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steve harrison et al, castable bourry box lid.

updated thu 3 apr 08

 

Paul Haigh on mon 31 mar 08


My first lid (18"x48") was a 1" fiberboard in an angle iron frame, but the board started falling apart after 2 firings (hitting branches etc. sticking out the box didn't help). Then I put a sheet of steel under it, but it expands at a different rate and the whole thing bowed up :(

I see a castable lid mentioned in Laidback Woodfiring.
How thick should it be?
Any reinforcing mesh needed in the middle? I have a small castable slab that seems really sturdy, so maybe not.
Any suggestions on a hinge? Currently I have 2 loops on the lid and 2 on the kiln frame with a bar holding it all together- should I just cast loops into the slab?
How much castable might I need for this?

Thanks!
Paul Haigh
Londonderry, NH

Hank Murrow on mon 31 mar 08


On Mar 31, 2008, at 3:06 PM, Paul Haigh wrote:
>
> I see a castable lid mentioned in Laidback Woodfiring.
> How thick should it be?
> Any reinforcing mesh needed in the middle? I have a small castable
> slab that seems really sturdy, so maybe not.

Dear Paul;

I routinely cast thin(1") slabs using re-inforcing alloy needles in
the mix. They act like the threads in ripstop nylon to prevent cracks
from traveling. The brand I use is Fibercon and this is their
website: http://www.fiberconfiber.com/

The slabs should be at least bisqued before placing them in service.
probably a grade of fibercon in your application need not go beyond
2000F. Alloy, of course. the 'slit sheet' fibercon should work well.

Your lid at 18" x 48" would need 6 board feet at 1" thickness. at
1.5" thickness, you would need 9 board feet of finished castable. I
would use a castable with a 2000F rating and around 85_100 pounds per
cuft density.

Cheers, Hank

Duff bogen on wed 2 apr 08


Paul
I like the rod and loops system. I did a counterweight on a wood stove door that was similar. The rod was welded to one edge. It had an el bend at one end and a large chunk of metal at th end of hte el. In this way (here I'm describing it as if on your firebox) when the lid is closed the weight is up and bent slightly over the lid and holds it down. When you push the el away from you the lid opens, the weight rests on top of the firebox and holds the lid open.
As for materials I'd go for the least technology that gets the job done for the lowest cost- a mix like 3 vermicullite or perlite 2 sand 1 clay 1 portland cement. (rough measure, subject to variables of materials)
DRB

Paul Haigh wrote:
My first lid (18"x48") was a 1" fiberboard in an angle iron frame, but the board started falling apart after 2 firings (hitting branches etc. sticking out the box didn't help). Then I put a sheet of steel under it, but it expands at a different rate and the whole thing bowed up :(

I see a castable lid mentioned in Laidback Woodfiring.
How thick should it be?
Any reinforcing mesh needed in the middle? I have a small castable slab that seems really sturdy, so maybe not.
Any suggestions on a hinge? Currently I have 2 loops on the lid and 2 on the kiln frame with a bar holding it all together- should I just cast loops into the slab?
How much castable might I need for this?

Thanks!
Paul Haigh
Londonderry, NH

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