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beginner's question - bats

updated mon 12 apr 99

 

Sue Beach on thu 8 apr 99

This is a very basic question, I know, but I hope you will tolerate a
question from a beginner.

How does one get the bats to stay on the wheel?

When I first started throwing, my pots were small and thick and removing
them from the wheel wasn't a problem. As I've gotten a little better, my
pots have grown bigger and my walls thinner, but now they are so fragile, I
can't get the pots off the wheel without trashing them. I have tried to
throw on bats, but can't get the bats to stay put on the wheel.

My wheel is a kickwheel with a solid wooden wheelhead that has multiple
coats of polyurethene on it to make it more waterproof. No pins; no pin
holes. I have tried attaching both plasti-bats and a wooden bat to the
wheel with clay, but they slide off center as soon as I put pressure on the
clay to center the ball.

Can anyone suggest how to attach bats to my wheel short of drilling holes
and setting in pins?

Thanks.

Sue Beach
in central Indiana where it finally feels like it might actually be spring



Sue (Duncan) Beach & Ron Beach
Muncie, IN
sbeach@iquest.net

PLEASE HELP US FIND OUR MISSING DAUGHTER
Details at http://bsuvc.bsu.edu/~00sdbeach/erin.html

County Coordinator: Loudoun Co., VA USGenWeb page:
http://www.rootsweb.com/~valoudou/index.html

List Manager: VALOUDOU-L: Mailing List for Loudoun Co., VA Genealogy & History

Carol Seidman on fri 9 apr 99

Sue: Try making plaster bats molded in pie tins. When they are
sufficiently dry, put some slurry from the throwing water on the wheel
head, press down the plaster bat on top of the slurry and slide the bat
in a circular motion for a few seconds until it grabs. Remove the pot
from the bat when it sets up to avoid rapid drying on the bottom.
Carol Seidman

Michele Hoskin on fri 9 apr 99

Hi Sue.

I never use drilled holes in bats, they just work loose over time. I take
a small lump of wedged clay and centre it on the wheelhead in a wide flat
disc, as if throwing a plate. Then I dig my finger tips in in concentric
circles to make grooves. Finally I use a wooden tool to make a large X
over these rings (more grooves). I gently wet the bottom of the bat with a
sponge and press it down with all my body weight in the CENTRE of the bat.
If you push on the edges it will not be even and the suction may not be
good.

I use this method all the time for large forms as well as small. It sticks
so well that I need a prying tool to remove the bat. Then I redig the
grooves, wet the next bat and start again. If kept wet, it can be used
over and over.

Good luck,
Michele Hoskin
Toronto

-----Original Message-----
From: Sue Beach [SMTP:sbeach@iquest.net]
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 1999 7:50 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Subject: Beginner's Question - Bats

----------------------------Original message----------------------------
This is a very basic question, I know, but I hope you will tolerate a
question from a beginner.

How does one get the bats to stay on the wheel?

When I first started throwing, my pots were small and thick and removing
them from the wheel wasn't a problem. As I've gotten a little better, my
pots have grown bigger and my walls thinner, but now they are so fragile, I
can't get the pots off the wheel without trashing them. I have tried to
throw on bats, but can't get the bats to stay put on the wheel.

My wheel is a kickwheel with a solid wooden wheelhead that has multiple
coats of polyurethene on it to make it more waterproof. No pins; no pin
holes. I have tried attaching both plasti-bats and a wooden bat to the
wheel with clay, but they slide off center as soon as I put pressure on the
clay to center the ball.

Can anyone suggest how to attach bats to my wheel short of drilling holes
and setting in pins?

Thanks.

Sue Beach
in central Indiana where it finally feels like it might actually be spring



Sue (Duncan) Beach & Ron Beach
Muncie, IN
sbeach@iquest.net

PLEASE HELP US FIND OUR MISSING DAUGHTER
Details at http://bsuvc.bsu.edu/~00sdbeach/erin.html

County Coordinator: Loudoun Co., VA USGenWeb page:
http://www.rootsweb.com/~valoudou/index.html

List Manager: VALOUDOU-L: Mailing List for Loudoun Co., VA Genealogy &
History

Mason Batchelder on fri 9 apr 99

Dear Sue,
Take a 2#ball of clay and throw it down on the wheel with a slight skim of a
sponge to dampen the wheel head >flatten this as if you are going to center
it only flatten it to the outer edge ,or slightly less , than the top of the
wheel head.NEXT take a finger and leaving a center flat go 1-2" out from the
center and press your finger into the clay until it touches the bat in a
vetical movement that maked a ring with a disc of clay in the center.Now
spacing them somewhat eyeball evenly make a couple more ditches or groves
with your finger ,leaving a slighty wider one at the outer edge.If these are
not flat level on top use something flat to level the clay with a couple
turns of the wheel,leaving the groves,of course.
Now place the bat damped a bit on top of these clay rings and firmly thump
the center down using the outer edge of the clay ring to align it beforehand
and , firmly but not violently,tap the top of the bat in three evenly thumps
near the parameter .It should be secured by the vacuum enough to throw upon
now.
After throwing your form use a wire taughtly held right under the uunderside
of the bat to slice it off.If you find you messed the wire cut and created an
unlevel surface for the next time you may have to flatten the surface
somewhat but if the wire is held real taught that doesn't become a
problem.If you are using huge bats or throwing a long time with lots of pots
coming off this then I suggest using much more clay than # for the "COOKIE".
I have used this for many years and it works just fine.When you take a break
cover the wheel head with plastic to reserve it, however, after the end of
the day remove it so the wheelhead does not pit.
Beat wishes,
Margaret Arial in Lexington,S.C.(100 miles south of NCECA 2001 site)

Alex Wilson on fri 9 apr 99

Try using clay (for mounting the batts) that is a little bit stickier, and
maybe dampen the surface of your wooden batt before sticking down on the
wheelhead. Really bash it down with clenched fists or a mallet. It also helps
to make concentric rings in the wheelhead clay before sticking down the batt.
You'll need a stick or the butt-end of a turning tool to gently lever the
batt from the wheelhead and make sure to cut off before setting away on your
ware boards.
You can make batts from old oak boards (or any tight wood) rather in the
fashion of medieval wagon wheels.
Good luck,

Alex the Scottish Potter, Nevada, Iowa

Dave Hedblom on fri 9 apr 99

Before you place the bat on the wheel head
throw a ring or two of clay. Press the bat into
the ring of clay. When removing the bat slid a
wire under the bat just like you would in removing
a pot.

Dave Hedblom
It's spring in Minnesota, well at least until tomorrow
when we might see snow flurries.

Frank Cormier on sun 11 apr 99

Sue,
Once you get your clay about 1/4 to 1/2in. thick put some channels or groves
about an inch apart. This will allow for a suction to be created. Also don't
allow much water because this will hinder the process. Compression of the bat
to the clay is essential.
If you could it would be better to put some pins in your wheel head.

Good Luck.
Frank Cormier
Cormier Pottery LLC.

http://www.cormierpottery.com