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cone 6 wood?=3d?utf-8?q?=3de2=3d80=3d8f/flamethrower_?=3d tech=

updated thu 1 dec 11


gary navarre on wed 30 nov 11


=C2 I think one thing I did wrong with this kiln is =3D

Thanks Claudia,=3D0A=3D0A=3DC2=3DA0I think one thing I did wrong with this =
kiln is =3D
stoking to many sticks all the way into the side holes and not leaving the =
brick ajar for an air supply. I did it right in my smaller version in the l=
ate '80's ...=3D0A=3D0A
/ss.html=3D0A=3DC2=3DA0=3D0A=3DC2=3DA0... but this kiln is larger so I put =
a hole in th=3D
e door ...=3D0A=3D0A
ml##media=3D0A=3D0A... where you can see the soap grate bricks after the bu=
rn .=3D
a=3D0A=3D0A... another in about the middle ...=3D0A=3D0Ahttp://public.fotki=
daUP/ca/kpap/upwdfk011-3/secondary-stoke-2.html=3D0A=3D0A... and after that=
ing decided to add another near the tail ...=3D0A=3D0Ahttp://public.fotki.c=
indaUP/ca/kpap/upwdfk011-3/third-secondary-2.html=3D0A=3D0ATiming is of the=
ence so I imagine knowing when to start side stoking would be key but it wa=
s a long time ago so I don't recall if the front was ^9 and I increased it =
along with side stoking or waited until ^11 and I held it by filling the Bo=
urry with big stuff and add to the heat with side stoking. What I think I'l=
l do after I see ^11-12 (or 14?) down in front is fill the back of the Bour=
ry with bigger hardwood to hold it and stoke skinny sticks in the front of =
the Bourry above the throat arch to send a blast into the crown where I pic=
k it up with the door stoke and a bit later hit the middle and then the tai=
l. If I get lucky maybe Peter will come over and keep the Bourry full ...=
=3D0A=3D0A so I =
can attend=3D
the side stoking and fool with the active damper, passive air ports, and t=
he chimney cap. That's a whole 'nother topic too but I got other stuff on t=
he do list with no honey so I better get to doin something else even if som=
e of it might be wrong. At least it helps my appetite so I'm gonna have som=
ething to eat. Hash and eggs sounds good eh? Stay in there and don't let th=
em fool ya.=3D0A=3D0A=3D0AGary Navarre=3D0ANavarre Pottery=3D0ANavarre Ente=
Norway, Michigan, USA=3D0A
____________________=3D0A From: Claudia MacPhee =
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG =3D0ASent: Tuesday, November 29, 2011 10:34 PM=
=3D0ASubject: Re: [Clayart] Cone 6 Wood?=3DE2=3D80=3D8F/Flamethrower Techn=
ique=3D0A =3D
=3D0A=3DC2=3DA0 Flamethrowing. Check out the Ozzie site
That =3D
is where I found out about it. I use really thin ling pieces, slivered like=
kindling about 25 inches long, two or three pieces. Right after I fill the=
bourry box=3D0AI open the brick, insert the wood but still hang on to it a=
let it start to blow up, push it in until it hangs on the edge of the kiln=
, reinsert the brick at an angle so the air draws right onto the wood.=3D0A=
lding the brick in my hands I let it rip for a minute or so then put the br=
ick completely back in.=3D0A=3D0A=3DC2=3DA0 When I had my training for our =
r fire Dept many years ago the first thing they taught was the 'fire triang=
le'. Fuel, source of ignition and oxygen. Remove any of the corners and you=
don't have a fire.=3D0AThe draft of the kiln pulls that thin stream of air=
nside and causes major turbulence. The flame seems to go back towards the f=
ront of the kiln and the heat really builds where you need it. At least tha=
t is how I=3D0Athink it works. I know it works way better than just chuckin=
g =3D
in a couple of pieces and replacing the brick. Without using it I hardly go=
t to cone 6 in the back. With it I can easily melt cone 11.=3D0A=3D0AI also=
d your blog regularly Mike.=3D0A=3D0AClaudia MacPhee Tagish, Yukon=3D0Awww.=