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alumina hydrate

updated tue 2 jun 98

 

Betty Burroughs on tue 26 may 98

I wonder if any of you have had a problem with using alumina hydrate in kiln
wash in an electric kiln. A friend of mine is convinced that the a-h she
used in wax resist as well as kiln wash on the shelves destroyed the
elements. When they needed to be replaced they came out in tiny pieces
instead of in one long coil. It took hours of pulling out all the fragments
with needle-nosed pliers. She says she remembers reading on Clayart a while
back that alumina hydrate gave problems in an electric kiln. Can any of you
enlighten me here?? I have just had my shelves sanded and am looking for a
good dependable wash recipe. TIA!


_____________________________
Betty Burroughs
Victoria, BC
Canada

Kim Marie on wed 27 may 98

When I changed the elements in my electric kiln (after years of intensive
firings) I was warned that the old ones would come out in pieces. They get
brittle after long periods of use. I'm pretty ignorant from a chemical
standpoint but I don't think the alumina hydrate was the problem. I was
warned that particles on an element (pieces from an unfortunate pot
explosion for example)can shorten the life of the elements considerably.
kim

At 08:27 AM 5/26/98 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I wonder if any of you have had a problem with using alumina hydrate in kiln
>wash in an electric kiln. A friend of mine is convinced that the a-h she
>used in wax resist as well as kiln wash on the shelves destroyed the
>elements. When they needed to be replaced they came out in tiny pieces
>instead of in one long coil. It took hours of pulling out all the fragments
>with needle-nosed pliers. She says she remembers reading on Clayart a while
>back that alumina hydrate gave problems in an electric kiln. Can any of you
>enlighten me here?? I have just had my shelves sanded and am looking for a
>good dependable wash recipe. TIA!
>
>
>_____________________________
>Betty Burroughs
>Victoria, BC
>Canada
>
>

Laura Conley on sun 31 may 98

Instead of kiln wash one can use grog. Sprinkle it on each shelf as you are
loading (carefully to not get it on the pieces below, perhaps the 1st time do it
in a bisque load) and after the firing it is sufficiently stuck in place on the
shelf that it won't crumble off. You only need to add more is something
sticks. If a pot sticks, it comes off with grog on it. When you load each
time, simply brush off the underside of the shelf so no grog falls on the pots
below. I just got a new kiln and I will use this method. I have worked in
studios that used either method (wash or grog) and I prefer the grog.

Laura Conley
Boulder, CO

Betty Burroughs wrote:

> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I wonder if any of you have had a problem with using alumina hydrate in kiln
> wash in an electric kiln. A friend of mine is convinced that the a-h she
> used in wax resist as well as kiln wash on the shelves destroyed the
> elements. When they needed to be replaced they came out in tiny pieces
> instead of in one long coil. It took hours of pulling out all the fragments
> with needle-nosed pliers. She says she remembers reading on Clayart a while
> back that alumina hydrate gave problems in an electric kiln. Can any of you
> enlighten me here?? I have just had my shelves sanded and am looking for a
> good dependable wash recipe. TIA!
>
> _____________________________
> Betty Burroughs
> Victoria, BC
> Canada

Stephen Mills on mon 1 jun 98

Even better is fine Molochite, some grogs have an iron content which can
be a problem a high temperatures.
Steve
Bath
UK

In message , Laura Conley writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Instead of kiln wash one can use grog. Sprinkle it on each shelf as you are
>loading (carefully to not get it on the pieces below, perhaps the 1st time do i
>in a bisque load) and after the firing it is sufficiently stuck in place on the
>shelf that it won't crumble off. You only need to add more is something
>sticks. If a pot sticks, it comes off with grog on it. When you load each
>time, simply brush off the underside of the shelf so no grog falls on the pots
>below. I just got a new kiln and I will use this method. I have worked in
>studios that used either method (wash or grog) and I prefer the grog.
>
>Laura Conley
>Boulder, CO
>
>Betty Burroughs wrote:
>
>> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> I wonder if any of you have had a problem with using alumina hydrate in kiln
>> wash in an electric kiln. A friend of mine is convinced that the a-h she
>> used in wax resist as well as kiln wash on the shelves destroyed the
>> elements. When they needed to be replaced they came out in tiny pieces
>> instead of in one long coil. It took hours of pulling out all the fragments
>> with needle-nosed pliers. She says she remembers reading on Clayart a while
>> back that alumina hydrate gave problems in an electric kiln. Can any of you
>> enlighten me here?? I have just had my shelves sanded and am looking for a
>> good dependable wash recipe. TIA!
>>
>> _____________________________
>> Betty Burroughs
>> Victoria, BC
>> Canada
>

--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
home e-mail: stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk
work e-mail: stevemills@bathpotters.demon.co.uk
own website: http://www.mudslinger.demon.co.uk
BPS website: http://www.bathpotters.demon.co.uk