Matt Alexander on wed 23 dec 98
Hi all -
This my first post - a clayart newbie. I've just been hanging out
for the past few weeks enjoying the info exchange. Learned alot.
So anyway, I'm planning on building a small anagama (hopefully)
before 2000. I'm looking into using a castable for the arch. I've looked in
the archives and found a few recipes, looked on the web and found some
related sites on kiln construction using a castable. But, I haven't found
much info on the long term results (strength, durability, etc...) Anyone
have much experience in this? Any thoughts on a homebrew castable vs
products from APGreen or others?
Hope to meet some of you at the Woodfire confrence in Sept. I
should make it back to the States just in time - I'm in Japan until August.
Happy Holidays to All
Matt
Marcia Selsor on fri 25 dec 98
Homemade castable is quite durable. It can be more so with a coat of ITC
on the inside. I would say it is much less expensive than APGreen
castable. I recommend renting a mortar mixer when you get ready to cast
your arch. Mixing by hand can be very slow.
Marci in Montana
(Paris was great, National Ceramics Museum in Sevres was a high point)
Merry Christmas to all.
Matt Alexander wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi all -
> This my first post - a clayart newbie. I've just been hanging out
> for the past few weeks enjoying the info exchange. Learned alot.
> So anyway, I'm planning on building a small anagama (hopefully)
> before 2000. I'm looking into using a castable for the arch. I've looked in
> the archives and found a few recipes, looked on the web and found some
> related sites on kiln construction using a castable. But, I haven't found
> much info on the long term results (strength, durability, etc...) Anyone
> have much experience in this? Any thoughts on a homebrew castable vs
> products from APGreen or others?
> Hope to meet some of you at the Woodfire confrence in Sept. I
> should make it back to the States just in time - I'm in Japan until August.
> Happy Holidays to All
> Matt
--
Marcia Selsor
mjbmls@imt.net
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/spain99.html
wainford on fri 25 dec 98
Hi Matt,
You wrote.....
> I haven't found
> much info on the long term results (strength, durability, etc...) Anyone
> have much experience in this? Any thoughts on a homebrew castable vs
> products from APGreen or others?
>
---------------
From my experience, PacoCast 30 is very high strength and
durable. I have used it in two salt kilns, and know others
who have as well. Norm Schulman in Penland NC has a salt
kiln made from it, which I think he built sometime in the
early eighties. We spoke two years ago and he reported the
castable still excellent under heavy use. My own experience
with it is the same.
Pacocast 30 is from Northstate pyrophyllite Co in Greensboro,
NC, but is a division of Cedar Heights Clay Co.
I've also used a few of AP Green's castables. Kast-o-lite 30
and 26, and Mizzou. All seem to be very good, but I've not
built a whole kiln with these, but used them instead on things
like the door, and collection box to the chimney, in
combination with brick.
My homemade castable seems to be working well. There are some
hairline cracks, but no problems resulting from them. It's
insulating properties are good too. Have not fired this kiln
much however, so cannot give you long term observations.
I'm not advertising for any of the above, but my personal
preference if budget allows would be the Pacocast 30. Don't
know current pricing, but it costs considerably less than the
comparable AP Green products if I remember correctly.
Sam
David McBeth on fri 4 feb 11
Sorry Mel - it is not a clay question really, but is related. I am
considering building a small soda kiln this summer at my studio in Maine. =
I
know there are many many recipes/formulae for castables by which to
construct such a kiln. I have the books, what I am interested in here is
your tried and true favorites. I am not looking for a list of "this might
works", or "somebody said this worked onces". I am interested in what you
know has worked for you and will work with soda firing. Thanks and stay
warm, or cool, depending on where you live.
Dave
--
David McBeth
Professor of Art
Department of Visual and Theatre Arts
University of Tennessee - Martin
731-881-7416
Marcia Selsor on fri 4 feb 11
David,
I used a similar recipe to this one on several kilns in Montana and =3D
Wyoming in the 70s and 80s.
I used this recipe in the 90s because it was much like the one I had =3D
used earlier. The source for the latter recipe is Ruthanne Tudball's =3D
Soda Glazing book.P. 37
from Jack Doherty as the source. We used this recipe on a kiln at the =3D
University in Billings before I retired. I'd recommend using a =3D
commercial high alumina cartable in the fire box. The corrosion could =3D
have been caused by less than good vaporizing of the soda ash be less =3D
experienced student. Some people recommend lining the trough with high =3D
alumina shelves.
Castable
Fire Clay 2 parts
Sawdust 2 parts (mixture of fine sawdust and wood =3D
chipping)
Grog 2 parts (divided between three grades i.e. dust =3D
to 3/8 " or 5 mm.)
Alumina 1/2 part=3D20
Cement 1/2 part
Marcia Selsor, Professor Emerita,=3D20
Montana State University -Billings
Mike on mon 13 jun 11
Lately, I've been considering making some saggars from hard castable,
but unsure about how durable they might be in the long haul.
Anyone here have experience with this? Any idea of what I should expect,
ie. longevity? Any tips/tricks for a better final product?
Thanks,
Mike
--
Mike
in Taku, Japan
http://karatsupots.com
http://karatsupots.blogspot.com
Workshop in Taku 2012: The Simple Teabowl, May 12 - 18
http://karatsupots.com/workshop2012/2012home.html
http://workshopintaku2012.blogspot.com/
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