search  current discussion  categories  glazes - specific colors 

pete's red/cranberry

updated tue 1 may 07

 

mel jacobson on sun 29 apr 07


from claytimes magazine
custer feldspar 73.8% /9.75 lbs mel's measure
gertsely borate 10.2 /1.3 lbs.
whiting 11.1 /1.5 lbs.
flint 4.9 /.75 lbs.
add:
copper carb .35% / 21 grams
tin 1.0 / 60+ grams ( i have doubled my tin)

cone 10 dark red
cone 11 starts to purple
i find a medium reduction good.
and i always down fire reds...or relite at about 1800F
make sure the glaze does not cool too fast.

from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/

Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html

Charlie Hightower on sun 29 apr 07


With all that flux the glaze doesn't run down the pot
at cone 10? I know copper reds are runny, however I
don't have experiance with them. How thick should this
be applied? Thanks for the recipe!
--- mel jacobson wrote:

> from claytimes magazine
> custer feldspar 73.8% /9.75 lbs mel's measure
> gertsely borate 10.2 /1.3 lbs.
> whiting 11.1 /1.5 lbs.
> flint 4.9 /.75 lbs.
> add:
> copper carb .35% / 21 grams
> tin 1.0 / 60+ grams ( i have doubled my tin)
>
> cone 10 dark red
> cone 11 starts to purple
> i find a medium reduction good.
> and i always down fire reds...or relite at about
> 1800F
> make sure the glaze does not cool too fast.
>
> from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
> website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
>
> Clayart page link:
> http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>

Dannon Rhudy on sun 29 apr 07


> With all that flux the glaze doesn't run down the pot
> at cone 10? I know copper reds are runny,;;;;;;;;;

Pete's Cranberry is a very stable glaze at cone 10. Most copper
red glazes need to be applied fairly thickly in order for the reds
to appear. The red color is actually beneath the surface. Think
of the red glaze as being in three layers: the layer next the clay,
one in the middle (red) and the surface. You can see this in
photographs of a slice of copper red glaze on clay. So - apply
fairly thickly; you'll need to practice to find what works for you.
Cool slowly. Very slowly. The red color becomes visible in
the cooling cycle, and if you cool too quickly you won't get the
reds you want.

regards

Dannon Rhudy

Charlie Hightower on mon 30 apr 07


Thank you. How slow would you think and over what
temp. range. I am going to have to fire down as I only
have access to a torchbearer style updraft. We work
with what we have.
--- Dannon Rhudy wrote:

> > With all that flux the glaze doesn't run down the
> pot
> > at cone 10? I know copper reds are runny,;;;;;;;;;
>
> Pete's Cranberry is a very stable glaze at cone 10.
> Most copper
> red glazes need to be applied fairly thickly in
> order for the reds
> to appear. The red color is actually beneath the
> surface. Think
> of the red glaze as being in three layers: the
> layer next the clay,
> one in the middle (red) and the surface. You can
> see this in
> photographs of a slice of copper red glaze on clay.
> So - apply
> fairly thickly; you'll need to practice to find what
> works for you.
> Cool slowly. Very slowly. The red color becomes
> visible in
> the cooling cycle, and if you cool too quickly you
> won't get the
> reds you want.
>
> regards
>
> Dannon Rhudy
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>