Kathy Miller on tue 23 nov 99
I am a first year potter and have recently been interested in colored
clays . Could you please share with me some ways of coloring clays
besides mason stains? thank you , Kathy
***************************
Studio Dust Palace
Palace-studiodust.com :9996
http://www.studiodust.com/
Wishing Well Palace
wishnwell.org: 9997
gburning.mail on wed 24 nov 99
Howdy, all kinds of oxides will do a wide range of coloring clays if mixed
in different amounts. White clays will tend to show more color with less
muddying of the colors by ingredients in the clay itself. Check out the
back of Daniel Rhode's book "Clay and Glazes for the Potter".
Kathy Miller wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I am a first year potter and have recently been interested in colored
> clays . Could you please share with me some ways of coloring clays
> besides mason stains? thank you , Kathy
>
> ***************************
>
> Studio Dust Palace
> Palace-studiodust.com :9996
> http://www.studiodust.com/
>
> Wishing Well Palace
> wishnwell.org: 9997
candace vosburg on wed 24 nov 99
you could try adding underglazes or colored oxides or slips. however this is
a bit more expentive because you are paying to add more clay to make a color
and the colors will never be as bright as they origionally were. be careful
about adding colorents to clay meant for c10 range.most underglazes burn out
at c3 or so.
good luck
candy
>From: Kathy Miller
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: Re: coloring clay
>Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 10:52:58 EST
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I am a first year potter and have recently been interested in colored
>clays . Could you please share with me some ways of coloring clays
>besides mason stains? thank you , Kathy
>
>***************************
>
>
>Studio Dust Palace
> Palace-studiodust.com :9996
> http://www.studiodust.com/
>
> Wishing Well Palace
> wishnwell.org: 9997
______________________________________________________
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Vince Pitelka on wed 24 nov 99
>I am a first year potter and have recently been interested in colored
>clays . Could you please share with me some ways of coloring clays
>besides mason stains? thank you , Kathy
Kathy -
Mason stains work best, because you can color the clay by the visual effect
of the stains, and the color before firing is at least somewhat indicative
of the color after the firing. The cost of the stains is a small price to
pay for these advantages. If you are concerned about cost, I suggest you
work with lamination techniques, where your colored clays are laminated onto
thrown or coil-built vessels, or laminated onto slabs which are then formed
into vessels.
But, you can also color clays with the standard ceramic oxides. The
following are a few possible additions which work equally well in slips or
clays. The following additions are precentages of the dry clay weight. If
you are adding them to a plastic clay body, just weigh the lump you want to
color, multiple by 75% to get approximate dry weight, and figure the
percentage oxide additions from that amount. Needless to say, for the best
color and clarity of design, your base clay should be a fine-grain white clay.
Light green - 1% chrome oxide
Medium green - 2% chrome oxide
Bright green - 5% chrome oxide
Light blue-green - 1% chrome oxide, 1% cobalt carbonate
Dark blue-green - 2% chrome oxide, 3% cobalt carbonate
Light blue - 1% cobalt carbonate
Medium blue - 2% cobalt carbonate
Dark blue - 5% cobalt carbonate
Light brown - 2% red iron oxide
Medium brown - 4% red iron oxide
Dark brown - 7% red iron oxide
Black - 5% cobalt oxide, 8% manganese dioxide, 6% black iron oxide
Tan/gray (ox/reduc.) - 5% rutile.
Keep in mind that the blue clays colored with cobalt carbonate will look
pretty much like white clay before firing. It helps to add a little blue
food-coloring so that you can see what you are working with.
There has been some hysteria about toxicity problems with absorption through
the skin, but I have received word from toxicologists that these ceramic
oxides are all insoluble and are far too coarse to be at all toxic through
the skin. Of course, some of them are toxic when inhaled, so be sure to
wear appropriate dust mask when handling the dry powders.
I usually just put the oxide or mason stain on a clean board, and wedge the
clay on top of it until the colorant is thoroughly mixed in. If you want to
save your wrists, then you should make up or purchase a quantity of your
claybody in dry powdered form, and then mix it up as a thick slurry (keeping
track of the percentage water addition), and then add the colorant to the
slurry and thoroughly mix in with a electric-drill-mixer. Put the resulting
slurry in mounds on a plastic sheet (plastic trash-bag materials) and allow
to stiffen to good working consistency.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Home - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
David Hewitt on thu 25 nov 99
Kathy,
this is what I do. You can see more details of how I work with coloured
clays on my web site. Go to 'Agateware' for examples of finished pots
and to 'Pottery Techniques' / 'How I make Agateware' for further
procedures.
David
Clay Body
Potclays 1149 Porcelain
Colouring Oxides
0.6% Cobalt Oxide - 6g per 1kg of 1149
7% Blythe Strong Red - 70g per 1kg 1149
1% Chrome Oxide - 10g per 1kg 1149
5% B126 Tan Brown - 50g per 1kg 1149
Procedure
Weigh out 1kg of clay and the appropriate amount of oxide or stain as
given above. Put the oxide or stain in a small dish and add a little
water to make into a thin paste. Hollow the 1kg of clay and pour in the
oxide or stain and wedge until a uniform colour has been achieved.
In message , Kathy Miller writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I am a first year potter and have recently been interested in colored
>clays . Could you please share with me some ways of coloring clays
>besides mason stains? thank you , Kathy
>
>***************************
>
>
>Studio Dust Palace
> Palace-studiodust.com :9996
> http://www.studiodust.com/
>
> Wishing Well Palace
> wishnwell.org: 9997
>
--
David Hewitt
David Hewitt Pottery ,
7 Fairfield Road, Caerleon, Newport,
South Wales, NP18 3DQ, UK. Tel:- +44 (0) 1633 420647
FAX:- +44 (0) 870 1617274
Own Web site http://www.dhpot.demon.co.uk
IMC Web site http://digitalfire.com/education/people/hewitt.htm
Bryan on fri 26 nov 99
Here is how I do it.
Put about two gallons water in soldner studio mixer.
Add about 50 #s appropriate premixed dry clay.
Mix.
Ball mill metal oxides/colorants .
Add to mixer. Mix.
rinse ball mill and balls with amount of water needed for batch.
Mix, add clay, mix to right consistency (use penetrometer).
Pug.
Maybe repeat and intermix if I need a large amount (300-450#s) of the
same shade.
Put in bags and seal. Put in Buckets.
Mix next color, which would be the next closest color.
Clean out pug mill and mixer. Repeat starting with white and
progressing through cycle through out the next year.
elizabeth priddy on thu 6 sep 01
if you only need a little ad are concerned about
streaking:
mix a batch of thick slip in the blender
add the correct amount of stain for the weight of clay
blend
dry it up on plaster to a working consistency
if you add just a little more plain slip to the
blender after you pour off the colored slip that will
become your streak free clay, you get slightly lighter
slip suitable for painting on subtle decoration.
For lots of colored clay:
you can blend,in a 5 gallon bucket, your slurry and
then add "velvet underglaze" of the color of your
choice until you get a color slightly lighter than
what you are going to want. With mason stains go by
dry weight. Condition as described above. It throws
beautifully along side plain clay. This is not the
rocket science answer. But it works great.
=====
Elizabeth Priddy
epriddyclay@yahoo.com
www.angelfire.com/nc/clayworkshop
252-504-2622
PO Box 2342
Beaufort, NC 28516
__________________________________________________
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Deborah Thuman on sat 8 sep 07
I would like to color some clay. My teacher warned me that breathing in
mason stain wasn't a real good idea. I had already figured that out -
but the next part was a surprise. She also said that some of the mason
stains shouldn't touch skin.
I'm going to be using ^10 B-mix and I want to throw with two colors.
Those of you who color clay, what do you use? Many thanks.
Deb
http://debthumansblog.blogspot.com/
Rosanne Sloane on sun 9 sep 07
Hello Deb,=0A=0AI have used Mason Stain and Blue Heron stains to color clay=
bodies for different projects raning from Axner's Vince's Low White, Axner=
Max's Raku/Scuplture and Axner's Mac6. I do use a 3M dust respirator and d=
isposable latex gloves. I typically start with 1/8 of a teaspoon teaspoon f=
or the coloring process and work my way up from there in additional 1/8 of =
a teaspoon increments. For high temp firings, I usually use more stain.=0A=
=0AThe Blue Heron stains in the primry colors hold true to their color. If =
you are looking for a "specialty color" Mason stain would be your best bet.=
=0A=0ABlue Heron=0Ahttp://www.axner.com/axner/glazes/blue-heron-stains.php=
=0A=0ARosanne=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Deborah Thuman=
=0ATo: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=0ASent: Saturday, Se=
ptember 8, 2007 7:35:52 PM=0ASubject: Coloring Clay=0A=0A=0AI would like to=
color some clay. My teacher warned me that breathing in=0Amason stain wasn=
't a real good idea. I had already figured that out -=0Abut the next part w=
as a surprise. She also said that some of the mason=0Astains shouldn't touc=
h skin.=0A=0AI'm going to be using ^10 B-mix and I want to throw with two c=
olors.=0A=0AThose of you who color clay, what do you use? Many thanks.=0A=
=0ADeb=0Ahttp://debthumansblog.blogspot.com/=0A=0A_________________________=
_____________________________________________________=0ASend postings to cl=
ayart@lsv.ceramics.org=0A=0AYou may look at the archives for the list or ch=
ange your subscription=0Asettings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/=0A=
=0AModerator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@vis=
i.com=0A=0A=0A =0A___________________________________________________=
_________________________________=0AGot a little couch potato? =0ACheck out=
fun summer activities for kids.=0Ahttp://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=3Doni_=
on_mail&p=3Dsummer+activities+for+kids&cs=3Dbz
Tracey Duivestein on sun 9 sep 07
After going through the archives ("colouring clay") when I wanted to mix =
coloured clay, I found an interesting article by Vince Pitelka. He =
suggests using oxides, and explains that although breathing them may be =
a problem, their insolubility and large particle size make them less =
likely to be absorbed through the skin.
I have used cobalt oxide very successfully - just expensive & makes a =
huge mess of your hands when mixing it in - tried wearing gloves, but =
they stuck to the clay. I just hid my hands for a couple of days & =
hoped I didn't get called to work.
Hope that helps
Tracey Duivestein
Durban, South Africa=20
Chris Campbell on mon 10 sep 07
Please look at this site for clayart
discussion by topic ....
http://www.potters.org/categories.htm
There is a very large section on using Stains.
One post from Vince Pitelka from Sept. 2001 might
answer some of your questions
> " Do we need to wear gloves whenever we handle
> colored clay if it is made with Mason stains?"
> .... There is no reason to wear gloves when handling colored clays,
> whether they are colored with Mason stains or oxides. The particles
> are insoluble, and are far too coarse for any skin absorption. There
> is no danger from that at all. I have been handling clays colored with
> Mason stains and oxides for twenty years. There is no danger that I
> know of, other than the ones we should be aware of with all clays
> and all ceramic materials (primarily inhalation and ingestion).
Best wishes - - Vince
It was also been pointed out in a follow up post, that a good reason for
wearing gloves might have more to do with allergies ....
> I would suggest that you get MSDS sheets for the oxides or stains you
> intend to use. Although inhalation is the most sensitive route of
inhalation
> for metallic oxides, absorption can be a significant route (per
Chemical
> Hazards of the Workplace and NIOSH Pocket Guide to Chemical Hazards).
> In addition, people are frequently allergic to nickel. Cobalt oxide
can also
> produce allergic reactions on skin. Why not use gloves? If they have
enough
> sensitivity for surgery we should be able to use them when working
with clay.
Nevin Murtha
You can find all the information you want about Mason Stains at the
Mason Color works website at
http://www.masoncolor.com/newfiles/ceramicstains.html
My apologies in advance to Vince and Nevin if their opinions on this
have changed in the past six years.
Chris Campbell - in North Carolina
I must confess I seldom wear gloves when working with colored clay, but
always caution
students to wear them just in case they are sensitive or allergic ...
or just hate having
colored goo under their nails.
Chris Campbell Pottery LLC
9417 Koupela Drive
Raleigh NC 27615-2233
Designs in Colored Porcelain
1-800-652-1008
Fax : 919-676-2062
website: www.ccpottery.com
wholesale : www.wholesalecrafts.com
Vince Pitelka on mon 10 sep 07
Deb wrote:
> I would like to color some clay. My teacher warned me that breathing in
> mason stain wasn't a real good idea. I had already figured that out -
> but the next part was a surprise. She also said that some of the mason
> stains shouldn't touch skin.
Let me apolog=FDze =FDn advance for any strange letters that appear =FDn =
th=FDs
answer. I am =FDn Turkey, and cannot use my laptop, and the keyboards ha=
ve
d=FDfferent letters =FDn d=FDfferent places.
I use Mason sta=FDns and ox=FDdes, and there =FDs no r=FDsk of sk=FDn abs=
orpt=FDon
w=FDth e=FDther one of them. Of course you should wear a resp=FDrator wh=
en
m=FDx=FDng e=FDther one. If you have sens=FDt=FDve sk=FDn, wear gloves, =
and =FDf you
have any sores on your hands, wear gloves. Otherw=FDse, the part=FDcles =
are
=FDnsoluble, and pose no threat of absorpt=FDon through the sk=FDn.
- V=FDnce
--=20
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Technological University
vpitelka@dtccom.net
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
Kate Champa on mon 10 sep 07
From a mostly lurker...
What would happen if we mixed the oxides, or the mason stains, into
slips in a blender (see kitchen tools...) and then dried the slip on
plaster and wedged it back into clay? Would this lessen both the
breathing issues and the solubility problem?
Kate Champa, Rhode Island
On Sep 9, 2007, at 5:24 AM, Tracey Duivestein wrote:
> Vince Pitelka ... suggests using oxides to color clay and explains
> that although breathing them may be a problem, their insolubility
> and large particle size make them less likely to be absorbed
> through the skin.
>
> I have used cobalt oxide very successfully - just expensive &
> makes a huge mess of your hands when mixing it in - tried wearing
> gloves, but they stuck to the clay. I just hid my hands for a
> couple of days & hoped I didn't get called to work.
>
> Hope that helps
>
> Tracey Duivestein
>
> Durban, South Africa
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
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>
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>
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