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## making an ash of myself

### Victoria E. Hamilton on sat 19 may 12

Kim -

I think you're firing too fast. Also, how close to the firebox can you =3D
set
pots?

Vicki Hamilton
Seattle

-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Kim =3D
Hohlmayer
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2012 4:55 PM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Making An Ash of Myself

My friend and I fire his wood burner about twice a year.=3DA0 We do a fast =
=3D
fire
that only takes 5 to 8 hours to get to cone 9.=3DA0 The results are =3D
wonderful
and no matter how often we've done it we still get soome surprises.=3DA0 =
=3D
My
issue is why aren't we getting more ash effects on our pots?=3DA0 We get =
=3D
carbon
trap and reduction and soda/salt glazing but no cool runny ash =3D
"drips."=3DA0 Is
it the speed, the temp, or some other factor I know nothing about?=3DA0 =3D
We've
been doing this about five years, learning as we go.=3DA0 My friend says =
=3D
he
based his kiln on the southern groundhog kilns.=3DA0 Anyone out there who =
=3D
can
explain the lack of cool ash stuff on the pots?=3DA0 Thank you.=3DA0 -Kim H=
.

### Kim Hohlmayer on sat 19 may 12

My friend and I fire his wood burner about twice a year.=3DA0 We do a fast =
fi=3D
re that only takes 5 to 8 hours to get to cone 9.=3DA0 The results are wond=
er=3D
ful and no matter how often we've done it we still get soome surprises.=3DA=
0 =3D
My issue is why aren't we getting more ash effects on our pots?=3DA0 We get=
c=3D
arbon trap and reduction and soda/salt glazing but no cool runny ash "drips=
=3D
."=3DA0 Is it the speed, the temp, or some other factor I know nothing abou=
t?=3D
=3DA0 We've been doing this about five years, learning as we go.=3DA0 My fr=
iend=3D
says he based his kiln on the southern groundhog kilns.=3DA0 Anyone out th=
er=3D
e who can explain the lack of cool ash stuff on the pots?=3DA0 Thank you.=
=3DA0 =3D
-Kim H.=3D0A

### David Hendley on sat 19 may 12

Kim, You probably getting little or no ash effects on your wood-fired
pots because of your extra-fast firings.

The design of the kiln is also important - a design with the fire, and thus
the ash, under the pots will never deposit as much ash as a design with
the fire on the same level, but changing that is not a option if you

I have been firing my wood kiln for more than 20 years. If speed is
the goal, it can fire to cone 10 in about 7 hours. But the resulting pots
look anemic and lack character. Slowing a firing down to 8 hours, just
one extra hour, can make a noticeable difference.
I try to aim for about a 10 hour firing (not counting an hour of pre-
heating warm-up). The resulting pots are worlds better than those
from a speed-firing - lots more flashings and more sparkling ash
deposits on the clay.

If the design of the kiln allows it, you can also try vigorously stirring
the coal bed every once-in-a-while for the last few hours of the
firing. Do it with a steel rod when there is a rip-roaring draft going,
to carry along some ashes with the flames.

David Hendley
david@farmpots.com
http://www.farmpots.com
http://www.thewahooligans.com

----- Original Message -----

My friend and I fire his wood burner about twice a year. We do a fast fire
that only takes 5 to 8 hours to get to cone 9. The results are wonderful an=
d
no matter how often we've done it we still get soome surprises. My issue is
why aren't we getting more ash effects on our pots? We get carbon trap and
reduction and soda/salt glazing but no cool runny ash "drips." Is it the
speed, the temp, or some other factor I know nothing about? We've been doin=
g
this about five years, learning as we go. My friend says he based his kiln
on the southern groundhog kilns. Anyone out there who can explain the lack
of cool ash stuff on the pots? Thank you. -Kim H.

### Paul Herman on sat 19 may 12

Kim,

The reason you aren't getting the ash drips and other strong fire
colors is because you are firing very fast, and this doesn't allow
enough ash buildup to happen. To get a good coating of ash you might
have to fire for a day and a half, or more. we fire for three days (72
hours) and get lots of nice ash and flashing, but it still is not
enough sometimes. I've considered going to a four day firing, but
haven't done it yet. Some wood firers that I trust have urged me to do
the four day firing, and said I'd like the results. Maybe someday.

Another thing to consider is that once a wood kiln is salted, the
shinos and flashing will never be the same. Residual salt tends to
affect these surfaces very strongly, and not in a great way.

It's one of those cases where long firings are very desirable. The hot
and fast brings with it some limitations. Time is our friend, in wood
ash land.

Best wishes,

Paul Herman

Great Basin Pottery
Doyle, California US
www.greatbasinpottery.com/

On May 19, 2012, at 4:55 PM, Kim Hohlmayer wrote:

> My friend and I fire his wood burner about twice a year. We do a
> fast fire that only takes 5 to 8 hours to get to cone 9. The
> results are wonderful and no matter how often we've done it we still
> get soome surprises. My issue is why aren't we getting more ash
> effects on our pots? We get carbon trap and reduction and soda/salt
> glazing but no cool runny ash "drips." Is it the speed, the temp,
> or some other factor I know nothing about? We've been doing this
> about five years, learning as we go. My friend says he based his
> kiln on the southern groundhog kilns. Anyone out there who can
> explain the lack of cool ash stuff on the pots? Thank you. -Kim H.
>

### Rimas VisGirda on sun 20 may 12

How much wood do you burn in 5-8 hours? It takes a LOT of wood to make enou=
=3D
gh ash to melt and run. Also depends on the size and shape of your kiln; fo=
=3D
r instance an Olsen fast fire doesn't deposit much ash on the pots as the a=
=3D
sh (carried by the=3DA0 flame, if you will) has to overcome gravity -and gr=
av=3D
ity never sleeps... Whereas a crossdraft that drives the flame horizontally=
=3D
across the ware will "blow" more ash onto the pots. Also cone 9 is barely =
=3D
hot enough to cause ash to be fluid; before the pots get hot enough to melt=
=3D
the ash, any ash will "fall off" and accumulate at the base of the pot. So=
=3D
me will "stay" on shoulders but won't melt until the pot gets hot enough to=
=3D
melt it. Consider snow as a rough analogy for ash, below a certain tempera=
=3D
ture the snow will accumulate and not melt; when the temp increases past fr=
=3D
eezing the snow starts to melt; it first turns to a "slush" then to liquid =
=3D
as the temp increases. If it snows for a half hour the snow will be
what I call a "dusting" and go away very quickly with a temperature rise; =
=3D
however if it snows for a coupe of days there will be a large accumulation,=
=3D
hence a lot of slush then liquid when the temp increases -same with ash. S=
=3D
o... my take on your lack of rivulets of ash is the result of the speed of =
=3D
your firing coupled with the low temperature... In a 6 chamber noborigama t=
=3D
hat was built in the early 70's and is still functioning, a typical firing =
=3D
takes about 14-16 hours; the prechamber is typically fired for about 8-10 h=
=3D
ours gets to about cone 9-10 and the ash effects out of it tend to be dry; =
=3D
the first chamber then takes about 2-3 hours to cone 11 and the pots in fro=
=3D
nt typically get a sprinkling of melted ash on the sides facing the firebox=
=3D
. Each consecutive chamber fires faster and the frontal pots get less ash s=
=3D
prinkling... I have taken pieces that were fired in the prechamber that hav=
=3D
e a dry or rough coating of ash (because the piece did not get hot
enough to melt the ash but did get hot enough to make the ash "stick") and=
=3D
refired them in a gas kiln to cone 11+ and got some nice melted ash glaze =
=3D
effects although not really very heavy because there wasn't all that MUCH a=
=3D
sh accumulation... In my opinion if you want the runny accumulation of ash =
=3D
glaze, you need to get to cone 10-12 as fast as you can then maintain that =
=3D
temp so that nay fly ash landing on the pots melts and if you fire long eno=
=3D
ugh, say 4-10 days the accumulation will get thick enough to form a glaze a=
=3D
nd run, remember gravity never sleeps... Regards, -Rimas=3D0A=3D0A=3D0ADate=
:=3DA0 =3D
=3DA0 Sat, 19 May 2012 16:55:18 -0700=3D0AFrom:=3DA0 =3DA0 Kim Hohlmayer eadiepot=3D
ter@YAHOO.COM>=3D0ASubject: Making An Ash of Myself=3D0A=3D0AMy friend and =
I fire=3D
his wood burner about twice a year.=3D3DA0 We do a fast fi=3D3D=3D0Are tha=
t only=3D
takes 5 to 8 hours to get to cone 9.=3D3DA0 The results are wonder=3D3D=3D=
0Aful =3D
and no matter how often we've done it we still get soome surprises.=3D3DA0 =
=3D
=3D3D=3D0AMy issue is why aren't we getting more ash effects on our pots?=
=3D3DA0 =3D
We get c=3D3D=3D0Aarbon trap and reduction and soda/salt glazing but no coo=
l ru=3D
nny ash "drips=3D3D=3D0A."=3D3DA0 Is it the speed, the temp, or some other =
factor=3D
ars, l=3D
earning as we go.=3D3DA0 My friend=3D3D=3D0Asays he based his kiln on the s=
outher=3D
n groundhog kilns.=3D3DA0 Anyone out ther=3D3D=3D0Ae who can explain the la=
ck of =3D
cool ash stuff on the pots?=3D3DA0 Thank you.=3D3DA0 =3D3D=3D0A-Kim H.=3D3D=
0A=3D0A

### Lee on sun 20 may 12

On Sat, May 19, 2012 at 6:55 PM, Kim Hohlmayer wro=
=3D
te:
> My friend and I fire his wood burner about twice a year.=3DA0 We do a fas=
t =3D
fire that only takes 5 to 8 hours to get to cone 9.=3DA0 The results are wo=
nd=3D
erful and no matter how often we've done it we still get soome surprises.=
=3D
=3DA0 My issue is why aren't we getting more ash effects on our pots?=3DA0 =
We g=3D
et carbon trap and reduction and soda/salt glazing but no cool runny ash "d=
=3D
rips."=3DA0 Is it the speed, the temp, or some other factor I know nothing =
ab=3D
out?=3DA0 We've been doing this about five years, learning as we go.=3DA0 M=
y fr=3D
iend says he based his kiln on the southern groundhog kilns.=3DA0 Anyone ou=
t =3D
there who can explain the lack of cool ash stuff on the pots?=3DA0 Thank yo=
u.=3D
=3DA0 -Kim H.
>

You aren't firing long enough at a high enough temp.

--=3D20
--
=3DA0Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/

=3DA0"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D9=
7that is, =3D
"The
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue

### John Britt on sun 20 may 12

Probably not hot enough. Natural ash just landing on the unglazed pots=3D20=
=3D

doesn't like to melt without a 3 hour soak a cone 10.

If you are using ash glaze it may be just too cool for those to flow. Try=
=3D
=3D20
using some cone 6 ash glazes.

Johnbrittpottery.com

AWESOME BLOG: http://ncclayclub.blogspot.com

### James Freeman on sun 20 may 12

On Sat, May 19, 2012 at 7:55 PM, Kim Hohlmayer wrot=
e:
My friend and I fire his wood burner about twice a year. We do a fast fire
that only takes 5 to 8 hours to get to cone 9. The results are wonderful
and no matter how often we've done it we still get soome surprises. My
issue is why aren't we getting more ash effects on our pots?

Kim...

The wood-firers on the list may have a better answer, but I don't think
your fast firing allows anywhere near enough time to develop the drippy
surfaces you are after. The wood kiln I occasionally fire at our local
college takes between 24 and 30 hours for a typical firing, and even then,
only the pots in the very front get really plastered with ash.

Since you are not doing the many days long firings that often produce the
look you are after, there are a couple of tricks that can help you to
"fake" the look. We have sifted raw ash onto the shoulders of our pots
prior to firing. This works to produce the runny, drippy surface, provided
your kiln gets hot enough. For the ash I use, it seems to take a very hard
cone 10 or hotter. If your kiln does not get hot enough, the ash will be
an ugly, sintered mess. These pots can be easily salvaged though by simply
running them through an ordinary cone 10 gas firing.

A second trick we used is to blow sifted ash into the ware chamber with a
sand blaster gun (the same one we use to inject salt into the salt kiln).
This trick worked very well. A third trick we used was to attach our shop
vac hose to the exhaust port of the vacuum, attach a piece of pipe to the
other end, and use the shop vac exhaust to blow air into the coal bed
through one of the mouse holes. This worked OK, provided the exhaust
stream was fairly gentle. At high velocity, it is quite sufficient to blow
unwanted crunchies and kiln junk onto the pots.

The type of wood you burn will also have an effect on the quantity of ash
you generate. We typically fired the college kiln with scraps of oak
flooring. This is not an ideal heat source, as it releases only a moderate
amount of ash, and also tends to coal up excessively. Dick Lehman told me
about a firing he did with all cherry wood. He said that the pots received
almost no ash at all from this wood source, and the entire load had to be
re-fired.

I'm sure you will get better information, but this may give you a start.

...James

James Freeman

"Talk sense to a fool, and he calls you foolish."
-Euripides

http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources

### Randall Moody on sun 20 may 12

On Sat, May 19, 2012 at 7:55 PM, Kim Hohlmayer wrot=
e:

> My friend and I fire his wood burner about twice a year. We do a fast
> fire that only takes 5 to 8 hours to get to cone 9. The results are
> wonderful and no matter how often we've done it we still get soome
> surprises. My issue is why aren't we getting more ash effects on our
> pots? We get carbon trap and reduction and soda/salt glazing but no cool
> runny ash "drips." Is it the speed, the temp, or some other factor I kno=
w
> nothing about? We've been doing this about five years, learning as we go=
.
> My friend says he based his kiln on the southern groundhog kilns. Anyone
> out there who can explain the lack of cool ash stuff on the pots? Thank
> you. -Kim H.
>
>
As you can see, the general consensus is that you are firing too fast. If
you don't want to increase the firing time you could experiment with
introducing straw into the fire box to increase the ash deposit. This may
or may not work with such a short firing but I have seen good results with
a regular lengthy wood firing. I think that the preferred straw was rice
straw but I think that even hay would probably be worth looking into.

--
Randall in Atlanta
http://wrandallmoody.com

### WBBuckner on mon 21 may 12

To augment Randall's suggestion, you could also stir the ember bed
vigorously enough to push more ash toward the ware.

-Bill

On Sun, May 20, 2012 at 10:48 PM, Randall Moody wr=
ote:

> On Sat, May 19, 2012 at 7:55 PM, Kim Hohlmayer > >wrote:
>
> > My friend and I fire his wood burner about twice a year. We do a fast
> > fire that only takes 5 to 8 hours to get to cone 9. The results are
> > wonderful and no matter how often we've done it we still get soome
> > surprises. My issue is why aren't we getting more ash effects on our
> > pots? We get carbon trap and reduction and soda/salt glazing but no co=
ol
> > runny ash "drips." Is it the speed, the temp, or some other factor I
> know
> > nothing about? We've been doing this about five years, learning as we
> go.
> > My friend says he based his kiln on the southern groundhog kilns. Anyo=
ne
> > out there who can explain the lack of cool ash stuff on the pots? Than=
k
> > you. -Kim H.
> >
> >
> As you can see, the general consensus is that you are firing too fast. If
> you don't want to increase the firing time you could experiment with
> introducing straw into the fire box to increase the ash deposit. This may
> or may not work with such a short firing but I have seen good results wit=
h
> a regular lengthy wood firing. I think that the preferred straw was rice
> straw but I think that even hay would probably be worth looking into.
>
> --
> Randall in Atlanta
> http://wrandallmoody.com
>

--
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
wbBUCKNER - Atlanta
www.sodaglaze.com
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||

"When I was growing up I always wanted to be someone.
Now I realize I should have been more specific."

-Lily Tomlin

### Lee on mon 21 may 12

On Mon, May 21, 2012 at 11:38 AM, WBBuckner wrote:
> To augment Randall's suggestion, you could also stir the ember bed
> vigorously enough to push more ash toward the ware.
>

Wouldn't help in a 5 hour fire.

--
=3DA0Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/

=3DA0"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D9=
7that is, =3D
"The
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue

### WBBuckner on tue 22 may 12

Agreed, Randall. In this case it is a matter of delivering the ash and
enough heat to melt it. It has been my lifetime experience that "cant's"
and "wont's" are other peoples' problems. Not mine.

-Bill

On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 1:20 PM, Randall Moody wro=
=3D
te:

> It is worth a shot. I rarely ever pay much attention to "won'ts" or
> "can'ts"
>
> On Mon, May 21, 2012 at 3:18 PM, Lee wrote:
>
> > On Mon, May 21, 2012 at 11:38 AM, WBBuckner wrote=
=3D
:
> > > To augment Randall's suggestion, you could also stir the ember bed
> > > vigorously enough to push more ash toward the ware.
> > >
> >
> > Wouldn't help in a 5 hour fire.
> >
> > --
> > Lee Love in Minneapolis
> > http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
> >
> > "Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D9=
7that is=3D
, "The
> > land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
> > within itself." -- John O'Donohue
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Randall in Atlanta
> http://wrandallmoody.com
>

--=3D20
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
wbBUCKNER - Atlanta
www.sodaglaze.com
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||

"When I was growing up I always wanted to be someone.
Now I realize I should have been more specific."

-Lily Tomlin

### Randall Moody on tue 22 may 12

It is worth a shot. I rarely ever pay much attention to "won'ts" or
"can'ts"

On Mon, May 21, 2012 at 3:18 PM, Lee wrote:

> On Mon, May 21, 2012 at 11:38 AM, WBBuckner wrote:
> > To augment Randall's suggestion, you could also stir the ember bed
> > vigorously enough to push more ash toward the ware.
> >
>
> Wouldn't help in a 5 hour fire.
>
> --
> Lee Love in Minneapolis
> http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
>
> "Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D97t=
hat is, =3D
"The
> land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
> within itself." -- John O'Donohue
>

--=3D20
Randall in Atlanta
http://wrandallmoody.com

### gary navarre on tue 22 may 12

=C2 In my last two firings I started stirring the coal=3D

Hey Folks,=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3DC2=3DA0In my last two firings I started stirrin=
g the coal=3D
pile and dragging it out back into the Pignose (but not out onto the groun=
=3D
d in front of the stoking area) to release more heat like Shiho Kanzaki sai=
=3D
d he does and besides a lot more heat I got more ash too, but I still faile=
=3D
d in getting the Mid-chamber and tail settings as hot as in my first firing=
=3D
(^4 at the exit flue). In the end the front setting had a solid ^13+ to ^9=
=3D
on the side between the front and mid-front settings. This firing I waited=
=3D
too long to remove the soap brick in the door stoke hole and it got stuck =
=3D
so I couldn't side stoke in the door. In 4 out of 5 firings from 62 to 150 =
=3D
hours I think the slow long stoking of the Pignose during the warning stage=
=3D
s aided in letting the ash have a chance to settle out on certain surfaces.=
=3D
As the heat increased more ash still deposited as the surfaces became soft=
=3D
on the firebox side of my Hobbed Bourry-Gama cross-draft. I also noticed a=
=3D
lot of
snap-crackle-&-pop with the fuel, either from the resins boiling or some m=
=3D
oisture from partial exposure to the elements, and think that helped keep a=
=3D
sh afloat so it has a chance to find a pot. The main problem is at the end =
=3D
finding a way to get the heat back up enough to make one final melt and qui=
=3D
et the coals without disturbing them enough to spray the pots with a final =
=3D
last rough surface. Some pieces right up front got nicely crusted with vari=
=3D
ous colors of ash, some even had cinders from the coals. As many folks have=
=3D
said they polish the pots so somehow I figured out I can use wet/dry emery=
=3D
paper and a stone to smooth the most objectionable sharps. I realize the l=
=3D
ong firing is more work but knew long ago fast firing and tricks, no doubt =
=3D
devised to fit wood firings into the university security schedule or the we=
=3D
ekend workshop, were not honest to the aesthetic even if it meant my produc=
=3D
tion would be so limited as to become insignificant to the big
picture of wood firing in America. However, some of the pieces are so awes=
=3D
ome they don't seem possible except if found in some metamorphic geologic o=
=3D
utcrop so long, slow, and hot is the answer. =3DC2=3DA0 =3D0A=3D0A=3DC2=3DA=
0=3D0AGary Nav=3D
arre=3D0ANavarre Pottery=3D0ANavarre Enterprises=3D0ANorway, Michigan, USA=
=3D0Ahttp=3D
://www.NavarrePottery.etsy.com=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=
=3DA0 <...... New Po=3D
=3D0A=3D
=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A________________________________=3D0A From: Lee s@GMAIL.=3D
COM>=3D0ATo: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG =3D0ASent: Monday, May 21, 2012 2:18 =
PM=3D
=3D0ASubject: Re: [Clayart] Making An Ash of Myself=3D0A =3D0AOn Mon, May 2=
1, 201=3D
2 at 11:38 AM, WBBuckner wrote:=3D0A> To augment Rand=
al=3D
l's suggestion, you could also stir the ember bed=3D0A> vigorously enough t=
o =3D
push more ash toward the ware.=3D0A>=3D0A=3D0AWouldn't help in a 5 hour fir=
e.=3D0A=3D
=3D0A--=3D0A=3DC2=3DA0Lee Love in Minneapolis=3D0Ahttp://mingeisota.blogspo=
t.com/=3D0A=3D
=3D0A=3DC2=3DA0"Ta tIr na n-=3DC3=3DB3g ar chul an tI=3DE2=3D80=3D94tIr dla=
inn trina ch=3DC3=3D
=3DA9ile"=3DE2=3D80=3D94that is, "The=3D0Aland of eternal youth is behind t=
he house, =3D
a beautiful land fluent=3D0Awithin itself." -- John O'Donohue

### Craig Edwards on tue 22 may 12

Hello Randall and all: I try not to stir the ash pit at the end of the
fire. Unless of course I'm looking for sandpaper. Ash takes some time to
melt after it lands on the pot. I try not to stir the ember bed in the last
eight hours of the firing. But do what you want. YMMV.

--=3D20
Make Good Pots
~Craig
New London MN
http://woodfiredpottery.blogspot.com/

On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 12:20 PM, Randall Moody wr=
=3D
ote:

> It is worth a shot. I rarely ever pay much attention to "won'ts" or
> "can'ts"
>
> On Mon, May 21, 2012 at 3:18 PM, Lee wrote:
>
> > On Mon, May 21, 2012 at 11:38 AM, WBBuckner wrote=
=3D
:
> > > To augment Randall's suggestion, you could also stir the ember bed
> > > vigorously enough to push more ash toward the ware.
> > >
> >
> > Wouldn't help in a 5 hour fire.
> >
> > --
> > Lee Love in Minneapolis
> > http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
> >
> > "Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D9=
7that is=3D
, "The
> > land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
> > within itself." -- John O'Donohue
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Randall in Atlanta
> http://wrandallmoody.com
>

### Kim Hohlmayer on thu 24 may 12

Good point! Yes, I have had that happen. I'll try to place the =3D

=3D0A=3D0AGood point!=3DA0 Yes, I have had that happen.=3DA0 I'll try to pl=
ace the =3D
ash on with the glaze as I know that from cone 6 on ash glazes will work.=
=3D
=3DA0 I'll play with all the ideas and let you all know the results.=3DA0 I=
als=3D
o have found that "won't" and "can't" are sometimes over used.=3DA0 I mean =
no=3D
disrespect to those who know so much more than I do.=3DA0 I just find that=
t=3D
here may be a side door to a problem that they haven't had to use.=3DA0 In =
ot=3D
her words it becomes "necessity is the mother of invention."=3DA0 --Kim H, =
;>=3D
)=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A________________________________

### Kim Hohlmayer on fri 25 may 12

Yes, Lee, I do realize the truth of what you said.=3DA0 However, sometimes =
I =3D
find myself=3DA0 in situations where what I want to do isn't up to me.=3DA0=
I f=3D
ire with my friend in his kiln at his discretion, his way.=3DA0 As a creati=
ve=3D
person I explore different ideas to get effects I like while firing the wa=
=3D
y he chooses to fire.=3DA0 In over 20 years of potting I have found that wh=
il=3D
e "I canna' change the laws of physics" or chemistry I can sometimes find a=
=3D
lternatives.=3DA0 Yes, I would love to fire in a multiple day wood kiln fir=
in=3D
g once a year.=3DA0 Right now, I just can't do it.=3DA0 But then, I didn't =
have=3D
access to any wood kiln at all six years ago so I'm darn near delirious wi=
=3D
th joy that I get to wood fire at all.=3DA0 I will never master even quick =
wo=3D
od fire techniques but if I keep exploring, pushing limits and listening to=
=3D
others who went down that road before me I might gain decent control of my=
=3D
results.=3DA0 Let's face it, as potters we envision a result then try to f=
in=3D
d
the best way to get it under the conditions in which we find ourselves.=3D=
A0=3D
Thank you for being one of the voices who helps me navigate the ceramic kn=
=3D
owledge maze.=3DA0 -Kim H.=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A________________________=
________

### Lee on fri 25 may 12

On Thu, May 24, 2012 at 10:24 AM, Kim Hohlmayer wr=
=3D
ote:

> Good point!=3DA0 Yes, I have had that happen.=3DA0 I'll try to place the =
ash =3D
on with the glaze as I know that from cone 6 on
>ash glazes will work.=3DA0 I'll play with all the ideas and let you all kn=
ow=3D
the results.=3DA0 I also have found that "won't" and
> "can't" are sometimes over used.

If you can humble yourself, & pay attention to your tools
and materials, instead of insisting that they do one thing or another,
you will learn from them.

If you ask someone why they do long wood firings, the main
reason you hear is "For ash effects."

Cone 6 electric might be Masterable. In woodfire, you have
to learn how to dance with the kiln.

--
=3DA0Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/

=3DA0"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D9=
7that is, =3D
"The
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue

### Lee on sat 26 may 12

On Sat, May 26, 2012 at 12:07 AM, Robert Harris w=
=3D
rote:
>
> Sometimes people who give advice tell us that our problems are the
> limits we have set.

Yes. She asked why and well over 100 years of experience, (not
theory), in wood firing gave her the reasons.

One of the reasons inexperienced people get answers they don't
like, is because they don't ask the right questions.

When I am not wood firing, I fire in gas/soda and get many
effects in soda that are similar to woodfiring. I don't try to
imitate woodfiring, but I try to get similar effects. If I showed
you one of my soda pots, you would not be able to tell it from my
woodfired pots.

If you explain what particular effects you are trying to get
in a short wood firing, you can be given some advice on how to achieve
them. Some short firing kilns are actually better than others for
flashing. Like Steven's new compact woodkiln.

When I visited Warren MacKenzie a couple days ago, he told
me a story about a Shigaraki potter he visited while he was doing a
residency in Shigaraki. The potter took him outback to see the wood
kiln, which was used only as a storage shed. He showed MacKenzie the
kill he used to fire "Shigaraki ware." It was an electric with a box
underneath it where charcoal was burned for reduction. They use
other techniques on the inside of the electric kiln, to get flashing
and ash deposits.

--
=3DA0Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/

=3DA0"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D9=
7that is, =3D
"The
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue

### Robert Harris on sat 26 may 12

Great post.

Sometimes people who give advice tell us that our problems are the
limits we have set. Admittedly sometimes people unconsciously limit
themselves when they need not, but equally sometimes it would be nice
if the advice given, accepted that the limits we have mentioned are,
indeed, not in our hands.

Robert

On Fri, May 25, 2012 at 3:21 PM, Kim Hohlmayer wro=
=3D
te:
> Yes, Lee, I do realize the truth of what you said.=3DA0 However, sometime=
s =3D
I find myself=3DA0 in situations where what I want to do isn't up to me.=3D=
A0 I=3D
fire with my friend in his kiln at his discretion, his way.=3DA0 As a crea=
ti=3D
ve person I explore different ideas to get effects I like while firing the =
=3D
way he chooses to fire.=3DA0 In over 20 years of potting I have found that =
wh=3D
ile "I canna' change the laws of physics" or chemistry I can sometimes find=
=3D
alternatives.=3DA0 Yes, I would love to fire in a multiple day wood kiln f=
ir=3D
ing once a year.=3DA0 Right now, I just can't do it.=3DA0 But then, I didn'=
t ha=3D
ve access to any wood kiln at all six years ago so I'm darn near delirious =
=3D
with joy that I get to wood fire at all.=3DA0 I will never master even quic=
k =3D
wood fire techniques but if I keep exploring, pushing limits and listening =
=3D
to others who went down that road before me I might gain decent control of =
=3D
my results.=3DA0 Let's face it, as potters we envision a result then try to=
f=3D
ind
> =3DA0the best way to get it under the conditions in which we find ourselv=
es=3D
.=3DA0 Thank you for being one of the voices who helps me navigate the cera=
mi=3D
c knowledge maze.=3DA0 -Kim H.
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________

--=3D20
----------------------------------------------------------

### Kim Hohlmayer on mon 28 may 12

No argument there, Lee.=3DC2=3DA0 I certainly respect the voice of experien=
ce.=3D
=3DC2=3DA0 Wasn't trying to start a bruhaha.=3DC2=3DA0 Yes, the question as=
stated =3D
was answered, however, that doesn't mean that this answer is the end of the=
=3D
discussion.=3DC2=3DA0 I think your hackles rose a bit because you thought =
I wa=3D
s ignorantly disregarding the experience behind the advice.=3DC2=3DA0 What =
I me=3D
ant is rather that there are certain things I like and would like to see on=
=3D
my pots and how do I get there with my materials at hand.=3DC2=3DA0 I love=
you=3D
r story about the wood kiln being used for storage.=3DC2=3DA0 =3D0A=3D0A=3D=
0AAlso rem=3D
ember that we type faster than we think sometimes.=3DC2=3DA0 So if my abrup=
t ma=3D
nner offends you, please forgive.=3DC2=3DA0 -Kim H.=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A____=
____________=3D
________________=3D0A From: Lee =3D0ATo: Clayart@LS=
V.CE=3D
RAMICS.ORG =3D0ASent: Saturday, May 26, 2012 9:47 PM=3D0ASubject: Re: Makin=
g An=3D
Ash of Myself=3D0A =3D0AOn Sat, May 26, 2012 at 12:07 AM, Robert Harris ober=3D
tgharris@gmail.com> wrote:=3D0A>=3D0A> Sometimes people who give advice tel=
l us=3D
that our problems are the=3D0A> limits we have set.=3D0A=3D0A=3DC2=3DA0 Y=
es.=3DC2=3DA0 =3D
She asked why and well over 100 years of experience, (not=3D0Atheory), in =
wo=3D
od firing gave her the reasons.=3D0A=3D0A=3DC2=3DA0 =3DC2=3DA0 One of the =
reasons inex=3D
t=3D
he right questions.=3D0A=3D0A=3DC2=3DA0 =3DC2=3DA0 =3DC2=3DA0 When I am not=
wood firing, I =3D
fire in gas/soda and get many=3D0Aeffects in soda that are similar to woodf=
ir=3D
ing.=3DC2=3DA0 I don't try to=3D0Aimitate woodfiring, but I try to get simi=
lar ef=3D
fects.=3DC2=3DA0 =3DC2=3DA0 If I showed=3D0Ayou one of my soda pots, you wo=
uld not be=3D
able to tell it from my=3D0Awoodfired pots.=3D0A=3D0A=3DC2=3DA0 =3DC2=3DA0=
=3DC2=3DA0 =3DC2=3DA0=3D
If you explain what particular effects you are trying to get=3D0Ain a sho=
rt=3D
wood firing, you can be given some advice on how to achieve=3D0Athem.=3DC2=
=3DA0 =3D
Some short firing kilns are actually better than others for=3D0Aflashing.=
=3DC2=3D
=3DA0 Like Steven's new compact woodkiln.=3D0A=3D0A=3DC2=3DA0 =3DC2=3DA0 =
=3DC2=3DA0 =3DC2=3DA0 =3D
=3DC2=3DA0 When I visited Warren MacKenzie a couple days ago, he told=3D0A=
me a s=3D
tory about a Shigaraki potter he visited while he was doing a=3D0Aresidency=
i=3D
n Shigaraki.=3DC2=3DA0 The potter took him outback to see the wood=3D0Akil=
n, whi=3D
ch was used only as a storage shed.=3DC2=3DA0 He showed MacKenzie the=3D0A=
kill h=3D
e used to fire "Shigaraki ware."=3DC2=3DA0 It was an electric with a box=
=3D0Aund=3D
erneath it where charcoal was burned for reduction.=3DC2=3DA0 They use=3D0=
Aother=3D
techniques on the inside of the electric kiln, to get flashing=3D0Aand ash=
d=3D
eposits.=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A--=3D0A=3DC2=3DA0Lee Love in Minneapolis=3D0Aht=
tp://mingeisota.=3D
blogspot.com/=3D0A=3D0A=3DC2=3DA0"Ta tIr na n-=3DC3=3DB3g ar chul an tI=3DE=
2=3D80=3D94tIr dla=3D
inn trina ch=3DC3=3DA9ile"=3DE2=3D80=3D94that is, "The=3D0Aland of eternal =
youth is beh=3D
ind the house, a beautiful land fluent=3D0Awithin itself." -- John O'Donohu=
e