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replacing lead

updated sun 20 nov 11

 

Lili Krakowski on fri 18 nov 11


Having exchanged messages, compared "notes" with potters looking for the =
=3D
same answer--none of us yet has found a way to replace the LOOK of lead =3D
in a glaze. =3D20

And, although I know less than zero about lead glazed Raku, I expect the =
=3D
same applies to it as to other lead glazes.

If I whine and protest the use of the term "majolica" for contemporary =3D
glazes that are indeed white, indeed shiny, indeed low fired, it is that =
=3D
they do not achieve the true majolica look that, as far as anyone I know =
=3D
knows cannot be achieved except with a tin opacified lead glaze.

Yes, there are some really nice white shiny earthenware glazes out =3D
there, most of them calcium borates. Close, but no cigar. Many of =3D
these glazes "take" colorants the way majolica glazes did. Again. =3D
Close, but no cigar.

The "best" I have found so far is a tidge of a yellow or peach stain, or =
=3D
rutile, in the glaze. And, if opacified, opacified with tin.. It gives =
=3D
a hint of the "glow" of lead glazes. =3D20

But the true majolica look went with lead.

My analogy is the substitutes suggested in cookbooks that try to =3D
eliminate cholesterol. They suggest such horrors as whipping up =3D
fat-free cottage cheese to "replace" whipped cream; using margarine =3D
instead of butter; and on an on. It does not work. If you want to =3D
eliminate whipped cream, shun it. There is no substitute. Even a =3D
little aioli is better than margarine on your toast...etc.

One cannot replicate lead glazes--but there are plenty of other nice =3D
glazes out there.




Lili Krakowski
Be of good courage

Randall Moody on fri 18 nov 11


On Fri, Nov 18, 2011 at 12:56 PM, Lili Krakowski
wrote:
> Having exchanged messages, compared "notes" with potters looking for the =
=3D
same answer--none of us yet has found a way to replace the LOOK of lead in =
=3D
a glaze.
>
> And, although I know less than zero about lead glazed Raku, I expect the =
=3D
same applies to it as to other lead glazes.
>
> If I whine and protest the use of the term "majolica" for =3DA0contempora=
ry=3D
glazes that are indeed white, indeed shiny, indeed low fired, it is that t=
=3D
hey do not achieve the true majolica look that, as far as anyone I know kno=
=3D
ws cannot be achieved except with a tin opacified lead glaze.
>
> Yes, there are some really nice white shiny earthenware glazes out there,=
=3D
most of them calcium borates. =3DA0Close, but no cigar. =3DA0Many of these=
gla=3D
zes "take" colorants the way majolica glazes did. =3DA0Again. Close, but no=
c=3D
igar.
>
> The "best" I have found so far is a tidge of a yellow or peach stain, or =
=3D
rutile, in the glaze. =3DA0And, if opacified, opacified with tin.. =3DA0It =
give=3D
s a hint of the "glow" of lead glazes.
>
> But the true majolica look went with lead.
>
> My analogy is the substitutes suggested in cookbooks that try to eliminat=
=3D
e cholesterol. =3DA0They suggest such horrors as whipping up fat-free cotta=
ge=3D
cheese to "replace" whipped cream; using margarine instead of butter; and =
=3D
on an on. =3DA0It does not work. =3DA0If you want to eliminate whipped crea=
m, s=3D
hun =3DA0it. =3DA0There is no substitute. =3DA0Even a little aioli is bette=
r than=3D
margarine on your toast...etc.
>
> One =3DA0cannot replicate lead glazes--but there are plenty of other nice=
g=3D
lazes out there.
>
>
>
>
> Lili Krakowski
> Be of good courage
>

I believe that Robin Hopper covered the use of lead in his NCECA talk.
I believe that he said that if you remove lead from your glaze
ingredients you limit your palette by 80%. (I could have that number
wrong but the point is the same.) It is my opinion that if used for
ware that is not intended for food and with proper labeling, the use
of lead shouldn't be an issue. I would probably put a disclaimer
inside the foot ring or on the bottom in the overglaze so that it
isn't removable. This, of course, means that the handling of the
material is safe.

--=3D20
Randall in Atlanta
http://wrandallmoody.com

Des & Jan Howard on sat 19 nov 11


Randall
I've started making earthenware glazed pots for the
first time in 42 years. They are mugs, jugs, general
liquid containers. Lead bisilicate frit plus copper on
the outside, alkaline frit plus copper & iron on
inside. Lead glazes are the only way to achieve the
colour response of the medieval galena ore/copper
filings glazed pots I'm using as a reference. As for
handling safety, caution enables, fear disables.
Des

On 19/11/2011 6:24 AM, Randall Moody wrote:
> It is my opinion that if used for
> ware that is not intended for food and with proper labeling, the use
> of lead shouldn't be an issue. I would probably put a disclaimer
> inside the foot ring or on the bottom in the overglaze so that it
> isn't removable. This, of course, means that the handling of the
> material is safe.


--
Des & Jan Howard
Lue Pottery
Lue NSW
Australia
2850

02 6373 6419
www.luepottery.hwy.com.au
-32.656072 149.840624

ivor and olive lewis on sat 19 nov 11


Dear Lili Krakowski,

Without doubt Lead silicate glazes have properties that have made them
desirable for more than two millennia. Mined as Galena by the Romans in the
Peak District of England and augmented by Tin, in the form of Cassiterite,
from Cornwall, their transparency without opacifies and brilliant
reflections as well as their colour responses gave them a jewel like
quality.

What puzzles me is that our literature never seems to explore the reasons
for these properties. Perhaps it is a fear of numbers, so necessary when
using concepts from the physical sciences, that limits our understanding.
Overcome this fear and a substitute may be discovered.

Those who have the financial resources for testing should be able to create
low solubility Lead Glazes and continue to exploit Tin opacified Majolica o=
f
great beauty

Sincere regards,

Ivor Lewis,
REDHILL,
South Australia