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mixing mason stains

updated sun 24 may 98

 

Kim Marie on thu 21 may 98

is it possible to mix mason stains with a white stoneware body or porcelain
clay to get a colored body? If so do you mix the stain in, in its powdered
form? How do you determine how much to mix in?
Any suggestions appreciated.
kim

Tyler Hannigan on fri 22 may 98

Kim Marie wrote:

> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> is it possible to mix mason stains with a white stoneware body or porcelain
> clay to get a colored body? If so do you mix the stain in, in its powdered
> form? How do you determine how much to mix in?
> Any suggestions appreciated.
> kim

Sure Kim,You can add Mason Stains or Oxides to color stoneware or porcelain.
Some factors to know.
If you have mixed glaze this process is similar only the percentages of
additive are much higher, thus more costly. Significantly so in large batches.
For best results work in a dry /powder state, sift, mix thoroughly, soak, dry
to wedging consistency and finally wedge the heck out of it. (unless you like a
streaky effect).
Caution: observe sensible safety procedures while stirring the powders and
handling "chemically enriched" clay.
An easy testing procedure is to weigh out 100 gr. units of your powdered clay
and put in zip lock plastic bags. Code the bags and add various measured
amounts of stain. Add a little water and message thoroughly in the bag. Tear
open the bag and dry enough to knead and fold the sample into itself numerous
times. Form this wad into a tile sample.
Remember to inscribe your code.
Try mixing (marbling) part of your sample with the base clay or other samples.
The surface may become blurred from handling and require scrapping when dry.
Or, items like beads can be run through a rock tumbler after the firing.
--
Tyler Hannigan
Silverhawk Craft Realm
http://www.silverhawk.com/crafts
http://www.silverhawk.com/tssa/cm/thann/

Adam J Bessell on fri 22 may 98

Hi Kim I'm Adam, I'm a Senior at Alfred University.
Val Cushings book tills a great about test clays and is a good investment
if you need info. In glaze calculation/raw materials class I had to do a
line test of colorents. That would probably be the best bet so you don't
destroy a larg bach of clay. The greds at Alfred use stains continuely
but for scalpture. I don't know much about the functional safety of it.
My experience with colorents in clay bodies is that the % of colorents is
higher then in glazes. Hope this helps. good luck!
On Thu, 21 May 1998 07:11:11 EDT Kim Marie
writes:
>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
>is it possible to mix mason stains with a white stoneware body or
>porcelain
>clay to get a colored body? If so do you mix the stain in, in its
>powdered
>form? How do you determine how much to mix in?
>Any suggestions appreciated.
>kim
>

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Patti M. Fox on fri 22 may 98

Kim--
I have no experience with high-fire porcelain, but was able to come up
with a beautiful coco brown cone 6 porcelain casting slip by mixing
water with the stain, then that with standard slip. Was used to pour a
porcelain doll.
Patti

Kim Marie wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> is it possible to mix mason stains with a white stoneware body or porcelain
> clay to get a colored body? If so do you mix the stain in, in its powdered
> form? How do you determine how much to mix in?
> Any suggestions appreciated.
> kim

Vince Pitelka on fri 22 may 98

>is it possible to mix mason stains with a white stoneware body or porcelain
>clay to get a colored body? If so do you mix the stain in, in its powdered
>form? How do you determine how much to mix in?

Kim -
That is in fact how one gets colored clays. Some people use ceramic oxides
(do not use manganese or chrome oxides in clays unless you plan to handle
them with rubber gloves). Others use mason stains, in which case you just
need to experiment with amounts. Highfiring intensifies the colors, so it
doesn't take much - usually anywhere from 3% to 15% of dry clay weight.
Some people wedge in the dry colorants (this is what I do), and some mix the
colorants with water to form a thick slurry, and wedge that into the clay.
But my favorite method is to mix the clay as a thick slurry, blend the
colorants into the slurry, and then stiffen to workable consistency. This
gives you the most plastic clay, and that is a critical consideration with
all colored clays, especially porcelain. A porcelain body is already less
plastic than stoneware bodies, and when you add more non-plastics, in the
form of mason stains, you can end up with a really troublesome body. For
this reason, most people doing high-fired colored clay work use modified
porcelain bodies, containing a higher percentage of clays than a normal
porcelain body, especially the more plastic clays like secondary kaolins
(such as Tile-6), ball clays and light-firing stoneware clays. Good luck -
- Vince

Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166

judy motzkin on sat 23 may 98




Yes you can mix mason stains into a white clay. Read Paulus
Berensohn"s "Finding One's WAy with Clay". I think it may have
recently been reprinted.
If you take a ball of your clay, make a well in the center with your
thumb. then put a measured amount of stain (a teaspoon to start) in
the hole. Add water and mix into a paste. Then wedge it all
together. This is a good way to quickly test small amounts.
Judy in Cambridge where the spring is glorious.


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Gracedart on sat 23 may 98

as far as saftey is concerned i would add to use laytex gloves ( if you're not
allergic to laytex ! ) to prevent absorbtion of the stains...at a workshop on
colored clay the green ( what metal !? ) was particularly harmful and we all
mixed the clay with gloves on ...
grace in CT where the humidity is at near 0% and the sun is shining !