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water quality in glazes...

updated tue 31 mar 98

 

Talbott on mon 30 mar 98

Bob...
All that I can say about hard water is that I would try to avoid
water that seems unpleasant to the taste as far as sulfur and iron content.
(You know.. The kind of water that makes you feel less clean than before
you took the shower) Rain water unfortunately can be acidic (acid rain)...
Michael Tichane (sp?) in his book: "Reds Reds Copper Reds" did address
this issue I believe but I can't put my hand on the book. One could fairly
easily conduct an experiment by making a batch of glaze using ordinary tap
water and another glaze batch using distilled water (not spring water)..
Glaze similar items and place them in similar locations in the kiln during
the firing... Take note of the outcome.

I believe that would be a fairly valid experiment to see if the purity of
the water had an effect on the glaze results. Copper reds are tricky and
perhaps the water quality does affect their outcome... I would suggest
that you start a thread on this at www.PotteryInfo.com on the "Glaze
Composition - High Fire" bulletin board.. (or similar board, depending on
what temp you are firing to).

.....Marshall
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>In a message dated 98-03-27 08:48:00 EST, you write:
>
><< Reference
> >my earlier thread 'Glaze Nightmare'. Is it only a change in flocculation or
> >are there other factors as well? I'd be interested in any comments on this
> >factor in glazes. >>
>
>Marshall:
>
>I have been in terested in this for some time. I am a retired college art
>prof and I'm currently teaching part time at a small art center. Our water is
>from a well located on the property and I had Culligon test the water and the
>results came back with a hardness of 28 ppm. As the seasons change, the water
>seems tro change also. So as a result of this, nothing is consistent in
>mixing glazes. I find that using rain water is the most practical. Probably
>distilled water would be even better. I have tried litmus ppaper, but that is
>just another thing to bother with. There seems to be no simple answer to
>this dilemma. You could add a small amolun t to vinager or Mureatic acid to
>the water to make it slightly acid. I have tried adding bentonite and on
>other ocassions the use of Darvon. I was not satisfied with either of these
>either.
>Consequently I am researching more on deflocculation techniques.
>
>If you have any insights to add to this prob lem, I would appreciatge hearing
>frolm yhou.
>
>Bobwicks2AOL.COM

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101 CLAYART MUGS (Summer 1998)
2ND ANNUAL CLAYARTERS' GALLERY - NAPLES, MAINE (Summer 1998)
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Celia & Marshall Talbott, Pottery By Celia, Route 114, P O Box 4116,
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