Wendy Hampton on sat 1 may 99
Aftosa has them in their catalog
Wendy
Cara on sat 1 may 99
Try Axner's....1-800-843-7057. They are on pg. 152 of the catalogue I have,
but I'm not sure if this is the most recent catalogue.
Cara
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi,
>Does anyone know where I can purchase the hardware used for drawer
>pulls/knobs- The threaded insert piece thing? Or even what it is called?
>Thanks,
>Ruth Jacobson
>skyceramic@aol.com
Cindy Dueringer on tue 4 may 99
In a message dated 4/30/99 8:08:40 AM Central Daylight Time,
SkyCeramic@AOL.COM writes:
<< Hi,
Does anyone know where I can purchase the hardware used for drawer
pulls/knobs- The threaded insert piece thing? Or even what it is called?
Thanks,
Ruth Jacobson
skyceramic@aol.com
>>
You can go to most any hardware supply places and get "drawer pull
inserts".....they come in a variety of sizes in brass and steel. Usually
these are used in wood knobs and screw into the wood, but they work pretty
good in my ceramic knobs. There is an outside thread (OD) and an inside
thread (ID).....make sure when you buy that you know what the ID thread is.
Usually they are machine threads and you can buy screws separately. I try to
find "pan-head" screws, or "round-head" screws so they don't screw too far
into the drawer when tightening. I drill a 1/4" hole in the drawer shank
when sculpting the knobs, and keep using the drill during the drying process
and being able to use a 3/8" insert. It's a snug fit and you may have to do
a bit more drilling after firing. (I make 5/8" shanks (wet clay) between the
knob and drawer) I've gotten pretty good results making holes with a straw
from McDonalds because I can put a long dowel through it and make sure the
hole is aligned straight using a verticle line level if you aren't too handy
with power tools, and the straw doesn't mush around the clay of the little
drawer shanks.
After firing and finishing the knobs, I have just enough room to use either a
good industrial epoxy, or superglue in the gel form to cement the inserts in
the shank holes. be REAL careful not to get any glue on the inside threads.
Then let them cure for a couple days before screwing them. I also buy very
flat plastic washers (some are clear, some are white).....almost paper thin,
(.03-cents apiece at our hardware store) to put between the knob and cabinet
wood to prevent any marring and also acts as a little shock absorber and
helps snug the knob up to the cabinet.
The only major trick is to learn when to stop tightening the knobs. Too
tight and you break the glue, not tight enough and the knob will spin. The
knobs are surprisingly stout as I've never broken a ceramic knob yet...and
mine are just low fired whimsical silliness.
Hope this helps....
KC
| |
|
