Dwiggins, Sandra (NCI) on sun 1 aug 99
To all who commented on the shelves, thanks. The shelves aren't new,
unfortunately and kiln wash is already on one side. But to my horror, when I
went into the studio to teach my class last Wednesday, I found that one of the
other "instructors" who was told not to do this, decided to paint kiln wash on
the other side of the shelves too. She then proceeded to fire a kiln load of
her students" work and put other advanced students work in the same load.
Needless to say, we had kiln s---- all over the pieces.
Now, gurus all, how do I prevent the kiln wash from cracking off the two-sided
painted shelves. Is the only solution to take all the kiln wash off with some
abrasive?
Sandy
Sandra Dwiggins
Sandra Dwiggins
Technical Information Specialist
Office of Cancer Information, Communication and Education
National Cancer Institute
National Institutes of Health
e-mail: sdwiggin@exchange.nih.gov
fax:301-480-8105
phone: 301-496-7406
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Mills [SMTP:stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk]
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 1999 5:08 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Subject: Re: shelves
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Sandra,
(In an ideal world) starting with new shelves, fire them one way up
first time 'tother way up second time, and so on. This requires serious
mental organisation or marking the next side up with a pencil when
unloading. What about Batt wash I hear you cry, answer: sieve fine
molochite (calcined china clay) or Alumina Hydrate onto the working side
before loading. After the firing tip back into a bucket ready to sieve
and use again next time.
Phew! time for a large Gin I think!
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Dwiggins, Sandra (NCI) writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Mel, and any others who are listening---
>You say "three point posts are the best", however, our shelves are all slumping
>in the middle, and we use three point posts. What are we doing wrong?
>Sandy
>
>Sandra Dwiggins
>Sandra Dwiggins
>Technical Information Specialist
>Office of Cancer Information, Communication and Education
>National Cancer Institute
>National Institutes of Health
>e-mail: sdwiggin@exchange.nih.gov
>fax:301-480-8105
>phone: 301-496-7406
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: mel jacobson [SMTP:melpots@pclink.com]
>Sent: Monday, July 26, 1999 9:34 AM
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: shelves
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>most potters that i know just stack them vertically.
>one on the other.
>and three point posts are the best.
>always.
>mel/mn
>http://www.pclink.com/melpots
>from minnetonka, minnesota, u.s.a.
>
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
home e-mail: stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk
work e-mail: stevemills@bathpotters.demon.co.uk
own website: http://www.mudslinger.demon.co.uk
BPS website: http://www.bathpotters.demon.co.uk
Tom Wirt on tue 3 aug 99
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> other "instructors" who was told not to do this, decided to paint kiln
wash on
> the other side of the shelves too. She then proceeded to fire a kiln load
of
> her students" work and put other advanced students work in the same load.
> Needless to say, we had kiln s---- all over the pieces.
>
> Now, gurus all, how do I prevent the kiln wash from cracking off the
two-sided
> painted shelves. Is the only solution to take all the kiln wash off with
some
Sandy,
Really strongly suggest getting a grinding stone (like a grill stone and
getting the wash off, then investing in the necessary ITC 100 and SPRAYING
the shelves with that. Both sides and edges. Fire once to bisque temp
before using to stack ware. Then the kiln wash issue will be gone.
It may cost a few bucks, but lets talk about the cost of the lost ware.
Tom Wirt
Dale A. Neese on tue 3 aug 99
Sandy,
The only option, put on your safety glasses, gloves, dust respirator and
remove the kiln wash from both sides with a wire brush attached to a drill.
Do this outside. Get as much off as possible. Then from now on with glasses
and respirator, dust a layer of silica with a fine sieve on the shelves just
before loading. You can make a "frame" to mask off the 1/2 inch area around
the outside edge of the shelf. I use a homemade wooden box to place the
shelf in to catch excess silica when dusting the silica through a sieve.
Since my kiln is located outside of the studio that is where I dust on the
silica behind a wind break. Then after firing scrape the silica off and
reuse it on the flip side of the shelf for the next firing. Kiln wash on
shelves just seems to need so much maintenance. It flakes off, needing to be
reapplied. Builds up needing scraping and reapplying. Then you can't turn
the shelves to help prevent warping.
I understand the difficulties of a multi-instructor teaching situation, plus
the glazing of the beginning students. I have been there, done that. Have
you ever wanted to pull your hair out? There will be the raku glazed piece
that gets loaded with the stoneware firing that will kill a shelf. Sometime
you just need a general kiln firing procedure talk around with students and
teachers before any work is done.
Good luck,
Dale Tex
douglas adams on tue 3 aug 99
Sandra,
Since she was told not to coat the shelves, let her take it off. Just shy of
sand blasting,I don't have an answer for you. Sorry, never had that problem.
Douglas
Jan McQueary on sat 7 aug 99
Why not try washing them off with water and a scrub brush.
I bought some used silicon carbide shelves which came coated with some
used kiln wash of some sort - don't know what. Figured that if it wasn't
vitrified then it might wash off with water, so I just hosed them off and
scrubbed them with a bristle brush - voila! clean as a whistle.
However, I dried them very, very well (try in front of a fan or out in
the sun, or both) before firing them the first time, and fired them
slowly up past the boiling point.
Jan McQueary
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Ray Carlton on sun 8 aug 99
good advice except "DONT USE SILICA" while you are dusting your shelves
you are also dusting your clothes and everything within a 3 foot radius
around you and when you scrape it off after a firing you will be doing the
same thing there is enough free silica around our studios as it is without
adding to it in this way...i have been using 100 mesh calcined alumina or
sometimes called alumina hydrate for 25 years and have found it
excellent...you just shake it over a shelf with a 60 mesh sieve, or, if you
have to tip the shelf (the alumina will fall off ...it is like fine white
sand) just mix it with water and it will brush on ok with a 4 inch brush
and sticks well enough to get it in place......this material is nowhere
near as toxic as Silica...actually i dont think alumina is toxic at
all....anyone??????
cheers
At 14:04 03/08/99 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Sandy,
>
>The only option, put on your safety glasses, gloves, dust respirator and
>remove the kiln wash from both sides with a wire brush attached to a drill.
>Do this outside. Get as much off as possible. Then from now on with glasses
>and respirator, dust a layer of silica with a fine sieve on the shelves just
>before loading. You can make a "frame" to mask off the 1/2 inch area around
>the outside edge of the shelf. I use a homemade wooden box to place the
>shelf in to catch excess silica when dusting the silica through a sieve.
>Since my kiln is located outside of the studio that is where I dust on the
>silica behind a wind break. Then after firing scrape the silica off and
>reuse it on the flip side of the shelf for the next firing. Kiln wash on
>shelves just seems to need so much maintenance. It flakes off, needing to be
>reapplied. Builds up needing scraping and reapplying. Then you can't turn
>the shelves to help prevent warping.
>I understand the difficulties of a multi-instructor teaching situation, plus
>the glazing of the beginning students. I have been there, done that. Have
>you ever wanted to pull your hair out? There will be the raku glazed piece
>that gets loaded with the stoneware firing that will kill a shelf. Sometime
>you just need a general kiln firing procedure talk around with students and
>teachers before any work is done.
>Good luck,
>Dale Tex
>
cheers Ray Carlton
McMahons Creek Victoria Australia
Stephen Mills on mon 9 aug 99
To add to this (which I totally support). I had a call from a customer
who was having sticking problems (pots to shelves), turned out they were
using a silica/kaolin mix in a salt kiln! As most of us are aware salt
glazing depends on the reaction between salt and silica!
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Ray Carlton writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>good advice except "DONT USE SILICA" while you are dusting your shelves
>you are also dusting your clothes and everything within a 3 foot radius
>around you and when you scrape it off after a firing you will be doing the
>same thing there is enough free silica around our studios as it is without
>adding to it in this way...i have been using 100 mesh calcined alumina or
>sometimes called alumina hydrate for 25 years and have found it
>excellent...you just shake it over a shelf with a 60 mesh sieve, or, if you
>have to tip the shelf (the alumina will fall off ...it is like fine white
>sand) just mix it with water and it will brush on ok with a 4 inch brush
>and sticks well enough to get it in place......this material is nowhere
>near as toxic as Silica...actually i dont think alumina is toxic at
>all....anyone??????
>
>cheers
>
>
>
>At 14:04 03/08/99 EDT, you wrote:
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>Sandy,
>>
>>The only option, put on your safety glasses, gloves, dust respirator and
>>remove the kiln wash from both sides with a wire brush attached to a drill.
>>Do this outside. Get as much off as possible. Then from now on with glasses
>>and respirator, dust a layer of silica with a fine sieve on the shelves just
>>before loading. You can make a "frame" to mask off the 1/2 inch area around
>>the outside edge of the shelf. I use a homemade wooden box to place the
>>shelf in to catch excess silica when dusting the silica through a sieve.
>>Since my kiln is located outside of the studio that is where I dust on the
>>silica behind a wind break. Then after firing scrape the silica off and
>>reuse it on the flip side of the shelf for the next firing. Kiln wash on
>>shelves just seems to need so much maintenance. It flakes off, needing to be
>>reapplied. Builds up needing scraping and reapplying. Then you can't turn
>>the shelves to help prevent warping.
>>I understand the difficulties of a multi-instructor teaching situation, plus
>>the glazing of the beginning students. I have been there, done that. Have
>>you ever wanted to pull your hair out? There will be the raku glazed piece
>>that gets loaded with the stoneware firing that will kill a shelf. Sometime
>>you just need a general kiln firing procedure talk around with students and
>>teachers before any work is done.
>>Good luck,
>>Dale Tex
>>
>cheers Ray Carlton
>
>McMahons Creek Victoria Australia
>
>
>
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
home e-mail: stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk
work e-mail: stevemills@bathpotters.demon.co.uk
own website: http://www.mudslinger.demon.co.uk
BPS website: http://www.bathpotters.demon.co.uk
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