Michelle Hamilton on wed 16 apr 08
Hi All;
Long time potter but new to Soda and cone 10 gas. My 20+ year experience is in cone 6 and lower
electric. My taste and focus have changed.....I am ready to build my own kiln now and have been
reading several books on the subject as well as looking at the Clayart Archives. What I would like to
accomplish is a two sided gas box kiln. One side for Soda with all its ports etc and then a bag wall (?)
between another side that would be strictly cone 10 reduction. Is this possible? Has anyone seen
such a thing. I am limited in space (the kiln will have to be outside and disguised as a large Bar-b-
Que.) Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in Advance!
Michelle
David Woof on wed 16 apr 08
Michelle, fun idea, serious intent no doubt! for efficiency the kiln wou=
ld=20
best be a cross draft with the soda chamber on the exit flue side of bag wa=
ll.=20
Bag wall would be a heat sink at first but later in the firing and cooling=
=20
would provide a thermal mass with epic possibilities and influence.
=20
However with the cross draft you will need a chimney with strong draw,=20
whereas with an updraft you could get by with none though you would=20
sacrifice efficiency and control. A short fat chimney will draw well in pl=
ace=20
of a taller narrower one but usually needs to be pre heated to=20
get the draw started. =20
=20
Main burner(s) would feed chamber #1, and 2 burners=20
would help finish soda chamber #2, =20
=20
Dampering while introducing soda could cause some back drift of sodium=20
back into chamber#1 but if you thru experience select glazes which can=20
tolerate or be enhanced by the sodium flashing, chamber #1 should give=20
pleasing results as well.
=20
The bag wall will also need to be "tuned" with successive firing experience=
so lay it=20
up loosely until you get it right. Leaving an alternating vertical success=
ion of=20
several bricks loose in the back wall where they provide exit into the chim=
ney=20
will also let you fine tune the exiting flow of gasses with successive firi=
ngs as well.=20
If you positoin these to corrospond with Passive damper openings in the chi=
mney you=20
can use tongs to place or remove various sizes of bricks in these holes to=
=20
relieve or block the flow while firing.
=20
This is an intriguing idea, tell more about intended size and the BBQ desig=
n.
=20
Best with this,
=20
David=20
=20
P.S.
You will need to make a big ceramic pig on a spit to turn slowly in front o=
f the neighbors while you fire. Of course then they will no doubt arrive wi=
th forks, knives and their own platters. so...
=20
David Woof Studio
=20
Clarkdale, AZ 928-649-5927 =20
_________________________________________________________________
Use video conversation to talk face-to-face with Windows Live Messenger.
http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/connect_your_way.html?ocid=3DTXT_TAGLM=
_WL_Refresh_messenger_video_042008=
Duff bogen on wed 16 apr 08
Michelle
Potters in the portland oregon area have been using "cement blocks" (CMU) as shells for ^10 kilns. They have one 4-1/2" layer of K-2300 bricks as a liner.
My thought here is that the CMU would be residential camoflage. You could have two small cube kilns with a common wall (the trick here is what brick would work well for both ^10 and soda?) in side a neutral gray box. Burners on flexible hose could serve both kilns and they would share a common chimny.
DRB Seattle
Michelle Hamilton wrote:
Hi All;
Long time potter but new to Soda and cone 10 gas. My 20+ year experience is in cone 6 and lower
electric. My taste and focus have changed.....I am ready to build my own kiln now and have been
reading several books on the subject as well as looking at the Clayart Archives. What I would like to
accomplish is a two sided gas box kiln. One side for Soda with all its ports etc and then a bag wall (?)
between another side that would be strictly cone 10 reduction. Is this possible? Has anyone seen
such a thing. I am limited in space (the kiln will have to be outside and disguised as a large Bar-b-
Que.) Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in Advance!
Michelle
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Michelle Hamilton on thu 17 apr 08
On Wed, 16 Apr 2008 18:12:21 -0600, David Woof wrote:
>Michelle, fun idea, serious intent no doubt! for efficiency the kiln would
>best be a cross draft with the soda chamber on the exit flue side of bag wall.
>Bag wall would be a heat sink at first but later in the firing and cooling
>would provide a thermal mass with epic possibilities and influence.
>
>However with the cross draft you will need a chimney with strong draw,
>whereas with an updraft you could get by with none though you would
>sacrifice efficiency and control. A short fat chimney will draw well in place
>of a taller narrower one but usually needs to be pre heated to
>get the draw started.
>
>Main burner(s) would feed chamber #1, and 2 burners
>would help finish soda chamber #2,
>
>Dampering while introducing soda could cause some back drift of sodium
>back into chamber#1 but if you thru experience select glazes which can
>tolerate or be enhanced by the sodium flashing, chamber #1 should give
>pleasing results as well.
>
>The bag wall will also need to be "tuned" with successive firing experience so lay it
>up loosely until you get it right. Leaving an alternating vertical succession of
>several bricks loose in the back wall where they provide exit into the chimney
>will also let you fine tune the exiting flow of gasses with successive firings as well.
>If you positoin these to corrospond with Passive damper openings in the chimney you
>can use tongs to place or remove various sizes of bricks in these holes to
>relieve or block the flow while firing.
>
>This is an intriguing idea, tell more about intended size and the BBQ design.
>
>Best with this,
>
>David
>
>P.S.
>You will need to make a big ceramic pig on a spit to turn slowly in front of the neighbors while
you fire. Of course then they will no doubt arrive with forks, knives and their own platters. so...
>
>David Woof Studio
>
>Clarkdale, AZ 928-649-5927
>_________________________________________________________________
>Use video conversation to talk face-to-face with Windows Live Messenger.
>http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/connect_your_way.html?
ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_messenger_video_042008
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
>subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
David;
Wow, thanks for your excellent response. A lot to digest but makes a lot of sense. I am a small
operation so am thinking that the overall exterior size will be no larger than 4'x6'. I have also
been
considering firing each side separately based upon that weeks work and desired outcome. I would
close up the bag wall to seal each side as needed. As this will be my first building experience I am
still reading and absorbing as much as possible about the varied theories and form and function.
your response has pushed me forward and I really appreciate it. I will let you know how it goes. (I
will not begin to build until mid-summer)
Regards;
Michelle
Michelle Hamilton on thu 17 apr 08
On Wed, 16 Apr 2008 14:07:14 -0700, Duff bogen wrote:
>Michelle
> Potters in the portland oregon area have been using "cement blocks" (CMU) as shells for ^10
kilns. They have one 4-1/2" layer of K-2300 bricks as a liner.
> My thought here is that the CMU would be residential camoflage. You could have two small
cube kilns with a common wall (the trick here is what brick would work well for both ^10 and
soda?) in side a neutral gray box. Burners on flexible hose could serve both kilns and they would
share a common chimny.
>DRB Seattle
>Michelle Hamilton wrote:
> Hi All;
>
>Long time potter but new to Soda and cone 10 gas. My 20+ year experience is in cone 6 and
lower
>electric. My taste and focus have changed.....I am ready to build my own kiln now and have been
>reading several books on the subject as well as looking at the Clayart Archives. What I would like
to
>accomplish is a two sided gas box kiln. One side for Soda with all its ports etc and then a bag
wall (?)
>between another side that would be strictly cone 10 reduction. Is this possible? Has anyone seen
>such a thing. I am limited in space (the kiln will have to be outside and disguised as a large Bar-
b-
>Que.) Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks in Advance!
>Michelle
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
>subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
>subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
Nice! The cement blocks would certainly provide the camo that I may be needing. Your design
would
provide me with the ability to fire each side as needed.
Food for thought or perhaps BBQ for thought...thanks for your help!
Michelle
Lee on thu 17 apr 08
Michelle,
The late Jerry Horning of Omaha (MacKenzie's first MFA
graduate) designed a very interesting two chambered kiln for my friend
Dirk Gilespie. The two chambers had the chimney between them and a
set of dampers that allowed the large chamber or the small chambers to
be fired seperately, or together, with swivel burners mounded so they
could be pointed at either chamber. When both chambers were fired at
the same time, the heat went through the large chamber first, and then
into the small chamber and then out the stack.
Of course, you could just build a two chamber kiln, with
the second chamber for soda. You could fire the reduction chamber
first and then the soda chamber, or just fire the reduction chamber,
using the second chamber to bisque or soda. Or just fire the soda
chamber.
--
Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"Not everything that counts can be counted, and not everything that
can be counted counts." --(Sign hanging in Einstein's office at
Princeton)
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