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quick dry/bisque fire/leather hard pots.

updated sat 14 apr 07


Chic Lotz + keith Montgomery on fri 13 apr 07


I use several tricks for fast drying leather hard pots that seem to
work well.
My theory to quick drying without cracks is to dry the bottom of the
pot first, or at least as fast as the thinner top part of the pot.
I can even dry plates quickly if I wrap the rims in dry cleaner bags
and let the bottom dry first.

The easiest way is to put them ontop of a cold electric that is going
to be fired.
So as not to pressure the lid of the kiln, I place them along the
outside rim of the lid which has some wall underneath it.
They heat up slowly with the kiln on and the bottoms dry first.

However, this does not work for platters with wrapped rims as the
plastic wrap would melt. Those I reserve for the next day.after
firing the kiln. I place some 1 or 2 inch kiln posts on the kiln the
next day, and then put the foot of the platter with wrapped rims on
the posts. The kiln should be warm (but not too hot) kiln lid. This
dries the bottoms first without melting the plastic.

Another option I use in the winter is my Delonghi
is a link,showProductSearchByUserSearch,,
AwIsCFSV0hgodmgvFqw......its the kind that heats up oil inside and
radiates heat......bought mine at the hardware store.
It "looks" like the old fashioned radiator type heater." It heats up
slowly, so I place the pots on it cold and then turn it on. Works
like a champ, but I can only do a 2 or 3 pots at a time If Im doing
a platter, I push only one of the switches to on........... that
heats it up even slower.

But your question was about putting them straight into the kiln. I
do that in extreme hurry conditions, and it works fine if I put the
pots up ontop of some 1/2 inch kiln posts so the hot air can dry
those bottoms as quickly as the tops. Be sure to do a very slow
firing. It works fine for everything, except plates and platters.

This works great for wheel thrown pieces.......I haven't dried hand
built pieces in this manner. Seems a bit riskier.