Michael McDowell on sat 19 feb 00
Nicholas,
I heard about your firing problems on Clayart. I've been working with a small
updraft kiln of similar configuration to your Olympic 2331G, though mine is a
28" diameter one, and I fire to cone 11. It is a little hard to say just what
your problem may be that your kiln is now firing hot in the middle. There are
so many factors. Still, it sounds quite possible that you have got too much
fuel coming in to the kiln for the amount of primary air. You could check on
opening the primary air adjustment plates on the bottom of your burners. It is
just possible that in your efforts to clean out your pilot and burner assembly
you may have slightly increased the diameter of the orfices in your burners.
If so, this would explain why the kiln now fires differently. Propane is a
very concentrated fuel which requires very small orfice opening to properly
mix with the air entering the kiln. You might try opening the supply valve
less completely than you have been, to restrict the flow of fuel somewhat. In
general, I try to fire my kiln being relatively light on the fuel supply while
being tight on the damper control. While I used to be able to fire my kiln to
cone 11 in about 7 hours, I now have intentionally slowed down to about 14
hours this way, and it has paid off in much more even firings.
Another possibility is the stacking pattern. These kilns are very sensitive to
the placement of pots and shelves in the stack. It's best to have at least a
couple of fairly tall shelf spaces at alternating heights (if you use half
shelves). If you experiment with changing the height of the posts under the
first shelf, and the amount of space between the shelves and the wall of the
kiln you should find that this also affects the distribution of heat through
the kiln.
Well, that's all I can think of at this moment for you to consider for
possible sources of your difficulties. Try to make just one adjustment at a
time, so you can know what changes have what effects.
Good Luck...
Michael McDowell
Whatcom County, WA USA
mmpots@memes.com
http://www2.memes.com/mmpots
Marie Tedesco-Folderman on sat 1 jun 02
Good morning to you all,
I have an inquiry regarding my 16 1/2 cubic foot olympic kiln. I
have used it three times and am used to a skutt computer at school so this
is a bit different. It is equipped with a kiln sitter. If anyone
out there has one or experience with one, please advise.
How many hours would it take to do a full load to bisque..07 or 06...and
I also fire to cone 6. I called the company the other day and they
informed me that that kiln at cone 6...1 hr on low, 1 hour med and 8 hours
high....guess what...no where near done. after low and med time and 10 1/2
hours on high. Is this abnormal? Has anyone had any experience
with these bad boys? HELP, Marie ps I have someone
who is interested in it...she has one and loves it she does large
sculptural pots...maybe I should say bye..bye ...please send me any feedback
you may have...thanks
Rock on
and keep the faith!
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william schran on sat 1 jun 02
Marie wrote: "How many hours would it take to do a full load to
bisque..07 or 06...and I also fire to cone 6. I called the company
the other day and they informed me that that kiln at cone 6...1 hr on
low, 1 hour med and 8 hours high....guess what...no where near done.
after low and med time and 10 1/2 hours on high. Is this abnormal?"
Marie - There are so many variables in firing electric kilns that
there may be one or several answers. Was Olympic's response based on
a empty or full kiln. How much ware and furniture you have packed in
the kiln will certainly affect firing time. Firing during summer when
lots of folks are using their AC can affect voltage that is delivered
to you. Might find you do better firing in the wee hours of the
night. How old is your kiln? How many times have you fired it? Old
elements might have a bearing on firing speed.
We have the largest (11 cu. ft.) Axner Super kiln at school, made by
Olympic, fully packed takes 10 hours to complete a bisque, 14 hours
to cone 6. Loosely packed, 10-12 hours to cone 6. We also have a L&L
2927 (10 cu. ft.) that barely reached cone 06 after 12 hours, changed
the elements and can now fire a cone 06 bisque in 7-8 hours (though I
do slow it down to 10 hours).
Bill
Scott Harrison on sat 1 jun 02
Marie,
I received an Olympic 3027 in a pretty good deal a few years back. We had
nothing but problems with blown switches, relays, and looong firing times.
We are on a 208 volt system (school) with a direct line to the distribution
transformer shack. Several months ago I ordered new elements from Euclids,
covered them in ITC 213, and installed them. We then took out all the guts
from the control panel and wired EACH of the 6 elements to 6 solenoid
controlled 30 amp breakers that we hung on the wall. I can now control each
element individually and although I can't switch from parallel to series on
them, it fires great. Firing times to cone 5 are now in the range of 14-18
hours and glazes come out great!. The original switches and relays are at
their limits in this kiln which draws 64 amps. The top and bottom elements
are heavier gauge and draw more amps and those controller switches would
usually burn out first. The kiln sitter is rated at 50 amps so Olympic uses
a bypass relay to run current to the bottom bank. We rewired the kiln sitter
to another solenoid that controls the 6 element breakers. I can't wait to
see the look on the districts bean counters face when they get the bill for
that one!
Scott Harrison
South Fork High School
Miranda CA
Snail Scott on sat 1 jun 02
At 09:13 AM 6/1/02 -0400, you wrote:
...they informed me that that kiln at cone 6...1 hr on low, 1 hour med and
8 hours high....guess what...no where near done. after low and med time and
10 1/2 hours on high.
<<<<
In my experience, Olympic uses some pretty
wussy elements, and they don't last as long
as some. If the current elements have been
in use for a while, new elements might shorten
your firing time.
-Snail
Marie Tedesco-Folderman on sat 1 jun 02
Thank you for replying William. Guess I flew off the handle this
morn...The info from the Olympic Co was for a full load ...8 hours for cone
6. The kiln is new and has been used 3 x....that includes the 020 cone
that they give you with the kiln to test fire.
I have reloaded the kiln and put witness cones on all three selves.
I am not packed tightly...so I will see what happens. I fired the kiln
1 hour low and 1 hour on med and then 10 1/2 hrs on high....the cone 5
witness cone was not even bent abit. Replaced the cones and will
refire...the kiln sitter is set with a small cone 6 and we will see...I can
now not get freaked out after 10 -12 hrs or 14 hours have
passed. William noted that his kiln at school can take between 10-14
hours...11 cubic foot...to go to cone 6. THis is a 16 1/2 foot
oval...so I guess I can expect at least 14 + hours. WIll let you know
how I make out...thanks snail for your input.....Marie
Rock on
and keep the faith!
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Rob Haugen on fri 8 nov 02
Randy,
I am sorry that you have heard "horror" stories about the customer =
service with Olympic Kilns. I can assure you that Olympic Kilns takes =
customer service very seriously. We have been building great kilns for =
over 35 years and plan to continue for many more. If you ever need any =
assistance with your Olympic Kiln, please call me personally at =
800-241-4400 or drop me an e-mail. =20
Rob Haugen on fri 8 nov 02
Ann did not have to wait 1 year to receive her kiln. The kiln that was =
replaced was fired up until the day that the new one was installed. As =
far as the $500 credit goes, this was what was agreed on by the =
manufacturer, the distributor, and the customer. (Please note that the =
$500 was in U.S. funds and that the $6500 is in Canadian funds.) =
Olympic Kilns also paid to have the old kiln removed and returned as =
well as having the new one delivered and installed. There is more to =
the story, however I do not feel that this all needs to be aired on this =
forum. As a manufacturer of kilns for over 35 years I know that =
everything does not always go as planned and that it is very important =
to try your best to make the situation right. =20
Bruce Freund on fri 8 nov 02
I would like to add my opinion and comments about the Olympic Kiln company.
I own their large oval kiln which is now about 5 years old. I have never had
one problem with it.
I talked to the company several times in the past 3-4 months about buying
another kiln and I " MUST" tell you that I have never found people any
nicer, more co-operative and above all, more knowledgeable than the folks at
Olympic. In one of the conversation the owner personally picked up the
phone to answer a specific question. The entire experience has been just
what you would expect--professionalism at its best !!
Family owned business ventures do not last over 30 years if they do not
satisfy customers..
If the folks at Olympic read this "KUDOS" to you and your company.....
Bruce Freund
Diane Mead on fri 8 nov 02
I am having great luck with a brand new Olympic, and friends
nearby with greater resources and knowledge have had good
experiences as well.
I hope we continue on with this good experience.
Diane Mead
Rob Haugen on tue 12 nov 02
Susan,
Arrogant, defined as making exorbitant claims of rank or importance is =
not a trait I think of exhibiting and I apologize for making you feel =
the way that you do. For more than thirty years Olympic Kilns has set =
as it's goal to make innovative and quality products and for that entire =
time I have been available to speak with our customers on any topic from =
kiln operation and repair to building custom kilns for special needs. =
We even provide a toll free phone number (800-241-4400) for this =
purpose. =20
My day is spent between the office and a 70,000 sq. ft. production =
floor. Sometimes fatigue or frustration towards our own people for not =
helping you before it gets to me is reflected in my attitude. I do feel =
that if you can call a company to discuss a "problem with a single =
element", then there is more customer concern than you allow.
Please feel free to call me or my staff and refresh us with any =
questions that you or your electrician may have.
Sincerely,
Bob Haugen
President
Olympic Kilns =20
Bruce Freund on sun 8 jun 03
Cindy,
I have an Olympic kiln. It is the large oval and is about 7 years old. I
have 100 amps coming to the breaker. I control it with a computer. If I just
let the kiln go it would reach temperatures way to fast. I have done over
100 recorded firings without a hitch.
I would like to suggest that you visually observe the elements. I would
first of all turn them on high and see if "all" of the elements get bright
red. I believe that will tell you about the condition of them. If this kiln
has never gotten to temperature I would recheck my requirements for wiring,
breakers and supply amps to the kiln. If they are all right then I would
contact Olympic on their 800 number and talk to them. I have found them tho
be" extremely "helpful. I would suspect that if the elements full fire then
there might possibly be a problem in the selector switches. Again, I would
call the factory. Hope this has been some help.
bruce
Michael McDowell on tue 11 nov 03
Dale,
From the tone of your last post I can't help but think that you are
still stressing over the cracks that formed in the lid of your new
Olympic Gas kiln. I have had two such kilns in my potting history.
Both formed cracks in the lids when first fired. I did nothing about
either of them. Just kept firing.
My first one was an early Olympic. Made while they were still out
here in Seattle. That kiln must be 28 years old now. It's in its
fourth studio now, but I believe it's still got the original lid.
The one I've got now was made by Seattle Pottery Supply. A "Crucible
Kiln". Same design. It also cracked when first fired. It's been
fired a couple hundred times now and the cracks look no worse than
when they first appeared, no worse than the photos you sent me of
the cracks in your kiln's lid. This is without doing any tightening
of the metal bands or taking any steps whatever to arrest the
cracks.
You are of course entitled to stress over this endlessly if you
wish, but I fail to see what actual problem these cracks present,
save for the distress you are putting yourself through over them. As
they would say if it were software, not softbrick, "it's a feature,
not a bug."
Michael McDowell
Whatcom County, WA
Michael@McDowellPottery.com
http://www.McDowellPottery.com
Bruce Freund on tue 11 nov 03
I received my new Olympic 30 Oval. It came packaged as though there was a
Rolls Royce in side waiting to come out. After unpacking it and looking at
it I must say that the quality of this kiln is absolutely wonderful. Then
came the test....firing.
Everything worked out perfectly. Hit a cone 10 in a tightly packed kiln
exactly in the time I expected.
My hat is off to you folks at Olympic !!!
PS: I have the same kiln " FOR SALE".. The one I have for sale is in
exceptional condition. It only goes to cone 8, which is the reason that I
am selling it. Also have an Aim kiln 27 x 36 for sale. Also a remote MIC
controller to control the firing of either or both of the kilns.
bruce freund
dalecochoy on tue 11 nov 03
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Freund" Subject: Olympic Kiln
> I received my new Olympic 30 Oval. > it I must say that the quality of
this kiln is absolutely wonderful. Then
> came the test....firing.
>
> Everything worked out perfectly. Hit a cone 10 in a tightly packed kiln
> exactly in the time I expected.
>
> My hat is off to you folks at Olympic !!!
> bruce freund
Bruce,
After a couple firings let us know if the top cracks on the cone 10 electric
like it seems to on all the gas kilns.!!
Just curious if that is "expected" with their electric also?
Regards,
Dale Cochoy
Hollis Engley on wed 12 nov 03
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael McDowell
To:
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 2:09 AM
Subject: Olympic Kiln
> Dale,
>
> >From the tone of your last post I can't help but think that you are
> still stressing over the cracks that formed in the lid of your new
> Olympic Gas kiln. I have had two such kilns in my potting history.
> Both formed cracks in the lids when first fired. I did nothing about
> either of them. Just kept firing.
>
> > Michael McDowell
> Whatcom County, WA
> Michael@McDowellPottery.com
> http://www.McDowellPottery.com
>
I feel I ought to come to Olympic's defense a bit, too. I bought an Olympic
DD17 downdraft kiln two years ago, took all of those two years to get things
organized enough to actually fire it, and just got it going in the past few
weeks. The people at Olympic, mostly Bob Haugen, have been unfailingly
helpful every time I called (as have Clayarters when I sent out a couple of
HELP! messages) and never gave me the impression I was bothering them.
(Which is exactly the way they should respond when you spend more than
$5,000 on a kiln.)
I've fired the DD17 three times now - once to ^6 and twice to ^10 - and it
has worked exactly as advertised. Even heat and reduction top and bottom,
front and back. With a full pack I got to ^10 last Friday in just over seven
hours, using about 20 cf of natural gas.
I know I've heard some sniping at Olympic here on the list, and I know
nothing at all about the lids on their electric kilns. But my experience
with them has been nothing short of happy and I thought I ought to say that.
Hollis Engley
hengley@cape.com
Hatchville Pottery
Falmouth, Mass., where it's wet and November-like and a tourist (!) actually
approached me at the coffee shop to ask if I'd be open today.
dalecochoy on thu 13 nov 03
Hmmm, interesting posts,(below)
Michael, ( BTW, thanks for the previous help)
I don't stress endlessly and put myself through distress over anything!
but.....
Simply put, My feeling is that when you pay into thousands of dollars for
something that it should not "break" ( or crack) the first time you use it!
Would you accept this trait in ANYTHING else you might buy at even a
fraction of the cost??
The fact that you, and several others I've talked to, say it happened with
theirs is by no means a positive statement about the product ( as Hollis
seems to think?) , it only tells me that the product has been doing it for
years. If it is "Expected" as Haugens state then heck, why not put a note
with directions..." Top will certainly crack with multiple radial cracks
when fired"!!
Hollis, I'm glad you are happy with your kiln. Sounds nice. I wish I were
happy with mine!
But compairing two different types of kilns as a positive defense to their
different product is not quite apples/apples and to nod in agreement that
someone should be satisfied because his cracked 28 years ago and hasn't
collapsed yet is, ...well, hard to follow. I have about 6 notes from people
that have the same kiln ala cracks. Some "accepting" and some not happy,
but I've not had ONE NOTE from someone telling me they have the product and
NO CRACKS after cone 10 firing. Now Hollis, THAT would be a defense to
Olympics product.
Also, If it's brand new in use, and you state publicly that you back your
product, then....replace the top! To ignore it isn't "backing your product"
is it??
While I'm still on the subject I'll reiterate my feelings that Olympics
"instructions" that come with the kiln and on web page are sorely lacking. I
could be specific but won't take up more time.
Regards,
Dale Cochoy, Wild Things Bonsai Studio, Hartville, Ohio
DaleCochoy@Prodigy.Net http://www.WildThingsBonsai.Com
Specializing in power wood carving tools.
Yakimono no Kokoro bonsai pottery of hand-built stoneware
From: "Hollis Engley"
Subject: Re: Olympic Kiln
Date: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 12:59 PM
Subject: Olympic Kiln
I feel I ought to come to Olympic's defense a bit, too. I bought an Olympic
DD17 downdraft kiln two years ago, took all of those two years to get things
organized enough to actually fire it, and just got it going in the past few
weeks. The people at Olympic, mostly Bob Haugen, have been unfailingly
helpful every time I called (as have Clayarters when I sent out a couple of
HELP! messages) and never gave me the impression I was bothering them.
(Which is exactly the way they should respond when you spend more than
$5,000 on a kiln.)
I've fired the DD17 three times now - once to ^6 and twice to ^10 - and it
has worked exactly as advertised. Even heat and reduction top and bottom,
front and back. With a full pack I got to ^10 last Friday in just over seven
hours, using about 20 cf of natural gas.
I know I've heard some sniping at Olympic here on the list, and I know
nothing at all about the lids on their electric kilns. But my experience
with them has been nothing short of happy and I thought I ought to say that.
Hollis Engley
hengley@cape.com
Hatchville Pottery
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael McDowell"
Subject: Olympic Kiln
> Dale,
>
> From the tone of your last post I can't help but think that you are
> still stressing over the cracks that formed in the lid of your new
> Olympic Gas kiln. I have had two such kilns in my potting history.
> Both formed cracks in the lids when first fired. I did nothing about
> either of them. Just kept firing.
>
> My first one was an early Olympic. Made while they were still out
> here in Seattle. That kiln must be 28 years old now.
> You are of course entitled to stress over this endlessly if you
> wish, but I fail to see what actual problem these cracks present,
> save for the distress you are putting yourself through over them. As
> they would say if it were software, not softbrick, "it's a feature,
> not a bug."
>
> Michael McDowell
> Whatcom County, WA
Rob Haugen on thu 13 nov 03
Dale,
If replacing your lid will make you happy, I will do that for you. The new
lid is likely to crack as well. As I have said before the cracking is
normal. I do want you to be satisfied with your kiln and hopefully this
will do it. Please contact me at (800)241-4400 to make arrangements for
your new lid.
Rob Haugen
Olympic Kilns
----- Original Message -----
From: "dalecochoy"
To:
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 11:55 AM
Subject: Re: Olympic Kiln
> Hmmm, interesting posts,(below)
> Michael, ( BTW, thanks for the previous help)
> I don't stress endlessly and put myself through distress over anything!
> but.....
> Simply put, My feeling is that when you pay into thousands of dollars for
> something that it should not "break" ( or crack) the first time you use
it!
> Would you accept this trait in ANYTHING else you might buy at even a
> fraction of the cost??
> The fact that you, and several others I've talked to, say it happened with
> theirs is by no means a positive statement about the product ( as Hollis
> seems to think?) , it only tells me that the product has been doing it for
> years. If it is "Expected" as Haugens state then heck, why not put a note
> with directions..." Top will certainly crack with multiple radial cracks
> when fired"!!
> Hollis, I'm glad you are happy with your kiln. Sounds nice. I wish I were
> happy with mine!
> But compairing two different types of kilns as a positive defense to
their
> different product is not quite apples/apples and to nod in agreement that
> someone should be satisfied because his cracked 28 years ago and hasn't
> collapsed yet is, ...well, hard to follow. I have about 6 notes from
people
> that have the same kiln ala cracks. Some "accepting" and some not happy,
> but I've not had ONE NOTE from someone telling me they have the product
and
> NO CRACKS after cone 10 firing. Now Hollis, THAT would be a defense to
> Olympics product.
> Also, If it's brand new in use, and you state publicly that you back your
> product, then....replace the top! To ignore it isn't "backing your
product"
> is it??
> While I'm still on the subject I'll reiterate my feelings that Olympics
> "instructions" that come with the kiln and on web page are sorely lacking.
I
> could be specific but won't take up more time.
> Regards,
> Dale Cochoy, Wild Things Bonsai Studio, Hartville, Ohio
> DaleCochoy@Prodigy.Net http://www.WildThingsBonsai.Com
> Specializing in power wood carving tools.
> Yakimono no Kokoro bonsai pottery of hand-built stoneware
>
>
> From: "Hollis Engley"
> Subject: Re: Olympic Kiln
> Date: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 12:59 PM
> Subject: Olympic Kiln
>
> I feel I ought to come to Olympic's defense a bit, too. I bought an
Olympic
> DD17 downdraft kiln two years ago, took all of those two years to get
things
> organized enough to actually fire it, and just got it going in the past
few
> weeks. The people at Olympic, mostly Bob Haugen, have been unfailingly
> helpful every time I called (as have Clayarters when I sent out a couple
of
> HELP! messages) and never gave me the impression I was bothering them.
> (Which is exactly the way they should respond when you spend more than
> $5,000 on a kiln.)
> I've fired the DD17 three times now - once to ^6 and twice to ^10 - and it
> has worked exactly as advertised. Even heat and reduction top and bottom,
> front and back. With a full pack I got to ^10 last Friday in just over
seven
> hours, using about 20 cf of natural gas.
> I know I've heard some sniping at Olympic here on the list, and I know
> nothing at all about the lids on their electric kilns. But my experience
> with them has been nothing short of happy and I thought I ought to say
that.
> Hollis Engley
> hengley@cape.com
> Hatchville Pottery
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
> __
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael McDowell"
> Subject: Olympic Kiln
>
>
> > Dale,
> >
> > From the tone of your last post I can't help but think that you are
> > still stressing over the cracks that formed in the lid of your new
> > Olympic Gas kiln. I have had two such kilns in my potting history.
> > Both formed cracks in the lids when first fired. I did nothing about
> > either of them. Just kept firing.
> >
> > My first one was an early Olympic. Made while they were still out
> > here in Seattle. That kiln must be 28 years old now.
> > You are of course entitled to stress over this endlessly if you
> > wish, but I fail to see what actual problem these cracks present,
> > save for the distress you are putting yourself through over them. As
> > they would say if it were software, not softbrick, "it's a feature,
> > not a bug."
> >
> > Michael McDowell
> > Whatcom County, WA
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Hollis Engley on thu 13 nov 03
From: dalecochoy
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 11:55 AM
Subject: Re: Olympic Kiln
> Hmmm, interesting posts,(below)
>
> Hollis, I'm glad you are happy with your kiln. Sounds nice. I wish I were
> happy with mine!
> But compairing two different types of kilns as a positive defense to
their
> different product is not quite apples/apples and to nod in agreement that
> someone should be satisfied because his cracked 28 years ago and hasn't
> collapsed yet is, ...well, hard to follow. I have about 6 notes from
people
> that have the same kiln ala cracks. Some "accepting" and some not happy,
> but I've not had ONE NOTE from someone telling me they have the product
and
> NO CRACKS after cone 10 firing. Now Hollis, THAT would be a defense to
> Olympics product.
Dale: I'm not defending Olympic against your charges that all these lids
have cracked. If it's true, then it does seem like something that should be
addressed in the manufacturing. I'm just trying to provide a little balance.
Right now, at least, I'm happy with the way my Olympic gas kiln is firing
and with the help Olympic has given me when I needed it. As to the
"instructions" provided with the kilns, my experience sounds more or less
like yours. The website is more helpful that way than it was two years ago,
but they appear to still have a distance to go.
Hollis Engley
hengley@cape.com
Hatchville Pottery
Falmouth, Mass.
dalecochoy on fri 14 nov 03
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Haugen"
To:
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 3:11 PM
Subject: Re: Olympic Kiln
> Dale,
> If replacing your lid will make you happy, I will do that for you. The
new
> lid is likely to crack as well. As I have said before the cracking is
> normal. I do want you to be satisfied with your kiln and hopefully this
> will do it. Please contact me at (800)241-4400 to make arrangements for
> your new lid.
>
> Rob Haugen
> Olympic Kilns
Thank you very much Rob..
That's all I ask at this point.
I shall do that and we shall see.
Regards,
Dale Cochoy
Bruce Freund on fri 6 feb 04
I am somewhat desperate to talk with anyone who owns or fires an Olympic
Down draft gas 30 or 40 Cubic foot kiln.
Please respond directly,
standing by,
bruce
Bruce Freund on sun 8 feb 04
Again posting in the hope that I could have some dialogue with someone
familiar with an OLYMPIC 30 or 40cf Gas Down Draft kiln.
Thank you and standing by,
bruce
gwen olson on tue 16 mar 04
Hi! :)
I'm thinking of purchasing an Olympic 2827E electric
kiln. I plan on buying it from a dealer and not the
company directly. Could I please get opinions on the
feasibility of purchasing from a dealer instead of the
company directly and feedback from anyone that has
used this particular kiln or any similar Olympic kiln
(or Olympic kilns in general)?
Thank you so much :)
Gwen
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam
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dalecochoy on wed 17 mar 04
----- Original Message -----
From: "gwen olson"
Subject: Olympic kiln
> I'm thinking of purchasing an Olympic 2827E electric
> kiln. I plan on buying it from a dealer and not the
> company directly. Could I please get opinions on the
> feasibility of purchasing from a dealer instead of the
> company directly and feedback from anyone that has
> used this particular kiln or any similar Olympic kiln
> (or Olympic kilns in general)?
> Gwen
Gwen, I have an Olympic 2831G so there is no comparison, but after getting
the kiln from in-stock at a local dealer, and ordering all furniture,
shelves, 4" extend ring from manufacturer the best thing I can tell you to
check into is the shipping costs.
Find out total cost from dealer ( I'm assuming you would pick it up) and
total cost inc. shipping from manufacturer. As far as what you get it won't
make any difference where you buy it.
Here's how I saved some money. I bought the kiln used ( sorta) but never
fired. Someone ordered it into my dealer who usually doesn't carry Olympic,
then when it came in he decided to get electric instead so turned it down.
One day while buying clay and talking to the owner about wanting a gas kiln
The dealer gave me a great price on a new, unfired kiln.
When I needed to get all the furniture/shelves/ 4" ext. ring I asked the
dealer why I would be better to buy from him than manufacturer? He told me
to wait until he saw what his dealer discount would be from manufacturer
since he rarely bought from them. He told me I'd get 15% off list, so I
ordered the stuff from him, DROP SHIPPED to me by manufacturer and I payed
the cheap trucking bill. Everyone was happy.
Make sure your total price includes getting it to your door!
Regards,
Dale Cochoy
Susan Fox-Hirschmann on wed 17 mar 04
I have 3 olympics and am totally pleased with them!
You can email me off list with particulars, if you like.
They heat slow, cool slow, with 3 " walls...
Good luck
Susan
Annandale, VA
gwen olson on thu 18 mar 04
Hello,
Thanks to everyone who has given advice! :)
I like this kiln because of it's size. The kiln I
have now has a firing chamber that is 17" x 17" square
and 14" deep. It's just way too small. I glaze fire
to a cone 6. I expect it to do larger loads and I
really like the electronic controller. My present
kiln is completely manual except for an analog
pyrometer (no kiln sitter or timer), which means I get
to sit next to it during the end of firings so I can
peep in the hole every few minutes to see if the cones
are bending (yes I have my special glasses-which my
kids especially love to see me in so they can tease me
endlessly :D ).
I really enjoy throwing larger pieces and they just
don't fit into the kiln I have now. I considered a
gas kiln, but my husband nixed that idea right off. I
have also been looking at the L&L e28T. I live in
Kansas if that makes a difference in what my decision
might be. :)
Thank you so much for your time! :)
Gwen
>
> I think before we can give good advice, we need more
> information. Why
> have you decided on this particular kiln? What will
> be your usual
> glaze firing temperature? What are your expectations
> of the kiln?
> With more information we can offer better
> suggestions.
> Bill
>
>
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william schran on thu 18 mar 04
Gwen wrote:>I'm thinking of purchasing an Olympic 2827E electric
kiln.<
I think before we can give good advice, we need more information. Why
have you decided on this particular kiln? What will be your usual
glaze firing temperature? What are your expectations of the kiln?
With more information we can offer better suggestions.
Bill
Mitch Kotula on fri 19 mar 04
Though good to ask the what are you looking for in a
kiln questions, I just want to say that I amusing an
Olympic 10 cubic foot electric and am very pleased
with it, esp after my Skutt experience.
If I fire both the Skutt 7 cubic footer and the
Olympic at the same time, the Skutt is ready to unload
in the morning, but the Olympic is still at over 600
degrees F. Olympic has greater thermal heat holding
and is mor economical to run because of it.
The Bartlett controller on the Olympic has the same
"guts" as the Skutt KM controller, but is much simpler
to use and with more built-in options. To do a
pre-heat on the Skutt I have to use the ramp hold
mode, on the Olympic I hit a option for pre-heat and
it does it, rolling into the cone mode.
To make cone adjustments it is another
straight-forward Olympic option, on the Skutt you have
to use another, non-intuitive option to do so.
Olympic has slow & fast bisque and slow and fast glaze
settings...Skutt has three.
And the Olympic runs consistently well, where my Skutt
comes in cooler than the set bisques and hotter on the
glaze temps. A real dog for me, inspite of the great
customer service from Skutt who has tried to fix my
kiln and that of Mary Ann Diggory, without success and
no offer to replace them.
I also heard from one of the brick reps at NCECA that
the hardness of the firebricks are different btwx the
Skutt and Olympic, but that might not be true.
I have no hesitation to recommend Olympic versus
Skutt, based on my personal experience.
Mitch
=====
Mitch Kotula
Development Plus
PO Box 2076
Hamilton, MT 59840-4076
406-961-5136 (Home)
406-546-6980 (Cell)
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