search  current discussion  categories  techniques - cracking 

cracking plates and like that.

updated wed 6 apr 11

 

Lili Krakowski on tue 5 apr 11


Some advice gleaned last century-- (I love saying that). Grate a lump =3D
of grogged leather hard clay on an old- fashioned grater (25 cents at =3D
thrift store) Using the large holes one gets clay pellets the size of a =
=3D
pea. When the pellets are done, roll them with the palm of your hand, =3D
so they get round and burr-free. Fire them. After that put them under =3D
plates and platters in the bisque so that they act as roller =3D
bearings.....

Also. In my admittedly limited experience the thickness of the "heel" =3D
of a pot, especially plates and platters has a strong influence on the =3D
bottom, and its potential cracking.

There seems to be no special term for the point at which the horizontal =3D
bottom of a pot meets the rising, vertical side. Any knitter will =3D
understand why I use the word "heel" and speak of "turning the heel" =3D
when I teach throwing.

However. The side, the flange, PULL on the bottom of the plate, and if =
=3D
they are not well co-ordinated can tear the bottom apart. If my plates =3D
were cracking I would cut a few in half leatherhard and see if the heel =3D
is too thick in relation to the bottom. Kristina says her plate bottoms =
=3D
are 1/4 " thick...which may be too thin for what she is doing, clay she =3D
is using....

If you want an analogy, remember when Mother told you not to rock on her =
=3D
side chairs? Tilting them on their back legs? Because, sylph that you =3D
indubitably are, you weigh too much for the joint where chair bottom =3D
meets chair back? Remember how you did not listen? Remember how =3D
furious Mother was?


Lili Krakowski
Be of good courage