James and Sherron Bowen on fri 17 aug 07
I use a small crock pot. It is slow to getup to temperature but I am not too
concerned about a fire and it has a lid. I thinned the paraffin with colored
lamp oil.
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hank Murrow"
To:
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: Wax resist.
> On Aug 17, 2007, at 3:30 PM, Lee Love wrote:
>>
>>
>> In Mashiko, the wax and kerosene is placed in a pan of water.
>> Maybe a double boiler would work too? Crockpot?
>
> Sounds plausible. I observed last summer at Hamada Shinsaku's
> compound that workers were burning charcoal in a can(#10 size) which
> was moved closer or further from a can containing a wax mixture.
> Closer made it more fluid, further made it less fluid. I did not ask
> what the wax mixture was, but it was obviously based on paraffin. I
> have a pic if anyone is interested.
>
> Cheers, Hank
> www.murrow.biz/hank
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
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>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
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>
>
Bill Merrill on fri 17 aug 07
Because of ease of use, most potters use Aftosa wax resist. I have a
very well ventilated studio thathas large doors open so the studio is
like it's outside. I use Aftosa, but prefer a mixture of kerosene and
paraffin. I melt the wax in an electric frying pan and add kerosene to
the mix. I use it at 280 degrees test the mix on a piece of broken
bisque ware. If it is too greasy, I add some more wax. It by liquid
volume. The kerosene is less than the wax by volume. If it doesn't
brush well (using a brush that holds wax easily) I add a little more
kerosene. This should not be done with an open burner, as the mixture
could ignite! This wax is super resistant to glaze.
I use it to put over glaze materials I don't want to move after glazing
or putting on dry materials that I don't want to move=20
in loading the kiln. Some potters add some oil for chain saws to the
mix because it adds color and is easy to see. The color goes away very
soon however. =20
=20
If you use Aftosa, put it on so that it is heavy. You cannot wait as
the Aftosa resists itself if you want to make it thicker. It works best
after drying for 24 hours.
=20
If you use the hot wax be very cautious of the heat and fumes. I know a
potter who was working with a regular frying pan and the wax ignited.
He used pliers to get the pan out of the studio. He really burned his
hands, so be extra cautious if you try this old fashioned wax resist.
=20
Regards,
=20
billm@pcadmin.ctc.edu
=20
=20
Lee Love on fri 17 aug 07
On 8/17/07, Bill Merrill wrote:
> kerosene. This should not be done with an open burner, as the mixture
> could ignite! This wax is super resistant to glaze.
In Mashiko, the wax and kerosene is placed in a pan of water.
Maybe a double boiler would work too? Crockpot?
--
Lee in Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
discussion on Beauty:
http://journals.fotki.com/togeika/beauty/
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"For a democracy of excellence, the goal is not to reduce things to a
common denominator but to raise things to a shared worth."
--Paolo Soleri
Hank Murrow on fri 17 aug 07
On Aug 17, 2007, at 3:30 PM, Lee Love wrote:
>
>
> In Mashiko, the wax and kerosene is placed in a pan of water.
> Maybe a double boiler would work too? Crockpot?
Sounds plausible. I observed last summer at Hamada Shinsaku's
compound that workers were burning charcoal in a can(#10 size) which
was moved closer or further from a can containing a wax mixture.
Closer made it more fluid, further made it less fluid. I did not ask
what the wax mixture was, but it was obviously based on paraffin. I
have a pic if anyone is interested.
Cheers, Hank
www.murrow.biz/hank
Bonnie Staffel on sat 18 aug 07
Bill wrote: If you use the hot wax be very cautious of the heat and =
fumes.
I know a potter who was working with a regular frying pan and the wax
ignited. He used pliers to get the pan out of the studio. He really =
burned
his hands, so be extra cautious if you try this old fashioned wax =
resist.
I always keep the lid to the electric fry pan nearby when using hot wax. =
If
a fire starts, using a hot pad, put the lid on the fry pan which should
extinguish the flames immediately. Carrying a flaming pot of wax is =
asking
for disaster as the wax could spill spreading the fire further. When
heating my paraffin, I use just the highest WARM temperature and if =
still
too thick, then add the oil until it becomes the right melt at that
temperature. =20
Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD Introduction to Wheel Work
Charter Member Potters Council
iglasgo on sat 18 aug 07
I may soon have access to a pretty good quantity of beeswax seconds.
Has anyone had experience with using beeswax as a resist? Is it
possible to make wax resist by mixing beeswax and lamp oil? I like the
idea of using a crockpot to hold the wax. I think that would work well
for me.
-Ivy G.
--- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, James and Sherron Bowen
wrote:
>
> I use a small crock pot. It is slow to getup to temperature but I am
not too
> concerned about a fire and it has a lid. I thinned the paraffin with
colored
> lamp oil.
> JB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Hank Murrow"
> To:
> Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 9:13 PM
> Subject: Re: Wax resist.
>
>
> > On Aug 17, 2007, at 3:30 PM, Lee Love wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> In Mashiko, the wax and kerosene is placed in a pan of water.
> >> Maybe a double boiler would work too? Crockpot?
> >
> > Sounds plausible. I observed last summer at Hamada Shinsaku's
> > compound that workers were burning charcoal in a can(#10 size) which
> > was moved closer or further from a can containing a wax mixture.
> > Closer made it more fluid, further made it less fluid. I did not ask
> > what the wax mixture was, but it was obviously based on paraffin. I
> > have a pic if anyone is interested.
> >
> > Cheers, Hank
> > www.murrow.biz/hank
> >
> >
___________________________________________________________________________=
___
> > Send postings to clayart@...
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots@...
> >
> >
>
>
___________________________________________________________________________=
___
> Send postings to clayart@...
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@...
>
KATHI LESUEUR on sun 19 aug 07
On Aug 18, 2007, at 8:24 AM, Bonnie Staffel wrote:
> Bill wrote: If you use the hot wax be very cautious of the heat and
> fumes.
> I know a potter who was working with a regular frying pan and the wax
> ignited. He used pliers to get the pan out of the studio. He
> really burned
> his hands, so be extra cautious if you try this old fashioned wax
> resist.
>
> I always keep the lid to the electric fry pan nearby when using hot
> wax. If
> a fire starts, using a hot pad, put the lid on the fry pan which
> should
> extinguish the flames immediately. Carrying a flaming pot of wax
> is asking
> for disaster as the wax could spill spreading the fire further. When
> heating my paraffin, I use just the highest WARM temperature and if
> still
> too thick, then add the oil until it becomes the right melt at that
> temperature.
>
I also use a small electric frying pan for my wax. I don't thing
anything beats hot wax when you've put one glaze on a pot and want to
mask out an area before pouring another on. One thing I have learned
is to bring the temperature up slowly. Turn it on at a low setting.
When the wax has completely melted turn it up about five degrees.
Then another five until you reach the temperature that is optimum. If
you turn it on high right from the beginning you are guaranteed to
have smoking wax. And, as Bonnie said, keep that lid close. The same
goes with a fire on the stove. Baking soda will put a flame out. But,
a lid is far faster. Keep one handy.
Kathi
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