search  current discussion  categories  techniques - cracking 

cracks at handle joints

updated thu 6 mar 08

 

Lee on fri 29 feb 08


Asim wrote:

> "While joining the handles with teapots I always
> ensure for their slow drying to avoid hairline cracks
> at the joints. Last weekend despite all the
> precautions I did get those cracks on some of the
> teapots and tried to cover them up by rubbing gently
> the effected area with my thumb at bone dry stage and
> was happy to note their disappearance. After the
> bisque firing I could see again the appearance of
> those hairline cracks at the joints but in lesser
> intensity. "

Your thumb isn't the right tool. try a Popsicle stick.
Also, as I mentioned, you can rub the seam again after the bisque.

--
Lee in Mashiko, Tochigi Japan
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/

"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi

Maggie Pate on fri 29 feb 08


"While joining the handles with teapots I always
ensure for their slow drying to avoid hairline cracks
at the joints. Last weekend despite all the
precautions I did get those cracks on some of the
teapots and tried to cover them up by rubbing gently
the effected area with my thumb at bone dry stage and
was happy to note their disappearance. After the
bisque firing I could see again the appearance of
those hairline cracks at the joints but in lesser
intensity. "

Hey Asim. My favorite trick is to brush a little
liquid wax resist over the joints after I handle
things. It slows down the drying process in that
sensitive spot so the water content has a chance to
equalize between the pot and the handle. The wax
burns off in the bisque. Just be sure to brush of the
little cinders left behind before glazing so you don't
get any crawls from the dust.

-Maggie Furtak

Pate Ceramics
www.pateceramics.blogspot.com



____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping

David Woof on sat 1 mar 08


Apply wax resist to all cracks and joins as soon as the clay has reached a =
firm setting where the brush won't disturb/distort the join. Out here in lo=
w humidity Arizonna I wax the whole handle. Then dry slowly.David WoofClar=
kdale,Arizona928-649-5927 =20
_________________________________________________________________
Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser!
http://biggestloser.msn.com/=

Justin M Smith on tue 4 mar 08


On Sat, 1 Mar 2008 07:26:35 -0700, David Woof wrote:

>Apply wax resist to all cracks and joins as soon as the clay has reached
a firm setting where the brush won't disturb/distort the join. Out here in
low humidity Arizonna I wax the whole handle. Then dry slowly.David
WoofClarkdale,Arizona928-649-5927
>_________________________________________________________________
>Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser!
>http://biggestloser.msn.com/
>__________________________________________________________________________
____
>Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
>subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here:
http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots2@visi.com

Wax resist to the joints is a good idea, I live in a very hot dry climate
in the summer. Also try making what was called Smooze. 1/3 dry clay body
1/3 karo syrup 1/3 viniger by volume. use this to attach handles or any
seams, clean up any over spill once it drys its realy hard to sand or
smooth out also dont let any brushes dry with this on them, they are done
for!
Good luck
Justin,