scottgray on thu 17 jun 99
Could someone please tell me how Ferric Chloride is used when horsehair is =
used
on Raku
Ed Gray
Lynne Berman on sat 17 jul 99
------------------
Thanks to all who provided information on finding and using this. I mixed =
one
part of the radio shack etchant solution with two parts water in a Preval
sprayer. I donned mask and gloves, pulled the burnished pot from the raku
kiln at 1400=B0F, placed it on a piece of wood on a metal banding wheel, =
placed
on some horsehair and then sprayed. The wood gave it a black bottom with
some smoky color near the bottom. The iron made a beautiful shino-like
lustrous color. Having never seen this done, one question is, =22Is this the
usual outcome?=22 The next question: =22When does this stuff stop being =
lethal?
When it is dry? Should I coat the pot with something or is it safe to touch
after it cools?=22
That seems to be all my questions tonight where the wind is howling from the
bay and the egrets are resting.
Lynne Berman on Long Beach Island, NJ
Iveragh Ceramics on sun 18 jul 99
Dear Lynne,
Don't know and don't care much,I just slash it on
undiluted.I never wear masks or gloves for anything,you see I roll my own
cigarettes, always have,sure way to stop one from complaining or worrying
about what is going to kill him/her.It's got to happen one day and if I am
holding a pot I made and it is beautiful "what a way to go".
Regards,
Bob Hollis
----- Original Message -----
From: Lynne Berman
To:
Sent: 17 July 1999 19:36
Subject: Ferric Chloride
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
------------------
Thanks to all who provided information on finding and using this. I mixed
one
part of the radio shack etchant solution with two parts water in a Preval
sprayer. I donned mask and gloves, pulled the burnished pot from the raku
kiln at 14000F, placed it on a piece of wood on a metal banding wheel,
placed
on some horsehair and then sprayed. The wood gave it a black bottom with
some smoky color near the bottom. The iron made a beautiful shino-like
lustrous color. Having never seen this done, one question is, "Is this the
usual outcome?" The next question: "When does this stuff stop being lethal?
When it is dry? Should I coat the pot with something or is it safe to touch
after it cools?"
That seems to be all my questions tonight where the wind is howling from the
bay and the egrets are resting.
Lynne Berman on Long Beach Island, NJ
Carole Steele on sun 18 jul 99
Hi Lynne,
I'm glad you brought this thread up again.
I posted my appreciation for help as well
as my results from this experiment but they
must have gotten lost midstream and never
made the list. Anyway, thanks again to all
who helped. I've had wonderful results using
1 part solution to 5 parts water achieving shino
color. I also made interesting marks by touching
sugar cubes to the hot pot. I did one vase form
upside down, placing it over 3 dried horse apples
(manure for you city folks) which blackened the
inside of the vase for contrast. I use paste wax on
cool pot to finish. I don't know when this process
is not lethal, but am not taking any chances. This
is my experience so far...after I move I will do more.
Carole from Louisiana,but moving to Oxford,
MIss. in August. Are there any Clayarters
there???
csteele@centuryinter.net
James L Bowen on thu 17 feb 00
-------------------
The ferric chloride used in fumong raku pots is purchased in dry form. =
There is
I believe more than one grade available. Be sure to get the correct one to =
avoid
wasting money. Try Cosco at 303-777-3777. They have been supplying potters=
in
the Denver area and should know the difference based on the application.
Cantello Studios on sat 19 feb 00
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU]On Behalf
Of James L Bowen
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 12:38 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Subject: Ferric Chloride
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
-------------------
The ferric chloride used in fumong raku pots is purchased in dry form.
There is
I believe more than one grade available. Be sure to get the correct one to
avoid
wasting money. Try Cosco at 303-777-3777. They have been supplying potters
in
the Denver area and should know the difference based on the application.
Alice Smrcka on tue 22 feb 00
A source for ferric chloride is Radio Shack. They have PCB Etchant Solution-- s
# 276-1535 for 16 oz. bottle. I don't recall the price. I mix a "tea" with a l
concentrated ferric chloride (etchant) and a lot of water and apply it with a
disposable Preval sprayer. Preval sprayer unit is available at Home Depot or mo
home improvement/lumber yards. ferric chloride is very corrosive and will ruin
airbrush or other sprayer that has metal parts. Ferric chloride (etchant) also
holes in clothes! I makes a great browns, oranges and yellows on Raku dpending
the post firing temperature when applied.
Cheers, Alice
Wade Blocker on sun 23 jul 00
Diane,
Iron chloride FeCl3,6H20, is used to to produce lusters. Mixed with
water and sprayed on bisqueware(saggar firing)or glazed surface and fired
to 1300 degrees. It is toxic.Mia in ABQ
Dan Johnston on thu 20 sep 01
I realize that if I fume a raku crackle with ferric chloride this is
dangerous (I wear a resp. and protective clothes). My question is AFTER
the piece is finished and cleaned, is there a danger of leaching or other
harmful potentials which could be contracted from the finished piece?
Dan Johnston
Farmington, MO
danofmo@swbell.net
Hannah Brehmer on wed 20 nov 02
Thanks to Linda Riggs for posting the website about the dangers of using =
ferric chloride. I've decided I don't want my class to be using it =
because of the terrible hazards. (I'll use it at home =
myself........very carefully!) Linda, I didn't mean to embarrass you =
by mentioning your run-in with the stuff, but you have done a real =
service, I think, by letting people know how dangerous it can be. =20
Sincerely,
Hannah Brehmer
South Lake Tahoe, CA=20
Charles and Linda Riggs on thu 21 nov 02
>Linda, I didn't mean to embarrass you by mentioning your run-in with the stuff, but you have >done a real service, I think, by letting people know how dangerous it can be.
Hannah,
We all do something stupid once in a while...and if we can't laugh at ourselves what a grim world this would be. I don't mind being the poster-child for a ferric chloride mishap if it helps to educate us all about it's hazards and the importance of the proper safety equipment.
The stuff really does some wonderful things to the surface of pots. I love the way you can get such a wide range of color from the light yellow gold to deep burgundy. It's something I hope to do a lot of in the future....but this time with the proper vapor mask, gloves and goggles. I wonder where one can purchase a "haz-mat" suit? (just kidding)
Linda
Culling on fri 22 nov 02
I notice no-one has mentioned Iron sulphate as aposs. alternative?! I used
it as a student - not being able to get a lot of chenicals here it;s a
matter of making do - Iron sulphate is a garden trace element the local
hardware has and I used to paint it on pots for pit and raku - lovely rusts
thru to reds and even rainbow finishes though I'd need to get back to
doing it again now to work out exactly how I did what!!! Nowhere near as
dangerous at least in the application although I would guess not totally
safe to breath in when hot!! Anyway - just a thought and possible
alternative - HAVE NOT looked it up on the net so might be a n idea if
interseted for students but was very rewardede when I played with it and
copper sulphte diluted in water too - greys thru to ruby reds.
Steph
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles and Linda Riggs
To:
Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2002 9:00 PM
Subject: Re: Ferric Chloride
> >Linda, I didn't mean to embarrass you by mentioning your run-in with the
stuff, but you have >done a real service, I think, by letting people know
how dangerous it can be.
>
> Hannah,
>
> We all do something stupid once in a while...and if we can't laugh at
ourselves what a grim world this would be. I don't mind being the
poster-child for a ferric chloride mishap if it helps to educate us all
about it's hazards and the importance of the proper safety equipment.
>
> The stuff really does some wonderful things to the surface of pots. I
love the way you can get such a wide range of color from the light yellow
gold to deep burgundy. It's something I hope to do a lot of in the
future....but this time with the proper vapor mask, gloves and goggles. I
wonder where one can purchase a "haz-mat" suit? (just kidding)
>
> Linda
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Eric Suchman on fri 22 nov 02
You can get a hazmat suit at American Science and surplus (dot com)......for
real!
Eric in Oceanside
> From: Charles and Linda Riggs
> Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 08:00:36 -0500
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: Ferric Chloride
>
>> Linda, I didn't mean to embarrass you by mentioning your run-in with the
>> stuff, but you have >done a real service, I think, by letting people know
>> how dangerous it can be.
>
> Hannah,
>
> We all do something stupid once in a while...and if we can't laugh at
> ourselves what a grim world this would be. I don't mind being the
> poster-child for a ferric chloride mishap if it helps to educate us all about
> it's hazards and the importance of the proper safety equipment.
>
> The stuff really does some wonderful things to the surface of pots. I love
> the way you can get such a wide range of color from the light yellow gold to
> deep burgundy. It's something I hope to do a lot of in the future....but
> this time with the proper vapor mask, gloves and goggles. I wonder where one
> can purchase a "haz-mat" suit? (just kidding)
>
> Linda
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
iandol on sat 23 nov 02
Dear Steph Culling,
The beauty of Ferric Chloride is that it is one of the Volatile Salts =
which can be used to give fumed lustre. This can vary from a pale yellow =
to a rich orange copper. It is sometimes used by the Salt/Soda people to =
give an additional brightness to the surface. It can also be made into a =
resinate lustre which give an orange red metallic finish.
Are you going to Ballarat next year?=20
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis
Bruce Girrell on tue 3 dec 02
> {Ferric chloride] really does some wonderful things to the surface of
> pots. I love the way you can get such a wide range of color from
> the light yellow gold to deep burgundy.
Linda,
Do you have a feel for what produces which colors? So far I can say that a
cool pot will produce the light yellows, but I have not yet been able to
determine what gives me a deep brown as opposed to an almost red color. Any
ideas on what controls this?
Bruce Girrell
in snowy northern Michigan
just returned from warm southwest Arizona
Snail Scott on wed 4 dec 02
At 11:12 AM 12/3/02 -0800, you wrote:
>...So far I can say that a
>cool pot will produce the light yellows, but I have not yet been able to
>determine what gives me a deep brown as opposed to an almost red color. Any
>ideas on what controls this?
I've never used ferric chloride pots, but I use ferric
nitrate for bronze patina, which generates a similar
color range. These are the variables, in a nutshell:
Temperature: cool for yellows, warmer for reds.
Quantity/strength of chemical: depth/density of color.
Duration of heat: apply and walk away for bright yellows/reds;
re-heat periodically between applications for tans/browns.
-Snail
James Bledsoe on wed 4 dec 02
i had some ferric chloride liquid, it came with a printed circut kit and was
used for etching copper off the plastic sheets. this was caustic nasty
stuff lots of fumes and funny taste in the mouth be careful
Charles and Linda Riggs on tue 10 dec 02
> Linda,
"Do you have a feel for what produces which colors? So far I can say that a
cool pot will produce the light yellows, but I have not yet been able to
determine what gives me a deep brown as opposed to an almost red color. Any
ideas on what controls this?"
Bruce,
Just got back to clayart after a break. Sorry to be so late to respond.
My limited experience so far seems the be in line with what you've experienced.
Cooler for yellow, hotter for red...and even hotter for dark brown almost black.
I've found that "protecting" parts of the piece being fired with soft brick placed
strategically around the pot or behind a flat piece being fired on end, will
produce the temperature variations that give you a nice rainbow effect.
Linda
Barbara Kobler on wed 26 may 04
I have had sucess with spraying full strength ferric chloride purchased in a bottled in liquid form from an electrical supplier. The hotter the pot when ferric is sprayed, the darker the color. It becomes lighter and more gold as the pot cools. The temperature at which the pot is removed from the kiln is around 1100 f. When applying in this manner (spraying onto a hot pot) it is best to do so outdoors, upwind and wear a respirator. I have no experience mixing dry powdered ferric chloride into the water.
Barbara Kobler http://www.claywoman.net
boobyagga@juno.com on thu 24 nov 05
just a thought i had the other day in the shower...and i dont know the a=
nswer.
can you paint with the ferric chloride. i know the usual application is =
spray on....but i would like to do some specific designes with it...and =
also i just want to know if it has limits. does it eat/destroy your pain=
tbrush? i know you have to wear rubber gloves and respirator and all tha=
t sort of stuff when you are using it...so it cant be alll that good to =
anything it touches. has anyone ever tried this. and by painting on can=
i get a thick enough coat to make it worthwhile. ive never used ferric =
chloride yet...but am planning on buying some soon. just wondering what =
all i can do with it. =
thanks guys. =
jason palmer
oh and happy turkey day!!
Bob Masta on fri 25 nov 05
Jason:
Yes, you can paint ferric chloride directly on bisque ware,
but you can't build up a layer... it will soak right in, because
it is a solution, not a suspension like a glaze. You also
have to be fairly careful, since it is acidic. And of course
it will STAIN anything it touches... permanently!
Just use an old brush and rinse afterward. Eventually the
metal part of the brush will rust (more iron!). You won't
need a respirator if you don't spray it.
It makes a fairly dark stain, if you can control it. I haven't
tried any actual designs, just drips and dribbles. It's very
runny. Because of the acidity, it may bubble up when it
hits your piece, which will make it even harder to control.
My preference is to dribble it onto bisque pieces that have been
glaze dipped (or painted) and dried. The acid foams up and
eats into the soft glaze coating, and runs down the piece.
Because different glaze components are attacked differently
by the acidity, there can be some color/texture separation in the rivulets
that shows up after firing.
My favorite thing is exhausted etchant. Remember, this stuff is
sold for etching copper-clad circuit boards. Eventually, it gets
exhausted and can't hold any more copper (at least, not without
some tweaking). But there is still plenty of iron in it, and it
is still plenty acidic. This can give interesting drips with
threads and streaks of greens and browns. I'm still experimenting
with base glazes to use for this... try your favorite and go from
there. You might get an interesting pot, and you will be reducing
the amount of exhausted etchant that would otherwise enter the toxic
waste handling system, instead of contributing to production of
new ferric chloride. (By whatever tiny amount!)
Where to get exhausted etchant? I make my own circuit boards
so I have my own built-in supply. ;-) (Let me know if you are
near Ann Arbor, MI.) I suspect most users would be glad to
donate their used etchant, since it would be that much less
that they would have to worry about disposing of. If you know any
electronics hobby/experimenter types, check them first. University
labs may be another source, if you can find the right person in the
right lab to talk to. Maybe small electronics companies or
circuit board makers; every city typically has a few.
Best regards,
Bob Masta
potsATdaqartaDOTcom
Bonita Cohn on mon 3 dec 07
Thanks in advance--reply to:
--- Pixie couch wrote:
> Does anyone out there have really hard evidence that
> the ferric chloride used in aluminum foil saggar
firing will
> destroy electric kiln elements?
> Pixie Couch
Bonita Cohn
415.673.0533
http://www.bonitacohn.com
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