jim wightman on fri 6 jan 12
Hello Everyone,
I have an L&L computerized kiln and I'm getting ready to fire my first load
of pots with commercial ceramic decals on them. I can fine a lot of info on
how high to fire but not on how to program the firing. I plan on firing to
^018. Does anyone have a program they use with success? The L&L doesn't
have a "medium" setting which was recommended by a number of folks - I'm
guessing they use a Skutt.
I also have decals that I made on a printer and I've combined them with
commercial decals. Is it going to be a problem firing them on the same pot?
Thanks for your help!
Karen Nakakihara
Alpine, TX where it's windy and dry as a bone :o(
Snail Scott on fri 6 jan 12
On Jan 6, 2012, at 10:28 AM, jim wightman wrote:
> I have an L&L computerized kiln and I'm getting ready to fire my first lo=
ad
> of pots with commercial ceramic decals on them. I can fine a lot of info =
on
> how high to fire but not on how to program the firing. I plan on firing t=
o
> ^018...
It doesn't matter. Seriously. You are only
affecting the outermost surface of an already-
fired object, at a very low temp - barely into
red heat. In a manual kiln, I'd just flick it
straight to 'high' unless the load is really
tight. A programmable kiln actually makes it
more complicated than it needs to be, by
almost requiring unnecessary ramps,
candling phases, and suchlike.
Don't sweat it. 'Fast Glaze' or whichever
setting is easiest on your kiln will do nicely.
-Snail
jd.steveni@COMCAST.NET on fri 6 jan 12
Hi Jim and Listers,
I use a Skutt 1027 to 824 degree C. all bungs in and top down; and use a sm=
aller elderly Duncan using Orton pyrometric bar in kiln sitter to ^016 -- b=
ungs in and top down, dial turned to High. I get excellent results with lus=
ters at these temps too so I often combine techniques. I don't soak/hold. =
Just up and down. Be sure to vent as the fumes are niffy and toxic. Can't h=
elp with home-made decals tips, but why not try one in with commercial deca=
ls. I also use decals I had made up using cobalt with a wide firing range d=
epending on the under glaze. I have examples of current work on my wordpres=
s blog and on website. Feel free to comment.
Can't recall who posted about their PP VPM-9 recent purchase in early Decem=
ber. Inspired me to take care of my 24 hours away from 70 year old wrists! =
Thanks for that. I built a rolling platform but decided to make space on wo=
rk surface. I bought reconditioned from PP which suits the type of clay I u=
se, as there's been recognition of the alkaline effects of porcelain on the=
inner gubbins resulting in spitout, and so there's a stainless steel model=
out for porcelain users. Mine hasn't had its maiden voyage yet. Taking car=
e of other studio jobs.I've read the manual through several times so when t=
hings start up I'm prepared.
Also in the nature of taking care of the body, I've bought leg extensions f=
or the Stuart, as I've got an occasional nerve thingy in left buttock which=
I can pad out with upholstery foam in the motor and at computer, but sitti=
ng for wheel work gets naggy. Someone else recently asked/mentioned about l=
eg extensions and I reckon at the right height I'll be okay. I can stand fo=
r hours and hours. I checked out a John Britt YouTube video -- very nice! =
-- and John was standing as well.
HNY 2012.
Dinah
Mount Vernon, WA.
www.dinahsnipessteveni.com
www.dinahsnipessteveni.wordpress.com
"To obtain a certain thing, you have to become a certain person."
Zen Buddhist saying
Fredrick Paget on fri 6 jan 12
>Hello Everyone,
>
>I have an L&L computerized kiln and I'm getting ready to fire my first loa=
d
>of pots with commercial ceramic decals on them. I can fine a lot of info o=
n
>how high to fire but not on how to program the firing. I plan on firing to
>^018. Does anyone have a program they use with success? The L&L doesn't
>have a "medium" setting which was recommended by a number of folks - I'm
>guessing they use a Skutt.
>
>I also have decals that I made on a printer and I've combined them with
>commercial decals. Is it going to be a problem firing them on the same pot=
?
>
>Thanks for your help!
>
>Karen Nakakihara
>Alpine, TX where it's windy and dry as a bone :o(
Karen,
You will have a problem in combining commercial decals with laser
printer decals using iron toner. The commercial decals are pretty low
fire - anything from cone 020 to 015. The iron toner decals have no
flux in them so you need to melt the glaze under them enough to fuse
the iron into the glaze or if you put them on unfired clay or bisque
you need to fire to maturity for the clay.
So this suggests that you should do it in stages. Put glaze on the
bisque first and fire, then apply the iron decals, fire the iron
decals hot enough to soften the glaze and that will set the iron.
Last put on the commercial decals and low fire. If you glaze on top
of the iron decals you will probably bleach them although there are
said to be some glazes that do not bleach the iron. Iron decals on
bisque can look very good reduction fired to cone 9 but leave them
bare.
Also don't forget that most commercial decals are made using lead
based color so keep them away from food surfaces.
Some decals made on color laser printers using the Zimmer or Baltea D
C toners are said to be lead free but the silk screen colors in most
of the older process decals are lead base. It is very hard to get a
good red without lead.
Decal firing is not finiky. The fast glaze setting of my Bartlett
controller is fine. Venting is a good idea as you are burning off the
overcoat of the commercial decals.
Last check the toner in the laser printer before you buy it by making
a test . A lot of the newer printers use a different black that
will burn out. HP has used iron in the past but you never know -
Test!
Even a paper test print can be tested by carefully burning it and if
the image is iron you will see it on the ash as the flame consumes
the paper.
--
Fred Paget
Twin Dragon Studio
Mill Valley, CA, USA
fredrick@well.com
Charter Member Potters Council
Steve Slatin on fri 6 jan 12
Karen -- Other posters I believe are missing that it's a computerized kiln.=
=3D
=3D0A=3DA0=3D0AL&L computerized kilns are dead easy to program -- get out t=
he man=3D
ual=3D0Ato actually learn how to do it; you can program them to fire either=
t=3D
o a =3D0Aparticular temperature or to a particular cone.=3DA0 Since you kno=
w al=3D
ready=3D0Athat you need cone 018, take advantage of that.=3D0A=3DA0=3D0AFor=
my L&L,=3D
an 'Easyfire', the process is --=3D0A=3DA0=3D0A1 - plug in and turn on the=
kiln=3D
=3D0A2 - Wait for the controller to start to cycle between "1dle" and Tc2 a=
nd=3D
the=3D0Atemperature (this will not appear accurate because of the offset)=
=3D0A=3D
3 - Press the button marked "Fast Glaze" (or slow, if that's what you prefe=
=3D
r)=3D0A4 - The display will flash "Cone" and then whatever cone it was last=
f=3D
ired to=3D0A5 - enter a zero, a one, and an eight -- now it should alternat=
e =3D
between the =3D0Aword "cone" and "018"=3D0A6 - Press "Enter" and then "Star=
t"=3D
=3D0A=3DA0=3D0AI recommend using self-supporting cones near the spy holes (=
and go=3D
od=3D0Aeye protection) to tell when you're up to temperature.=3DA0 =3D0A=3D=
A0=3D0AThe=3D
controller makes it possible to add preheat (probably not needed=3D0Ahere)=
a=3D
"hold" at the top temperature (ditto) and a delay before starting.=3D0AIt'=
s =3D
really no harder than a modern computerized oven.=3D0A=3D0ASteve Slatin -- =
=3D0A=3D
=3D0A=3D0AN48.0886450=3D0AW123.1420482=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A______________________=
__________=3D
=3D0AHello Everyone,=3D0A=3D0AI have an L&L computerized kiln and I'm getti=
ng rea=3D
dy to fire my first load=3D0Aof pots with commercial ceramic decals on them=
. =3D
I can fine a lot of info on=3D0Ahow high to fire but not on how to program =
th=3D
e firing. I plan on firing to=3D0A^018. Does anyone have a program they use=
w=3D
ith success? The L&L doesn't=3D0Ahave a "medium" setting which was recommen=
de=3D
d by a number of folks - I'm=3D0Aguessing they use a Skutt.=3D0A=3D0AI also=
have =3D
decals that I made on a printer and I've combined them with=3D0Acommercial =
de=3D
cals. Is it going to be a problem firing them on the same pot?=3D0A=3D0ATha=
nks =3D
for your help!=3D0A=3D0AKaren Nakakihara=3D0AAlpine, TX where it's windy an=
d dry =3D
as a bone :o(
marci Boskie's Mama =3D^..^=3D on sat 7 jan 12
>Karen said :
>I can fine a lot of info on
>how high to fire but not on how to program the firing. I plan on firing to
>^018. Does anyone have a program they use with success?(snip)
>I also have decals that I made on a printer and I've combined them with
>commercial decals. Is it going to be a problem firing them on the same pot=
?
-------------
With chinapaint or decals at 018 , you dont have to worry about
how fast to fire.. Like everyone who has replied to this has said,
its dead easy . You have a lot of leeway with a low fire ( the range
can go anywhere from cone 018 ( approximately 1320 F / 715 C )to
cone 015 ( approximately 1480 F / 800 C )or even higher and you ll be fin=
e..
In my large kiln , I use the cone function with the controller and
just select whatever cone I want.. ( If that isnt covered in your
manual , Paragon has some great videos and with kind permission from
Arnold Howard... thanks, Arnold, we have posted many of those on our
PPIO chinapainters forum at www.PPIOforum.com in the THE BASICS:HOW
TO section .
( Link for the kiln videos is : http://ppioforum.com/viewforum.php?f=3D14
I also have the Paragon Home Artist , which I LOVE and with that , I
program the controller to go full tilt boogie : Set it to fire ramps
instead of cones...then program the first ramp for 9999 degrees /
hour , temp to 1320F or 1480F depending on what Im doing, no hold ,
next ramp set to 0 ... this will fire the kiln as fast as it can go
... and I can fire a load in about 45-50 minutes . ( I can give you
absolute specifics on what to do .. what buttons to hit.. just email me )
Make sure you vent well in the beginning until the fumes are burnt away.
As for the two types of decals , Fred said:
"You will have a problem in combining commercial decals with laser
printer decals using iron toner. The commercial decals are pretty low
fire - anything from cone 020 to 015. The iron toner decals have no
flux in them so you need to melt the glaze under them enough to fuse
the iron into the glaze or if you put them on unfired clay or bisque
you need to fire to maturity for the clay."
This is true... BUT , you can flux the iron decal by either
painting on a thin coat of chinapainting flux , clear chinapainting
glaze ( which is actually a low fire flux ) or any color of
chinapaint and firing to chinapainting temps before applying the
decal . There is enough flux in any or all of those to allow the iron
in the laser print decal to stick at a low fire . I also checked
Terrie Banzahi's directions on the forum
http://ppioforum.com/viewforum.php?f=3D379 and it looks like you can
apply the decal, then cover coat it with the chinapainting flux,
clear chinapainting glaze or chinapaint before firing to
chinapainting temps. Most of the chinapainting dealers who carry
chinapaint will carry some sort of flux or clear chinapainting
glaze. ( Flux, glaze and chinapaint are all sold in powder form.
Mix with mineral oil or glycerin to a paintable consistency .)
marci the chinapainter
Rimas VisGirda on sat 7 jan 12
I fire open stock decals and lustres to cones 018-016 depending on whether =
=3D
they are applied on low or high fired ware. 018 for cones 05-2 ware and 016=
=3D
for stoneware and porcelain. Some commercial decals fade if fired higher. =
=3D
I also have computerized kilns and fire on FAST GLAZE FIRE setting, I have =
=3D
seen factory situations where a 3 hour cycle was used from into the kiln to=
=3D
unloading. My kilns are vented so I shut everything up and let the vent ru=
=3D
n for the entire firing. Before my kilns were vented I would leave the lid =
=3D
ajar about an inch until the interior got past red heat in order for the bu=
=3D
rning cover coat on the decals or the oils from the lustres to escape, then=
=3D
close the lid to finish the firing. Occasionally I missed shutting the lid=
=3D
and the kiln clicked off but that didn't hurt anything, just cooled faster=
=3D
I think. I have gotten into the habit of thinking that decals and lustres =
=3D
like a clean atmosphere... It is a good idea to let decaled ware sit
overnight for the water that is trapped by capillary action to migrate out=
=3D
from between the decal and glaze. Laser decals are a whole other animal an=
=3D
d typically require a higher temperature firing; if underfired the image wi=
=3D
ll wipe off the glaze surface, If overfired the iron can be assimilated by =
=3D
the glaze to leave a sunken weak image. Laser decals need to be fired to a =
=3D
temperature where the glaze just gets tacky enough to grab the iron but not=
=3D
so high as to dissolve it; the optimal temperature is usually different fo=
=3D
r each glaze. -Rimas=3D0A=3D0ADate:=3DA0 =3DA0 Fri, 6 Jan 2012 10:28:07 -06=
00=3D0AFro=3D
m:=3DA0 =3DA0 jim wightman =3D0ASubject: firing sched=
ule fo=3D
r commercial ceramic decals and gold lustre=3D0A=3D0AHello Everyone,=3D0A=
=3D0AI hav=3D
e an L&L computerized kiln and I'm getting ready to fire my first load=3D0A=
of=3D
pots with commercial ceramic decals on them. I can fine a lot of info on=
=3D
=3D0Ahow high to fire but not on how to program the firing. I plan on firin=
g =3D
to=3D0A^018. Does anyone have a program they use with success? The L&L does=
n'=3D
t=3D0Ahave a "medium" setting which was recommended by a number of folks - =
I'=3D
m=3D0Aguessing they use a Skutt.=3D0A=3D0AI also have decals that I made on=
a pri=3D
nter and I've combined them with=3D0Acommercial decals. Is it going to be a=
p=3D
roblem firing them on the same pot?=3D0A=3D0AThanks for your help!=3D0A=3D0=
AKaren N=3D
akakihara=3D0AAlpine, TX where it's windy and dry as a bone :o(=3D0A
jim wightman on sun 8 jan 12
CLAYART IS THE BEST!!! I just opened my kiln and the firing was a success!
Thanks to everyone who responded to my email.
Cheers,
Karen Nakakihara
Alpine, TX
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