Tom Wirt on fri 2 apr 99
Subject: A Heavy Duty Wedging Table
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi Michael:
>
>I think wood is fine for a frame for a wedging table if it's constructed
>correctly and can support the weight.
>
Another approach...doable with a skillsaw and lag bolts.....Make 4 legs of a
2x4 and a 2x6 glued and screwed into an "L" shape. Then run a 2x6 skirt
inside the top (glued and lag bolted) and 2x4 3-4" up from the floor.
2x12"s laid on top and screwed down to the skirt. You can lay a piece of
3/4 ply on the lower skirt for a shelf.
For a top surface, if you don't have to dry clay, I have used a material
called Ultraboard. It's a 1/4" thick, very dense tile underlayment. Accept
no substitutes. It's kind of like the old asbestos board that used to be
used for wedging table tops.
I've used mine almost daily for 5 years with no appreciable wear of other
problems. It absorbs just enough moisture to keep clay from sticking, but
doesn't take in enough to dry clay. For dealer info call Eternit at
1-800-233-3155. Ask for dealers carrying Ultraboard. Truly a wonderful
surface.
Tom Wirt
Kenneth J. Nowicki on fri 2 apr 99
Hi Michael:
Welcome to Clayart... and congrats on your new wheel! :-)
I think wood is fine for a frame for a wedging table if it's constructed
correctly and can support the weight.
I made my own wedging table with the help of my brother who is a welder. I
wanted a table large enough so that (a.) I could have a place to wedge red
clay and white clay separately without contaminating the white side with iron
from the red clay... and (b.) To double as a workspace by laying down a
plywood top over the plaster surface.
Mine is approx. 24" deep X 54" wide X 32" tall. The frame is made with 2"
angle iron. I had re-bar "tacked" inside the area where the plaster was to be
poured in a criss-crossed fashion as a precautionary measure to prevent
cracking or shifting later. (Another easier alternative is to use metal
clothes hangers [expanded] and toss them in as you pour the plaster) We built
a 4" wide sheet metal retainer for the circumfrence of the table to help
support the plaster. This was simply pop-riveted on the top frame of angle
iron.
Mid way down the legs, 1 1/2" angle iron was added on the inside sides to
support shelving for storage underneath. For a cut off wire, a piece of square
tubing 57" was added, placing it in the center of the table on the back side
bolted to the frame for easy removal. The top of which was bolted an eyebolt,
to which a turnbuckle was added, and then wire was attached to the turnbuckle,
then the wire fed down at a 45 degree angle to the front edge of the table
where it was connected to another bolted eyebolt attached to the front of the
frame. The advantage of the turnbuckle is that it only takes a few simple
twists now and then to keep your cut-off wire taught and tight, as they do
stretch over time.
All of the metal was cleaned throughly, primed, and painted before the plaster
was poured. We then layed a piece of smooth plexiglass on the floor of the
shop and turned the table upside down on top of it. Then I used "No. 1
Pottery" plaster by U.S. Gypsum Products and followed the mixing directions on
the bag(s). Pouring the plasture mixture into the inverted table, making sure
that the coverage on the surface of the plexiglass was thorough and
uninterupted (make enough plaster mixed ahead of time to do this, as you don't
want to stop mid-way through to mix more) The real advantage of the plexiglass
is twofold... (1.) You get a really nice smooth finish that it beautiful to
work on (2.) If you ever want to hand construct ultra thin handbuilt pieces,
this it the surface to use for the "slam & cut" technique. I also added heavy
duty locking caster wheels to the four legs.
After the plaster had fully cured, the table was turned upright, the cut-off
bar and wire were put back on, shelving was added below. This is a very heavy
table due to it's size and construction, but... it will outlast me and
probably the next 4 generations too. Overbuilt? ...perhaps, but it suits me
fine. It is extremely sturdy and I joke to my wife... "if we ever have an
earthquake, THAT it the table we should get underneath because it's the safest
place in our home!"
If you were interested in this type of table, I'm sure a welding shop (or an
electric sign shop, sheet metal shop, etc.) could help you out with the
framework.
If you have any further questions, feel free to email me. Good luck.
Ken Nowicki
RakuArtist@aol.com
"...Here in Encino, CA where it's cool and partly cloudy today"
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--------------------
In a message dated 04-01-99, Michael Pressman wrote:
>I'm new here and fairly new to pottery.
>But this post is about something I couldn't find in the archives--wedging
>tables. The ones where I take class seem to be wood frames filled with
plaster.
>Is that recommended?... if so, regular all purpose plaster? how thick
should
>it be? do I pour all at once? Or is some other surface preferable?
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