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firing paper clay

updated mon 24 jan 00

 

Donna Nicholas on wed 5 jan 00

I'm contemplating working with paper clay to lighten my pieces. I fire
indoors in an electric kiln, but vent it to the outside with an Orton kiln
vent. Would the smoke or whatever comes off the paper clay do damage to
the elements? How about smoke odor and leakage indoors even with the
vent? I am assuming, though have no experience, that the paper in
paperclay goes through a burning stage and that it could be quite stinky
and noxious. Would like to hear from those who've had experience firing
paperclay in electric kilns.
Thanks.
Donna Nicholas

Gail Turton on thu 6 jan 00

Donna,
I have recently started working with porcelain paperclay slurry. It is easy
and fun, with interesting textures and results. I fire in a small paragon
right now, but only a few pieces in a load. There is an exhaust fan going to
the outside, and it seems to get rid of the burnoff odors pretty well. I am
using it in molds, and do get some cracking and even more shrinking, but neat
to experiment with. If you try it, try to use it within a week or it will
start to stink!
Gail

Marian Morris on fri 7 jan 00

We need to come up with an additive that will retard spoilage on this slurry
and also glazes to which I often add CMC. What about oil of wintergreen? Any
ideas out there?


>From: Gail Turton
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: Re: Firing paper clay
>Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 13:58:48 EST
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Donna,
>I have recently started working with porcelain paperclay slurry. It is
>easy
>and fun, with interesting textures and results. I fire in a small paragon
>right now, but only a few pieces in a load. There is an exhaust fan going
>to
>the outside, and it seems to get rid of the burnoff odors pretty well. I
>am
>using it in molds, and do get some cracking and even more shrinking, but
>neat
>to experiment with. If you try it, try to use it within a week or it will
>start to stink!
>Gail

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

Robert Santerre on sat 8 jan 00

I wonder if thimerasol (the active ingredient in a very fine oldtime general
purpose antiseptic, Merthiolate - they had to add red dye and alcohol to the
thimerasol so folks could see it and feel it sting to believe it was working,
couldn't sell a dime of the pure colorless solution) would work. Probably would
work well at 0.01-0.001% (0.01-0.001 gm/100 ml). Wouldn't have any idea where
to buy it today, maybe an organic chem supply house, Aldrich?, Mays?. No idea
about cost either. Has anyone had any experience with this stuff beyond the
usual cuts and scrapes of their capricious youth?

It's a mercury containing compound, so you wouldn't want to be drinking it (an
anti-septic, right? It kills things), but it's safe topically at low
concentrations. Who drinks glazes anyway? The cat/dog? Might actually
improve their health - in very small doses. Scratch that, mercury is a very
stable, cumulative neurotoxin ("mad as a hatter"), don't let the pets drink out
of the glaze bucket.

Bob
rfsanterre@iquest.net

///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Marian Morris wrote:

> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> We need to come up with an additive that will retard spoilage on this slurry
> and also glazes to which I often add CMC. What about oil of wintergreen? Any
> ideas out there?
>
> >From: Gail Turton
> >Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> >To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> >Subject: Re: Firing paper clay
> >Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 13:58:48 EST
> >
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >Donna,
> >I have recently started working with porcelain paperclay slurry. It is
> >easy
> >and fun, with interesting textures and results. I fire in a small paragon
> >right now, but only a few pieces in a load. There is an exhaust fan going
> >to
> >the outside, and it seems to get rid of the burnoff odors pretty well. I
> >am
> >using it in molds, and do get some cracking and even more shrinking, but
> >neat
> >to experiment with. If you try it, try to use it within a week or it will
> >start to stink!
> >Gail
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

Jim Brooks on sat 8 jan 00

if your compunds are spoiling.,.add a teaspoon/tablespoon of clorox......If
that doesnt solve the problem..add more.... .

Renee Janin zurBurg on sat 8 jan 00

When I worked in histology laboratories in both hospitals and medical
schools, thymol crystals were used in some of the solutions to prevent
growth of molds. One or two crystals did the trick for about 500ml and did
not interfere with the binding of the dyes to the tissue on microscopic
slides . It has been quite a while and I'm not sure about the volume but
the thymol was benign. I've wondered about it's possible use in paper clay.
(It is aromatic, medicinal scent.)

Jackie Richards on mon 10 jan 00

I have been playing around with paper clay and really really like it. I had
some problems with discoloration, and smell and threw some bleach in it. It
worked, but there may be chemical ramifications you have to watch for?
Didn't seem to affect it! Jackie

SCOX on tue 11 jan 00

We added wintergreen or peppermint oil to large batches of papier mache to keep
the paper from molding. The same may work for paper clay . Sue Cox the potter
with the broken leg.

Renee Janin zurBurg wrote:

> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> When I worked in histology laboratories in both hospitals and medical
> schools, thymol crystals were used in some of the solutions to prevent
> growth of molds. One or two crystals did the trick for about 500ml and did
> not interfere with the binding of the dyes to the tissue on microscopic
> slides . It has been quite a while and I'm not sure about the volume but
> the thymol was benign. I've wondered about it's possible use in paper clay.
> (It is aromatic, medicinal scent.)

Kent / Pat on tue 11 jan 00

Hi out there in clayland.

I've been following this thread, and for some reason (probably dense gray
matter 8-) ), I haven't asked an important question.

I have used a commercial paper clay product before, and was not happy with
the finished piece. It had to much texture after bisque and really didn't
solve the mending problem.

Somebody (sorry, can't remember who) mentioned toilet paper mixed with their
clay body. Can anyone give me a recipe for making a very small amount of
the stuff? About a cup at a time is more than sufficient.

Thanks
Pat Porter
Rare Earth Pottery
pporter@4dv.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jackie Richards"
To:
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 12:57 PM
Subject: Re: Firing paper clay


> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I have been playing around with paper clay and really really like it. I
had
> some problems with discoloration, and smell and threw some bleach in it.
It
> worked, but there may be chemical ramifications you have to watch for?
> Didn't seem to affect it! Jackie

Cindy Strnad on wed 12 jan 00

Pat,

Just blend up some paper in an old blender with a bit of water. Use this
blended product to reconstitute dry clay. Experiment with the amount of
paper you use until you find an amount you like. Sounds as if maybe your
commercial paper clay had a large amount of paper, and thus the rough fired
texture. Paper clay will be more porous when fired than regular clay.

Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
Custer, SD

miriam on wed 12 jan 00

Hi Pat-
I was the one who posted about the paperclay. I believe I posted the
wrong amount last time, too- sorry. I used one roll of toilet paper to
about 28 lbs of my bone dry clay. I dissolve the paper in hot water,
mix it up, and drain off much of the water when the paper is like soft
clouds. It's still very liquidy. I slake the bone dry clay to a good
slip consistency, mix it into the paper clouds, and add a little bleach
to retard spoilage. It stays fine for at least two months. I lay it out
on plaster to dry enough to wedge. You'll have to figure out smaller
proportions yourself! E mail me directly if you have particular
questions. Mimi in NJ

Kent / Pat wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi out there in clayland.
>
> I've been following this thread, and for some reason (probably dense gray
> matter 8-) ), I haven't asked an important question.
>
> I have used a commercial paper clay product before, and was not happy with
> the finished piece. It had to much texture after bisque and really didn't
> solve the mending problem.
>
> Somebody (sorry, can't remember who) mentioned toilet paper mixed with their
> clay body. Can anyone give me a recipe for making a very small amount of
> the stuff? About a cup at a time is more than sufficient.
>
> Thanks
> Pat Porter
> Rare Earth Pottery
> pporter@4dv.net
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jackie Richards"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 12:57 PM
> Subject: Re: Firing paper clay
>
> > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > I have been playing around with paper clay and really really like it. I
> had
> > some problems with discoloration, and smell and threw some bleach in it.
> It
> > worked, but there may be chemical ramifications you have to watch for?
> > Didn't seem to affect it! Jackie

Heidrun Schmid on thu 13 jan 00

Pat, I use Toilet paper for paper clay and I mix it volumetric: fill the clay
slurry in a straight container, stick in a measure tape that starts with zero,
add between 10 and 20 % paper pulp. I tear the toilet paper into the precut
bits, then pour hot water over it. Mix it with my small hand mixer, pour that
into a sieve and push out as much water as possible, then add to the clay. If
you want to make real small amounts, why not just do this "free hand" like one
cup of clay and 20 pieces of paper? Experiment with it and keep record, then you
can find out what works with you, remember, there are not set "laws" that you
might brake...
Good luck, Heidrun in Bangkok

Kent / Pat wrote:

> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi out there in clayland.
>
> I've been following this thread, and for some reason (probably dense gray
> matter 8-) ), I haven't asked an important question.
>
> I have used a commercial paper clay product before, and was not happy with
> the finished piece. It had to much texture after bisque and really didn't
> solve the mending problem.
>
> Somebody (sorry, can't remember who) mentioned toilet paper mixed with their
> clay body. Can anyone give me a recipe for making a very small amount of
> the stuff? About a cup at a time is more than sufficient.
>
> Thanks
> Pat Porter
> Rare Earth Pottery
> pporter@4dv.net
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jackie Richards"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 12:57 PM
> Subject: Re: Firing paper clay
>
> > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > I have been playing around with paper clay and really really like it. I
> had
> > some problems with discoloration, and smell and threw some bleach in it.
> It
> > worked, but there may be chemical ramifications you have to watch for?
> > Didn't seem to affect it! Jackie

Russel Fouts on thu 13 jan 00

Paper Clayers,

>> I was the one who posted about the paperclay. I believe I posted the
wrong amount last time, too- sorry. I used one roll of toilet paper to
about 28 lbs of my bone dry clay. I dissolve the paper in hot water, mix it
up, and drain off much of the water when the paper is like soft
clouds. It's still very liquidy. I slake the bone dry clay to a good slip
consistency, mix it into the paper clouds, and add a little bleach to retard
spoilage. It stays fine for at least two months. I lay it out on plaster to
dry enough to wedge. You'll have to figure out smaller proportions
yourself! E mail me directly if you have particular questions. <<

If I understand this correctly, it confirms my own findings that paper clay
slip keeps a LOT longer than plastic paper clay. I think the "bugs" don't
like all that water. I used a bit of bleach as well.

Since I find it hard to get into the studio on a really regular basis, this
worked really well for me. Mixed the paper clay up to a very thick, gloppy
slip and used it like that. Brushed, glopped, tossed (whatever it takes)
into slump molds, over hump molds, etc. I thought I had a picture on my web
page of one of these bowls. I'll get it up there soon. Had to completely
re-install my pc just to install the scanner I got for Christmas, not
finished yet. It wants W98 but this luddite prefered to stick with W95.

Loved the idea of cutting a flat edge and storing it dry on shelves like
books. Maybe if the sheets are too big, you could fold them and store them
like linens. ;-)

Ru

Jackie Richards on thu 13 jan 00

I love paper clay, find that it throws beautifully and seems quite strong,
now experimenting with using it for application of additions to
greenware/leather hard and it seems to adapt to that. Also have heard that
it can be used as slip joining to bisque ware but haven't experimented with
it. I used toilet paper from the start, and my first batch was about 5 gal
slop clay to 1 roll of toilet paper. I unwind and soak the paper overnight
in some water (not a lot) and then next day squeeze out the excess water and
add it to my slop clay. I mix it as well as I can either by hand if the clay
is medium soft, or if really sloppy with my drill mixer (still a lot of
effort). Then spread it out on plaster or whatever, let it dry and then
knead it and store. I had a problem with one batch when it smelled, threw in
some clorox and it was fine. Also when you store it you may see some black
streaks (they will wedge out) and I am assuming it is the breakdown of the
cellulose. I just mixed a large batch of porcelain clay (and that is a whole
other story/what a mess/) and added toilet paper to it, have fired a few
pieces and it is great both for throwing and glazing and firing. But I am a
relatively new potter, so what do I know! The best source for information
on paper clay so far is the book "Paper Clay" by Rosette Gault, a paperback
that is not too expensive. It is excellent with technicals and has a lot of
other information I can utilize. Anyway, I really enjoy working with paper
clay and have had no trouble with throwing and storing it either. I add
toilet paper to all my slips to use for joining, and so far so good. I fire
outside in gas kiln so am not aware of any vapors from firing. Hope this
helps. Jackie

SCOX on sun 23 jan 00

We added wintergreen or peppermint oil to large batches of papier mache to keep
the paper from molding. The same may work for paper clay . Sue Cox the potter
with the broken leg.

Renee Janin zurBurg wrote:

> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> When I worked in histology laboratories in both hospitals and medical
> schools, thymol crystals were used in some of the solutions to prevent
> growth of molds. One or two crystals did the trick for about 500ml and did
> not interfere with the binding of the dyes to the tissue on microscopic
> slides . It has been quite a while and I'm not sure about the volume but
> the thymol was benign. I've wondered about it's possible use in paper clay.
> (It is aromatic, medicinal scent.)