search  current discussion  categories  glazes - crazing & crackle 

white crackle

updated mon 13 dec 99

 

anne chambers on wed 12 jun 96

Hi everyone,
I'm looking for a white crackle glaze, satin or semi-mat surface.
I just tested an old glaze recipe dug up from my files:

Peter Lane's Crackle Glaze(^7-9)
Cornwall Stone 85
Whiting 15
Guess what.....no crackles, no crazing. Turned out a smooth satin white
on my porcelain at a high ^6.
Couldn't believe it...and to think what I go through some times to get
rid of crazing on a functional glaze!!!

Anyone have a white crackle glaze to share?
Thanks,
Anne (in sunny warm HUMID Ottawa)

Barnstudio Howard on tue 18 jun 96

In a message dated 96-06-12 17:22:24 EDT, you write:

>chambers)

On the White Crackle thing, Did you rub something into the cracks. You said
that you put the White Crackle glaze on a porcelain pot the problem is that
you have two white substances tha are the same like trying to find something
black in the dark. You need to bring the cracks to view some people rub ink
or black iron oxide on it. You probably have the crackles, but can't see
them . You can also use a darker claybody.
Hope this helped

Earl Hope our paths cross at some point.

Bryan Hannis on tue 15 jul 97

Hi

I'm looking for a white large crackle raku glaze, anyone willing to
share?
TIA
Bryan

Sylvia See on wed 16 jul 97

Bryan:
Here is a white crackle recipe I tested yesterday on many pieces. I got
many with a large white crackle and many with a very fine crackle from the
same glaze. What I found interesting was on some of the pieces, I put P600
Plainsman as a white slip over MileHigh Raku clay as I was looking for a
very white finish, and I found that putting white crackle just over the
regular Raku clay, I was getting a yellowed color. However, the P600 is not
a good choice as a slip as it cracked on the surface before and after the
bisque. I glazed them anyway and on the porcelain slipped pieces the
crackle was very large with the porcelain slip cracks in between, quite an
interesting effect but I don't think it will hold up very well and may
flake off. Some places flaked off before the glazing, and some after the
firing, leaving an interesting smoked effect where it flaked from. On the
other pieces, I put the white crackle glaze on the regular Raku clay, and
it turned a rather neat grey colored very fine crackle. However, not the
white I was looking for. I have been told heavier application of glaze
produces a larger crackle, but I did not find that on the pieces I did
yesterday. It appeared to me that the size of the crackle was dependant
upon the clay base I put it on.
Here is the web site I got the following recipe from that I am testing. If
you go there he has alot of Raku recipes and several white crackle. I am
testing and mixing many of them today as a matter of fact.
I used the following:
White crackle
Frit 3110 19.73
Gerstley Borate 64.65
Dolomite 1.79
Epk 7.21
Borax 2.78
Zircopax 3.85
I didn't know what the heck to use for Borax and had some 20 mule team
borax for cleaning purposes and that is what I used for Borax.
Note: when a recipe calls for Borax, to the experts out there, what are you
supposed to use, I thought I had every chemical in the world in my shop,
but Borax always stumps me.
Sylvia See Claresholm, Alberta sylviac@telusplanet.net
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/9867/sylvia.html
The golden years have come at last, I cannot see, I cannot pee,
I cannot chew, I cannot screw. My memory shrinks, my hearing stinks.
No sense of smell, I look like hell. My body drooping, got trouble pooping.
The golden years have come at last, The golden years can kiss my Ass.

Tony Hansen on wed 16 jul 97

> I'm looking for a white large crackle raku glaze, anyone willing to
> share?

Frit 3134 has a high expansion. Try adding 15% kaolin and as much
soda feldspar as it will take.

--
T o n y H a n s e n, I M C thansen@digitalfire.com
=========================================================

Barbara Lewis on wed 16 jul 97

I don't have a glaze for large crackle, but a porcelain claybody seems to
encourage large crackle with microfine crackle as well. If there is a glaze
or technique, other than using porcelain, I would be interested in it as
well. Barbara

At 01:34 PM 7/15/97 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi
>
>I'm looking for a white large crackle raku glaze, anyone willing to
>share?
>TIA
>Bryan
>

Marvin S. Flowerman on thu 17 jul 97

Bryan:

I have had (and still have) very good results for white crackle with the
following recipe:

Colemanite (gerstley borate) 60 grams
Buckspar (K-200) 50 grams
Barium Carbonate 22 grams
Silica 16 grams

This glaze works well no matter how you apply it but sipping or spraying are
preferable.

Good luck and please let me know how you make out with this recipe.

Marvin Flowerman (marvpots@aol.com)

Charles Williams on fri 18 jul 97

Bryan,
The size of the crackle pattern depends on the rate of cooling of the
piece. As a general rule, the slower the cooling, the larger the crackle
pattern. Burping the reduction container several times will usually result in
increasingly smaller (finer) patterns. Any white crackle glaze will do.

Hope this helps.

C Williams AKA Mississippi Mudcat Pottery

LYN PEELLE on sat 30 aug 97



I'm looking for a cone 4-7 white or clear crackle
oxidation glaze. Anyone out there ever heard of
a monster like tih this and could you help me out?
Thanks,
Lyn'

Richard mahaffey on sun 12 dec 99

Hi,

I much prefer to think ahead and put a white (porcelain) slip on my raku
pieces that I want to have aa white background. I put the slip on at the
throwing stage or the trimming stage (a bit riskier the dryer the form
is). I then bisque normally and use Soldner's 80-20 clear. I allow the pot
to cool for a bit before I put it into the reduction can. Try this, I
think you will like the crackle pattern better. Experiment with the slip
thickness and see how it affects the crackle pattern. My experience is
that the crackle pattern is larger and you can achieve three levels of
crackle, Dark black, grey, and light grey. Also experiment with the
cooling time before you put you r piece into the reduction can.

Good luck and remember to vary only one thing per experiment.

Rick Mahaffey
Tacoma Community College
Tacoma, Washington, USA 98466