ivor & olive lewis on mon 8 feb 10
The problem encountered by Susan Hirsch revived an idea I learned about whe=
n
Ladybower Reservoir was being built in North Derbyshire.
In contrast to designs of two previous reservoirs constructed to exploit th=
e
River Derwent, which were curtain rock barriers, Ladybower dam was to be an
earth embankment lined with "Puddled Clay", a material known for its abilit=
y
to resist water infiltration and leakage.
I can find no reference in my three Ceramic Dictionaries
Is "Puddled Clay" just another name for plastic clay? If it is not, what
confers its ability to resist the transit of water ?
Ideas anyone?
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis,
Redhill,
South Australia
Frances Howard on mon 8 feb 10
Dear Ivor
Wouldn't "puddled clay" refer to the action of working it rather than the
clay itself? Like puddled concrete which is concrete slapped/paddled to
raise the fine particles to make a smoother surface. At least that is what
I've always presumed, I'm not a scientist. I always think of burnishing a=
s
a form of puddling too. It would be interesting to know what was done to
the clay in the Ladybower reservoir after it was deposited. I didn't know
it was built like that though, there can't be many with that sort of
embankment.
I wouldn't be surprised if something similar wasn't done in the Somerset
flats/marshes too when they built all those canals in the, when, 17th, 18th
century? Lots of clay there. Now we have to research early canal building
methods! Pottery takes you everywhere doesn't it!
As an aside any verb with ...le at the end usually implies continuous
action, like twinkle, tickle, grumble. And paddle/puddle.
Frances Howard
--------------------------------------------------
From: "ivor & olive lewis"
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 11:20 PM
To:
Subject: Puddled Clay
> The problem encountered by Susan Hirsch revived an idea I learned about
> when
> Ladybower Reservoir was being built in North Derbyshire.
> In contrast to designs of two previous reservoirs constructed to exploit
> the
> River Derwent, which were curtain rock barriers, Ladybower dam was to be
> an
> earth embankment lined with "Puddled Clay", a material known for its
> ability
> to resist water infiltration and leakage.
> I can find no reference in my three Ceramic Dictionaries
> Is "Puddled Clay" just another name for plastic clay? If it is not, what
> confers its ability to resist the transit of water ?
> Ideas anyone?
>
> Best regards,
> Ivor Lewis,
> Redhill,
> South Australia
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 9.0.733 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2675 - Release Date: 02/08/10
> 03:35:00
>
Lee Love on mon 8 feb 10
Bentonite is used this way.
--
Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
=3D93Observe the wonders as they occur around you. Don't claim them. Feel
the artistry moving through and be silent.=3D94 --Rumi
William & Susan Schran User on mon 8 feb 10
Ivor,
I have read bentonite has been used to prevent leakage in land fills and
also used to prevent water infiltration in underground homes.
Having observed how bentonite acts when introduced to water, I suspect this
may be your puddled clay.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
On 2/7/10 10:20 PM, "ivor & olive lewis" wrote:
> The problem encountered by Susan Hirsch revived an idea I learned about w=
hen
> Ladybower Reservoir was being built in North Derbyshire.
> In contrast to designs of two previous reservoirs constructed to exploit =
the
> River Derwent, which were curtain rock barriers, Ladybower dam was to be =
an
> earth embankment lined with "Puddled Clay", a material known for its abil=
ity
> to resist water infiltration and leakage.
> I can find no reference in my three Ceramic Dictionaries
> Is "Puddled Clay" just another name for plastic clay? If it is not, what
> confers its ability to resist the transit of water ?
> Ideas anyone?
>
> Best regards,
> Ivor Lewis,
> Redhill,
> South Australia
Clay on tue 9 feb 10
Ivor (LEWIS) wrote about puddled clay:
SNIP
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2010 13:50:41 +1030
From: ivor & olive lewis
Subject: Puddled Clay
Ladybower dam was to be an earth embankment lined with "Puddled Clay", a
material known for its ability to resist water infiltration and leakage.
I can find no reference in my three Ceramic Dictionaries
Is "Puddled Clay" just another name for plastic clay? If it is not, what
confers its ability to resist the transit of water ?
Ideas anyone?
SNIP
My understanding of puddled clay is that it was trodden into straw.
This might well change the pH of a clay/straw layer and thus change its
colloidal nature. ..perhaps analogous to the pan layer in a podzol.
I'm sure someone out there can explain this.
Ivor (the other one)
I J Townshend
in Macclesfield UK
Lis Allison on tue 9 feb 10
On Tuesday 09 February 2010, you wrote:
> Ivor (LEWIS) wrote about puddled clay:
> SNIP
> Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2010 13:50:41 +1030
> From: ivor & olive lewis
> Subject: Puddled Clay
> Ladybower dam was to be an earth embankment lined with "Puddled Clay",
> a material known for its ability to resist water infiltration and
> leakage. I can find no reference in my three Ceramic Dictionaries
> Is "Puddled Clay" just another name for plastic clay? If it is not,
> what confers its ability to resist the transit of water ?
> Ideas anyone?
>
Isn't puddled clay just clay that has been worked? If you tried to line a
pond with dry clay, it would wash away. If you tried to line a pond with
very soft clay, it would sink to the bottom. But if you had clay worked to
something like throw-able consistency, you could pack it where you wanted
it and it would stay put and would resist water passing through. Some
water would of course always seep through, but not much and the water
would keep the clay about right.
An interesting thing is that once the area under and around a pond gets
saturated far enough, the back pressure from the ground water around it
becomes a balancing force and no more water escapes. Of course, in serious
droughts, all bets are off.
Just a guess. I have a book about earth ponds and that is what is
recommends.
Lis
--
Elisabeth Allison
Pine Ridge Studio
www.Pine-Ridge-Studio.blogspot.com
Fred Parker on tue 9 feb 10
Hello Ivor:
It has already been revealed, but here is an additional data point:
Here in the Deep South of the U.S. farm ponds are often lined with benton=
=3D
ite
to "seal" them where natural soil porosity would otherwise allow too much=
=3D
percolation.
Fred Parker
On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 13:50:41 +1030, ivor & olive lewis
wrote:
>The problem encountered by Susan Hirsch revived an idea I learned about =
=3D
when
>Ladybower Reservoir was being built in North Derbyshire.
>In contrast to designs of two previous reservoirs constructed to exploit=
=3D
the
>River Derwent, which were curtain rock barriers, Ladybower dam was to be=
=3D
an
>earth embankment lined with "Puddled Clay", a material known for its abi=
=3D
lity
>to resist water infiltration and leakage.
>I can find no reference in my three Ceramic Dictionaries
>Is "Puddled Clay" just another name for plastic clay? If it is not, wha=
=3D
t
>confers its ability to resist the transit of water ?
>Ideas anyone?
>
>Best regards,
>Ivor Lewis,
>Redhill,
>South Australia
Edouard Bastarache on tue 9 feb 10
Book: Waterways & Wetlands
Chapter: 7 Artificial linings
Section: Puddled clay
Metadata: Details Buy this book
Puddled clay is the traditional material for lining canals and other
artificial waterways, as well as for repairing leaks in earth dams, and
sealing joints between concrete and earth banks.
To puddle simply means to pound clay and water together in a dense mass
which resists water penetration. Puddling breaks down the structure of the
clay, closing fissures and forcing out air bubbles. The clay becomes very
plastic, just as happens when it is made into pottery.
Puddling of the clay which lines the canal system in Britain was done by
driving flocks of sheep into sections of the constructed and lined canal, s=
o
their trampling puddled the clay. Dew ponds and other small water bodies
were puddled by sheep or human feet. Mechanical puddling can be done using =
a
dumper or JCB.
Advantages
1.. A puddled clay lining may be very cheap if suitable clay is available
nearby. Contact local developers, haulage contractors, plant hire or skip
hire operators, as suitable clay may be available as a waste material from
local development schemes.
2.. No special equipment or tools are necessary, other than those needed
to transport the clay. Provided the area is not too large, puddling is a fu=
n
way of involving a group of people. Children especially enjoy it.
3.. A successfully puddled clay bottom is virtually immune to leaks, deca=
y
and vandalism, provided it is made sufficiently thick, and is always covere=
d
with water.
4.. A puddled clay lining can be cleaned by hand of silt without damaging
the lining. However, great care must be taken if using machinery.
5.. Leaks in puddled clay linings can be traced and repaired relatively
easily, provided the water level can be lowered temporarily.
Disadvantages
1.. Purchase and high transport costs may make clay expensive. It is not
always possible to locate a reliable supply at the time that you want it.
2.. If done by hand, the process of spreading the clay is heavy and
laborious work. Puddling must be meticulous to be successful, and the linin=
g
must be prevented from drying out while it is being constructed.
3.. Puddled clay is liable to crack if the water level falls and exposes
the lining for any extensive period. When the level rises again, the clay i=
s
no longer watertight. This
4.. often causes problems on ponds or canals which are restored after a
period of dereliction, and may be the true cause of continued leakage from
ponds where repairs are undertaken on supposedly faulty dams.
5.. Cattle or horses may damage the lining, although sheep can improve it
by sealing any small cracks which may form. Normally clay-lined ponds shoul=
d
be fenced against stock. Where access is required for watering stock, the
clay should be surfaced with a thick layer of gravel or chalk with flints.
Preliminary requirements
Calculate the cubic contents of the lining required. Pond linings should be
200-300mm (8-12") thick, and thicker if they are subject to erosive wave
action or trampling by cattle. Canal linings must be 300mm-1m (1-3') thick.
When ordering, allow about a third extra for 'bulking' as the clay is
supplied unconsolidated and much of its volume is air.
The clay must be of suitable quality, as shown by the following test. When
the clay is moistened and kneaded you should be able to roll it into a
'sausage' which can be bent into a tight circle with no cracks. The clay
should be totally free of stones and any organic material, and should feel
silky and smooth. When mixed with water in a container any impurities such
as sand will fall to the bottom. Clay which contains shiny particles of mic=
a
is unsuitable.
The prepared excavation should be reasonably dry and firm, and free of larg=
e
stones, stumps and roots. Make all slopes very gradual, as wet clay banks
are very slippery and dangerous, being easy to slide into but difficult to
get out from.
If puddling without machinery, the only items of equipment needed are
wellington boots, buckets for water and shovels. Some dew pond makers used =
a
special tamper, as shown in safety, equipment and organisation.
Procedural points
1.. The action of puddling clay requires no skill, but it must be done
slowly and methodically. Puddle the clay in thin layers and build it up
slowly, otherwise it will not be watertight, and different sections may not
knit together.
2.. Each puddler should work on an area of about a square metre, and
puddlers should be stationed so that no unpuddled areas are left between.
The group should concentrate on one portion of the lining at a time, rather
than being spread out across the whole area.
3.. Divide the work between shovelling and carrying the clay, and
puddling. Swap the two groups over from time to time.
4.. Shovel the clay as supplied, and as each shovelful is spread on the
square, add just enough water to make the clay plastic. Excess water will b=
e
trapped in the clay, weakening it. Keep treading up and down all the time,
working the water and air bubbles out of the clay, and knitting your area
together with those of adjacent workers. Add another shovelful only after
all the voids have been worked out of the clay being puddled.
5.. Avoid adding too much clay at one time. This is tempting, especially
when using a dumper, but it results in a compacted top surface while the
clay below remains fissured and liable to leak.
6.. Complete the first layer to a depth of about 75mm (3"), before
starting on the second layer. This ensures that no hard-to-puddle joints
occur between different sections.
7.. Bring the puddling well up the bank, making the sides the same depth
as the bottom. Be sure to cover any possibly faulty masonry or joints
between different materials, where leaks are likely to occur.
8.. The surface must be kept wet at all times to prevent cracks forming,
which, unless carefully sealed by repuddling, may cause leaks. If the task
must be discontinued for even a day or two the clay should be hosed
periodically or flooded in the interim. A small work area can be covered
with polythene to prevent moisture evaporating.
9.. Don't worry about small amounts of standing water, or about it rainin=
g
while puddling. Avoid puddling clay in frosty weather since it will crack
and heave due to the expansion of water when it turns to ice. If the job is
partly done and frost is likely, it is best to flood the site deep enough t=
o
prevent it freezing the lining.
Gis,
Edouard Bastarache
Spertesperantisto (Lernu-Paris)
Sorel-Tracy
Quebec
http://edouardbastarache.blogspot.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30058682@N00/
http://cerampeintures.blogspot.com/
http://albertpaintings.blogspot.com/
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/smart2000/index.htm
Lee on tue 9 feb 10
Found here:
http://handbooks.btcv.org.uk/handbooks/content/section/2443
Book: Waterways & Wetlands
Chapter: 7 Artificial linings
Section: Puddled clay
Metadata: Details Buy this book
Puddled clay is the traditional material for lining canals and other
artificial waterways, as well as for repairing leaks in earth dams,
and sealing joints between concrete and earth banks.
To puddle simply means to pound clay and water together in a dense
mass which resists water penetration. Puddling breaks down the
structure of the clay, closing fissures and forcing out air bubbles.
The clay becomes very plastic, just as happens when it is made into
pottery.
Puddling of the clay which lines the canal system in Britain was done
by driving flocks of sheep into sections of the constructed and lined
canal, so their trampling puddled the clay. Dew ponds and other small
water bodies were puddled by sheep or human feet. Mechanical puddling
can be done using a dumper or JCB.
Advantages
A puddled clay lining may be very cheap if suitable clay is available
nearby. Contact local developers, haulage contractors, plant hire or
skip hire operators, as suitable clay may be available as a waste
material from local development schemes.
No special equipment or tools are necessary, other than those needed
to transport the clay. Provided the area is not too large, puddling is
a fun way of involving a group of people. Children especially enjoy
it.
A successfully puddled clay bottom is virtually immune to leaks, decay
and vandalism, provided it is made sufficiently thick, and is always
covered with water.
A puddled clay lining can be cleaned by hand of silt without damaging
the lining. However, great care must be taken if using machinery.
Leaks in puddled clay linings can be traced and repaired relatively
easily, provided the water level can be lowered temporarily.
Disadvantages
Purchase and high transport costs may make clay expensive. It is not
always possible to locate a reliable supply at the time that you want
it.
If done by hand, the process of spreading the clay is heavy and
laborious work. Puddling must be meticulous to be successful, and the
lining must be prevented from drying out while it is being
constructed.
Puddled clay is liable to crack if the water level falls and exposes
the lining for any extensive period. When the level rises again, the
clay is no longer watertight. This
often causes problems on ponds or canals which are restored after a
period of dereliction, and may be the true cause of continued leakage
from ponds where repairs are undertaken on supposedly faulty dams.
Cattle or horses may damage the lining, although sheep can improve it
by sealing any small cracks which may form. Normally clay-lined ponds
should be fenced against stock. Where access is required for watering
stock, the clay should be surfaced with a thick layer of gravel or
chalk with flints.
Preliminary requirements
Calculate the cubic contents of the lining required. Pond linings
should be 200-300mm (8-12") thick, and thicker if they are subject to
erosive wave action or trampling by cattle. Canal linings must be
300mm-1m (1-3') thick. When ordering, allow about a third extra for
'bulking' as the clay is supplied unconsolidated and much of its
volume is air.
The clay must be of suitable quality, as shown by the following test.
When the clay is moistened and kneaded you should be able to roll it
into a 'sausage' which can be bent into a tight circle with no cracks.
The clay should be totally free of stones and any organic material,
and should feel silky and smooth. When mixed with water in a container
any impurities such as sand will fall to the bottom. Clay which
contains shiny particles of mica is unsuitable.
The prepared excavation should be reasonably dry and firm, and free of
large stones, stumps and roots. Make all slopes very gradual, as wet
clay banks are very slippery and dangerous, being easy to slide into
but difficult to get out from.
If puddling without machinery, the only items of equipment needed are
wellington boots, buckets for water and shovels. Some dew pond makers
used a special tamper, as shown in safety, equipment and organisation.
Procedural points
The action of puddling clay requires no skill, but it must be done
slowly and methodically. Puddle the clay in thin layers and build it
up slowly, otherwise it will not be watertight, and different sections
may not knit together.
Each puddler should work on an area of about a square metre, and
puddlers should be stationed so that no unpuddled areas are left
between. The group should concentrate on one portion of the lining at
a time, rather than being spread out across the whole area.
Divide the work between shovelling and carrying the clay, and
puddling. Swap the two groups over from time to time.
Shovel the clay as supplied, and as each shovelful is spread on the
square, add just enough water to make the clay plastic. Excess water
will be trapped in the clay, weakening it. Keep treading up and down
all the time, working the water and air bubbles out of the clay, and
knitting your area together with those of adjacent workers. Add
another shovelful only after all the voids have been worked out of the
clay being puddled.
Avoid adding too much clay at one time. This is tempting, especially
when using a dumper, but it results in a compacted top surface while
the clay below remains fissured and liable to leak.
Complete the first layer to a depth of about 75mm (3"), before
starting on the second layer. This ensures that no hard-to-puddle
joints occur between different sections.
Bring the puddling well up the bank, making the sides the same depth
as the bottom. Be sure to cover any possibly faulty masonry or joints
between different materials, where leaks are likely to occur.
The surface must be kept wet at all times to prevent cracks forming,
which, unless carefully sealed by repuddling, may cause leaks. If the
task must be discontinued for even a day or two the clay should be
hosed periodically or flooded in the interim. A small work area can be
covered with polythene to prevent moisture evaporating.
Don't worry about small amounts of standing water, or about it raining
while puddling. Avoid puddling clay in frosty weather since it will
crack and heave due to the expansion of water when it turns to ice. If
the job is partly done and frost is likely, it is best to flood the
site deep enough to prevent it freezing the lining.
For information on repairing leaks, see leaks.
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D97that=
is, "Th=3D
e
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue
Steve Mills on tue 9 feb 10
I've come across this in the context of making traditional style ponds or
lakes. The clay most often used by the company I was in touch with was/is
the edgings of ball clay pits were the clay was not pure enough to sell for
ceramic use, and the term "puddling" described the technique used to tread
the clay into the pond walls to make it watertight.
The clay I got off them (for free) in order to make some flower pots for
home use, was extremely plastic and all sorts of colours from red through
yellow to almost black. It fired deep red.
Steve M
On 9 February 2010 10:26, Clay wrote:
> Ivor (LEWIS) wrote about puddled clay:
> SNIP
> Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2010 13:50:41 +1030
> From: ivor & olive lewis
> Subject: Puddled Clay
> Ladybower dam was to be an earth embankment lined with "Puddled Clay", a
> material known for its ability to resist water infiltration and leakage.
> I can find no reference in my three Ceramic Dictionaries
> Is "Puddled Clay" just another name for plastic clay? If it is not, what
> confers its ability to resist the transit of water ?
> Ideas anyone?
> SNIP
>
> My understanding of puddled clay is that it was trodden into straw.
> This might well change the pH of a clay/straw layer and thus change its
> colloidal nature. ..perhaps analogous to the pan layer in a podzol.
>
> I'm sure someone out there can explain this.
>
> Ivor (the other one)
> I J Townshend
> in Macclesfield UK
>
--
Steve
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Kate McCoy on tue 9 feb 10
Instead of the laborious method outlined here, you could just buy a
product called "Bentomat" and use that instead. We "moved" a pond last
year (too close to the fence) and used the bentomat - roll out like a
carpet, over the bottom of said pond, overlapping the edges and peg
down. Then fill with water. It's made, naturally, out of Bentonite
(who'd a thought!)
It's a bit pricey though.
Kate
Olympia, WA
Edouard Bastarache wrote:
> Book: Waterways & Wetlands
> Chapter: 7 Artificial linings
> Section: Puddled clay
> Metadata: Details Buy this book
>
>
>
>
> Puddled clay is the traditional material for lining canals and other
> artificial waterways, as well as for repairing leaks in earth dams, and
> sealing joints between concrete and earth banks.
>
>
ivor & olive lewis on wed 10 feb 10
Sincere thanks to every one who has contributed to this thread.
Some interesting facts. I have a URL list to research in an attempt to
answer the question that has been left awaiting for a solution.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis,
Redhill,
South Australia
ivor & olive lewis on thu 11 feb 10
Search lead me to this piece from the Parrish Council records of Stoney
Middleton in North Derbyshire. This region is famous for its Dew Ponds. I
played my part in the annual Well Dressing at Tideswell, in the hills above
Stoney Middleton, by providing transport for the Queen of the Well Dressing
Parade.
"Clay Puddling
The clay used for puddling occurs where limestone meets gritstone so that
local supplies are readily available. After extraction, hard clay is stored
in sacks for a year. The clay is soaked in water butts for a few weeks and
given an occasional stir to aid water penetration. Puddling involves workin=
g
the now softer material by hand to remove stones and other debris and to
produce a creamy plaster-like final product.
The puddled clay is applied to the picture boards several days before the
design is traced onto the fine surface and petalling begins. Preparing up t=
o
five hundredweight of clay in this manner is heavy, time consuming, dirty
and thirsty work. Correct choice of the work site is vital to encourage
volunteers. The site must be within tray carrying distance of the local
hostelry - we have the ideal site - The Moon Inn yard so we reckon our clay
is the best in the area and in a normal summer the pictures stay bright for
the full week. "
Another form of Clay Art.
About the use of Straw I found this... "The object of the straw is, of
course, to act as a non-conducting medium of heat, as it prevents the warmt=
h
of the earth from imparting itself to the clay, which becomes chilled in th=
e
process of evaporation. It is important, therefore, in constructing dewpond=
s
in which straw is used, to protect carefully the margin of the straw, as if
it once becomes wet it will cease to attract moisture"
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis,
Redhill,
South Australia
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