Mark Potter on tue 21 aug 07
I have a few designs in mind for a modification to a gas fired
downdraft kiln .. . to make it into a wood-gas kiln.
I'd love any advice or thoughts at all on this. . .I have built a gas
kiln. . .and fired wood a lot. . . have a good understanding of
kilns. . . but need any help I can get because I'm trying to build
something which I don't think has been done before.
My idea is to modify the side walls of my downdraft kiln (It has an
arched top) two gas burners at the rear. . modify the side walls so
that they in essence become bag walls to two other chambers one on
each side. . . feeding into the kiln. Each of those side kilns would
be wood stoked. . . with a small firebox and a small stacking
area. . . .
The idea would be to fire gas in the center . . . and concurrently
stoke two seperate kilns each supplying supplemental heat to the main
gas kiln. The idea would be to finish with wood only. . . and use gas
only in the beginning.
Any design aids?
Do you people out there recommend CAD for making hypothetical mini
bricks to start stacking up?
Other thoughts. . . ????
WJ Seidl on tue 21 aug 07
Mark:
Check with your local gas company. They may take a VERY dim view of what
you propose.
Rather than run back and forth like a tennis pro, firing both fireboxes,
you might want to consider a design
Lee Love had for a wood fired kiln with _one_ firebox. Then modify that
design to accept the burners.
The idea I'm wrassling with now is to install the burners into two
channels (one on either side) leading into the flame path from the
firebox to the main chamber in a kind of "venturi" arrangement, (the
burners channels entering at 45 degrees). Think of the flame paths and
burner channels
in the configuration of a "peace sign", where the top of the center leg
ends in the main chamber of the kiln, and the bottom of the leg is the
wood firebox.
Prevents wood fire/smoke/ash from blowing back into the gas burners,
keeps 'em cleaner.
With the right engineering, those two burner ports would be secondary
air vents, replacing the mouseholes or similar.
Still working on it....because I don't care what the gas company thinks .
Best,
Wayne Seidl
Mark Potter wrote:
> I have a few designs in mind for a modification to a gas fired
> downdraft kiln .. . to make it into a wood-gas kiln.
>
> I'd love any advice or thoughts at all on this. . .I have built a gas
> kiln. . .and fired wood a lot. . . have a good understanding of
> kilns. . . but need any help I can get because I'm trying to build
> something which I don't think has been done before.
>
> My idea is to modify the side walls of my downdraft kiln (It has an
> arched top) two gas burners at the rear. . modify the side walls so
> that they in essence become bag walls to two other chambers one on
> each side. . . feeding into the kiln. Each of those side kilns would
> be wood stoked. . . with a small firebox and a small stacking
> area. . . .
>
> The idea would be to fire gas in the center . . . and concurrently
> stoke two seperate kilns each supplying supplemental heat to the main
> gas kiln. The idea would be to finish with wood only. . . and use gas
> only in the beginning.
>
> Any design aids?
>
> Do you people out there recommend CAD for making hypothetical mini
> bricks to start stacking up?
>
> Other thoughts. . . ????
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Mark Potter on wed 22 aug 07
Wayne . . and others who might like to weigh in. . .
Thanks for the tip about the gas company. . . very astute also the
idea of mixing wood and gas .. . so obviously . . . may not jive with
our fire inspector either. . . (industrial building, but a city never
the less). . .
wood at 6 oclock. . . gas entering at 8 oclock and 4 oclock. . . .
exit flue at noon. . . I really like this idea. . . . but I want to
accomplish it with two cubes rather than a long single chamber. . .
the reason is that sometimes I'll just want to fire gas, in which
case I'll just not fire the wood cube, which would be smaller.
So adding your suggestion to what I have already imagine this (if
reading this is too difficult say so and I'll try to get some sort of
sketch on the web). . . .
A large two-cubic chamber kiln, that would take two adjacent stacks
of 12 x 24" shelves, with two rolling doors, one fiber for gas
firings (already built) the other brick for wood firings. Imagine
the exit flue on the wall to the right of the door. The main chamber
has a shallow sprung arch top, hardbrick liner, softbrick insulation.
The second, much smaller chamber for the wood firing, would have a
hinged or pulley lowered flattop lid, since this stacking area would
be at max 24 x 24 x 24, and a firebox at one end of it. This is the
'wood kiln' but all it's exit gasses would pass through the gas
kiln. . .
Now . . . imagine the entire firebox and wood chamber with it's 24 x
24 x 24 stacking chamber, and stoking hole. . . on a heavy welded
plate, on super heavy duty rollers, that could 'back up' from the
left side of the gas chamber, so that the perforated 'bag wall' could
be bricked up for gas only firings.
Though heavy it wouldn't be prohibitively so since the 24 x 24 x 24
chamber would in essence have only four sides, floor, front back, and
firebox. The firebox would weigh quite a lot, and so would it's
arched cover.
Now imagine your gas burners entering the larger gas chamber at the
two corners on top of the left side. One would be right in front of
the door to the wood chamber, the front burner would have to be
flexibly piped so it could be taken out of the way.
The exit flue would be at the bottom on the right side of the main
chamber, as in a Vermont downdraft. Having the burners enter from
front left and back left would in essence turn the Vermont downdraft
into a downdraft/crossdraft. . . but would work with the incoming ash
to keep it moving towards the flue, rapidly. This is the part I'm in
doubt about, whether to put the gas burners on the bottom, or the
top, . . .
When viewed from the front
The brick I'm using is all hard and soft brick from a Vermont style
downdraft. . . a fairly tall one that had a fiber door. . I have
enough extra hard brick to make an ancillary chamber (fire box and
maybe some stacking). . .
I don't mind totally reconfiguring the design (all the brick's on
pallets) but I want to avoid having to cut bricks into arches, in
other words the brick I have lends itself to building cubes, not
arches. . .
I was sketching yesterday and came up with something like you suggested
On Aug 21, 2007, at 7:29 PM, WJ Seidl wrote:
> Mark:
> Check with your local gas company. They may take a VERY dim view of
> what
> you propose.
>
> Rather than run back and forth like a tennis pro, firing both
> fireboxes,
> you might want to consider a design
> Lee Love had for a wood fired kiln with _one_ firebox. Then modify
> that
> design to accept the burners.
>
> The idea I'm wrassling with now is to install the burners into two
> channels (one on either side) leading into the flame path from the
> firebox to the main chamber in a kind of "venturi" arrangement, (the
> burners channels entering at 45 degrees). Think of the flame paths
> and
> burner channels
> in the configuration of a "peace sign", where the top of the center
> leg
> ends in the main chamber of the kiln, and the bottom of the leg is the
> wood firebox.
> Prevents wood fire/smoke/ash from blowing back into the gas burners,
> keeps 'em cleaner.
> With the right engineering, those two burner ports would be secondary
> air vents, replacing the mouseholes or similar.
> Still working on it....because I don't care what the gas company
> thinks .
> Best,
> Wayne Seidl
>
> Mark Potter wrote:
>> I have a few designs in mind for a modification to a gas fired
>> downdraft kiln .. . to make it into a wood-gas kiln.
>>
>> I'd love any advice or thoughts at all on this. . .I have built a gas
>> kiln. . .and fired wood a lot. . . have a good understanding of
>> kilns. . . but need any help I can get because I'm trying to build
>> something which I don't think has been done before.
>>
>> My idea is to modify the side walls of my downdraft kiln (It has an
>> arched top) two gas burners at the rear. . modify the side walls so
>> that they in essence become bag walls to two other chambers one on
>> each side. . . feeding into the kiln. Each of those side kilns would
>> be wood stoked. . . with a small firebox and a small stacking
>> area. . . .
>>
>> The idea would be to fire gas in the center . . . and concurrently
>> stoke two seperate kilns each supplying supplemental heat to the main
>> gas kiln. The idea would be to finish with wood only. . . and use gas
>> only in the beginning.
>>
>> Any design aids?
>>
>> Do you people out there recommend CAD for making hypothetical mini
>> bricks to start stacking up?
>>
>> Other thoughts. . . ????
>>
>> _____________________________________________________________________
>> _________
>>
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Luke Cassingham on thu 23 aug 07
Mark,
I just finished building a kiln that I made to be able to do exactly what
your proposing. Firing with either wood or gas. The gas burners that I
have are raku burners that I can put into the front and back of the bourry
box on the bottom by just moving a few bricks around. Also, this being a
bourry box design makes it so that it burns fairly clean & you should have
less issues w/ neighbors complaining due to smoke. Check out my kiln
pictures as I have several pictures of it that may give you an idea of how
to arrange yours. Of course, I have an arch over the top, but if your going
to do an MFT style top, it might even make your life a little easier. If
you have any questions, then by all means let me know.
Luke
Pictures of kiln at:
http://public.fotki.com/BrimstonePottery/woodfired-salt-kiln/
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Mark Potter
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 10:06 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Best way to develop Kiln Designs - Modify Gas to Wood/Gas
Wayne . . and others who might like to weigh in. . .
Thanks for the tip about the gas company. . . very astute also the
idea of mixing wood and gas .. . so obviously . . . may not jive with
our fire inspector either. . . (industrial building, but a city never
the less). . .
wood at 6 oclock. . . gas entering at 8 oclock and 4 oclock. . . .
exit flue at noon. . . I really like this idea. . . . but I want to
accomplish it with two cubes rather than a long single chamber. . .
the reason is that sometimes I'll just want to fire gas, in which
case I'll just not fire the wood cube, which would be smaller.
So adding your suggestion to what I have already imagine this (if
reading this is too difficult say so and I'll try to get some sort of
sketch on the web). . . .
A large two-cubic chamber kiln, that would take two adjacent stacks
of 12 x 24" shelves, with two rolling doors, one fiber for gas
firings (already built) the other brick for wood firings. Imagine
the exit flue on the wall to the right of the door. The main chamber
has a shallow sprung arch top, hardbrick liner, softbrick insulation.
The second, much smaller chamber for the wood firing, would have a
hinged or pulley lowered flattop lid, since this stacking area would
be at max 24 x 24 x 24, and a firebox at one end of it. This is the
'wood kiln' but all it's exit gasses would pass through the gas
kiln. . .
Now . . . imagine the entire firebox and wood chamber with it's 24 x
24 x 24 stacking chamber, and stoking hole. . . on a heavy welded
plate, on super heavy duty rollers, that could 'back up' from the
left side of the gas chamber, so that the perforated 'bag wall' could
be bricked up for gas only firings.
Though heavy it wouldn't be prohibitively so since the 24 x 24 x 24
chamber would in essence have only four sides, floor, front back, and
firebox. The firebox would weigh quite a lot, and so would it's
arched cover.
Now imagine your gas burners entering the larger gas chamber at the
two corners on top of the left side. One would be right in front of
the door to the wood chamber, the front burner would have to be
flexibly piped so it could be taken out of the way.
The exit flue would be at the bottom on the right side of the main
chamber, as in a Vermont downdraft. Having the burners enter from
front left and back left would in essence turn the Vermont downdraft
into a downdraft/crossdraft. . . but would work with the incoming ash
to keep it moving towards the flue, rapidly. This is the part I'm in
doubt about, whether to put the gas burners on the bottom, or the
top, . . .
When viewed from the front
The brick I'm using is all hard and soft brick from a Vermont style
downdraft. . . a fairly tall one that had a fiber door. . I have
enough extra hard brick to make an ancillary chamber (fire box and
maybe some stacking). . .
I don't mind totally reconfiguring the design (all the brick's on
pallets) but I want to avoid having to cut bricks into arches, in
other words the brick I have lends itself to building cubes, not
arches. . .
I was sketching yesterday and came up with something like you suggested
On Aug 21, 2007, at 7:29 PM, WJ Seidl wrote:
> Mark:
> Check with your local gas company. They may take a VERY dim view of
> what
> you propose.
>
> Rather than run back and forth like a tennis pro, firing both
> fireboxes,
> you might want to consider a design
> Lee Love had for a wood fired kiln with _one_ firebox. Then modify
> that
> design to accept the burners.
>
> The idea I'm wrassling with now is to install the burners into two
> channels (one on either side) leading into the flame path from the
> firebox to the main chamber in a kind of "venturi" arrangement, (the
> burners channels entering at 45 degrees). Think of the flame paths
> and
> burner channels
> in the configuration of a "peace sign", where the top of the center
> leg
> ends in the main chamber of the kiln, and the bottom of the leg is the
> wood firebox.
> Prevents wood fire/smoke/ash from blowing back into the gas burners,
> keeps 'em cleaner.
> With the right engineering, those two burner ports would be secondary
> air vents, replacing the mouseholes or similar.
> Still working on it....because I don't care what the gas company
> thinks .
> Best,
> Wayne Seidl
>
> Mark Potter wrote:
>> I have a few designs in mind for a modification to a gas fired
>> downdraft kiln .. . to make it into a wood-gas kiln.
>>
>> I'd love any advice or thoughts at all on this. . .I have built a gas
>> kiln. . .and fired wood a lot. . . have a good understanding of
>> kilns. . . but need any help I can get because I'm trying to build
>> something which I don't think has been done before.
>>
>> My idea is to modify the side walls of my downdraft kiln (It has an
>> arched top) two gas burners at the rear. . modify the side walls so
>> that they in essence become bag walls to two other chambers one on
>> each side. . . feeding into the kiln. Each of those side kilns would
>> be wood stoked. . . with a small firebox and a small stacking
>> area. . . .
>>
>> The idea would be to fire gas in the center . . . and concurrently
>> stoke two seperate kilns each supplying supplemental heat to the main
>> gas kiln. The idea would be to finish with wood only. . . and use gas
>> only in the beginning.
>>
>> Any design aids?
>>
>> Do you people out there recommend CAD for making hypothetical mini
>> bricks to start stacking up?
>>
>> Other thoughts. . . ????
>>
>> _____________________________________________________________________
>> _________
>>
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Lee Love on thu 23 aug 07
Mark,
You can see the plans to my little kiln here, and step-by--step photos.
http://public.fotki.com/togeika/my_kiln/
It can fire as fast as an Olsen, but you don't have to glaze
all the pots. If you ever noticed, most Olsen users glaze all their
pots.
I wanted to make it a two chamber, with a little cantenary
chamber behind the first, but I only had 3 months to build it, set up
my studio, make all my work and fire for my graduation show. So I
had to make what I knew would work.
Euan's original design also had LPG burners. He never used
them, but a friend fired it with only gas and it worked well.
One thing to remember when putting gas burners in is that
the wood flame is much longer. You don't want to put the burners in
the fire box, because the length of the flame in a wood kiln firebox
would keep most of your heat in the firebox and not the ware chamber.
You need the burners in the ware chamber.
On Euan's design, you can either put the burners in ports you
make when you stack the door, or, when you build it, you can make
ports on either side of the stack, the same as a MN Flat top design.
But, don't build your kiln thinking the gas burners will be a
crutch. Design it knowing it will reach temp without the gas
burners.
I wouldn't make arch bricks. Buy them. I'd especially
skip the flat top roof on a wood kiln. Being a tight wad in the
beginning will cost you more in the end. I would not recommend jury
rigging a woodkiln.
Read some books too. Read Olsen's and all the wood fire kiln
books. No need to reinvent the wheel. It will better your chances of
having a kiln that will reach temp and produce nicely fired work.
--
Lee in Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
discussion on Beauty:
http://journals.fotki.com/togeika/beauty/
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"For a democracy of excellence, the goal is not to reduce things to a
common denominator but to raise things to a shared worth."
--Paolo Soleri
Mark Potter on thu 23 aug 07
Lee . . . thank you so much for this. . . I'm going to digest this
and probably will get back with some questions. . .
all the best,
Mark
On Aug 23, 2007, at 8:52 AM, Lee Love wrote:
> Mark,
>
> You can see the plans to my little kiln here, and step-by--
> step photos.
>
> http://public.fotki.com/togeika/my_kiln/
>
> It can fire as fast as an Olsen, but you don't have to glaze
> all the pots. If you ever noticed, most Olsen users glaze all their
> pots.
>
> I wanted to make it a two chamber, with a little cantenary
> chamber behind the first, but I only had 3 months to build it, set up
> my studio, make all my work and fire for my graduation show. So I
> had to make what I knew would work.
>
> Euan's original design also had LPG burners. He never used
> them, but a friend fired it with only gas and it worked well.
>
> One thing to remember when putting gas burners in is that
> the wood flame is much longer. You don't want to put the burners in
> the fire box, because the length of the flame in a wood kiln firebox
> would keep most of your heat in the firebox and not the ware chamber.
> You need the burners in the ware chamber.
>
> On Euan's design, you can either put the burners in ports you
> make when you stack the door, or, when you build it, you can make
> ports on either side of the stack, the same as a MN Flat top design.
>
> But, don't build your kiln thinking the gas burners will be a
> crutch. Design it knowing it will reach temp without the gas
> burners.
>
> I wouldn't make arch bricks. Buy them. I'd especially
> skip the flat top roof on a wood kiln. Being a tight wad in the
> beginning will cost you more in the end. I would not recommend jury
> rigging a woodkiln.
>
> Read some books too. Read Olsen's and all the wood fire kiln
> books. No need to reinvent the wheel. It will better your chances of
> having a kiln that will reach temp and produce nicely fired work.
>
>
> --
> Lee in Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
> discussion on Beauty:
>
> http://journals.fotki.com/togeika/beauty/
>
> http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
>
> "For a democracy of excellence, the goal is not to reduce things to a
> common denominator but to raise things to a shared worth."
> --Paolo Soleri
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
WJ Seidl on thu 23 aug 07
Mark:
I think you're over-engineering it. (This from the guy who
over-engineers everything )
Use the same chamber for firing both gas and wood, and just find a way
to brick up the burner
entry ports when you're wood firing (or use them as secondary air).
This eliminates the doors, the second cube, having to move one chamber in
or out, one stack, etc.
Also, you're not going to get a good draft on the exit gases of the wood
firing if they have to pass through
the "gas" firing chamber. It would have to be heated up sufficiently to
"draw", and that's going to take a LOT of fuel
especially in the winter.
The simpler the design, the easier it will be to fire (less can go
wrong, no sealing of things to have to concern you).
Just my take on it.
But considering what I wrote, I may have been mistaken in my description
earlier. The flame path exits into the chamber at
the point where the hands attach in the center of the clock. The flame
path is "diverted" (blocked) by a shelf set about an inch or two
off the floor. (Is that a correct assessment, Lee?)
If you really want two chambers, Mark, then go for it, and let us know
how it works out, since we're rooting for you.
It certainly won't be the first "hybrid" kiln on the planet. With the
possible exception of mass produced gas and electrics,
I think all hand-built kilns pretty much are hybrids .
Best of luck!
Wayne Seidl
Mark Potter wrote:
> Wayne . . and others who might like to weigh in. . .
>
> Thanks for the tip about the gas company. . . very astute also the
> idea of mixing wood and gas .. . so obviously . . . may not jive with
> our fire inspector either. . . (industrial building, but a city never
> the less). . .
>
> wood at 6 oclock. . . gas entering at 8 oclock and 4 oclock. . . .
> exit flue at noon. . . I really like this idea. . . . but I want to
> accomplish it with two cubes rather than a long single chamber. . .
> the reason is that sometimes I'll just want to fire gas, in which
> case I'll just not fire the wood cube, which would be smaller.
>
> So adding your suggestion to what I have already imagine this (if
> reading this is too difficult say so and I'll try to get some sort of
> sketch on the web). . . .
>
> A large two-cubic chamber kiln, that would take two adjacent stacks
> of 12 x 24" shelves, with two rolling doors, one fiber for gas
> firings (already built) the other brick for wood firings. Imagine
> the exit flue on the wall to the right of the door. The main chamber
> has a shallow sprung arch top, hardbrick liner, softbrick insulation.
>
> The second, much smaller chamber for the wood firing, would have a
> hinged or pulley lowered flattop lid, since this stacking area would
> be at max 24 x 24 x 24, and a firebox at one end of it. This is the
> 'wood kiln' but all it's exit gasses would pass through the gas
> kiln. . .
>
> Now . . . imagine the entire firebox and wood chamber with it's 24 x
> 24 x 24 stacking chamber, and stoking hole. . . on a heavy welded
> plate, on super heavy duty rollers, that could 'back up' from the
> left side of the gas chamber, so that the perforated 'bag wall' could
> be bricked up for gas only firings.
>
> Though heavy it wouldn't be prohibitively so since the 24 x 24 x 24
> chamber would in essence have only four sides, floor, front back, and
> firebox. The firebox would weigh quite a lot, and so would it's
> arched cover.
>
> Now imagine your gas burners entering the larger gas chamber at the
> two corners on top of the left side. One would be right in front of
> the door to the wood chamber, the front burner would have to be
> flexibly piped so it could be taken out of the way.
>
> The exit flue would be at the bottom on the right side of the main
> chamber, as in a Vermont downdraft. Having the burners enter from
> front left and back left would in essence turn the Vermont downdraft
> into a downdraft/crossdraft. . . but would work with the incoming ash
> to keep it moving towards the flue, rapidly. This is the part I'm in
> doubt about, whether to put the gas burners on the bottom, or the
> top, . . .
>
> When viewed from the front
>
> The brick I'm using is all hard and soft brick from a Vermont style
> downdraft. . . a fairly tall one that had a fiber door. . I have
> enough extra hard brick to make an ancillary chamber (fire box and
> maybe some stacking). . .
>
> I don't mind totally reconfiguring the design (all the brick's on
> pallets) but I want to avoid having to cut bricks into arches, in
> other words the brick I have lends itself to building cubes, not
> arches. . .
>
>
>
> I was sketching yesterday and came up with something like you suggested
>
Lee Love on thu 23 aug 07
On 8/23/07, WJ Seidl wrote:
> But considering what I wrote, I may have been mistaken in my description
> earlier. The flame path exits into the chamber at
> the point where the hands attach in the center of the clock. The flame
> path is "diverted" (blocked) by a shelf set about an inch or two
> off the floor. (Is that a correct assessment, Lee?)
Yes, that is how Euan's design works. The flue channel runs
between the two fireboxes. An advantage of this, is that the
firechambers preheat the flue through conductive heat that passing
through the walls shared by the flue channel and the two fireboxes.
Bricks are spaced under the floor kiln shelves to help
channel the flame all around the bottom. There are also two "trick
bricks" in front, under the door, that allow you to close off the flue
exit at the bottom of the door. There is also a passive damper (my
modification) in front between the two fire chambers.
--
Lee in Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
discussion on Beauty:
"For a democracy of excellence, the goal is not to reduce things to a
common denominator but to raise things to a shared worth."
--Paolo Soleri
shane mickey on fri 24 aug 07
mark et al
i agree, make it work with wood, i do worry about the size of exit flue on a downdraft gas kiln, all the fireboxs in the world will not help that large expanse of gas trying to go thru that little gas exit flue! if your gas kiln is working, why not build a mini train, sounds like you have enough, try to reconfigure your chimney to accept a train on the back if possible. i just fear that you may take a working kiln out of business.
shane mickey
www.shanemickeypotterslife.blogspot.com
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