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underglazes and overglazes

updated fri 11 sep 09


margaretd on thu 10 sep 09

I found the same thing true with the amaco velvets....if i used them and =
then immediately used their clear coat, the colors came out patchy, =3D
uneven and just ugly.....needed the shine that a clear coat gives, didnt =
want the velvet look...
the only thing i have found that works is using their velvets on =3D
greenware in the bisque load, and then using the clear in the glaze =3D have to use 3 coats of the velvets for opaque coverage, =3D
otherwise you will see thru it and/or you will have streaks...once i =3D
used it on the greenware, fired and then did the glaze with the clear, =3D
no problems happened. maybe u can try that with the spectrum underglazes =
as well....
as far as the glaze not sticking, is it the underglaze not sticking, or =3D
the clear not sticking...,issue could very well be that your clay body =3D
is not fitting the is shrinking faster than the other. i =3D
have had glaze that will flake off from certain clay bodies, but on =3D
others no problem...
most clay companies will tell you which glazes they recommend, and will =3D
gladly tell u which glazes wont work very well...are u using red or =3D
white earthenware....Standard, Highwater or Laguna (or any other =3D
brand)....does it have grog or not? ask the mfg, of the clay not the =3D
glaze, and i found that they are the ones that know which glaze works =3D
best...potters will let a clay mfg know usually if they are having =3D
issues with glazes...

sometimes too, in the case of the clear, changing from shiny to matte =3D
makes a difference, or satin...but i always do my underglazes on =3D
greenware, and use the amaco...
hope this helps!