Tamara Reid-McConkey on sat 28 aug 99
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Reposted due to format problems before (unreadable). Too bad e-mail isn=92t
WYSIWYG.
To Dave and the others who wanted this info (sorry I've forgotten your =
names):
The following are some cone 10 glazes that work nicely on Rod's Bod. I'll
send the cone 5/6 recipes in a separate e-mail.
Just some general notes on glaze interaction with Rod's Bod first:
1. Most glazes come out richer and deeper in color on this body.
2. Most glazes (all that I can think of but I don't want to box myself
in here) get a nice iron spotting that I love.
3. Application is a lot of the results (i.e. spraying seems to make
them =22flow=22 more, too thick makes them run, etc.) so I =
strongly
suggest TEST, TEST, and TEST again=21=21=21
4. I have always fired these in a downdraft (Geil) gas kiln to cone 10,
with reduction starting after cone 012, and getting pretty
heavy toward the end (cones 8,9,10). I also try to soak for 1
hour after hitting 10.
These should get you started. Good Luck=21
Tamara
Judy's Cream
Soda Spar 26
Dolomite 30
Whiting 5
EPK 33
Flint 6
Add:
Bentonite 1=25
This glaze comes out cream (surprise=21) semi-mat, with a slight =
yellow/green
cast. Lots of Iron spotting. Nice, earthy glaze.
Toshi Black
Custer Spar 33 lbs. 8 oz.
Whiting 4 lbs. 8 oz.
Dolomite 2 lbs. 8 oz.
EPK 2 lbs. 8 oz.
Flint 8 lbs. 8 oz.
Bentonite 1 lb.
RIO 5 lbs.
Sorry about the formula format here. This is for a garbage can size batch.
You can do the math to get it down to the size you need. A nice gloss black
that breaks brown where thin or over sharp edges.
Long Beach Blue
Whiting 19.49
Custer Spar 63.55
EPK 16.96
Add:
Cobalt Carb .85
Rutile 4.00
This is a nice stony matt surface, sky blue with baby blue flecks. Rod=92s =
Bod
also adds gree flecks (iron spotting). Although this sounds like it might =
be
a =93flashy=94 rutile blue, it=92s not. But it can still grow old real fast=
if you
use it alot.
Spodumene
Custer Spar 15
Spodumene 10
EPK 10
Dolomite 11
Whiting 1
Add:
Zircopax 6
OR
Tix Oxide 3
This is also a creamy semi-mat, but the color is a lot truer (no =
yellow/green
cast) and it breaks rust. Use EITHER the Zircopax OR the Tin Oxide. NOT
BOTH. If you want to lighten the color, just add a little more Zircopax or
tin. Keep notes so if you get the right shade you can duplicate it.
Val Cushing's AA
Cornwall Stone 46
Whiting 34
EPK 20
Add:
for BLUE:
Cobalt Carb 2
for BLUE/GREEN:
Copper Carb 4
Tin Oxide 4
for TAFFY:
Titanium Dioxide 6
RIO 4
These glazes are what is referred to as =93fake ash=94 glazes. A little =
more
predictable thatn real ash glazes, but a similar surface. Because of the
iron in Rod=92s Bod, some real nice things happen. The Blue is a little
intense for me, but others liked it. The Blue/Green is a lot better and is
probably my favorite glaze. Where it=92s thicker, I get a metallic =
marbleing
effect. The Taffy is similar to spodumene in color but different in
=93flow=94-you=92ll see.
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