Kate McCoy on thu 3 dec 09
Hi all,
Recently read all the posts on footrings on bowls, mugs, taller pots,
creating lift, and added dimension/definition, but what about large,
flattish plates where the foot wouldn't really show?
Since you would not notice one unless you turned the plate over (not a
good idea if it's got food on it), is there another reason for having
one? I'm thinking that perhaps raising it from the table would help
protect table from heat, or perhaps a foot wold help reduce heat loss
from food in the server, on the plate.
Is it an aesthetic decision, or a practical one. Does one make corner
feet or put a ridge all the way round. If you don't add one, how would
you glaze - use wadding to raise it from the kiln shelf?
The plates/serving platters are large, with sloping sides, rather like a
section of a pyramid, upside down. The angle on the servers is 45, with
a very shallow angle and largish rim on the plates.
What are other potters doing, and why?
Thanks everyone - have a good potting day
Kate
in an very cold, dismal Olympia.
Randall Moody on thu 3 dec 09
I put a foot on all of my plates whether they are thrown or hand built. It
adds a finished look. A plate without a foot looks incomplete to me. For an
example see
http://www.flickr.com/photos/randallmoody/4156812474/in/photostream/
--Randall in Atlanta--
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Kate McCoy
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 3:44 PM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: feet (foots?) on square plates
Hi all,
Recently read all the posts on footrings on bowls, mugs, taller pots,
creating lift, and added dimension/definition, but what about large,
flattish plates where the foot wouldn't really show?
Since you would not notice one unless you turned the plate over (not a
good idea if it's got food on it), is there another reason for having
one? I'm thinking that perhaps raising it from the table would help
protect table from heat, or perhaps a foot wold help reduce heat loss
from food in the server, on the plate.
Is it an aesthetic decision, or a practical one. Does one make corner
feet or put a ridge all the way round. If you don't add one, how would
you glaze - use wadding to raise it from the kiln shelf?
The plates/serving platters are large, with sloping sides, rather like a
section of a pyramid, upside down. The angle on the servers is 45, with
a very shallow angle and largish rim on the plates.
What are other potters doing, and why?
Thanks everyone - have a good potting day
Kate
in an very cold, dismal Olympia.
Ellen Currans on thu 3 dec 09
Dear Kate,
I think, like a lot of other issues in clay, that whether or not you=3D20
put feet on "large flattish plates"
is a personal design decision. Try them both ways and see what you=3D20
think? Find out what your
customers think. Does the extra time involved make the extra cost=3D20
worthwhile? Not everything
served on a large flat plate or platter is hot, and don't people have=3D20
hot pads to use when it is
necessary?
I make a lot of large flat slab platters. Some just kind of ask for=3D20
pedestal feet, which I throw on
the slab, or small nubby feet from extrusions, but most do not get=3D20
anything extra. They take up
less room in the cupboard. If they have handles or a deep enough rim=3D20
they really do not need
a foot rim to look right. Putting enough small nubby feet on a large=3D20
flat tray to keep it from
slumping or wobbling, or even an extruded squared foot rim takes=3D20
consideration and time, and I prefer to not add that extra problem to=3D20
my firings, and keep the pieces more reasonable to buy.
I have found that you need to be very careful with the glazes you use=3D20
on flat slab ware. A very
strong glaze, such as Tom Colemans" No Craze White will crack a weak=3D20
clay that is too thin. The
glazed top is under more compression that the bare bottom. (Or is that=3D20
the other way around?
I just know that with my clay, my slabs for larger pieces need to be at=3D2=
0
least 3/8's inch.)
I glaze all my slab ware by dipping. First, I draw lines on the bottom=3D20
with a pencil in a cheap old
compass left from school days. The metal prong slides along the edge=3D20
of the piece, while
the pencil side makes a line where I want the glaze to stop. You can=3D20
adjust the width of the
glazed edge to fit the piece. It is much easier to wax square
or oblong flat slab pieces when you have a line to wax to. On most of=3D20
the pieces less than
l2 inches in diameter, I apply a strip of duct tape with a two inch=3D20
loop at each end across
the middle bottom on the plate. Leave an inch or so of duct tape=3D20
beyond the loops to secure
it to the plate. Yes, it will hold, even on wax. To dip, pick up one=3D20
of the loops with your
left hand, dip in bucket to cover, remove from glaze, grasp the other=3D20
loop and reverse
the piece into the glaze vertically again. This gives an even coating=3D2=
0
( of a fairly thin
glaze) without finger marks or tong marks to fix up. When you pull it=3D20
out of the glaze,
hold the loops with both hands and slide it off onto a table edge. I=3D20
have some metal 3/8's
round tubes which stick into the window sill above my glazing sink that=3D2=
0
I slide the pieces
off on to. I have holes drilled into the sill about every 3 inches,=3D20
and stick the l5 inch tubes
in when I start to glaze. There is room to do about 6 plates before I=3D20
have to remove the
first one and pull off the duct tape. I wax and tape and wash=3D20
everything for a firing (about
150 pieces) before I start to glaze.
I hope this is clear. It sounds more complicated than it is. It does=3D20
require that you have
glaze buckets or receptacles deep and wide enough to hold the pieces=3D20
you glaze this way.
Ellen
Dundee, Oregon
-----Original Message-----
From: Kate McCoy
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: Thu, Dec 3, 2009 12:44 pm
Subject: feet (foots?) on square plates
Hi all,=3DC2=3DA0
=3DC2=3DA0
Recently read all the posts on footrings on bowls, mugs, taller pots,=3DC2=
=3D
=3DA0
creating lift, and added dimension/definition, but what about large,=3DC2=
=3DA0
flattish plates where the foot wouldn't really show?=3DC2=3DA0
=3DC2=3DA0
Since you would not notice one unless you turned the plate over (not a=3DC2=
=3D
=3DA0
good idea if it's got food on it), is there another reason for having=3DC2=
=3D
=3DA0
one? I'm thinking that perhaps raising it from the table would help=3DC2=3D=
A0
protect table from heat, or perhaps a foot wold help reduce heat loss=3DC2=
=3D
=3DA0
from food in the server, on the plate.=3DC2=3DA0
=3DC2=3DA0
Is it an aesthetic decision, or a practical one. Does one make corner=3DC2=
=3D
=3DA0
feet or put a ridge all the way round. If you don't add one, how would=3DC2=
=3D
=3DA0
you glaze - use wadding to raise it from the kiln shelf?=3DC2=3DA0
=3DC2=3DA0
The plates/serving platters are large, with sloping sides, rather like=3D20
a=3DC2=3DA0
section of a pyramid, upside down. The angle on the servers is 45, with=3DC=
2=3D
=3DA0
a very shallow angle and largish rim on the plates.=3DC2=3DA0
=3DC2=3DA0
What are other potters doing, and why?=3DC2=3DA0
=3DC2=3DA0
Thanks everyone - have a good potting day=3DC2=3DA0
=3DC2=3DA0
Kate=3DC2=3DA0
in an very cold, dismal Olympia.=3DC2=3DA0
=3D20
Bruce Ciske on sat 5 dec 09
Kate,
I put feet on my handbuilt platters for several reasons. Aesthetically, =
=3D
I like=3D20
the look of elevation -- even slight -- that feet provide. Generally, I =
=3D
use lugs=3D20
at each corner, either diagonally or mitered into a 90 degree corner foot=
=3D
. I=3D20
place the feet on the shoulder of the bend between the wall and the botto=
=3D
m.=3D20=3D20
I've made platters without feet and, try as I may, could not get an even=3D=
20=3D
wax/glaze line that did not detract from the platter.=3D20=3D20
Functionally, feet allow me to glaze the bottom of the platter, which I f=
=3D
ind my=3D20
customers like. I sometimes put texture on both sides of the slabs I use=
=3D
for a=3D20
platter. I use clay bodies with absorption rates of less than 3% -- pref=
=3D
erring=3D20
less than 2% for functional work when possible. Reducing the amount of=3D2=
0=3D
exposed clay body -- especially on the bottom -- makes the platter seem=3D2=
0=3D
more finished and complete. Feet also allows the platter to have an air=3D=
20=3D
cushion for insulation between the platter and the table.
I fire electric, so wadding is not an issue for me.=3D20=3D20
Bruce
Lee Love on sat 5 dec 09
I do some low plates and shallow bowls that are wirecut on
the bottom. I inlay the wirecut so the bottom is smooth.
I have new terra sigged pie plates and also a straight sided
utility plate, with a wire cut bottom. I am going to make the
ulitity plate in nested sets.
You don't always need a foot. All depends upon the shape
and what you are trying to express.
Never say never. You'll always be wrong.
--
Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D97tha=
t is, "T=3D
he
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue
marci and rex on sat 5 dec 09
At 02:49 PM 12/5/2009, Lee Love wrote:
> Never say never. You'll always be wrong.
Never stick an unshielded metal knife into a live electrical socket ?
Never say " never say never" to an ornery woman?
Marci
Lee Love on sat 5 dec 09
On Sat, Dec 5, 2009 at 5:30 PM, marci and rex wrote:
>
> =3DA0Never =3DA0stick an unshielded metal =3DA0knife into a live =3DA0ele=
ctrical =3D
=3DA0socket ?
Certainly, you can imagine why someone might want to do this? We
are supposed to be creative people. Or pretending to be, anyway. ;^)
--=3D20
--
Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D97tha=
t is, "T=3D
he
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue
Lis Allison on sun 6 dec 09
On Saturday 05 December 2009, Bruce Ciske wrote:
> Kate,
>
> I put feet on my handbuilt platters for several reasons.
> Aesthetically, I like the look of elevation -- even slight -- that feet
> provide. Generally, I use lugs at each corner, either diagonally or
> mitered into a 90 degree corner foot. I place the feet on the shoulder
> of the bend between the wall and the bottom. I've made platters without
> feet and, try as I may, could not get an even wax/glaze line that did
> not detract from the platter.
An easy trick somebody showed me years ago was to use a little square
sponge to apply wax resist. Just buy a chunk of foam rubber from a fabric
or upholstery store (the kind for stuffing pillows), and cut little 2"
squares with scissors. Dip into a puddle of was resist and dab to make
sure the wax won't drip off, then paint on the pot. Makes it easy to make
a smooth even glaze line.
Lis
--
Elisabeth Allison
Pine Ridge Studio
www.Pine-Ridge-Studio.blogspot.com
MJ on sun 6 dec 09
Hi - I use tape to make the outline and sometimes fill in with wax resist.
This gives a pretty straight line. Easier than wax, I think.
MJ
On Sun, Dec 6, 2009 at 9:32 AM, Lis Allison wrote:
> On Saturday 05 December 2009, Bruce Ciske wrote:
> > Kate,
> >
> > I put feet on my handbuilt platters for several reasons.
> > Aesthetically, I like the look of elevation -- even slight -- that feet
> > provide. Generally, I use lugs at each corner, either diagonally or
> > mitered into a 90 degree corner foot. I place the feet on the shoulder
> > of the bend between the wall and the bottom. I've made platters without
> > feet and, try as I may, could not get an even wax/glaze line that did
> > not detract from the platter.
>
> An easy trick somebody showed me years ago was to use a little square
> sponge to apply wax resist. Just buy a chunk of foam rubber from a fabric
> or upholstery store (the kind for stuffing pillows), and cut little 2"
> squares with scissors. Dip into a puddle of was resist and dab to make
> sure the wax won't drip off, then paint on the pot. Makes it easy to make
> a smooth even glaze line.
>
> Lis
>
>
> --
> Elisabeth Allison
> Pine Ridge Studio
> www.Pine-Ridge-Studio.blogspot.comcom/>
>
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