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tile mural---

updated mon 25 jan 10


Susan Fox Hirschmann on sun 24 jan 10

ABSOLUTELY! meant to add that but glad you mentioned all those other issues=
as far as strength of whatever you are adhering those tiles to.
And the surface it is to be attached to.=3DA0wall composition.=3DA0So impor=
Planning and getting it right the first time is what is important here.=3DA=
0 =3D
You must create a piece not only visually pleasing but durable. It has to W=
Peter King is an expert at all that.=3DA0 I took an architectural ceramics =
ass with him many years ago, and you could seek out his architectural ceram=
ics book that goes into
those issues with answers to most questions you might have.
Best of luck!
Annandale, Va

--- On Sat, 1/23/10, Phoenix Rising Farm wrote:

From: Phoenix Rising Farm
Subject: Re: Tile mural
Date: Saturday, January 23, 2010, 10:03 PM

Sorry to butt in, but I have to say something here.

In the interests of safety, PLEASE make sure that your substrate is
strong enough
to hold whatever you're trying to hang!

You can use plywood, marine grade or otherwise, HardieBoard, steel
panels or a sky hook....whatever
your little heart desires to mount your masterpiece...all well and good...
But if that wall itself isn't strong enough to hold it, you're facing
not only the loss of your art
but also (if in a public place) a possible liability lawsuit if the damn
thing comes crashing down
on some John Q Publican's head, foot, or other body part.
Just a word to the wise.

In Susan's case, below, she used the proper fastener on a concrete block
wall. She KNEW what the wall was made of.
Someone else would try doing the same thing on a sheetrock wall, and
could have the tapcons rip out and have it all come crashing down.
"Gee, but I used two inch long fasteners" is NOT going to be a valid
defense in court, trust me; no matter
whose fault the poor wall construction is.
Be sure you know what you're mounting it on...BEFORE you start.

Wayne Seidl

On 1/23/2010 4:58 PM, Susan Fox Hirschmann wrote:
> I took 1/2 plywood --depending on size you might need to go thicker to pr=
event any warpage....out door marine grade plywood. a must!!!!and painted i=
t several times, then drilled it in 4 areas, which were all level but two o=
n the left ish about equally apart as two on the rightish.=3DA0 Use heavy d=
y wire and string it thru the board several times, winding it on the inside=
.=3DA0 Push it down flat.=3DA0 Then I slattered construction adhersive in s=
ons to the board, knowing of course where each tile would go.=3DA0 Did it s=
tion by section, and let it dry.=3DA0 Construction adhesive will never move=
, =3D
HONEST!=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0Then hung it with 2 " tapcons onto cement block.=3DA0=
You see=3D
, I created two hangers on the back to balance the weight between the two t=
apcon type nails.
> Been there for several years. No moving,=3DA0 no cracking....yeah!!!
> Also did an indoor one with kids from summer arts camp from the JCC---the=
y each made a tile fo their choosing showing me how they felt about summer =
and starting camp (it is always the first week after school is over so they=
are super enthusaistic and showed it in the clay!)
> Best of luck
> Email me off list if I can help you more.
> Susan
> annandale, va
> --- On Fri, 1/22/10, Linda Stauffer=3DA0 wrote:
> From: Linda Stauffer
> Subject: Tile mural
> Date: Friday, January 22, 2010, 3:27 PM
> I've finished all the tiles for a mural at our local YMCA.=3DA0 I was goi=
to=3DA0 attach the tiles to a hardy backer cement board or should I use so=
thing else to reduce the weight . It will never be outside and I want to ma=
ke sure the tiles don't fall off. Also any suggestions for attaching it to =
the wall?
> Linda Stauffer