Ben Morrison on sat 10 mar 12
This last year I did some testing of ramable cements and came up with somet=
hing like this:
4 Pine Shavings (animal bedding)
4 Course Grog
4 Fire Clay
1 Cement
I used ciment fondu for my cement binder because of the lower cost and I wa=
s not as concerned about thermal mass. I rammed this mixture into forms and=
built an out door cook center. I modified parts of the oven to use 1/2 per=
lite in place of 1/2 of the grog portion in an effort to lighten up the wal=
ls of the oven box itself. I'm considering next time to use steel shavings =
instead of pine shavings.
My question is this, does anyone have experience with homemade refractory? =
Does anyone have a better recipe than what I've listed here for kiln walls =
and floor?
-Ben
________________________________
From: Michael McDowell
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2012 5:49 PM
Subject: Potter vs. Ceramicist
Jeff,
This is an interesting question, because common usage is the ultimate
determinant of the meaning of English words. "Ceramics" which might be
thought of as a general term referring to all processes involving the heat
transformation of clay and other earth materials has come in general usage
to refer to slipcasting of low fire white earthenware. This is due to the
popularity of that approach amongst hobbyists who were not wrong to say tha=
t
they were doing "ceramics", just wrong to think that what they were doing
defined the term. Now it may be that two wrongs don't make a right, but in
English usage, there is some critical mass where "enough" wrongs do. So now
we have the ambiguous situation where "ceramics" refers to both the
inclusive set of all clay work, and also to a specific sub-set of clay work=
.
In places where there has never been the mass popularity of this hobby craf=
t
"ceramics", the term "ceramicist" is an acceptable term of reference for on=
e
who pursues work with fired clay, whatever the product. But I think
particularly in the United States, and anywhere else the hobby had a mass
audience, the term ceramicist can be interpreted as "hobbyist" by a
significant share of the population.
I think you are wise to call yourself something other than ceramicist. On
the other hand, I don't think you should jump to take offense when others
call you that. There are many parts of the world, and the culture, that wer=
e
never penetrated by the popularity of "ceramics" in the small sense. Outsid=
e
of that sphere, "ceramicist" is not a demeaning reference.
Michael McDowell
Whatcom County, WA, USA
michael@mcdowellpottery.com
http://www.McDowellPottery.com
Steve Mills on sun 11 mar 12
I have built very efficient kilns et al out of a mix of:
2 parts scrap clay.=3D20
Enough water to make it soft.=3D20
1 part sand.=3D20
2 parts chopped straw.=3D20
Mixed by feet in an old Bath Tub.=3D20
Applied 4 inches thick over a Basket-work former with a newspaper interfac=
e=3D
.=3D20
Dry out the inside with a very small fire until the clay is dry, then burn =
o=3D
ut the former.=3D20
To water- proof, add an outside layer of the same mix 50/50 with cow dung a=
b=3D
out half an inch thick.=3D20
This technique is called "Wattle & Daub" and has been used forever!
See "Courses" on my website.=3D20
:-)
Steve M
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Sent from my iPod
On 11 Mar 2012, at 03:53, Ben Morrison wrote:
> This last year I did some testing of ramable cements and came up with som=
e=3D
thing like this:
>=3D20
> 4 Pine Shavings (animal bedding)
> 4 Course Grog
> 4 Fire Clay
> 1 Cement
>=3D20
> I used ciment fondu for my cement binder because of the lower cost and I =
w=3D
as not as concerned about thermal mass. I rammed this mixture into forms an=
d=3D
built an out door cook center. I modified parts of the oven to use 1/2 per=
l=3D
ite in place of 1/2 of the grog portion in an effort to lighten up the wall=
s=3D
of the oven box itself. I'm considering next time to use steel shavings in=
s=3D
tead of pine shavings.
>=3D20
> My question is this, does anyone have experience with homemade refractory=
?=3D
Does anyone have a better recipe than what I've listed here for kiln walls=
a=3D
nd floor?
>=3D20
> -Ben
>=3D20
> ________________________________
> From: Michael McDowell
> To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2012 5:49 PM
> Subject: Potter vs. Ceramicist
>=3D20
> Jeff,
>=3D20
> This is an interesting question, because common usage is the ultimate
> determinant of the meaning of English words. "Ceramics" which might be
> thought of as a general term referring to all processes involving the hea=
t=3D
> transformation of clay and other earth materials has come in general usag=
e=3D
> to refer to slipcasting of low fire white earthenware. This is due to the
> popularity of that approach amongst hobbyists who were not wrong to say t=
h=3D
at
> they were doing "ceramics", just wrong to think that what they were doing
> defined the term. Now it may be that two wrongs don't make a right, but i=
n=3D
> English usage, there is some critical mass where "enough" wrongs do. So n=
o=3D
w
> we have the ambiguous situation where "ceramics" refers to both the
> inclusive set of all clay work, and also to a specific sub-set of clay wo=
r=3D
k.
> In places where there has never been the mass popularity of this hobby cr=
a=3D
ft
> "ceramics", the term "ceramicist" is an acceptable term of reference for =
o=3D
ne
> who pursues work with fired clay, whatever the product. But I think
> particularly in the United States, and anywhere else the hobby had a mass
> audience, the term ceramicist can be interpreted as "hobbyist" by a
> significant share of the population.
>=3D20
> I think you are wise to call yourself something other than ceramicist. On
> the other hand, I don't think you should jump to take offense when others
> call you that. There are many parts of the world, and the culture, that w=
e=3D
re
> never penetrated by the popularity of "ceramics" in the small sense. Outs=
i=3D
de
> of that sphere, "ceramicist" is not a demeaning reference.
>=3D20
> Michael McDowell
> Whatcom County, WA, USA
> michael@mcdowellpottery.com
> http://www.McDowellPottery.com
Steve Slatin on sun 11 mar 12
Steve -- What you have there is a recipe for cob -- from which=3D0Ahouses h=
av=3D
e been built from 100's if not 1000's of years.=3DA0 I=3D0Ahave participate=
d in=3D
mixing/applying a little to a water-heating/bath=3D0Aapparatus (with the e=
xh=3D
aust vented through a winding pipe also encased=3D0Ain cob and formed to be=
a=3D
seat -- nice and toasty on a cold winter=3D0Aday!) and my impression is th=
at=3D
it's not a good insulator, but =3D0Aprovides excellent thermal 'inertia' -=
- =3D
it takes a good bit of heat=3D0Ato get to temp where something is surrounde=
d =3D
by cob, but it=3D0Astays warm for a long, long time (rather like adobe).=3D=
0A=3D
=3DA0=3D0AI'd anticipate that the best combination with be a thin sheet=3DA=
0 of=3D
=3D0Ahigh-efficiency insulator (brick or fiber) covered in cob.=3DA0 That'd=
=3D0Aa=3D
llow the interior=3DA0temp to rise rapidly and=3DA0have a long, slow,=3D0Ac=
ool af=3D
ter the fire's out.=3D0A=3DA0=3D0ASteve Slatin -- =3D0A=3D0A=3D0AN48.088645=
0=3D0AW123.142=3D
0482 =3D0A=3D0A=3D0A----- Original Message -----=3D0AFrom: Steve Mills ginal.mu=3D
dslinger@GMAIL.COM>=3D0ATo: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=3D0ACc: =3D0ASent: Sun=
day, M=3D
arch 11, 2012 11:52 AM=3D0ASubject: Re: Castable, or ramable cement=3D0A=3D=
0AI ha=3D
ve built very efficient kilns et al out of a mix of:=3D0A2 parts scrap clay=
. =3D
=3D0AEnough water to make it soft. =3D0A1 part sand. =3D0A2 parts chopped s=
traw. =3D
=3D0AMixed by feet in an old Bath Tub. =3D0AApplied 4 inches thick=3DA0 ove=
r a Ba=3D
sket-work former with a newspaper interface. =3D0ADry out the inside with a=
v=3D
ery small fire until the clay is dry, then burn out the former. =3D0ATo wat=
er=3D
- proof, add an outside layer of the same mix 50/50 with cow dung about hal=
=3D
f an inch thick. =3D0AThis technique is called "Wattle & Daub" and has been=
u=3D
sed forever!=3D0ASee "Courses" on my website. =3D0A=3D0A:-)=3D0A=3D0ASteve =
M=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D
Steve Mills=3D0ABath=3D0AUK=3D0A
Steve Mills on sun 11 mar 12
We found the amount of chopped straw was an important decision depending on=
u=3D
se. Less for a house, more for a kiln. Think string vests!
Wattle-and-Daub (or as you say Cob) is an amazingly versatile material.=3D2=
0
Be well
Steve M
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Sent from my iPod
On 11 Mar 2012, at 19:12, Steve Slatin wrote:
> Steve -- What you have there is a recipe for cob -- from which
> houses have been built from 100's if not 1000's of years. I
> have participated in mixing/applying a little to a water-heating/bath
> apparatus (with the exhaust vented through a winding pipe also encased
> in cob and formed to be a seat -- nice and toasty on a cold winter
> day!) and my impression is that it's not a good insulator, but
> provides excellent thermal 'inertia' -- it takes a good bit of heat
> to get to temp where something is surrounded by cob, but it
> stays warm for a long, long time (rather like adobe).
> =3D20
> I'd anticipate that the best combination with be a thin sheet of
> high-efficiency insulator (brick or fiber) covered in cob. That'd
> allow the interior temp to rise rapidly and have a long, slow,
> cool after the fire's out.
> =3D20
> Steve Slatin --
>=3D20
>=3D20
> N48.0886450
> W123.1420482
>=3D20
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Mills
> To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Cc:=3D20
> Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2012 11:52 AM
> Subject: Re: Castable, or ramable cement
>=3D20
> I have built very efficient kilns et al out of a mix of:
> 2 parts scrap clay.=3D20
> Enough water to make it soft.=3D20
> 1 part sand.=3D20
> 2 parts chopped straw.=3D20
> Mixed by feet in an old Bath Tub.=3D20
> Applied 4 inches thick over a Basket-work former with a newspaper interf=
a=3D
ce.=3D20
> Dry out the inside with a very small fire until the clay is dry, then bur=
n=3D
out the former.=3D20
> To water- proof, add an outside layer of the same mix 50/50 with cow dung=
a=3D
bout half an inch thick.=3D20
> This technique is called "Wattle & Daub" and has been used forever!
> See "Courses" on my website.=3D20
>=3D20
> :-)
>=3D20
> Steve M
>=3D20
>=3D20
> Steve Mills
> Bath
> UK
Ben Morrison on mon 12 mar 12
Thanks for the run down. I had anticipated it wouldn't be an insulator, but=
=3D
that wasn't a main concern to me in this particular kiln. I'm looking for =
=3D
something I can use to make ports and some special blocks as well as a floo=
=3D
r and a wall. I'm not even planning to build an arch with it, though I know=
=3D
it will hold up in a catenary just fine, or even a sprung arch with suppor=
=3D
t. I'm thinking of using this stuff as a hot face or sacrificial wall in a =
=3D
soda kiln.=3DA0=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A________________________________=3D0A From: S=
teve Slati=3D
n =3D0ATo: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG =3D0ASent: Sund=
ay, =3D
March 11, 2012 12:12 PM=3D0ASubject: Re: Castable, or ramable cement=3D0A =
=3D0ASt=3D
eve -- What you have there is a recipe for cob -- from which=3D0Ahouses hav=
e =3D
been built from 100's if not 1000's of years.=3DA0 I=3D0Ahave participated =
in m=3D
ixing/applying a little to a water-heating/bath=3D0Aapparatus (with the exh=
au=3D
st vented through a winding pipe also encased=3D0Ain cob and formed to be a=
s=3D
eat -- nice and toasty on a cold winter=3D0Aday!) and my impression is that=
i=3D
t's not a good insulator, but =3D0Aprovides excellent thermal 'inertia' -- =
it=3D
takes a good bit of heat=3D0Ato get to temp where something is surrounded =
by=3D
cob, but it=3D0Astays warm for a long, long time (rather like adobe).=3D0A=
=3DA0=3D
=3D0AI'd anticipate that the best combination with be a thin sheet=3DA0 of=
=3D0Ahi=3D
gh-efficiency insulator (brick or fiber) covered in cob.=3DA0 That'd=3D0Aal=
low =3D
the interior=3DA0temp to rise rapidly and=3DA0have a long, slow,=3D0Acool a=
fter t=3D
he fire's out.=3D0A=3DA0=3D0ASteve Slatin -- =3D0A=3D0A=3D0AN48.0886450=3D0=
AW123.1420482 =3D
=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A----- Original Message -----=3D0AFrom: Steve Mills .mudslin=3D
ger@GMAIL.COM>=3D0ATo: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=3D0ACc: =3D0ASent: Sunday, =
March =3D
11, 2012 11:52 AM=3D0ASubject: Re: Castable, or ramable cement=3D0A=3D0AI h=
ave bu=3D
ilt very efficient kilns et al out of a mix of:=3D0A2 parts scrap clay. =3D=
0AEn=3D
ough water to make it soft. =3D0A1 part sand. =3D0A2 parts chopped straw. =
=3D0AMi=3D
xed by feet in an old Bath Tub. =3D0AApplied 4 inches thick=3DA0 over a Bas=
ket-=3D
work former with a newspaper interface. =3D0ADry out the inside with a very=
s=3D
mall fire until the clay is dry, then burn out the former. =3D0ATo water- p=
ro=3D
of, add an outside layer of the same mix 50/50 with cow dung about half an =
=3D
inch thick. =3D0AThis technique is called "Wattle & Daub" and has been used=
f=3D
orever!=3D0ASee "Courses" on my website. =3D0A=3D0A:-)=3D0A=3D0ASteve M=3D0=
A=3D0A=3D0ASteve=3D
Mills=3D0ABath=3D0AUK
Rudy Tucker on wed 14 mar 12
Ben,
Check this site http://www.artistpotters.com/anagama/castable.htm
I have seen in used in a couple of wood fueled kilns and use it my own.
Rudy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Morrison"
To:
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2012 11:53 PM
Subject: Castable, or ramable cement
> My question is this, does anyone have experience with homemade refractory=
?
> Does anyone have a better recipe than what I've listed here for kiln wall=
s
> and floor?
| |
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