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mixing glaze /how to: a primer

updated wed 14 nov 07

 

mel jacobson on sat 10 nov 07


i have had several private posts about
hand mixing. anything bad in a glaze will
come right into your body through your skin.
barium is bad (i know all the debates..just be careful.)
manganese is bad
lead is bad............and other stuff is bad.

it sure won't hurt to test a glaze thickness with your
finger....but why stick your entire arm in a bucket?
ick. anyway....if you are not worried, what a mess.

so here are a few ideas.

drill motor:
add a,
jiffy mixer, or others advertised in clay magazine.
sheet rock mixer
paint mixer...about 10 different ones at home depot.
a quarter inch steel rod with three links of chain welded to the bottom.
(center the links)
a quarter inch steel rod with a tuna can welded to the bottom. (dumb,
it will rust out in no time.)

wooden stick with a kitchen strainer tapped to the bottom.
(not only mixes well, but takes out the small bits of bisque that
are on the bottom of the bucket.)
strainers and screens mix as well as anything. just run it through
a window screen three times...out comes the crap/and it is well
mixed.) using a 90 mesh takes all day...good for fussy folks
for the first pass through.

wooden stick/ period.
any kind of canoe or small boat paddle.
(many remember that i kept a 50 gallon drum of base glaze
in my classroom...with a canoe paddle in it. that glaze never
settled. there was always a boy practicing his J stroke. `hey
wally, get away from that glaze..and stop stirring it.` (see the book
tom sawyer/paint fence.)

measuring cups tapped to a stick.
all sizes from two cup to quarter cup.
great for that last mix before you glaze, and fill the inside
of the pots from the dipper/cup. if you do it right...you will never get
glaze on your fingers...clean as whistle.

i hate washing my hands 80 times when glazing pots.
i have systems that allow me to glaze fast...and keep the
mess off the floor and body. a deep ring foot helps.

how many times does ron roy have to tell us:
KEEP GLAZE IN THE BUCKET WET...OFF THE FLOOR, TABLES
AND YOU. DO NOT SWEEP IT. MOP IT. USE WATER, LOTS OF
WATER.
I SAWDUST COVER MY FLOOR. OILED SAWDUST. LOTS OF IT.
CLAY AND GLAZE STICK TO IT...AND I KEEP GLAZE AND CLAY
OFF MY FLOOR. I USE A GARDEN HOSE...FULL BLAST ABOUT
5 TIMES A YEAR, ALL OVER MY STUDIO.
DOWN THE DRAIN IN THE FLOOR.
EVERY NEW STUDIO BUILT IN THE WORLD SHOULD HAVE
SLOPPED FLOORS TO A BIG DRAIN. i visit clay studios
all over america...and wonder...`a potter sure did not design
this place.` pretty though.

you know, we watered the floor in japan.
mr. uchida would walk around with a watering can...and wet
the entire floor..twice a day. and, we took our shoes off when
we threw pots. no dust flying around.
imahori did not spill a drop of glaze...ever. we had one room just
for barrels of white glaze...he would not even let me go
in the room. colored glazes where in a closet...with the door shut.

so...lots of ways to mix glaze without using your body.
be safe. use your head....if you have one.
invent clean ways to work.

oh well, a little lung disease at 55 is not too bad.
they have those oxygen tanks that you can pull behind you
in a little cart. of course, you can't smoke with that
hose up your nose.
they say fear does not work...people do what they do.
but, i like to stick the needle in..now and then.
mel



from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/

Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html

Logan Johnson on sat 10 nov 07


Hi Mel & All ,

Let's not forget the toilet brush ! (get thee to the dollar store!)
So far it's the best mixing tool I've used. (that doesn't have a pouring cup already covered in glaze (that always trumps any other mixer!) ;oD
Logan

mel jacobson wrote:
>so here are a few ideas.

>drill motor:
>add a,
>jiffy mixer, or others advertised in clay magazine.
>sheet rock mixer
>paint mixer...about 10 different ones at home depot.
>a quarter inch steel rod with three links of chain welded to the bottom.
>(center the links)
>a quarter inch steel rod with a tuna can welded to the bottom. (dumb,
>it will rust out in no time.)

>wooden stick with a kitchen strainer tapped to the bottom.
>(not only mixes well, but takes out the small bits of bisque that
>are on the bottom of the bucket.)
>wooden stick/ period.
>any kind of canoe or small boat paddle.
>measuring cups tapped to a stick.





from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/

Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html

______________________________________________________________________________
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com



Logan Johnson
Yakima Valley Pottery & Supply
719 w. Nob Hill blvd.
Yakima Wa. 98902
(509) 469-6966
www.yakimavalleypottery.net
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L. P. Skeen on sat 10 nov 07


The problem with ye olde toilet brush is those damn bristles break off =
in the glaze sometimes, especially as it gets older (the brush, not the =
potter. ;) ) =20

I joined the Bill vanGilder Fan Club when I tried using a plain ol' =
plastic ladle. It scoops the blobs of settled glaze off the bottom of =
the bucket quite nicely, and then I can go after it with the wire whisk =
for total incorporation. :)

L
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Logan Johnson=20
Let's not forget the toilet brush ! (get thee to the dollar store!)
So far it's the best mixing tool I've used.

John Rodgers on sat 10 nov 07


Mel,

I'm with you. I don't want glaze chemicals on me or in me. I use the
masks and gloves to ensure it remains that way.

When I mix glaze - I make 16 gallons at a time. That works for me for my
size operation. I bought some very flat bottomed plastic containers a
the local seed and feed store - they work perfect. I weigh out the
ingredients for a glaze very carefully so as to minimize dust creation.
I open the door to the shop, turn the fan on behind me to blow to the
outside, then I put water in the 16 gallon container and sprinkle the
dry glaze mix into it. The fan moves dust to the great out doors, but I
have on the mask and gloves just to be sure. When everything is wetted,
I beat the ever-loving-daylights out of it with a big power drill that I
have with a large paint mixing head on it. Then I let the glaze sit over
night. Next day, I beat it up again, then run it all though a 100 mesh
sieve in the bottom of a Talisman strainer. Once done, it's ready to
use. There is enough glaze there to dip just about anything I want to
dip. BUT - I do not dip plates and platters. They get sprayed. Dunno
why, but I have NEVER gotten good results with dipping flat stuff.
Plates etc, I spray until there is "Fur" growing on the plate. then I
get a good glaze when fired. Anything less, it goes to crap.

For small batches, I keep glaze in open mouth jugs that porcelain slip
comes in. I use a stainless mixer designed just for mixing that slip in
those 1 gallon containers. Tha little mixer works perfect for those
single gallons of glaze, too.

My way - works for me.

John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL


mel jacobson wrote:
> i have had several private posts about
> hand mixing. anything bad in a glaze will
> come right into your body through your skin.
> barium is bad (i know all the debates..just be careful.)
> manganese is bad
> lead is bad............and other stuff is bad.
>
> it sure won't hurt to test a glaze thickness with your
> finger....but why stick your entire arm in a bucket?
> ick. anyway....if you are not worried, what a mess.
>
> so here are a few ideas.
>
> drill motor:
> add a,
> jiffy mixer, or others advertised in clay magazine.
> sheet rock mixer
> paint mixer...about 10 different ones at home depot.
> a quarter inch steel rod with three links of chain welded to the bottom.
> (center the links)
> a quarter inch steel rod with a tuna can welded to the bottom. (dumb,
> it will rust out in no time.)
>
> wooden stick with a kitchen strainer tapped to the bottom.
> (not only mixes well, but takes out the small bits of bisque that
> are on the bottom of the bucket.)
> strainers and screens mix as well as anything. just run it through
> a window screen three times...out comes the crap/and it is well
> mixed.) using a 90 mesh takes all day...good for fussy folks
> for the first pass through.
>
> wooden stick/ period.
> any kind of canoe or small boat paddle.
> (many remember that i kept a 50 gallon drum of base glaze
> in my classroom...with a canoe paddle in it. that glaze never
> settled. there was always a boy practicing his J stroke. `hey
> wally, get away from that glaze..and stop stirring it.` (see the book
> tom sawyer/paint fence.)
>
> measuring cups tapped to a stick.
> all sizes from two cup to quarter cup.
> great for that last mix before you glaze, and fill the inside
> of the pots from the dipper/cup. if you do it right...you will never get
> glaze on your fingers...clean as whistle.
>
> i hate washing my hands 80 times when glazing pots.
> i have systems that allow me to glaze fast...and keep the
> mess off the floor and body. a deep ring foot helps.
>
> how many times does ron roy have to tell us:
> KEEP GLAZE IN THE BUCKET WET...OFF THE FLOOR, TABLES
> AND YOU. DO NOT SWEEP IT. MOP IT. USE WATER, LOTS OF
> WATER.
> I SAWDUST COVER MY FLOOR. OILED SAWDUST. LOTS OF IT.
> CLAY AND GLAZE STICK TO IT...AND I KEEP GLAZE AND CLAY
> OFF MY FLOOR. I USE A GARDEN HOSE...FULL BLAST ABOUT
> 5 TIMES A YEAR, ALL OVER MY STUDIO.
> DOWN THE DRAIN IN THE FLOOR.
> EVERY NEW STUDIO BUILT IN THE WORLD SHOULD HAVE
> SLOPPED FLOORS TO A BIG DRAIN. i visit clay studios
> all over america...and wonder...`a potter sure did not design
> this place.` pretty though.
>
> you know, we watered the floor in japan.
> mr. uchida would walk around with a watering can...and wet
> the entire floor..twice a day. and, we took our shoes off when
> we threw pots. no dust flying around.
> imahori did not spill a drop of glaze...ever. we had one room just
> for barrels of white glaze...he would not even let me go
> in the room. colored glazes where in a closet...with the door shut.
>
> so...lots of ways to mix glaze without using your body.
> be safe. use your head....if you have one.
> invent clean ways to work.
>
> oh well, a little lung disease at 55 is not too bad.
> they have those oxygen tanks that you can pull behind you
> in a little cart. of course, you can't smoke with that
> hose up your nose.
> they say fear does not work...people do what they do.
> but, i like to stick the needle in..now and then.
> mel
>
>
>
> from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
> website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
>
> Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
>

Helen Bates on sat 10 nov 07


On Sat, 10 Nov 2007 06:27:32 -0600, mel jacobson wrote:

>i have had several private posts about
>hand mixing. anything bad in a glaze will
>come right into your body through your skin.
>barium is bad (i know all the debates..just be careful.)
>manganese is bad
>lead is bad............and other stuff is bad.

Hi Mel and all,

I don't know what was in it, but a glaze I was given at an acquaintance's
studio and taught to hand stir in the late 1990's that lead to a severe, and
ultimately recurring contact dermatitis on my hands.

I say recurring, because eventually even clay itself on my hands caused the
rash. The glaze was old, and had a lot of iron in it. What else it may
have had I don't know...

I couldn't use clay anymore without the protection of gloves, and couldn't
throw with gloves unless they were made of nitrile, and thus difficult to
tear. By the time I acquired the small size I needed to fit my hands
tightly so they wouldn't bunch up while I was throwing, many months had gone
by, and I lost my interest in clay making. The last work I did was almost 5
years ago...

I till enjoy looking at pottery and all things clay, though!

Helen
--
Helen Bates
Belleville, Ontario, Canada
Clayarters' URLs: http://amsterlaw.com/clayart/

Joseph Herbert on sun 11 nov 07


I would like to suggest toilet bowl brushes, one per glaze container, for
general mixing duties.

These are cheap, usually a dollar each, and really effective. Each can
reside in its bucket ready to do its duty. Less glaze is wasted since it is
not necessary to wash the mixing device - it is dedicated to that glaze
bucket. The only time I have had problems with this device is if a glaze is
clay poor and settles to the cement stage. another defect with the system
is the tendency for some to not recognize that the brushes are to stay in
the buckets, not to be washed out after each use. Once the glazes are
balanced and the users are informed, mixing can be nearly bliss - nearly.

I do not really like the combination of jiffy mixers and plastic buckets.
The contact between the mixer blades and the bucket sides, while nearly
unavoidable, creates plastic debris that will create goobies on your pot
surface. The solution if it (bucket damage) has already happened is to
screen the glaze, not always bad, but time consuming and it can be made
unnecessary.

Joe



Joseph Herbert
Technical Writer
Irving, Texas
214-725-8305 (Cell)
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Terrance Lazaroff on sun 11 nov 07


The best glaze mixer is to take a ball shaped toilet cleaner and cut the
handle off.
Drill a one eight hole in the center of brush where the handle was attached.
Take a two-foot piece of one eight steel rod and glue it into the hole of
that you made in the brush. Now attach the rod to your drill and mix.

I keep a bucket of water handy to clean the brush after use. Immediately
after I mix the glaze, I just stick the brush into the water and turn on my
drill.

Great tool

Randall Moody on mon 12 nov 07


At the arts center where I teach someone had the fantastic idea of a toilet
brush in each 5 gallon glaze bucket. No need to drill, rinse etc. I don't
know who came up with it but it is genius!

Randall

On Nov 11, 2007 5:34 PM, Terrance Lazaroff wrote:

> The best glaze mixer is to take a ball shaped toilet cleaner and cut the
> handle off.
> Drill a one eight hole in the center of brush where the handle was
> attached.
> Take a two-foot piece of one eight steel rod and glue it into the hole of
> that you made in the brush. Now attach the rod to your drill and mix.
>
> I keep a bucket of water handy to clean the brush after use. Immediately
> after I mix the glaze, I just stick the brush into the water and turn on
> my
> drill.
>
> Great tool
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>

Kelly Johnston on mon 12 nov 07


I've had great success lately with a cheap hand blender. Our local
pottery club has a great quantity of already made up glazes that
settled and required re-wetting and sieving. What a nightmare! The
hand blender ($8 at the dollar store!) goes right into the bucket and
whizzes away -- no more chunks or lumps. I still sieve at the end to
remove any remaining debris, but it has been a magic solution. The
hand blender gets whizzed in a bucket of clean water to clean it off
and is ready to go on the next glaze.

Kelly J in Emerald, Australia

Russel Fouts on tue 13 nov 07


>> I would like to suggest toilet bowl brushes, one per glaze container, for
general mixing duties. ...... The only time I have had problems with
this device is if a glaze is clay poor and settles to the cement stage. <<

I find them valuable in exactly this situation. They will get a
'hard-panned' glaze into suspension quicker than anything else.

My Maiolica glaze is mostly frit and can settle out quite hard if
left for a very long time. A toilet brush gets up fairly quickly.

It would work even better if they made one with a longer, stiffer
handle that would fit into a drill. I've cut the grip part off and
used them like that in a drill but they tend to be too short for my
buckets. Also, keep them immersed when the drill is turning fast or
they start waving about, dangerously or at least messily.

Round brushes; stencil brushes, etc work great to mix smaller samples
or glaze tests. And those big round brushes work great in a sieve.

I only use my jiffy mixer when I'm mixing up large, fresh batches of
glaze. After that I use the toilet brushes.

And each one lives in it's own glaze or terra-sig.

Russel



Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75

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