Veena Raghavan on wed 4 nov 98
I wonder if fellow clayarters, who have experience making large
wall pieces, such as plaques and masks, have found a good way to hang
these. I am making a series of masks and plaques in raku and stoneware
clays. They are rather heavy so, although up until now I have usually stuck
a hanger behind clocks, mirrors, tiles and wall pieces with no problems, I
feel these will be too heavy for this method. I do not want to back the
pieces with wood, but would rather find some way to hang them directly as
they are. Some years ago, I saw some large Raku wall pieces that had a
fitting of wire attached with some thick substance that looked like sealing
wax. I do not know the name of the artist, only that the pieces I saw were
very lovely, some depicting cats, and they were large. The ones I saw were
in a gallery in New York called the Potter's Wheel.
If anyone can give me some advice, I would really appreciate it.
Thanks in advance, and thank you all for the continued fascinating
information on Clayart.
Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520@compuserve.com
Barb Jensen on thu 5 nov 98
I prefer a strong mechanical attachment that doesn't rely on adhesives. Is
there a way you could drill a hole in the back and attach a strong wire (I
use electrical #12 because I usually have some around) with a loop for
hanging? (This works well for platters with a substantial footring, for
example). I have also used a simple hole drilled at an angle in the back of
a piece so it can hang directly on a nail in the wall where it is to be
placed. I use a finish nail (one with no head) for hanging flat pieces such
as decorative tile. The hole is drilled at an angle sharper than 45 degrees
about 3/8" or more deep. I don't trust most adhesives to endure through all
conditions (heat, cold, moist, dry, time, weight, etc).
Good luck,
BJ
Vince Pitelka on thu 5 nov 98
> I wonder if fellow clayarters, who have experience making large
>wall pieces, such as plaques and masks, have found a good way to hang
>these.
Veena -
I have used a very simple system which has been successful for things which
are quite heavy, as much as thirty or forty pounds. Purchase a roll of
heavy picture-hanging wire, a roll of masking tape, and a tube of heavy-duty
silicone calk/adhesive. Whatever it is you want to hang, turn it upside
down on an appropriate bed of foam rubber, cloth, or whatever. On the back
side, about one-third of the way down form the top, clean off two attachment
points on the clay or glaze surface (if they need cleaning), just in from
either edge of the piece. If necessary use sandpaper to get a clean,
slightly roughened area. Cut a length of picture-hanging wire long enough
so that you can twist a small loop in each end and still have it long enough
to reach between the two attachment points with a little slack in the wire,
just as when you are hanging a framed picture.
Tear off two four-inch lengths of the masking tape and stick them to the
edge of the table or bench where you can reach them. Squeeze a generous
glob of the silicone on one of the attachment points, and work it into the
surface with a wooden stick. Press one of the looped ends of the wire into
the glob, with the loose end of the wire pointing towards the top center of
the piece. Apply more silicone, and temporarily hold the loop in place with
one of the pieces of masking tape. Repeat with the other attachment point
and loop, and make sure there is a little slack in the wire. Give the
silicone plenty of time to cure before removing the masking tape and hanging
the piece.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Mike Gordon on thu 5 nov 98
Veena,
I've hung some pretty large pieces by taking a round ball of clay,about
the size of a nickel, flatten it and put a pencil size hole in it. Score
it really good on both surfaces and angle them in towards the inside of
the piece.Use very heavy multi strand wire to wire between the clay
attachements.Nail heavt duty mirror hooks into a stud. Should work OK>
Mine withstood the Loma Prieta! Mike
Donn Buchfinck on thu 5 nov 98
something I have used to hang wall plaques is a combination of 5 minute epoxy
and a product called PC7
I use a small eye bolt with a nut on it, about 1 1/2 inches to 2" long
I put 5 minute epoxy on the area that I want the bolt to go,
sealing the area and I tack the eye bolt down with the 5 minute epoxy
then I mix up the pc7 you can use a hairdryer to get it to work better
and I slather it on over the nut and threads of the eye bolt
pc7 is great it has a long work time cleans up with water
and you can dip your finger in water and smooth it down
let sit overnight in a warm place and the clay will break before the epoxy
does
if you want white, pc7 is a dark grey, use pc11
you know how they get that stone to stay on the outside of skyscrapers, they
epoxy it on.
there was an old article in ceramics monthly back in the 80's I think that an
artist had the same questions about how to hang architectual elements that
they were producing
Donn Buchfinck
Dan Tully on thu 5 nov 98
I Raku large turtles and hang them on the wall by inserting a metal scews (
one at each end of the turtle back) and when completely finished I string a
wire between the two screws and it hangs just fine.
Marcia Selsor on fri 6 nov 98
Veena
I hang large raku slabs by attaching clay knobs or nubs to the back and
punching a hole through them. After the firing I run picture wire
through two of them and twist it. They are ready to hang without any
foreign element like epoxy. The slabs are up to 19x 25"
Marcia in Montana
Veena Raghavan wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I wonder if fellow clayarters, who have experience making large
> wall pieces, such as plaques and masks, have found a good way to hang
> these. I am making a series of masks and plaques in raku and stoneware
> clays. They are rather heavy so, although up until now I have usually stuck
> a hanger behind clocks, mirrors, tiles and wall pieces with no problems, I
> feel these will be too heavy for this method. I do not want to back the
> pieces with wood, but would rather find some way to hang them directly as
> they are. Some years ago, I saw some large Raku wall pieces that had a
> fitting of wire attached with some thick substance that looked like sealing
> wax. I do not know the name of the artist, only that the pieces I saw were
> very lovely, some depicting cats, and they were large. The ones I saw were
> in a gallery in New York called the Potter's Wheel.
> If anyone can give me some advice, I would really appreciate it.
> Thanks in advance, and thank you all for the continued fascinating
> information on Clayart.
> Veena
> Veena Raghavan
> 75124.2520@compuserve.com
Judith Enright on fri 6 nov 98
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I wonder if fellow clayarters, who have experience making large
>wall pieces, such as plaques and masks, have found a good way to hang
>these. I am making a series of masks and plaques in raku and stoneware
>clays. They are rather heavy so, although up until now I have usually stuck
>a hanger behind clocks, mirrors, tiles and wall pieces with no problems, I
>feel these will be too heavy for this method. I do not want to back the
>pieces with wood, but would rather find some way to hang them directly as
>they are. Some years ago, I saw some large Raku wall pieces that had a
>fitting of wire attached with some thick substance that looked like sealing
>wax. I do not know the name of the artist, only that the pieces I saw were
>very lovely, some depicting cats, and they were large. The ones I saw were
>in a gallery in New York called the Potter's Wheel.
> If anyone can give me some advice, I would really appreciate it.
>Thanks in advance, and thank you all for the continued fascinating
>information on Clayart.
> Veena
>Veena Raghavan
>75124.2520@compuserve.com
On masks and free-form plaques, I've always incorporated two clay knobs on
the back,pierced with good-sized holes. Then I string wire through the
holes for hanging.
But I've seen what you're talking about -- I believe it's an epoxy
substance. You might try E-6000 epoxy which is unbelievably strong. How
heavy are your pieces?
Judith Enright @ Black Leopard Clayware
email: BLeopard@riochet.net
douglas gray on fri 6 nov 98
If I can't build clay hangers into the structure of the piece, I often use epoxy
and Bondo (yes, that same stuff used for fender and body work on automobiles).
You can find both in Wal-Mart, K-Mart, or hardware stores. Actually the Bondo
has worked very well for me. Have a very heavy slab piece hanging on my wall
right now that has held up for 5-6 years so far. Some of the slabs are close to
thirty pounds
Follow the directions for mixing Bondo (on the side of the can) and apply to the
clay, preferably in an area that is slightly rough to the touch, helps with the
adhesion. The Bondo dries fairly quickly, can be sanded, painted, and is some
what flexible when dried.
I've used Bondo to attach wood to the back of some clay pieces. Then I can
screw eye screws into the wood, string with picture hanging wire, etc.
The expoxy, putty or liquid, works the same way, but I've found that it yellows
over time and it is not as flexible when dry.
doug
============================================================================ =)
Douglas E. Gray, Assistant Professor of Art
P.O. Box 100547
Department of Fine Arts and Mass Communication
Francis Marion University
Florence, South Carolina 29501-0547
dgray@fmarion.edu
843/661-1535
Chris Campbell on fri 6 nov 98
I make raku frames for mirrors and sometimes the finished pieces are very
heavy as I use good quality mirrors.
I use 100% clear silicone from the hardware store that is used as a sealant
for tilework. You apply it from the large tubes with a gun thingee (
technical term - look it up ). It is inexpensive and holds very well.
I use inexpensive wall panelling on the back of my wall pieces as it really
makes handling a lot easier for nervous customers. I attach really heavy duty
hanging hardware onto the board before gluing it to the work and I really feel
confident that everything is going to stay where it belongs.
Just to show how paranoid I am, I also use epoxy glue on the back of the board
so that if one glue is compromised by anything the other one will still hold.
I hate to be responsible for anyone having seven years of bad luck!!!!!
Chris - in Carolina - getting set to Raku and am going to use the leaves in my
reduction cans so I can smell that great autumn perfume.
Joy Holdread on sat 7 nov 98
> -------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > I wonder if fellow clayarters, who have experience making large
> >wall pieces, such as plaques and masks, have found a good way to hang
> >these.
>
I groove the backs of the clay at the leather hard stage. I often mount on
predrilled & wired wood for interior installations or dura rock for exterior
installations. I use silicone adhesive or liq nail. Seal sides with caulk to
prevent water from freezing between board & clay for exterior works. I've
made several units that either hang together or interlock to make one large
work. I make them shapes & sizes that are easy to lift, fit in my truck & can
be shipped easily.
Veena Raghavan on wed 11 nov 98
I would like to thank all the Clayarters, who took and time and
were will to share their expertise and experiences with hanging large
ceramic wall pieces. Thank you Joy Holdread, Chris Campbell, Marcia Selsor,
Douglas Gray, Judith EnrightDonn Buchfinck, Maria Harris, Mike Gordon,
Barbe Jensen, Vince Pitelka, and Dan Tully. I hope I did not leave anyone
out or miss any of the replies, as my mouse ran amock at one point and
everything disappeared and froze!!
Judith, I use E6000 for various things, and although it works most
of the time, there have been occasions when it has failed after some time,
particularly in the case of lotion pumps.
I do try to put clay hangers on to some masks, but sometimes they
are just not appropriate and I am not happy with them for the plaques I
have begun making.
Thank you Vince for your detailed description of your attachment
method; it is really helpful.
Thank you, Douglas for the Bondo/epoxy information.
Chris, I must also try the clear silicone, which is used as a tile
sealant.
Dan, when do you insert the metal screws, after the turles are
fired, or do you fire them into the turles. How does this work? sounds
intriguing.
Barb, I use the method you do for platters and have also used the
hole-for-nail method, but some of my buyers will not accept that and want
some type of hanging device. I have never tried drilling a hole into a
ceramic piece. I think the raku would break, but do you think it would work
for Cone 6 stoneware and porcelain?
Thanks Maria for the tip on the bondable resin that comes in two
parts. I will try and find out what it is and where to get it. Great lead!
Thanks Donn for the PC7 and PC11 information and method.
It is going to take some time for me to try all of these methods,
but I do want to try them all. Thank you again, everyone, and sorry for the
additional questions.
Yours in appreciation, Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520@compuserve.com
Dan Tully on thu 12 nov 98
Ref hanging the turtles. I tried inserting the metal screws into the turtles
before doing the glaze firing but had a bad experience with the screw busting.
I now insert the screw after the glaze firing and since I already have a hole
the metal screw makes its own threads. I have drill holes into glaze fired
pieces with ceramic drill bits..its works just fine (Raku pieces fired at
approximately cone 05). Good Luck. Dan Tully
eden@sover.net on fri 13 nov 98
I am very interested to see all the methods being employed. I favor the
applied nubs with holes for wire if the piece will allow that when being
initially fired. When that is not possible I prefer to apply these in the
glaze firing, on the theory that the glaze bond will be stronger than any
epoxy bond. I had a wedding present that lasted must have been about 15
years on the wall with epoxied-on back then one afternoon that unbearably
hot summer there was a crash.....the heat just did it in.....
Eleanora
.............
Eleanora Eden 802 869-2003
Paradise Hill
Bellows Falls, VT 05101 eden@sover.net
"Can love, through the exercise of art, overcome death?" ---SalmanRushdie
Linda Blossom on fri 13 nov 98
Hello all,
I just returned from a visit to my friend, Peter King's studio and one of =
the
things we spoke about was a system he had for hanging work with mechanical
fasteners rather than using thinset or mastic. He fastened pieces of =
flashing
flat to the backs of pieces, leaving small tabs of the flashing off the =
piece.
These small extensions were used to put screws through into the wall. The
adhesive, holding these pretty heavy pieces to the flashing, was DAP 4000. =
I
would not have trusted Liquid Nails to do what this adhesive was doing.
E6000, isn't that the little tube used for jewelry? I bought some and it =
comes
nowhere close to the DAP 4000. It isn't even in the same category.
Linda Blossom
2366 Slaterville Rd.
Ithaca, NY 14850
6075397912
www.artscape.com
blossom=40lightlink.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Veena Raghavan =3C75124.2520=40compuserve.com=3E
To: CLAYART=40LSV.UKY.EDU =3CCLAYART=40LSV.UKY.EDU=3E
Date: Wednesday, November 11, 1998 9:30 AM
Subject: Hanging large masks and plaques
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I would like to thank all the Clayarters, who took and time and
were will to share their expertise and experiences with hanging large
ceramic wall pieces. Thank you Joy Holdread, Chris Campbell, Marcia =
Selsor,
Douglas Gray, Judith EnrightDonn Buchfinck, Maria Harris, Mike Gordon,
Barbe Jensen, Vince Pitelka, and Dan Tully. I hope I did not leave =
anyone
out or miss any of the replies, as my mouse ran amock at one point and
everything disappeared and froze=21=21
Judith, I use E6000 for various things, and although it works =
most
of the time, there have been occasions when it has failed after some =
time,
particularly in the case of lotion pumps.
I do try to put clay hangers on to some masks, but sometimes =
they
are just not appropriate and I am not happy with them for the plaques I
have begun making.
Thank you Vince for your detailed description of your attachment
method=3B it is really helpful.
Thank you, Douglas for the Bondo/epoxy information.
Chris, I must also try the clear silicone, which is used as a =
tile
sealant.
Dan, when do you insert the metal screws, after the turles are
fired, or do you fire them into the turles. How does this work? sounds
intriguing.
Barb, I use the method you do for platters and have also used =
the
hole-for-nail method, but some of my buyers will not accept that and =
want
some type of hanging device. I have never tried drilling a hole into a
ceramic piece. I think the raku would break, but do you think it would =
work
for Cone 6 stoneware and porcelain?
Thanks Maria for the tip on the bondable resin that comes in two
parts. I will try and find out what it is and where to get it. Great =
lead=21
Thanks Donn for the PC7 and PC11 information and method.
It is going to take some time for me to try all of these =
methods,
but I do want to try them all. Thank you again, everyone, and sorry for =
the
additional questions.
Yours in appreciation, Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520=40compuserve.com
Veena Raghavan on fri 13 nov 98
Dan,
Thanks for the information about your large wall turtles. I have
not tried to drill holes in a glaze fired piece. Now I will feel braver
about doing so.
Thanks for your help
Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520@compuserve.com
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