MI). It's a gray stoneware clay (RO72), cone
6.
I tried adding 10% more silica, and it still crazed, but less. The
colors were bright and clear.
Ron Roy's Black #3 works very well on this clay body, as well as other
glazes that I've gotten from Clayart, so I have lots of other bases that
I can use, but I'd really like to learn how to revise glazes. I guess
this might be a good way to start. I have Insight, (bought it at NCECA
last year) but to be honest, haven't done too much with it.
I'm open and willing to do what it takes. Any guidance would be
appreciated. Thanks to all for your sharing and support.
Merrilee Pascaris
Birmingham Bloomfield Art Center
Birmingham, MI USA
On Sat, 18 Mar 2000 15:21:00 EST Ron Roy writes:
Original message
Here is a revision of the clear that will work with the
chrome-tin reds and pinks. It has not been tested -
for melt, durability or colour response but I will bet it will pass all.
If anyone tries it I would appreciate knowing what happened.
RR3/00 Cone 6 clear (untested)
G200 - 22.0 (Custer should work just fine)
Ferro frit 3134 - 24.0 (fusion frit f12 will work)
Wolastonite - 23.0
EPK - 23.0
Silica - 8.0
Total - 100.0
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