James Freeman on sun 1 jul 12
On Sun, Jul 1, 2012 at 7:21 PM, Gene Arnold wrote:
Does anyone have a good cone 10 green glaze that will stay green???
Gene...
Chrome greens stay green, but they tend to look like a coat of latex
paint. I have a very good one, but it's a bit boring. Let me know if you
want the recipe. Here are three cone 10 greens that I used to use quite a
bit before switching to cone 6, none of which have ever turned red on me:
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Glaze name: Reitz M-2 (AKA Reitz Green)
Cone: 10
Color: green/black
Testing: Untested
Surface: semi-matte
Firing: Reduction
GlazeType:
Recipe: Percent
Nepheline Syenite 70.00
Petalite 15.00
Whiting 5.00
Gerstley Borate 2.00
OM-4 Ball Clay 8.00
Totals: 100 %
Also add:
Cobalt Carbonate 1.00
Rutile 1.00
Comments:
Apply medium to thick, thin is black medium is green. Rub bubbles out in
raw glaze to help prevent pinholes. From Don Reitz. Also in known as
Reitz with a number of other color combinations.
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D
Glaze name: BWM Crystal Green Persuasion
Cone: 9 - 10
Color: Semi-Opaque Light Green
Testing: Tested
Surface: semi-matte or satin
Firing: reduction
GlazeType:
Recipe: Percent
Custer Feldspar 41.00
Gerstley Borate 12.00
Dolomite 7.00
Talc 15.00
EPK 5.00
Silica 20.00
Totals: 100 %
Also add:
Copper Carbonate 2.50
Rutile 6.00
Note: 6% Zircopax or Ultrox in place of the rutile yields another shade of
light green I called Green Frost
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Glaze name: Adrian's Copper Blue-Green
Cone: 10
Color: Semi-Opaque Blue-Green
Testing: Tested
Surface: matte
Firing: reduction
GlazeType:
Recipe: Percent
Cornwall Stone 77.30
Whiting 14.30
EPK 8.40
Totals: 100 %
Also add:
Copper Carbonate 6.70
Tin Oxide 6.70
Comments:
Very nice copper blue-green. Goes black where too thick. In oxidation
fires dark green, and somewhat curdled if thick, almost Grueby-like.
Unknown source. Adrian calls this VCAA Copper Blue-Green, but it is not.
The VCAA is a different recipe. Lots of copper, so likely not food safe.
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
I hope they help. Take care.
...James
James Freeman
"Talk sense to a fool, and he calls you foolish."
-Euripides
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources
Paul Lewing on sun 1 jul 12
On Jul 1, 2012, at 4:21 PM, Gene Arnold wrote:
Does anyone have a good cone 10 green glaze that will stay green?
Will the chrome greens stay green??
Yes, unless there is zinc or tin in the glazes. It there's zinc,
you'll get brown, and tin will make it pink.
I 'm using some zircopax in these glazes also, could that have
anything to do with the color changing to liver ??
Yes, but it's more the reduction that's turning your copper glazes
mauve. You need to be doing oxidation to get a green from copper.
There's also a really well known cone 10 reduction glaze called Reitz
Green that's a high lithium glaze colored with cobalt and rutile. If
you can't find the recipe anyplace else, I could dig it out of my old
cone 10 glaze notes.
But you can put chrome oxide into any glaze base with no zinc or tin
and get a reliable green.
Paul Lewing
www.paullewingtile.com
www.paullewingart.com
Gene Arnold on sun 1 jul 12
Does anyone have a good cone 10 green glaze that will stay green??? I
fire cone 10 in a gas kiln with a neutral to light reduction
atmosphere. I have tested some green recipes and at times they will
range from green to mauve to a liver color.
I know this is from the reduction but I'm trying to find a glaze that
will stay green in the neutral or reduction areas of the kiln. Will
the chrome greens stay green?? All the recipes have been copper green
glazes. I 'm using some zircopax in these glazes also, could that have
anything to do with the color changing to liver ??
I would like to fire all neutral but it seems I always get a little
reduction trying to get the heat even. I plan to use this glaze on
pots that will be in contact with food.
Thanks!!!
Gene Arnold
mudduck@mudduckpottery.net
Gene Arnold
mudduck@triad.rr.com
Steve Mills on mon 2 jul 12
I'm not a "glaze" man, but my utterly reliable green is a Celadon which is =
b=3D
asically a clear glaze plus 2% synthetic iron oxide, which for me is perfec=
t=3D
in a neutral to light reduction atmosphere.=3D20
The body I use it on has some iron in it, so test in varying small percenta=
g=3D
es depending on the iron content (if any) in yours.=3D20
Try it, it might work for you.=3D20
Steve M
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Sent from my iPod
On 2 Jul 2012, at 00:21, Gene Arnold wrote:
> Does anyone have a good cone 10 green glaze that will stay green??? I
> fire cone 10 in a gas kiln with a neutral to light reduction
> atmosphere. I have tested some green recipes and at times they will
> range from green to mauve to a liver color.
>=3D20
> I know this is from the reduction but I'm trying to find a glaze that
> will stay green in the neutral or reduction areas of the kiln. Will
> the chrome greens stay green?? All the recipes have been copper green
> glazes. I 'm using some zircopax in these glazes also, could that have
> anything to do with the color changing to liver ??
>=3D20
> I would like to fire all neutral but it seems I always get a little
> reduction trying to get the heat even. I plan to use this glaze on
> pots that will be in contact with food.
>=3D20
> Thanks!!!
> Gene Arnold
> mudduck@mudduckpottery.net
>=3D20
> Gene Arnold
> mudduck@triad.rr.com
Steve Mills on mon 2 jul 12
Tony,
Synthetic ROI is made to an established recipe, our supplier carried 40 dif=
f=3D
erent ones!=3D20
Natural ROI is a highly refined naturally sourced material.=3D20
When we first started Bath Potters Supplies, we were essentially selling th=
e=3D
Harrison Mayer catalogue, and the iron oxide we sold was a synthetic and u=
t=3D
terly reliable. It remained our mainstay (once we found out which one it wa=
s=3D
).=3D20
Latterly we also sold a "Natural" red iron oxide, also very good, but like =
a=3D
ll naturally occurring materials, subject to slight changes which could muc=
k=3D
up a recipe. =3D20
Granted the quality control in recent years is hundreds of times better tha=
n=3D
it used to be, but old habits die hard, and the synthetic one is the one =
I=3D
totally trust
The Hi-Mod AT Ball clay pit ran out years ago. It comprised of three layers=
n=3D
amed from the top: Y =3D3D Yellow, CY =3D3D Contaminated Yellow, and AT whi=
ch I s=3D
uspect (no proof) was a corruption of 80, though why I don't know.=3D20
AT is still sold, but as I understand it, it's a made-up job, and certainly=
u=3D
tterly reliable in performance.=3D20
Steve M
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Sent from my iPod
On 2 Jul 2012, at 18:11, Tony Joslin wrote:
> Steve,
>=3D20
> Could you elaborate on the distinction between synthetic and natural red
> iron oxide, please.
>=3D20
> Thanks,
>=3D20
> Tony
>=3D20
>=3D20
> Black lane Pots
> Hamptworth
> Salisbury
> Wiltshire
> UK
> sp5 2ds
> Tel: *44 (1) 794 390928
> Tel: *44 (1) 794 390706
> email: tony.joslin@gmail.com
>=3D20
>=3D20
>=3D20
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Steve Mills
> Sent: 02 July 2012 10:31
> To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: green cone 10
>=3D20
> I'm not a "glaze" man, but my utterly reliable green is a Celadon which i=
s=3D
> basically a clear glaze plus 2% synthetic iron oxide, which for me is
> perfect in a neutral to light reduction atmosphere.
> The body I use it on has some iron in it, so test in varying small
> percentages depending on the iron content (if any) in yours.
> Try it, it might work for you.
>=3D20
> Steve M
>=3D20
>=3D20
> Steve Mills
> Bath
> UK
> www.mudslinger.me.uk
> Sent from my iPod
>=3D20
>=3D20
> On 2 Jul 2012, at 00:21, Gene Arnold wrote:
>=3D20
>> Does anyone have a good cone 10 green glaze that will stay green??? I
>> fire cone 10 in a gas kiln with a neutral to light reduction
>> atmosphere. I have tested some green recipes and at times they will
>> range from green to mauve to a liver color.
>>=3D20
>> I know this is from the reduction but I'm trying to find a glaze that
>> will stay green in the neutral or reduction areas of the kiln. Will
>> the chrome greens stay green?? All the recipes have been copper green
>> glazes. I 'm using some zircopax in these glazes also, could that have
>> anything to do with the color changing to liver ??
>>=3D20
>> I would like to fire all neutral but it seems I always get a little
>> reduction trying to get the heat even. I plan to use this glaze on
>> pots that will be in contact with food.
>>=3D20
>> Thanks!!!
>> Gene Arnold
>> mudduck@mudduckpottery.net
>>=3D20
>> Gene Arnold
>> mudduck@triad.rr.com
Tony Joslin on mon 2 jul 12
Steve,
Could you elaborate on the distinction between synthetic and natural red
iron oxide, please.
Thanks,
Tony
Black lane Pots
Hamptworth
Salisbury
Wiltshire
UK
sp5 2ds
Tel: *44 (1) 794 390928
Tel: *44 (1) 794 390706
email: tony.joslin@gmail.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Steve Mills
Sent: 02 July 2012 10:31
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: green cone 10
I'm not a "glaze" man, but my utterly reliable green is a Celadon which is
basically a clear glaze plus 2% synthetic iron oxide, which for me is
perfect in a neutral to light reduction atmosphere.
The body I use it on has some iron in it, so test in varying small
percentages depending on the iron content (if any) in yours.
Try it, it might work for you.
Steve M
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Sent from my iPod
On 2 Jul 2012, at 00:21, Gene Arnold wrote:
> Does anyone have a good cone 10 green glaze that will stay green??? I
> fire cone 10 in a gas kiln with a neutral to light reduction
> atmosphere. I have tested some green recipes and at times they will
> range from green to mauve to a liver color.
>
> I know this is from the reduction but I'm trying to find a glaze that
> will stay green in the neutral or reduction areas of the kiln. Will
> the chrome greens stay green?? All the recipes have been copper green
> glazes. I 'm using some zircopax in these glazes also, could that have
> anything to do with the color changing to liver ??
>
> I would like to fire all neutral but it seems I always get a little
> reduction trying to get the heat even. I plan to use this glaze on
> pots that will be in contact with food.
>
> Thanks!!!
> Gene Arnold
> mudduck@mudduckpottery.net
>
> Gene Arnold
> mudduck@triad.rr.com
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