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firing lids and bowls together

updated sat 24 jul 99

 

Arnold Howard on fri 16 jul 99

To Clayart members:

When you fire a lid and bowl together so they will fit afterward, what
do you use to keep the lid from sticking to the bowl?

I've heard that dry kiln wash powder sprinkled onto the bowl is easier
to remove than wet kiln wash. What is your opinion?

Thanks,

Arnold Howard
Paragon, Mesquite, Texas

--- David Hendley wrote:

> EVERYONE has, at least at one time or another, a
> problem with
> ill-fitting lids.
> I don't know if there can be an actual slight
> difference in clay
> shrinkage depending on the shape that is thrown.
> It sure seems like it sometimes, and it seems
> logical that the alignment
> of the platlets in the clay would affect the
> shrinkage.
>
> One thing that I know happens is that the pot and/or
> the lid can,
> and usually do, get slightly out-of-round. This can
> happen from
> picking them up or from uneven drying.
> The physics of this slight oval will make the lid
> too big to fit the pot
> and/or the pot too small to fit the lid.
> I always factor in a bit of extra 'play' between the
> measurement
> for the pot and the lid to account for this.
> Hardly anything I make stays round, but I don't
> care; by the time
> it's done its pyro-plastic thing at cone 10 it will
> have moved and
> changed again anyway.
>
> David Hendley
> Maydelle, Texas
> hendley@tyler.net
> http://www.farmpots.com
>

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Cheryl Fisher on sat 17 jul 99

I was taught to was the edge of the lid and the lip of the bowl. On
occasion the glaze would drip and the lids would stip but not often.
--
Cheryl F.
cafish@gte.net
Sarasota, FL

Cheryl Fisher on sat 17 jul 99

Somehow , even with spell check things get messed up. I meant to say wax
not was and stick not stip. Can't win for losing sometimes.

occasion the glaze would drip and the lids would stip but not often.>
--
Cheryl F.
cafish@gte.net
Sarasota, FL

Iveragh Ceramics on sat 17 jul 99

Dear Arnold,
A little calcined alumna mixed with a little water and a
fine line of this put around the gallery or lid with a very small brush has
always worked for me,"careful you do not drip any onto the glaze"or you will
have a disaster.
Bob Hollis
----- Original Message -----
From: Arnold Howard
To:
Sent: 16 July 1999 16:40
Subject: Firing lids and bowls together


> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> To Clayart members:
>
> When you fire a lid and bowl together so they will fit afterward, what
> do you use to keep the lid from sticking to the bowl?
>
> I've heard that dry kiln wash powder sprinkled onto the bowl is easier
> to remove than wet kiln wash. What is your opinion?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Arnold Howard
> Paragon, Mesquite, Texas
>
> --- David Hendley wrote:
>
> > EVERYONE has, at least at one time or another, a
> > problem with
> > ill-fitting lids.
> > I don't know if there can be an actual slight
> > difference in clay
> > shrinkage depending on the shape that is thrown.
> > It sure seems like it sometimes, and it seems
> > logical that the alignment
> > of the platlets in the clay would affect the
> > shrinkage.
> >
> > One thing that I know happens is that the pot and/or
> > the lid can,
> > and usually do, get slightly out-of-round. This can
> > happen from
> > picking them up or from uneven drying.
> > The physics of this slight oval will make the lid
> > too big to fit the pot
> > and/or the pot too small to fit the lid.
> > I always factor in a bit of extra 'play' between the
> > measurement
> > for the pot and the lid to account for this.
> > Hardly anything I make stays round, but I don't
> > care; by the time
> > it's done its pyro-plastic thing at cone 10 it will
> > have moved and
> > changed again anyway.
> >
> > David Hendley
> > Maydelle, Texas
> > hendley@tyler.net
> > http://www.farmpots.com
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>

Ben Shelton on sat 17 jul 99

Well, I've fired at ^10 for my whole 7 years at it and when glazing i use a
resist(hot parrafin) applied to the rims of the pot and lid. I make each so
that this unglazed clay can't be seen except when the lid is removed. This
will work as long as some play is left in the fit and the rim/galley are of
the correct design AND the clay is not too fluxed at your desired firing
temp. An easy test would be to place two unglazed pieces of your clay in a
firing, one on top of the other. If they don't stick you'll be grooooovin'.

Man, How I wish I could be back in TX. I miss being able to find actual
mesquiote braches to cook with. Hickory is pleasant but the mesquite is in
my blood. I've spent too many days reeking of mesquite smoke with my father
cooking for one fundraiser or another for the Lions club chapter he is in.
Man how I miss TX. Next time you make it to dallas say hi to Charlies
guitars for me. Man they had great stuff, Ben



-----Original Message-----
From: Arnold Howard
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Friday, July 16, 1999 11:41 AM
Subject: Firing lids and bowls together


----------------------------Original message----------------------------
To Clayart members:

When you fire a lid and bowl together so they will fit afterward, what
do you use to keep the lid from sticking to the bowl?

I've heard that dry kiln wash powder sprinkled onto the bowl is easier
to remove than wet kiln wash. What is your opinion?

Thanks,

Arnold Howard
Paragon, Mesquite, Texas

--- David Hendley wrote:

> EVERYONE has, at least at one time or another, a
> problem with
> ill-fitting lids.
> I don't know if there can be an actual slight
> difference in clay
> shrinkage depending on the shape that is thrown.
> It sure seems like it sometimes, and it seems
> logical that the alignment
> of the platlets in the clay would affect the
> shrinkage.
>
> One thing that I know happens is that the pot and/or
> the lid can,
> and usually do, get slightly out-of-round. This can
> happen from
> picking them up or from uneven drying.
> The physics of this slight oval will make the lid
> too big to fit the pot
> and/or the pot too small to fit the lid.
> I always factor in a bit of extra 'play' between the
> measurement
> for the pot and the lid to account for this.
> Hardly anything I make stays round, but I don't
> care; by the time
> it's done its pyro-plastic thing at cone 10 it will
> have moved and
> changed again anyway.
>
> David Hendley
> Maydelle, Texas
> hendley@tyler.net
> http://www.farmpots.com
>

_________________________________________________________
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Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

Richard Gralnik on sat 17 jul 99

Arnold,

The trick I was taught is to add some alumina hydrate to some wax. Use it
when you wax the rim of the lid and pot before glazing. Don't use it for
any other
wax on the pot except the footring to keep porcelain from sticking to kilns
shelves.

Richard


At 11:40 AM 7/16/99 -0400, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>To Clayart members:
>
>When you fire a lid and bowl together so they will fit afterward, what
>do you use to keep the lid from sticking to the bowl?
>
>I've heard that dry kiln wash powder sprinkled onto the bowl is easier
>to remove than wet kiln wash. What is your opinion?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Arnold Howard
>Paragon, Mesquite, Texas
>
>--- David Hendley wrote:
>
> > EVERYONE has, at least at one time or another, a
> > problem with
> > ill-fitting lids.
> > I don't know if there can be an actual slight
> > difference in clay
> > shrinkage depending on the shape that is thrown.
> > It sure seems like it sometimes, and it seems
> > logical that the alignment
> > of the platlets in the clay would affect the
> > shrinkage.
> >
> > One thing that I know happens is that the pot and/or
> > the lid can,
> > and usually do, get slightly out-of-round. This can
> > happen from
> > picking them up or from uneven drying.
> > The physics of this slight oval will make the lid
> > too big to fit the pot
> > and/or the pot too small to fit the lid.
> > I always factor in a bit of extra 'play' between the
> > measurement
> > for the pot and the lid to account for this.
> > Hardly anything I make stays round, but I don't
> > care; by the time
> > it's done its pyro-plastic thing at cone 10 it will
> > have moved and
> > changed again anyway.
> >
> > David Hendley
> > Maydelle, Texas
> > hendley@tyler.net
> > http://www.farmpots.com
> >
>
>_________________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

Ray Aldridge on sat 17 jul 99

At 11:40 AM 7/16/99 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>To Clayart members:
>
>When you fire a lid and bowl together so they will fit afterward, what
>do you use to keep the lid from sticking to the bowl?
>

It's generally not necessary to use anything to keep the lid and bowl from
sticking, as long as there's no glaze left where they touch. This might be
different for porcelain fired to the point of collapse, but my porcelain,
which is translucent if thin enough, doesn't glaze to itself. I use hot
wax to resist the bisque before I glaze. I do use a thin wash of kaolin
and alumina hydrate when salt-glazing, painted on lid and gallery.

I don't even use kiln wash on my oxidation shelves anymore, because all my
glazes have enough alumina that they don't run off. I'm just not
interested in temperamental glazes-- my feeling is that if I can't make
good pots without exotic glazes, then I probably can't make good pots.

Ray

amy parker on sun 18 jul 99

Arnold - I don't use anything other than of course to be sure to wax the areas
that will touch in the glaze firing. Lids should not fit so tightly that
you would need kiln wash for the bisque, and you certainly would not want it
anywhere near your glaze!

If lids stick, you can take a wooden spoon or stick & tap soundly all around
the pot, holding it by the lid's handle over a padded surface, until the
lid comes loose. If this fails, a trip to the freezer followed by the stick
trick usually works. If this fails, you have a doorstop.

Amy in Atlanta


At 11:40 AM 7/16/99 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>To Clayart members:
>
>When you fire a lid and bowl together so they will fit afterward, what
>do you use to keep the lid from sticking to the bowl?
>
>I've heard that dry kiln wash powder sprinkled onto the bowl is easier
>to remove than wet kiln wash. What is your opinion?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Arnold Howard
>Paragon, Mesquite, Texas
>
amy parker Lithonia, GA
amyp@sd-software.com

Arnold Howard on sun 18 jul 99

Hi Cheryl,

Do most people leave the glaze off the edge of the lid and lip of the
bowl so they can be fired together?

Sometimes typos can be humorous!

Arnold

> Somehow , even with spell check things get messed
> up. I meant to say wax
> not was and stick not stip. Can't win for losing
> sometimes.
>
> > of the bowl. On
> occasion the glaze would drip and the lids would
> stip but not often.>
> --
> Cheryl F.
> cafish@gte.net
> Sarasota, FL
>

_________________________________________________________
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Lesley Alexander on sun 18 jul 99

One way to fire lids on bowls is to add alumina powder to wax resist. This
also helps on the bottom of porcelain pieces so they don't stick. Is there
something in the archives on this? Separating the pieces with lumps of
alumina paste or such so the inside glaze gets a different atmosphere?
Good luck Lesley

Craig Martell on sun 18 jul 99

Hi:

>When you fire a lid and bowl together so they will fit afterward, what
>do you use to keep the lid from sticking to the bowl?

I add a pinch of alumina oxide to my wax resist and this keeps the lids from
sticking. I mix about 8 fluid oz of wax with about a quarter teaspoon of
alumina. I fire cone 10 R porcelain. In the salt kiln, I use small wads to
separate the lid from it's seat. The wad mix is by parts volume. One scoop
of alumina hydrate to one scoop of china clay. I use six small wads per
lid.

regards, Craig Martell in Oregon

Bob Hanlin on sun 18 jul 99

I use a little alumina hydrate in the wax I use to wax the lids and the rims
or galleries of the bowl. This has released well for me. I don't have a
problem if I do this. One thing to keep in mind is that you continually
need to stir the alumina hydrate/wax mixture to keep the heavy alumina
hydrate from settling.

BobH>
-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Aldridge
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Saturday, July 17, 1999 6:41 PM
Subject: Re: Firing lids and bowls together


----------------------------Original message----------------------------
At 11:40 AM 7/16/99 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>To Clayart members:
>
>When you fire a lid and bowl together so they will fit afterward, what
>do you use to keep the lid from sticking to the bowl?
>

It's generally not necessary to use anything to keep the lid and bowl from
sticking, as long as there's no glaze left where they touch. This might be
different for porcelain fired to the point of collapse, but my porcelain,
which is translucent if thin enough, doesn't glaze to itself. I use hot
wax to resist the bisque before I glaze. I do use a thin wash of kaolin
and alumina hydrate when salt-glazing, painted on lid and gallery.

I don't even use kiln wash on my oxidation shelves anymore, because all my
glazes have enough alumina that they don't run off. I'm just not
interested in temperamental glazes-- my feeling is that if I can't make
good pots without exotic glazes, then I probably can't make good pots.

Ray

Patsy Catsos on mon 19 jul 99

Dear Arnold,

On Paragon kilns, do you recommend changing all the elements at on time or
just replacing the bad one?

I have have a TnF kiln that seems to go through an awful lot of elements. I
usually just change the bad one. I fire to cones 03 and 6.

Thanks for your input. I know this question was discussed several years ago
on clayart, and people had varied opinions on the matter. Thought I'd check
in with you as a Paragon expert.

Patsy

Cheryl Fisher on tue 20 jul 99

We were taught to paint wax (plain wax) on the inside lip of the top and
the lip of the bowl so that the glaze doesn't adhere to the lip and the
edge of the bowl. Then we fired with the lid on. That way the lid and
bowl stayed the same shape. 99% of the time this was successful.
Occasionally someone didn't wax enough of the edge or the glaze ran so
the lid might stick.
--
Cheryl F.
cafish@gte.net
Sarasota, FL

Rafael Velasquez D. on tue 20 jul 99

Hi Arnold:
You can use powder refractory material as alumina instead of glaze at the
place of contact between lid and bowl. The material is suspended in water
and applied with a small brush. I am sure with this method.
Luck
Rafael

Arnold Howard wrote:

> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> To Clayart members:
>
> When you fire a lid and bowl together so they will fit afterward, what
> do you use to keep the lid from sticking to the bowl?
>
> I've heard that dry kiln wash powder sprinkled onto the bowl is easier
> to remove than wet kiln wash. What is your opinion?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Arnold Howard
> Paragon, Mesquite, Texas
>
> --- David Hendley wrote:
>
> > EVERYONE has, at least at one time or another, a
> > problem with
> > ill-fitting lids.
> > I don't know if there can be an actual slight
> > difference in clay
> > shrinkage depending on the shape that is thrown.
> > It sure seems like it sometimes, and it seems
> > logical that the alignment
> > of the platlets in the clay would affect the
> > shrinkage.
> >
> > One thing that I know happens is that the pot and/or
> > the lid can,
> > and usually do, get slightly out-of-round. This can
> > happen from
> > picking them up or from uneven drying.
> > The physics of this slight oval will make the lid
> > too big to fit the pot
> > and/or the pot too small to fit the lid.
> > I always factor in a bit of extra 'play' between the
> > measurement
> > for the pot and the lid to account for this.
> > Hardly anything I make stays round, but I don't
> > care; by the time
> > it's done its pyro-plastic thing at cone 10 it will
> > have moved and
> > changed again anyway.
> >
> > David Hendley
> > Maydelle, Texas
> > hendley@tyler.net
> > http://www.farmpots.com
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

Jacquelyn Lumsden on fri 23 jul 99

You might try using a mixture of regular pottery studio wax with alumina
hydrate mixed in to make it quite thick - a paste. ( Store this is
something air tight like a film canister). Then, using something quite
fine, like a toothpick, put 3 - 5 small drops on the edge so that the lid
will sit on it. Be careful not to let it get on the glaze as the alumina
will dry out the glaze.

Jacquelyn Lumsden
Waterloo, Ont