Marty Cugelman & Gail Pasternack on sun 7 feb 99
I have always disliked waxing the bottom of my pots. I've tried paraffin in
a hot plate which smoked terribly in my electric kiln. I found the whole
process dangerous. I have tried wax resist that you brush on only to find
that the brushes were destroyed rapidly and fingermarks always happened even
when being careful. Also, it is difficult to get a nice clean line for the
glaze.
For the last fifteen years I have avoided waxing entirely. I now use tongs
and dip my pot into the glaze and wash off all the bottoms. I know this is
a lot of work but it is because my glaze shows all drips and I've developed
a way to glaze without many drips.
Are there other waxing techniques that I should know about that work well?
Are there new wax resists that work better?
Gail Pasternack
Ballantrae, Ontario
Alex MIller on mon 8 feb 99
Try a water base wax resist. Your brushes will last longer but this
won't help with the finger prints.
alex
mooresville, nc
Marty Cugelman & Gail Pasternack wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I have always disliked waxing the bottom of my pots. I've tried paraffin in
> a hot plate which smoked terribly in my electric kiln. I found the whole
> process dangerous. I have tried wax resist that you brush on only to find
> that the brushes were destroyed rapidly and fingermarks always happened even
> when being careful. Also, it is difficult to get a nice clean line for the
> glaze.
>
> For the last fifteen years I have avoided waxing entirely. I now use tongs
> and dip my pot into the glaze and wash off all the bottoms. I know this is
> a lot of work but it is because my glaze shows all drips and I've developed
> a way to glaze without many drips.
>
> Are there other waxing techniques that I should know about that work well?
> Are there new wax resists that work better?
>
> Gail Pasternack
> Ballantrae, Ontario
Pamela Frank on mon 8 feb 99
Dear Gail,
You might try using elmer's glue to help with your waxing problems. it does
burn off nicely and is cheaper then wax resist. In addition, since you
haven't tried wax resist in awhile, it now comes in a pen that makes it
easier to control.
Happy potting! Pam
Adopt the pace of nature, her secret is patience.
Ralph Waldo Emerson
-----Original Message-----
From: Marty Cugelman & Gail Pasternack
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Sunday, February 07, 1999 11:32 AM
Subject: Re: Help with waxing techniques!
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I have always disliked waxing the bottom of my pots. I've tried paraffin
in
>a hot plate which smoked terribly in my electric kiln. I found the whole
>process dangerous. I have tried wax resist that you brush on only to find
>that the brushes were destroyed rapidly and fingermarks always happened
even
>when being careful. Also, it is difficult to get a nice clean line for the
>glaze.
>
>For the last fifteen years I have avoided waxing entirely. I now use tongs
>and dip my pot into the glaze and wash off all the bottoms. I know this is
>a lot of work but it is because my glaze shows all drips and I've developed
>a way to glaze without many drips.
>
>Are there other waxing techniques that I should know about that work well?
>Are there new wax resists that work better?
>
>Gail Pasternack
>Ballantrae, Ontario
>
Mary Lee on mon 8 feb 99
New to CLAYART and a very novice potter. Love the discussions.
I've used SHIVA liquid masque for watercolors. It has to be peeled off before
firing which is easily done. Also, SHIVA liquid masque brush cleaner works in
a jiffy.
Mary L.
Lyla Kaplan on mon 8 feb 99
i don't know if someone's already posted this, but here is a solution i
never would have thought of on my own:
add your favorite shade of food coloring and apply with a piece of sponge
(using the edge). you get a nice clean line that you can see, and its easy.
lyla
I've tried paraffin
in
>a hot plate which smoked terribly in my electric kiln. I found the whole
>process dangerous. I have tried wax resist that you brush on only to find
>that the brushes were destroyed rapidly and fingermarks always happened
even
>when being careful. Also, it is difficult to get a nice clean line for the
>glaze.
Cathy Harris on mon 8 feb 99
Gail,
Hi neighbour, I'm from Aurora!
I have been using a thin sponge (similar to that of under-pad from carpet).
Wet the sponge and lay flat on a wooden table, or canvas or other table
top that will absorb a little of the water, and hold the sponge in place.
My piece is about 16" square. After you dip your pot, put the foot ring
down on the sponge. Once the glaze is dry enough to touch, push down on
the pot and remove the glaze from the foot ring onto the sponge. Bingo,
bango, bongo - it's done in no time and no waxing is required! It is such
an easy way to remove glaze from the bottom of pots and is always a nice
even ring around the bottom. If I have to have a resist where the lid
might fit in the casserole, I use watered-down rubber latex. It goes on
smooth, peels off when dry. If you want further info, contact me at
c.harris@aci.on.ca
Cathy
----------
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I have always disliked waxing the bottom of my pots. I've tried paraffin
in
> a hot plate which smoked terribly in my electric kiln. I found the whole
> process dangerous. I have tried wax resist that you brush on only to find
> that the brushes were destroyed rapidly and fingermarks always happened
even
> when being careful. Also, it is difficult to get a nice clean line for
the
> glaze.
>
> For the last fifteen years I have avoided waxing entirely. I now use
tongs
> and dip my pot into the glaze and wash off all the bottoms. I know this
is
> a lot of work but it is because my glaze shows all drips and I've
developed
> a way to glaze without many drips.
>
> Are there other waxing techniques that I should know about that work well?
> Are there new wax resists that work better?
>
> Gail Pasternack
> Ballantrae, Ontario
>
Barbara Lewis on mon 8 feb 99
Gail: I find that Standard's wax resist is the best for resisting glaze. I
center the pot on a banding wheel and use one of those foam brushes. I used
to have trouble with drips of glaze falling from a hair brush because the
brush was too loaded with resist. The foam brush holds on to the wax
resist,until you touch it to the pot. Because they are so cheap you can
dispose of them after one session or clean them and use them again. Make
sure you have a towel handy and wipe fingers often. The Standard wax resist
also dries very quickly -- which should prevent some of those finger marks
you're referring to. Good luck, Barbara
11:27 AM 2/7/99 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I have always disliked waxing the bottom of my pots. I've tried paraffin in
>a hot plate which smoked terribly in my electric kiln. I found the whole
>process dangerous. I have tried wax resist that you brush on only to find
>that the brushes were destroyed rapidly and fingermarks always happened even
>when being careful. Also, it is difficult to get a nice clean line for the
>glaze.
>
>For the last fifteen years I have avoided waxing entirely. I now use tongs
>and dip my pot into the glaze and wash off all the bottoms. I know this is
>a lot of work but it is because my glaze shows all drips and I've developed
>a way to glaze without many drips.
>
>Are there other waxing techniques that I should know about that work well?
>Are there new wax resists that work better?
>
>Gail Pasternack
>Ballantrae, Ontario
>
Wellspring Clayworks
5412 Well Spring Road
La Plata, MD 20646
blewis@crosslink.net
Bill Williams on mon 8 feb 99
Now, I have no idea whether or not this works, but I have been meaning to
try it. It was a hint I read in one of the clay magazines ( don't know which
one). It said, if you run out of wax resist and are in a bind you can use
the wax that you use on your no-wax tile floor. Like Mop & Glow. Connie
-----Original Message-----
From: Marty Cugelman & Gail Pasternack
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Sunday, February 07, 1999 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: Help with waxing techniques!
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I have always disliked waxing the bottom of my pots. I've tried paraffin
in
>a hot plate which smoked terribly in my electric kiln. I found the whole
>process dangerous. I have tried wax resist that you brush on only to find
>that the brushes were destroyed rapidly and fingermarks always happened
even
>when being careful. Also, it is difficult to get a nice clean line for the
>glaze.
>
>For the last fifteen years I have avoided waxing entirely. I now use tongs
>and dip my pot into the glaze and wash off all the bottoms. I know this is
>a lot of work but it is because my glaze shows all drips and I've developed
>a way to glaze without many drips.
>
>Are there other waxing techniques that I should know about that work well?
>Are there new wax resists that work better?
>
>Gail Pasternack
>Ballantrae, Ontario
>
Brian Crocker on mon 8 feb 99
The great Japanese Potter that B.Leach worked with, I dont remember his name
[ I should ] never waxed the bases of his pots just cleaned them after when
dry. Depending on the base I use both methods waxing and cleaning.
When waxing I dilute the wax with non fuming Kero, place a "Wetex" sponge in
the electric frypan and keep the wax level only up the top surface of the
sponge no deeper, then add more wax when necessary. Candle wax, Bee's wax
and kero is a good mixture does'nt fume a much as Parafin wax.
Kind regards Brian C.,
At 11:27 AM 7/02/99 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I have always disliked waxing the bottom of my pots. I've tried paraffin in
>a hot plate which smoked terribly in my electric kiln. I found the whole
>process dangerous. I have tried wax resist that you brush on only to find
>that the brushes were destroyed rapidly and fingermarks always happened even
>when being careful. Also, it is difficult to get a nice clean line for the
>glaze.
>
>For the last fifteen years I have avoided waxing entirely. I now use tongs
>and dip my pot into the glaze and wash off all the bottoms. I know this is
>a lot of work but it is because my glaze shows all drips and I've developed
>a way to glaze without many drips.
>
>Are there other waxing techniques that I should know about that work well?
>Are there new wax resists that work better?
>
>Gail Pasternack
>Ballantrae, Ontario
>
>
Brian Crocker
4 Erica Street,
Tea Tree Gully 5091,
South Australia,
Australia. {e.mail} crocker@dove.com.au
"Never loose sight of the bigger picture,"
"Never loose sight of what you set out to achieve." NAB.
" I would like one Life to Learn and another to Use It " A.W.Kester. My Grandpa.
Gayle Bair on mon 8 feb 99
Hi Gail,
I agree, I dislike waxing too. I was intrigued to hear what
method you are using to eliminate most of the glaze drips.
I made some mixing bowls and had a really hard time avoiding drips.
I will share with you my new technique for cleaning bottoms.
I use a small sheet of foam less than 1/2 inch thick that came in
computer software boxes. I wet it squeeze it out lightly and then place it
on a flat surface. As soon as the glaze is dry
enough to handle I place the pot on the damp foam and twist it.
When there is too much glaze on one side of the foam I flip it over.
The pressure I apply determines how high up the foot the glaze
is removed. It works really well, is fast and gives the foot a very
professional look!
I understand people also use rugs but I haven't tried that
yet. I like the foam because it is easy to rinse the glaze out of it..
I love achieving great results using items that are free and not
in overpriced clay catalogs!
Gayle Bair
gaylebair@earthlink.net
Near Boulder CO where it was downright balmy today!
-----Original Message-----
From: Marty Cugelman & Gail Pasternack [SMTP:martcuge@interlog.com]
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 1999 9:27 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Subject: Re: Help with waxing techniques!
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I have always disliked waxing the bottom of my pots. I've tried paraffin in
a hot plate which smoked terribly in my electric kiln. I found the whole
process dangerous. I have tried wax resist that you brush on only to find
that the brushes were destroyed rapidly and fingermarks always happened even
when being careful. Also, it is difficult to get a nice clean line for the
glaze.
For the last fifteen years I have avoided waxing entirely. I now use tongs
and dip my pot into the glaze and wash off all the bottoms. I know this is
a lot of work but it is because my glaze shows all drips and I've developed
a way to glaze without many drips.
Are there other waxing techniques that I should know about that work well?
Are there new wax resists that work better?
Gail Pasternack
Ballantrae, Ontario
NakedClay@aol.com on wed 10 feb 99
Hi Gail!
Have you tried using masking tape to your bisqueware bottoms? Simply apply
the tape to the edges or surfaces you want protected, dip your piece into the
glaze, then carefully peel the tape off, once the glaze is dry. The result: a
crisp, unglazed surface.
If you have concern about removing the tape from the piece, or if your piece
is especially delicate, this technique is not recommended.
Best wishes!
Milton NakedClay@AOL.COM
Theodore Banton on thu 11 feb 99
The mop and Glo idea works. I am a student at a drastically underfunded art
dept. We constantly run out of wax resist and we always use floor wax.
Ted
Jane Rekedal on thu 11 feb 99
If you're satisfied with washing the bottoms of your pots, fine. Why change?
I have often thought that the time spent waxing is equal to the time washing
bottoms, altho I like the control I get with wax. I use wax resist and apply
much of it with small sponges, which I can either wash out or throw away.
I've found that hot water and soap takes out most wax from brushes and sponges
and if that won't do it, mechanic's hand cleaner will.
Jane Rekedal
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