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element wiring repair

updated sun 13 jan 08

 

Taylor Hendrix on thu 10 jan 08


Oh boy.

I finally had time to replace all the elements in my vintage A99-B
Paragon kiln. When I took the old elements out I actually found one of
the switches was in pieces probably arcing all over the switch box.
Soooooooo, I replaced all the old switches. The problem is that the
wiring is not new and some of the crimped connectors were breaking
wires. I repaired one that I saw was very dangerous. When I went to
turn on the bottom element I heard a loud pop. Seems that another wire
broke just behind the crimped on connector. This might happen a bunch
tomorrow when I open up the boxes again check them all.

My question is will these insulated crimp connectors from Ace be okay?
They are not copper or brass but some kind of silver metal
(aluminum?). I just can't afford to order all new pigtails from
Paragon and I do need to get to firing bisque and glaze loads ASAP. I
believe I have sized them correctly (16-14 AWG). Would a larger store
have what I need and what would I ask for?

And one more thing. I hate the old wire configurations for the switch
boxes. With the newer switches I have to install them upside down so
that the L1 and L2 terminals will be at the bottom of the box where
the power enters. Otherwise I have all kinds of bends right over the
back of the switch making my life hell.

--
Taylor, in Rockport TX
http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/

Tom at Hutchtel.net on thu 10 jan 08


Subject: Element wiring repair


> Oh boy.
>
> My question is will these insulated crimp connectors from Ace be okay?
> They are not copper or brass but some kind of silver metal
> (aluminum?). I just can't afford to order all new pigtails from
> Paragon and I do need to get to firing bisque and glaze loads ASAP. I
> believe I have sized them correctly (16-14 AWG). Would a larger store
> have what I need and what would I ask for?


Hey Taylor...
I'd head for an electrical supply house or go electrician. Hunt for saddle
clamps of a size appropriate for your wires. These things have kind of a
house shaped (box with one side that forms a v shape like a house roof) In
the 'floor' of the house there is a screw that crimps the wires together in
the "v". While you're there, see if they have electric stove switches that
match the ones from the kiln. I've found they last much longer than those
supplied with kilns.

Tom Wirt

William & Susan Schran User on fri 11 jan 08


On 1/10/08 10:34 PM, "Taylor Hendrix" wrote:

> My question is will these insulated crimp connectors from Ace be okay?
> They are not copper or brass but some kind of silver metal
> (aluminum?). I just can't afford to order all new pigtails from
> Paragon and I do need to get to firing bisque and glaze loads ASAP. I
> believe I have sized them correctly (16-14 AWG). Would a larger store
> have what I need and what would I ask for?
>
> And one more thing. I hate the old wire configurations for the switch
> boxes. With the newer switches I have to install them upside down so
> that the L1 and L2 terminals will be at the bottom of the box where
> the power enters. Otherwise I have all kinds of bends right over the
> back of the switch making my life hell.

I'd suggest your first take a few images of your wiring and send that to
Arnold so he can decide if it's a "that's ok" or "don't turn that on!".

Second - get rid of crimped connections and change to split bolt or barrel
bolt - did a demo of these at last NCECA.
Again, Arnold can assist you with this. Paragon does use the barrel bolt
connections.

Flex all the lead wires. If they feel "crunchy" and don't bend freely,
change them!

Bill

--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com

Taylor Hendrix on fri 11 jan 08


I am not talking about connections to the element tails. I have the
connectors that Paragon ships with elements and I attached them
correctly. The connections I am talking about are the barrel bolt to
switch and switch to power connections.

I will call around for bulk high temperature wire, but not sure what
to be sure to look for.

Taylor

On Jan 11, 2008 7:28 AM, William & Susan Schran User wrote:
...
> I'd suggest your first take a few images of your wiring and send that to
> Arnold so he can decide if it's a "that's ok" or "don't turn that on!".
>
> Second - get rid of crimped connections and change to split bolt or barrel
> bolt - did a demo of these at last NCECA.
> Again, Arnold can assist you with this. Paragon does use the barrel bolt
> connections.
>
> Flex all the lead wires. If they feel "crunchy" and don't bend freely,
> change them!
...

William & Susan Schran User on fri 11 jan 08


On 1/11/08 10:08 AM, "Taylor Hendrix" wrote:

> I will call around for bulk high temperature wire, but not sure what
> to be sure to look for.

Contact Arnold, he will tell you what to buy.

Bill

--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com

Taylor Hendrix on fri 11 jan 08


Update Rockport:

I replaced the broken terminal with a new one rated for 16-14 AWG. I
stripped off the plastic that was on them for insulation. I was
worried it wouldn't handle the high temp of the boxes. Everything
looks good. I'm firing a bisque as I type this. Things look good.

Still interested in rewiring things from bulk wire.

Taylor, in Rockport TX

Donald Burroughs on sat 12 jan 08


Hello Taylor
Depending on the size of your local, see if there is anyone who does
wiring for industrial furnaces in your local yellow pages. I did, and
found someone who could make the appropriate braided high temp wiring.
They should have the appropriate crimp connectors you are looking for as
well. Local hardware stores will not have be able to supply you with such
specialized connectors. Otherwise contact euclids.com .

Don