Anji Henderson on mon 31 jan 00
-- well I went around a couple times to post or not to
post.. Ah, I figured post it may help someone else
Rach darling.. Now I do so understand why not to
explain again.. Whew sure do get your self in messes..
So too bad there is no spray booth or I would have a
wonderful answer for you..
My first thought off the top of my head is go ahead
with all the steps except painting and then mask and
spray.. Soooo since that doesn't work in UR
situation.. Leme think...
I never tried this wet but it could be an interesting
or messy experiment.. But I was told by ummm, well any
way.. You can use wax resist to mask the underglaze..
now I am thinking if you let the UG get tacky almost
dry .. Ummm, to the point where you are afraid of the
slabs being to hard.. Then mask the color before
putting it on the ....
Hey duh.. Color the clay first with the mason stains..
Careful the stains are not real hot for your hands..
Use surgical gloves.. Bev usually has some.. and if
you want the outside white well coat that sucker with
white slip, remember not to saturate your piece.. Or
do it after you get it situated on the mold..
Of course this is assuming that 1. You are doing
straight colors.. ah decoration can be put on later..
2) you are actually using the white clay and 3. I am
assuming that you are draping the clay over the mold
not into the mold..
--- Rachael Rice wrote:
> I was wondering if anyone
> can help me. I started this technique of cutting
> slabs and painting them
> with Amaco Velvet underglazes and then cutting them
> in small pieces and
> piecing them together randomly like you would piece
> a quilt together. I
> then take the large slab I have made from the small
> pieces I have joined
> and drape it over a bowl mold with the painted down
> facing the plaster.
> I then use my small roller to seal the
> back more firmly. I am not sure you can visualize
> this but anyway, my
> question is how do I get the underglaze to dry
> quickly enough so my clay
> still remains
> plastic enough for me to manipulate as I try to join
> the pieces. If I
> use my hair dryer to dry the top underglaze , the
> bottom clay is still
> stiffening up which means it is not as easy to blend
> the pieces
> together. It appears that thick layers of
> underglaze takes a long
> time to dry. I usually like to use my slabs just a
> short while(about 1
> hour) after I
> roll it. The other question is that the under glaze
> does not stay
> sharp.They seem to pick up my fingerprints and
> anything else that comes
> upon it. It smudges so much from my handling and
> also from when I press
> into the plaster mold. It is very sharp and intense
> when I first apply
> the paint but completely loses that clearness after
> being handled. Is
> there anything I can apply over it like hair
> spray or an acrylic medium that will protect it from
> my handling it and
> keep the colors bright like when they are first
> applied.. If I apply
> protective lacquer that I can spray on, when should
> it be applied?. Will
> it burn off in the
> kiln? I use a school kiln and don't want anything on
> my pieces that may
> ruin someone else's in the bisque firing. We fire
> earthenware to cone
> Thanks for the help.
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