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chimney thoughts

updated mon 12 jul 99

 

mel jacobson on thu 8 jul 99

a metal stack with a flu liner is, without question, an ideal system for
any kiln.

we just did that with our small train kiln at the farm.
from the ground, we went up about 7 feet, and added a four foot
section of 10 inch pipe with a flu liner sprayed with itc 100.

i have the same system in my kiln here in minnetonka, and would
not change it...........it is 30 years old.
the galvanizing has not melted or been corrupted at all.

nils has recommended flu liners for years, and they come in all
sizes...including
some about 30 inches across that make great raku kilns.

we get ours from `fire brick supply` in st. paul. but, many vendors carry
them.
check with your brick people.

even a stainless stack without liners will burn up in several firings...and
that
is expensive.
nils has recommended well casings...but, man are they heavy...you need
a crane to put them in place.
some of have used galvanized culvert pipe...but in a wood fired kiln, with the
extreme heat up the stack...i do believe they will burn out.
(of course, it is always a matter of time, with any metal pipe burning out.)
flu liners, what a concept.
mel/mn


http://www.pclink.com/melpots
from minnetonka, minnesota, u.s.a.

Richard Aerni on thu 8 jul 99

mel jacobson wrote:

> a metal stack with a flu liner is, without question, an ideal system for
> any kiln....snippage...
> even a stainless stack without liners will burn up in several firings...and
> that
> is expensive.

> mel/mn

Hey Mel,

I just read your post and couldn't let it go by. I think flue liners inside met
_could_ make a nice chimney for a lot of kilns, but I'm not sure about all of th
think in particular, they would tend to make sense for a kiln with a blower syst
kiln using high pressure gas, but I wonder about low pressure (11 inches of wate
column) kilns using natural draft. I'm not speaking as an expert; also, I'm spe
someone who will try flue liners on my next kiln (a small one). What I have rea
I've read plenty that's been incorrect, so correct me if I'm wrong), is that an
hard brick surface for the kiln will tend to enhance the draft of the kiln, as t
surface of the brick heats up. This is how my kiln stack is constructed. I hav
read (and this seems to work on my stack) that a tapered stack will help the dra
Furthermore, I have a six foot section of plain heavy gauge, non-stainless iron
that caps my stack. It is exposed to the weather, wind, the heat of the kiln, a
far has made it through 12 years and over 420 cone 10 firings and is still going
(I must say, I'm surprised at this too!)

So, I'd be interested in a discussion about this subject amongst those of you ou
whose kilns have stacks. What type, how do you fire, how high do you fire, how
work?

Richard Aerni
Bloomfield, NY

with a 70 cubic foot stacking space, cone 10, 11" wc propane fired kiln, with Al
aspirating burners, a 18' high stack, inside of hard brick, outside of soft bric
12'), capped with 6' of iron pipe 12" in diameter.

edwin gould on fri 9 jul 99

I don't understand: what function does the flu liner play when surrounding
a 10 inch stove pipe??
Puzzled. Ed Gould


-- of time, with any metal pipe burning out.)
flu liners, what a concept.
mel/mn

Ingeborg Foco on sun 11 jul 99

Hi Richard,

I have a 30 cuft downdraft car kiln. It's hard brick up to (and slightly
beyond) the burner ports, soft brick to the Kwool arch. Door is Kwool also.
The chimney is hard bricks for about 5 ft. Then I have a stainless steel
metalbestos stack (that is an insulated Pipe) that goes up and thru the roof
for another l2 ft. I have had this sytem since l990 and everything is
honkydory. I live in an area of endless rain and high wind The stack is
secured with pipe to the roof.instead of wire. I fire to^l0 Red. The stack
has not burned up, is not rusted and as far as I feel is a safer way of
venting for my application.then if I continued to go up l2 ft with bricks.
It was necessary to go that high in order to clear an ajacent roof line.
I felt it was important to keep things dry living in the Pacific Northwest
where it rains for a major part of the year. I've never understood how
potters keep their kilns dry when they are out in the open and exposed to the
elements.

Is it sexy....Well, personally chimneys do not turn me on, so for me that is
not an issue. My kiln with it's varieties of materials is really not
beautiful either now that I think of it.However, it works quite well (I have
learned to run it so that there is little difference in temp between top,
middle and bottom) if I don't have gale force winds.

I am not an expert on chimneys, but I thought using high pressure or low
pressure gas makes little difference on the chimney. I do believe to have an
insulated pipe will make it draw better and will extend the life of the pipe.

Regards,

Ingeborg