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good slip needed for hakeme

updated sat 15 may 10

 

David Beumee on thu 13 may 10


Hi Bruce,
Many clay bodies make suitable slip for hakeme. Allow clay body trimmings
to dry completely, then put them in water and allow to slake overnight. Nex=
t
morning, decant the excess water and drill mix; add water back in to taste.
I find that it works best to screen the slurry to get a richer mix. If you
have trouble with the slip cracking, you can start with this recipe: 30 Cla=
y
Body
70 Ball Clay

Mix dry clay body trimmings with the ball clay of your choice, then follow
the same procedure. Allow time for the mixture to slake in water, then
decant extra water off the top before drill mixing. Then add water back in
to taste and screen. I aim for a slip consistency that will allow for a
pencil to stand up in the slurry. Then it's time to have some fun! If you
are using an iron rich clay body, you might think about using a lighter
colored slip, like a white stoneware or porcelain slip to provide a nice
compliment to the body color.

David Beumee
Porcelain by David Beumee
Lafayette, CO












On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 1:45 PM, Bruce Bowers wrote:

> Hi All,
> I need to come up with a good slip formula for hakeme work.
> I know that this is a demanding discipline and want to start out on the
> right foot with it.
> I have made some rice straw brushes and think they are a step in the righ=
t
> direction.
> All work will be on fairly iron rich bodies and will be wood fired with
> either a celedon or thin shino liner.
> Any suggestions?
> Thanks in advance.
> Bruce Bowers
> _www.bowerswoodfireandpics.com_ (http://www.bowerswoodfireandpics.com)
>

Bruce Bowers on thu 13 may 10


Hi All,
I need to come up with a good slip formula for hakeme work.
I know that this is a demanding discipline and want to start out on the
right foot with it.
I have made some rice straw brushes and think they are a step in the right
direction.
All work will be on fairly iron rich bodies and will be wood fired with
either a celedon or thin shino liner.
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
Bruce Bowers
_www.bowerswoodfireandpics.com_ (http://www.bowerswoodfireandpics.com)

Lee Love on thu 13 may 10


Bruce,

Rhodes' crackle will work. Doesn't crackle on bisque. I
use Continental's Super White white stoneware body, buy it dry. It
melts quicker than the fireclay body I use and so gives mat glazes a
nice sheen.

The secret IS the straw brush.

--
Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/

=3D93Observe the wonders as they occur around you. Don't claim them. Feel
the artistry moving through and be silent.=3D94 --Rumi

Eric Hansen on fri 14 may 10


maybe xxsagger

On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 3:45 PM, Bruce Bowers wrote:

> Hi All,
> I need to come up with a good slip formula for hakeme work.
> I know that this is a demanding discipline and want to start out on the
> right foot with it.
> I have made some rice straw brushes and think they are a step in the righ=
t
> direction.
> All work will be on fairly iron rich bodies and will be wood fired with
> either a celedon or thin shino liner.
> Any suggestions?
> Thanks in advance.
> Bruce Bowers
> _www.bowerswoodfireandpics.com_ (http://www.bowerswoodfireandpics.com)
>

Edouard Bastarache on fri 14 may 10


David what you say makes sense.
I use Plainsman H-440 to make a brown slip,
I use Plainsman H-435 to make a light one,
then i color H-435 wiht cobalt for a blue one
and copper oxide for a green to red one.

Check out the results :

http://www.flickr.com/photos/potier/27141837/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/potier/27008660/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/potier/59535613/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/potier/99390162/


My theory is that these 2 clays must have some raw
ingredients in common since they come from the same
maker and this probaly helps the fit,,,

Gis,

Edouard Bastarache
Spertesperantisto

Sorel-Tracy
Quebec

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30058682@N00/
http://edouardbastarache.blogspot.com/
http://blogsalbertbastarache.blogspot.com/
http://cerampeintures.blogspot.com/
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/smart2000/index.htm




----- Original Message -----
From: "David Beumee"
To:
Cc:
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 11:15 PM
Subject: Re: Good Slip Needed for Hakeme


> Hi Bruce,
> Many clay bodies make suitable slip for hakeme. Allow clay body trimming=
s
> to dry completely, then put them in water and allow to slake overnight.
> Next
> morning, decant the excess water and drill mix; add water back in to
> taste.
> I find that it works best to screen the slurry to get a richer mix. If yo=
u
> have trouble with the slip cracking, you can start with this recipe: 30
> Clay
> Body
> 70 Ball Clay
>
> Mix dry clay body trimmings with the ball clay of your choice, then follo=
w
> the same procedure. Allow time for the mixture to slake in water, then
> decant extra water off the top before drill mixing. Then add water back i=
n
> to taste and screen. I aim for a slip consistency that will allow for a
> pencil to stand up in the slurry. Then it's time to have some fun! If you
> are using an iron rich clay body, you might think about using a lighter
> colored slip, like a white stoneware or porcelain slip to provide a nice
> compliment to the body color.
>
> David Beumee
> Porcelain by David Beumee
> Lafayette, CO
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 1:45 PM, Bruce Bowers wrote:
>
>> Hi All,
>> I need to come up with a good slip formula for hakeme work.
>> I know that this is a demanding discipline and want to start out on the
>> right foot with it.
>> I have made some rice straw brushes and think they are a step in the
>> right
>> direction.
>> All work will be on fairly iron rich bodies and will be wood fired with
>> either a celedon or thin shino liner.
>> Any suggestions?
>> Thanks in advance.
>> Bruce Bowers
>> _www.bowerswoodfireandpics.com_ (http://www.bowerswoodfireandpics.com)
>>
>

Eric Hansen on fri 14 may 10


Bruce: another good one is slop from your slop bucket. The way I work on th=
e
wheel, I am always cleaning up the excess mess as well as using the sponge
periodically. This tends to result in the very fine clay particles in the
slop bucket. This makes great, smooth engobe even though it is going to
shrink a bit more than the clay body, the engobe will be under tension,
which is better than under torsion.

XX Sagger alone is much like the 70/30 mix of clay body and ball clay. It i=
s
less plastic and has less shrinkage than other ball clays, and is makes an
excellent white. It is a ball clay that has some kaolin-like properties.
h a n s e n