Elizabeth Priddy on wed 6 jun 07
Regarding wadding, here, I found beautiful marks and
great kiln wash comes from oyster shells. The calcined shells
are the kiln wash in my wood kiln. I also use wadding, but the shells
are great protection for the shells.
I used a small mesh sieve to scoop ash from the bottom where
I knew the hardwoods had fallen and simply shook it over a container
of clear glaze until it made small hillocks in the glaze. Then I blended it
with a stick blender and applied it to the pot with a hake brush.
So it was definitely not washed. Used gloves, a small kitchen sieve
into a bucket outdoors right by the kiln. My hands never touched it.
It came out great.
The next batch have braided wire feet for extra up off the kiln floor
and I have about 20 tea bowls.
The teapot shape I like is a teabowl with lugs and a detachable handle
made of reed or pampas grass with an insert that makes it off/on.
Beaufort, NC - USA
Natural Instincts Conference Registration Information:
----- Original Message ----
From: Lee Love togeika@CLAYCRAFT.ORG
The reasons for washing wood ash are to remove the caustic soluables
to save your skin while glazing. To help the glaze be more
consistent: if your glaze is 50% ash like mine is, and you leave
solubles in, a trash can of glaze you end up with is not the same as
what you begin with, especially if you add water during the glazing
process and ladle off the top water before you begin glazing. Wet
sieving is safer because you are not putting ash dust into the air
(always wear a mask when dry sieving.)
Seashell covered wads makes nice flashing on the feet.
Send postings to email@example.com
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Need a vacation? Get great deals
to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel.