Samantha Tomich on tue 20 aug 96
What's that commercial wax resist medium made out of anyway? Can we make
it at home? What other types of materials are good for resist work? I
know about adhesive paper and masking tape. What about latex(?)
resists, how are they to use and how are the results? Out of curiosity,
what about rubber cement? safety?? :-0
Also, I just wanted to say that I've learned as much here at Clayart as
I have in college, and I'm looking forward to learning much more!
Getting ready to throw again-the fall semester starts in one week!!!
Sam in Hawaii
LINDA BLOSSOM on tue 20 aug 96
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In Greg Daly's recent book on "Glazes and Glazing" he gives a recipe for wax
resist. If you don't have this let me know and I'll get it out and post it.
Linda
Ithaca, NY
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Nan Dufresne on tue 20 aug 96
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>What's that commercial wax resist medium made out of anyway? Can we make
>it at home? What other types of materials are good for resist work? I
>know about adhesive paper and masking tape. What about latex(?)
>resists, how are they to use and how are the results? Out of curiosity,
>what about rubber cement? safety?? :-0
>
>"HANDMADE TILES" BY Giorgini talks about shellac resist for etching
"The shellac is applied to specific design areas on an unfired tile,one with
or without underglazes or slips on it......Once it has dried, the shellac
acts as a waterproof resist..."The exposed areas of the tile are then etched
away b gently rubbing the entire surface with a dammmpened sponge."
The shellac burns away in the kiln. Don't see why this wouldn't
work without the etching. Just read it this morning, so haven't tried it yet
Nan Dufresne in NE WI
>
>
BWINER@UKCC.uky.edu on tue 20 aug 96
Please post the receipe for wax resist. Thanks.
RB & LA Klopper on tue 20 aug 96
Hi Nan,
I have used the Shellack for Etching.. You need to paint on the area on the
raw pot that you want raised. Then with a damp and not too wet sponge
sponge the area around it and the shellacked area stays raised and you can
wipe as much off as required.
By doing it this way the area etched away is more even.
If you need any more information about how to do it email me direct.
Lorraine (who just became a New Grandmother yesterday)
Russell and Lorraine Klopper Phone 619-3396067
38 Allen Street Fax 619-3519443
East Fremantle
Western Australia E-Mail klopper@iinet.net.au
klopper@totalexports.com.au
(See our Total Flower Export web page at www.iinet.net.au/~total)
Klopper Pottery Phone 619-3363779
3 Banister Street
Fremantle Western Australia
mel jacobson on wed 21 aug 96
i have found that paraffin wax with a small amount of kerosene heated in an
old electric frypan to about 350 degrees is the best wax resist i have
found...and i use a lot.. it is my basic design element with multiple layers
of glaze. hot wax on bisque gives you only one chance...if you blow it,
like over fired bisque, you have drive way fill. (one can re-bisque, but i
don't)
i have tried almost everything under the sun as a resist..and of course my
students were always looking for a new resist... we love crayons, and oil
pastels...and as to the last post they do leave residual color as a shadow
in electric mid range fire. using a wax crayon with a decorating wheel
makes a very fine resist line.
the japanese use a lot of pure rubber latex.. if you use the good stuff it
comes off with a sharpe probe and a gentle pull before you glaze fire... i
have used "pure rubber for mask making "and it works...but it is a bit fussy
for me. (and it smells like hell in an electric glaze firing... i do not
notice it in the gas kiln. i never used it in the class room, as i did not
use hot wax with kids... not only dangerous (spilling) but they ruined every
good brush in the department, including several sabel watercolor
brushes...once a brush hits hot wax it is always a wax brush. (keep your wax
tools in the cooled frying pan and they are ready the next time you use
it..just plug it in and go)/ the frying pan gives you ulitmate control of
heat and you can leave it on for hours..
i cannot glaze pots without the smell of hot wax...it is a stimulant.
a friend is using cut off animal hypodermic neddles to do calligraphy on
pots and is it fun to spray glaze with a big one, patterns like feathers.
she buys them bulk from a farm supply store. very cheap with interchangable
tip sizes.
she uses a jewelers saw to cut the sharp ends off.
mel jacobson/minnesota / just back from the glories of wisconsin farm
country...building a shed for my tractor, it is old and bright orange...keep
the new truck outside of course.
James Dapogny on thu 22 aug 96
Hi,
From everything I have heard, you shouldn't leave your paraffin pan on
"fuming" away. Those fumes coat your lungs permanently, and cause real
damage. I don't know details, but this is what I've always been told. We
don't want to lose our friends in clay!
Gail Dapogny in Ann Arbor, MI
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Marcia Kindlmann on fri 23 aug 96
Subject: wax resist
Hi all,
For wax resist I've been using paraffin melted with vegetable oil,
in a pie tin inside a larger pie tin on a hotplate, on hotplate's
low-medium setting. When I draw the brush out across the rim of
the smaller tin to get excess resist off, any drips land inside
the outer tin rather than on the hotplate coils (less plumes of
smoke). Years ago I had tried the paraffin & kerosene mix
which makes a zingy smell indeed, but it made my eyes hurt --
even when this was vented. (gee, I should draw a picture and
send this to CM, huh.)
So I switched to veg. oil & paraffin -- less fumes. It's just as
expressive & fluid as the kerosene method if you get the blend to
the right temperature -- experiment to find out (it doesn't need to be
smoking). The proportions are one cake of standard canning
paraffin to 1/4 cup veg. oil--corn oil, peanut oil, whatever. This
mix can be used for dipping bottoms too.
Marcia Kindlmann in
Guilford CT
Louis Howard Katz on fri 23 aug 96
I have to agree that hot wax is the best. We do use it down here, but
only outside. I have seen too many wax fires, and know that the fumes
can't be good for you.
Louis
***************************************************
*Louis Katz lkatz@falcon.tamucc.edu *
*Texas A&M University Corpus Christi *
*6300 Ocean Drive, Art Department *
*Corpus Christi, Tx 78412 *
*Phone (512) 994-5987 *
**************************************************
Craig Martell on wed 16 oct 96
I also make porcelain and use wax prior to glazing. I haven't had any
problems with achieving clean lines on feet and lid rims etc. I use a newer
formula of cerumul-a wax that I bought from Trinity in Dallas Tx. and
Aftosa's mixture. Both work very well. I add 100 mesh alumina oxide, not
hydrate to the wax, to keep lids from sticking or feet from fusing to shelves
etc. I think that alumina hydrate, a finer more powdery grind might make wax
a bit "gummy." Also, finding the right viscosity for the wax is important.
Too much water and the resist properties are negated, not enough water and
the wax doesn't flow on clean etc., ad. nauseum. I guess all this stuff is
kind of obvious but I hope it's helpful.
Craig Martell--Oregon
Bob Hanlin on thu 17 oct 96
Has anyone had problems with the Aftosa wax resist stinking? Ours smells
really bad but works great. After it dries on the pot it's OK but while
we're waxing, whew! Can anything be done to counteract the smell?
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I also make porcelain and use wax prior to glazing. I haven't had any
>problems with achieving clean lines on feet and lid rims etc. I use a newer
>formula of cerumul-a wax that I bought from Trinity in Dallas Tx. and
>Aftosa's mixture. Both work very well. I add 100 mesh alumina oxide, not
>hydrate to the wax, to keep lids from sticking or feet from fusing to shelves
>etc. I think that alumina hydrate, a finer more powdery grind might make wax
>a bit "gummy." Also, finding the right viscosity for the wax is important.
> Too much water and the resist properties are negated, not enough water and
>the wax doesn't flow on clean etc., ad. nauseum. I guess all this stuff is
>kind of obvious but I hope it's helpful.
>Craig Martell--Oregon
>
>
Bob Hanlin
3504 N. Tulsa
Oklahoma City, OK 73112
e-mail bhanlin@ionet.net
Tamsin A. Whitehead on thu 17 oct 96
On Thu, 17 Oct 1996, Bob Hanlin wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Has anyone had problems with the Aftosa wax resist stinking? Ours smells
> really bad but works great. After it dries on the pot it's OK but while
> we're waxing, whew! Can anything be done to counteract the smell?
>
Mine not only stinks, but if left for a while grows a coating of some
kind of mold which I have been trying to peel off, although some bits
fall back in. Could this be a storage problem? I keep mine in a plastic
tub with a tight fitting lid.
Tamsin
Nottingham, NH
USA
Bob Hanlin on fri 18 oct 96
Tamsin:
Mine does the same thing, grows a coating of mold. I keep it in the
original gallon plastic jug and transfer it to a glass jar for use. Then
the stuff in the plastic jug gets lumps in it that I have to pour into the
trash if I manage to catch them before they hit the galss jar. I wonder if
every kind of wax does this revolting stuff or is it just Aftosa. I really
like doing business with them, particularly over Axner. Aftosa will ship
the stuff the same day while Axner has gotten so big that it takes him about
a week to get the stuff our of his shop.
Any suggestions, anybody?
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>
>On Thu, 17 Oct 1996, Bob Hanlin wrote:
>
>> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> Has anyone had problems with the Aftosa wax resist stinking? Ours smells
>> really bad but works great. After it dries on the pot it's OK but while
>> we're waxing, whew! Can anything be done to counteract the smell?
>>
>Mine not only stinks, but if left for a while grows a coating of some
>kind of mold which I have been trying to peel off, although some bits
>fall back in. Could this be a storage problem? I keep mine in a plastic
>tub with a tight fitting lid.
>
>Tamsin
>Nottingham, NH
>USA
>
>
Bob Hanlin
3504 N. Tulsa
Oklahoma City, OK 73112
e-mail bhanlin@ionet.net
Karen Gringhuis on sat 19 oct 96
I beg to differ re: Axner shipping time. For me they have always shipped
in an expeditious manner, including recently.
Bob Hanlin on sun 20 oct 96
Sorry Karen, it's been about two years since I ordered from them. They had
about a week in house then and Aftosa carried the things I needed and
shipped with alicrity. My info is acient history, I'm sorry.
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I beg to differ re: Axner shipping time. For me they have always shipped
>in an expeditious manner, including recently.
>
>
Bob Hanlin
3504 N. Tulsa
Oklahoma City, OK 73112
e-mail bhanlin@ionet.net
Bob Hanlin on sun 20 oct 96
Tamsin:
Well, while I was loading the kiln Friday I got a call from Brian Wilson of
Aftosa. He wanted to know what the problem was with the wax resist. You
may have received a call by now. It seems that when you take out some from
the original jar you cannot re-cover or use from that batch again. Some
critters (bacteria) set up housekeeping there and they don't smell like we'd
like. The fix is to remove just as much as you will use in that session and
then dump the rest. Also, keep the original container tightly closed to
keep interlopers out.
Bob Hanlin
Okla. CIty, oK
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>
>On Thu, 17 Oct 1996, Bob Hanlin wrote:
>
>> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> Has anyone had problems with the Aftosa wax resist stinking? Ours smells
>> really bad but works great. After it dries on the pot it's OK but while
>> we're waxing, whew! Can anything be done to counteract the smell?
>>
>Mine not only stinks, but if left for a while grows a coating of some
>kind of mold which I have been trying to peel off, although some bits
>fall back in. Could this be a storage problem? I keep mine in a plastic
>tub with a tight fitting lid.
>
>Tamsin
>Nottingham, NH
>USA
>
>
Bob Hanlin
3504 N. Tulsa
Oklahoma City, OK 73112
e-mail bhanlin@ionet.net
Lisa on mon 21 oct 96
Karen Gringhuis wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I beg to differ re: Axner shipping time. For me they have always shipped
> in an expeditious manner, including recently.
I concur. Axner has never done me wrong and they have great service too.
If you are having problems, send email to Kelly. Their address is
AXNER@ATTMAIL.COM
Dave and Pat Eitel on tue 22 oct 96
I can no longer resist replying to this thread. I use a wax resist called
Ceramul A (or something resembling that) which I think is made by Mobil. I
get it from Trinity Ceramic Supply in Dallas (214) 631-0540. It works very
well--I think it's the best one--and doesn't smell, although it does get a
skin on the top. The skin, though mixes back into a liquid. Compared to
the last time I shopped around for wax resist, it was fairly inexpensive,
too.
Later...Dave
Dave Eitel
Cedar Creek Pottery
Cedarburg, WI
daveitel@execpc.com
http://www.digivis.com/CedarCreek/home.html
Craig Martell on mon 10 feb 97
Hi Clayart:
The thing that bugs me about water based waxes is you have to wait so long
for them to dry, especially when doing resist work for multiple glazes.
Latex works a lot better but it's so thick and gummy that you can't get
precise graceful lines and shapes.
I still use water base wax for feet and lid seats, but for glaze work I use
a hot wax mix of 50% paraffin and 50% lamp oil. I use an electric hot plate
with just enough heat to keep the wax melted and at a good viscosity for
brush work. The lamp oil greatly aids the flow properties of the mixture. I
keep the hot plate and wax in my spray booth with the fan running to exhaust
the fumes. The nice thing about this hot wax mix is not having to wait for
it to set up. You brush it on and as soon as it's hard (about 15-20 seconds
max) you can get on with the glazing. You can execute nice crisp flowing
lines and shapes too. But you must keep in mind that this stuff is flamable
and you need to watch the amount of heat and don't let the wax level get to
low in your container. If the wax starts to smoke, it's too hot. Keep calm
and remove it from the heat. It doesn't hurt to have a small fire
extinguisher somewhere in your studio for all kinds of emergencies. When
I'm finished with a session, I remove the brushes from the hot wax and
immediately wash them in hot water with some mild detergent.
For what it's worth, Craig Martell-Oregon
Kirk Morrison on tue 11 feb 97
On 10 Feb 97 at 9:38, Craig Martell wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi Clayart:
>
> The thing that bugs me about water based waxes is you have to wait so long
> for them to dry, especially when doing resist work for multiple glazes.
> Latex works a lot better but it's so thick and gummy that you can't get
> precise graceful lines and shapes.
>
> I still use water base wax for feet and lid seats, but for glaze work I use
> a hot wax mix of 50% paraffin and 50% lamp oil. I use an electric hot plate
> with just enough heat to keep the wax melted and at a good viscosity for
> brush work. The lamp oil greatly aids the flow properties of the mixture. I
> keep the hot plate and wax in my spray booth with the fan running to exhaust
> the fumes.
I do the samething except I use Mineral Oil it seems to work as well
for me and it is somewhat less flameable, y'all might want to give it a
try. I strong dislike being a torch myself which is why I went to
mineral oil, instead of coal oil
Kirk
Debby Grant on wed 9 apr 97
Thank you Jean Campbell for your tip on Acrylic Gloss Medium.
I tried it and found it dried faster and resisted better than any
other wax resist I've used.
Much appreciated, Debby Grant in NH
Stern HQ on thu 10 apr 97
Do you let the acrylic gloss medium burn off in the kiln or do you have to
peel it off before you fire the piece? TIA Jeni
On Wed, 9 Apr 1997, Debby Grant wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Thank you Jean Campbell for your tip on Acrylic Gloss Medium.
> I tried it and found it dried faster and resisted better than any
> other wax resist I've used.
>
> Much appreciated, Debby Grant in NH
>
Israel Amirav on fri 22 aug 97
Allison,
I have been using Axner's wax resist for a long time now,and never had any
problems.
Good-luck
Naama in Israel
centa uhalde on sat 27 jun 98
Hi all,
Can anyone recommend a wax resist that when you try to sponge off the
residue glaze left on the wax, the wax doesn't come off as well, in other
words, one that isn't water soluable, and that can be used for decorative
work?
Thanks,
Centa
gary holt on sun 28 jun 98
Hi, Centa. You might try shellac. It's used on greenware to achieve a
raised design by sponging away the bare (unresisted) clay areas. It's
extremely hard once it dries, and then it just burns off in the bisque. I
don't know how exactly you want to use a resist, but it may be worth a try.
It flows more quickly than wax resist, and is a bit more difficult to
control until you get used to it. Hope this helps........
Gary
Holt
Berkeley, CA
Caroline and Hedley Saunders on mon 29 jun 98
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi, Centa. You might try shellac. It's used on greenware to achieve a
>raised design by sponging away the bare (unresisted) clay areas. It's
>extremely hard once it dries, and then it just burns off in the bisque. I
>don't know how exactly you want to use a resist, but it may be worth a try.
> It flows more quickly than wax resist, and is a bit more difficult to
>control until you get used to it. Hope this helps........
> Gary
>Holt
Saw a demo by Peter Lane last weekend he uses acrylic paint medium (watered
down) so get the same effect. Said it was not as tough as shellac but much
easier to wash out of the brushes!
He was painting it on a porcelain body that was completely dry, he then
sponged the surface leaving the resisted areas raised. He dried the pot
completely then painted on more resist and sponged off again (once the
medium was dry). He was able to get a third repetition but after that found
the first lot of medium got washed off. This gave different levels of
translucency depending on the thicknesses of the porcelain which was left
unglazed.....truly beautiful!
Caroline
Xdelphin@eclipse.co.uk
Remove the X from the address (there to keep spam spiders at bay)
centa uhalde on thu 8 oct 98
I seem to have a problem with the wax resist I am using. After brushing or
dipping glaze over a completely dried resist, then letting the glaze dry,
there is of course, dried glaze residue on the resist. When I try to dab or
wipe it off with a little water, the resist also comes off. Is this a
function of the brand of wax or what? I would think it shouldn't be so
flimsy.
Thanks,
Centa
Wilsons on fri 9 oct 98
I used a water based was resist and found the same problem. A potter
friend turned me on to a ammonia latex. I buy it through 1800 4- laguna in
California in pint jars. It works really well on glazed surface and then
put another glaze over that glaze. Then peal off the latex before firing
very clean images. It also peels off the bisqued ware easily to expose the
clay body or to glaze over again. Either way peel the latex off before the
glaze drys on the latex surface to avoid the making of dust. I have really
enjoyed this except I find I am buying cheaper brushes because it is pretty
hard on brushes, even though I have a shotglass full of ammonia on the
table to clean the brush. Ammonia also thins out the latex. Any ?s
Bill
bilson@rmii.com
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I seem to have a problem with the wax resist I am using. After brushing or
>dipping glaze over a completely dried resist, then letting the glaze dry,
>there is of course, dried glaze residue on the resist. When I try to dab or
>wipe it off with a little water, the resist also comes off. Is this a
>function of the brand of wax or what? I would think it shouldn't be so
>flimsy.
>
>Thanks,
>Centa
A. Stevenson on sun 11 oct 98
Hi,
We discovered that when using latex first dip your paintbrush in
dishwashing liquid (sunlight. Dont wash it off but use like that to
apply your latex. When you are finished you will then find that the
latex washes off very easily. We of course only found this out after
gumming up countless paintbrushes with never to be removed gungy latex.
Stef Stevenson from Sweltering Hot Worcester South Africa.
--
REPLY feature on you email software will not work
until you remove _NOSPAM_ from email address.
Address is munged to avoid drowning in SPAM
Berry Silverman on sun 11 oct 98
One caution about using latex, if you let the glaze over the latex get
too dry, then when you peel off the latex the glaze or underglaze
around it will chip off, creating a broken line. It's best to peel it
off immediately after applying glaze, while the glaze is still soft
and damp, to avoid this problem.
As for the original problem with the wax resist, you might try other
brands. We have used Axner's wax without any problems. But, again,
the best time to take off excess glaze on the wax is while the glaze
is still wet. If you are working on small areas of design, tear off a
tiny piece of sponge and use it to mop up excess over the wax. If you
wait until it is dry, it bonds too much to the wax.
Wilsons wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
> I used a water based was resist and found the same problem. A potter
> friend turned me on to a ammonia latex. I buy it through 1800 4-
laguna in
> California in pint jars. It works really well on glazed surface and
then
> put another glaze over that glaze. Then peal off the latex before
firing
> very clean images.t
>
>
>
> >----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
> >I seem to have a problem with the wax resist I am using. After
brushing or
> >dipping glaze over a completely dried resist, then letting the
glaze dry,
> >there is of course, dried glaze residue on the resist. When I try
to dab or
> >wipe it off with a little water, the resist also comes off. Is this a
> >function of the brand of wax or what? I would think it shouldn't be
so
> >flimsy.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Centa
>
==
Berry Silverman,
Berryware, Tucson, Arizona
berrysilverman@yahoo.com
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Norm Straker on thu 15 apr 99
Hey Folks,
I tried using melted wax over glaze but couldn't get it to work well. So
I bought some wax resist instead.
I know there is a formula to mix the stuff that includes some kind of
Kerasine. Anyone know of it?? Or can you tell me of something better to
use??
Thanks in advance! Norm! 8^o
___________________________________________________________________
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Judith Enright on fri 16 apr 99
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hey Folks,
>
>I tried using melted wax over glaze but couldn't get it to work well. So
>I bought some wax resist instead.
>
>I know there is a formula to mix the stuff that includes some kind of
>Kerasine. Anyone know of it?? Or can you tell me of something better to
>use??
>
>Thanks in advance! Norm! 8^o
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
You could try using latex or newspaper as a resist over glaze -- peel it
off before firing. Either work great depending on the level of detail
you're going for.
Also, for preparing unglazed bottoms and some types of decorative resist,
I've been using acrylic gloss medium for a couple of years now, enhanced
with a bit of green food coloring for detection. The stuff can be
purchased in any art store. I'll sometimes dilute it with a bit of water.
Brushes clean up well in warm water and soap.
Be well...
Judith Enright at Black Leopard Clayware
BLEOPARD@ricochet.net
1438 Carnot Drive
San Jose, CA 95126
(408) 947-1723
Stephen Grimmer on fri 16 apr 99
Norm,
I used to be a big fan of hot wax until I tried the Mobilcer-A liquid wax.
Pretty nice stuff, and it dries fast. You may want to thin it with a wee bit
of water.
steve grimmer
marion illinois
----------
>From: Norm Straker
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: Wax Resist
>Date: Thu, Apr 15, 1999, 6:44 AM
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hey Folks,
>
>I tried using melted wax over glaze but couldn't get it to work well. So
>I bought some wax resist instead.
>
>I know there is a formula to mix the stuff that includes some kind of
>Kerasine. Anyone know of it?? Or can you tell me of something better to
>use??
>
>Thanks in advance! Norm! 8^o
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
Mimi Stadler on fri 16 apr 99
Hi, Norm!
In Creative Pottery (Michelle Coakes' 1998 book) Linda Arbuckle
explains that in order for wax resist to stick over glaze, the dry surface
must be free of powder. She uses commercial wax resist over a glazed surface
that's been brushed with a soft, flat brush first. She says "peeling could
..be a sign that the wax resist is too thick.Thin it with water. You can
often remedy the peeling by gently heating the wax resist with a hair dryer
and pushing it back down onto the surface."
I've used both Axner's wax resist and Ceramic Supply of NJ's, both
good. Good luck.
Mimi Stadler in NJ
Bob Wicks on fri 16 apr 99
Norm:
I use sub turps, one part paraffin to 8 parts sub turps. Mix in a double
boiler so there will be no danger of fire. Works fine is much cheaper.
bob
Bill Williams on fri 16 apr 99
Been told that you can use "mop and glow" type products. You know, the "no
wax" floor wax. Connie
-----Original Message-----
From: Norm Straker
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Thursday, April 15, 1999 6:45 AM
Subject: Wax Resist
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hey Folks,
>
>I tried using melted wax over glaze but couldn't get it to work well. So
>I bought some wax resist instead.
>
>I know there is a formula to mix the stuff that includes some kind of
>Kerasine. Anyone know of it?? Or can you tell me of something better to
>use??
>
>Thanks in advance! Norm! 8^o
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
muddpie on fri 16 apr 99
Steve -
I have never heard of Mobilcer... Is a ceramic product?? A car wax?? A floor
wax?? Where would one be able to purchase this product?? Thanks for your help.
JuliE
Grand Rapids
Michigan
Stephen Grimmer wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Norm,
> I used to be a big fan of hot wax until I tried the Mobilcer-A liquid wax.
> Pretty nice stuff, and it dries fast. You may want to thin it with a wee bit
> of water.
>
> steve grimmer
> marion illinois
> ----------
Arturo M Devitalis on sat 17 apr 99
After attending a Glick workshop I started using plain canning pariffin
in a 240-260 degree elec pan with no additives and am getting better
each time I use it. It is a challenge to use!
___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
Stephen Mills on sun 18 apr 99
I've come in late on this one.
A mixture of approximately 50-50 Paraffin Wax and light machine oil
(3in1) gives a very nice decorating wax that doesn't fry brushes and
needs only a bath of hot water to keep it fluid. Downside: it remains
softish so glazing needs to be done soon after decoration or the resist
gathers dust and doesn't resist so well.
Steve
Bath
UK
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>Hey Folks,
>>
>>I tried using melted wax over glaze but couldn't get it to work well. So
>>I bought some wax resist instead.
>>
>>I know there is a formula to mix the stuff that includes some kind of
>>Kerasine. Anyone know of it?? Or can you tell me of something better to
>>use??
>>
>>Thanks in advance! Norm! 8^o
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
home e-mail: stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk
work e-mail: stevemills@bathpotters.demon.co.uk
own website: http://www.mudslinger.demon.co.uk
BPS website: http://www.bathpotters.demon.co.uk
Stephen Grimmer on sun 18 apr 99
Julie,
"It's a dessert topping AND a floor wax!"
Mobilcer A is a liquid wax emulsion produced by (I suppose) Mobil Oil.
It is white in the jug and dries clear. It thins with water and thus comes
out of your brushes easily. I like using those foam/sponge brushes that
painters sometimes use for window sashes to apply it as they make a really
sharp line and hold a charge for quite a while. You can also notch and cut
them for interesting effects. Don't get the cheap ones with the coarse foam,
but rather try to find the nicer brushes with the very fine bubble
structure.
I but Mobilcer A from Bracker Ceramics in Lawrence, KS for $15 per
gallon. Their phone # is 1-888-822-1982. The folks at Bracker are
professional and always helpful.
steve grimmer
marion illionis
----------
>From: muddpie
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: Re: Wax Resist
>Date: Fri, Apr 16, 1999, 11:59 AM
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Steve -
>
>I have never heard of Mobilcer... Is a ceramic product?? A car wax?? A floor
>wax?? Where would one be able to purchase this product?? Thanks for your help
>
>JuliE
>Grand Rapids
>Michigan
>
>Stephen Grimmer wrote:
>
>> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> Norm,
>> I used to be a big fan of hot wax until I tried the Mobilcer-A liquid wax.
>> Pretty nice stuff, and it dries fast. You may want to thin it with a wee bit
>> of water.
>>
>> steve grimmer
>> marion illinois
>> ----------
>
Elias Portor on sun 18 apr 99
If your looking for a wax resist the best I have found is from Aftosa, it
works great and doesn't stick too much after firing like some of the others
do. eportor
Judith Enright wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >Hey Folks,
> >
> >I tried using melted wax over glaze but couldn't get it to work well. So
> >I bought some wax resist instead.
> >
> >I know there is a formula to mix the stuff that includes some kind of
> >Kerasine. Anyone know of it?? Or can you tell me of something better to
> >use??
> >
> >Thanks in advance! Norm! 8^o
> >___________________________________________________________________
> >You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> >Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> >or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
> You could try using latex or newspaper as a resist over glaze -- peel it
> off before firing. Either work great depending on the level of detail
> you're going for.
>
> Also, for preparing unglazed bottoms and some types of decorative resist,
> I've been using acrylic gloss medium for a couple of years now, enhanced
> with a bit of green food coloring for detection. The stuff can be
> purchased in any art store. I'll sometimes dilute it with a bit of water.
> Brushes clean up well in warm water and soap.
>
> Be well...
>
> Judith Enright at Black Leopard Clayware
> BLEOPARD@ricochet.net
> 1438 Carnot Drive
> San Jose, CA 95126
> (408) 947-1723
Carol Seidman on fri 23 apr 99
With all the recent posts regarding the health hazards of burning wax
and proper kiln ventalation, are you cooking up this kerosene, parafin,
motor oil cocktail inside your studio? Carol Seidman
Todd Nelson wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Several days ago Norm! 8^o asked for a wax resist recipe that had kerosene as
> part of the formula. Several years ago I picked this recipe up at a workshop.
> Please be advised to use it with caution as it is VERY flamable. Works great,
> BIG hazard.
>
> BABU'S "Napalm Wax"
> 1 lb Parafin
> 1/4 Cup kerosene
> 1/4 Cup motor oil
>
> USE WITH PLENTY OF VENTILATION(just ask Monona about wax emissions), USE AT YO
> OWN RISK, VERY FLAMABLE, DO NOT LEAVE UNATTENDED. I have found that if you
> wax pan is begining to "smoke" it is just about to ignite. Turn it down. To
> get around the problem, I use a lower temperature wax, 125 degree, and no
> additives. This is the same wax many candle carvers use for cut and curl
> candles. Be careful if you use this stuff!!!!
> Todd
Todd Nelson on fri 23 apr 99
Several days ago Norm=21 8=5Eo asked for a wax resist recipe that had =
kerosene as
part of the formula. Several years ago I picked this recipe up at a =
workshop.
Please be advised to use it with caution as it is VERY flamable. Works =
great,
BIG hazard.
BABU'S =22Napalm Wax=22
1 lb Parafin
1/4 Cup kerosene
1/4 Cup motor oil
USE WITH PLENTY OF VENTILATION(just ask Monona about wax emissions), USE AT =
YOUR
OWN RISK, VERY FLAMABLE, DO NOT LEAVE UNATTENDED. I have found that if =
your
wax pan is begining to =22smoke=22 it is just about to ignite. Turn it =
down. To
get around the problem, I use a lower temperature wax, 125 degree, and no
additives. This is the same wax many candle carvers use for cut and curl
candles. Be careful if you use this stuff=21=21=21=21
Todd
Todd Nelson on mon 26 apr 99
Carol, Please finish reading my post before reply. Norm asked for a recipe=
and
I gave him what I learned at a workshop. No, I don't cook it up in my =
studio.
I use 125 degree wax with no additions. It goes on smooth and wipes off =
very
easily. The napalm is too close to an accident for me to use. Between the
smell and the volitility I won't ever try it again. Sure wish someone would
make a resist that works as good. L=26R Specialties in Nixa, Mo. sells one =
that
works good on bisque but not over glaze. Axner's green stuff works best =
over
glaze if you can wait a day for it to dry. Pushing mud, Todd
Carol Seidman on mon 26 apr 99
Todd, My comment was to alert anyone not knowing the danger "Dont Try
This At Home". I recently learned that a glaze chemical I was using is
very toxic (Vanadium Pentoxide). No warnings in my suppliers catalogue,
formulas available in books with no warning, I just didn't know until
someone on clayart mentioned it. Wrote to Monona and she clued me in,
bad stuff . So my point is, there are so many folks learning to make
pottery, grabbing information here and there, and thinking that if you
dont use lead in your glaze, you're okay. Carol
> Todd Nelson wrote:
>
> Carol, Please finish reading my post before reply. Norm asked for a
> recipe and I gave him what I learned at a workshop. No, I don't
> cook it up in my studio. I use 125 degree wax with no additions. It
> goes on smooth and wipes off very easily. The napalm is too close to
> an accident for me to use. Between the smell and the volitility I
> won't ever try it again. Sure wish someone would make a resist that
> works as good. L&R Specialties in Nixa, Mo. sells one that works good
> on bisque but not over glaze. Axner's green stuff works best over
> glaze if you can wait a day for it to dry. Pushing mud, Todd
Jim Bob Salazar on tue 25 sep 01
as for wax resist,
i find that the numbers of students we have making pots that the cost of wax resist
for decoration and dry footing is just too expensive. what i have come up with over
the years is a mixture of gulf wax and a jigger of motor oil. the gulf wax or
canning wax (which i put on the student supply list) can be obtained at any grocery
store and the jigger of oil allowes you to brush the wax a little farther plus, the
oil tints the wax just a little and you can see where you are in your waxing. we
have an electric skillet that i cut down so the side walls are about 3/4" tall.
with the short side wall you can set a plate in the skillet and the plate rim will
not touch. fast and clean. fire???? not yet. our temp dile on the skillet is
pretty big. i drilled a hole through the whole thing and put a zip tie on it. so
the temp of the wax is a constant and no fire. when bisking, i leave the lid up till
the smoke clears and then drop the lid and go to medium. burn off the wax and and
moisture, works like a charm.
jim bob salazar
John & Susan Balentine on tue 25 sep 01
gee Jim Bob I sure hope you have that melted wax ventilated well. The fumes from melted
wax is very bad for your lungs. Concerned -Susan
Jim Bob Salazar wrote:
> as for wax resist,
>
> i find that the numbers of students we have making pots that the cost of wax resist
> for decoration and dry footing is just too expensive. what i have come up with over
> the years is a mixture of gulf wax and a jigger of motor oil. the gulf wax or
> canning wax (which i put on the student supply list) can be obtained at any grocery
> store and the jigger of oil allowes you to brush the wax a little farther plus, the
> oil tints the wax just a little and you can see where you are in your waxing. we
> have an electric skillet that i cut down so the side walls are about 3/4" tall.
> with the short side wall you can set a plate in the skillet and the plate rim will
> not touch. fast and clean. fire???? not yet. our temp dile on the skillet is
> pretty big. i drilled a hole through the whole thing and put a zip tie on it. so
> the temp of the wax is a constant and no fire. when bisking, i leave the lid up till
> the smoke clears and then drop the lid and go to medium. burn off the wax and and
> moisture, works like a charm.
>
> jim bob salazar
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Jim Bob Salazar on tue 25 sep 01
yeah, our electric kilns are under a covered, enclosed patio type setting. totally vented.
generally the bisque is done overnight so no one is even around.
thanks,
jim bob
John & Susan Balentine wrote:
> gee Jim Bob I sure hope you have that melted wax ventilated well. The fumes from melted
> wax is very bad for your lungs. Concerned -Susan
>
> Jim Bob Salazar wrote:
>
> > as for wax resist,
> >
> > i find that the numbers of students we have making pots that the cost of wax resist
> > for decoration and dry footing is just too expensive. what i have come up with over
> > the years is a mixture of gulf wax and a jigger of motor oil. the gulf wax or
> > canning wax (which i put on the student supply list) can be obtained at any grocery
> > store and the jigger of oil allowes you to brush the wax a little farther plus, the
> > oil tints the wax just a little and you can see where you are in your waxing. we
> > have an electric skillet that i cut down so the side walls are about 3/4" tall.
> > with the short side wall you can set a plate in the skillet and the plate rim will
> > not touch. fast and clean. fire???? not yet. our temp dile on the skillet is
> > pretty big. i drilled a hole through the whole thing and put a zip tie on it. so
> > the temp of the wax is a constant and no fire. when bisking, i leave the lid up till
> > the smoke clears and then drop the lid and go to medium. burn off the wax and and
> > moisture, works like a charm.
> >
> > jim bob salazar
> >
> > ______________________________________________________________________________
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Randy Peckham on tue 13 nov 01
For a while I was using liquid wax resist. I didn't find it as nice as I
remember melted wax when I was a kid. I bought an aluminum frying pan at a
yard sale, and found a block of Yankee Candle wax, that was in the basement
doomed for the dump. I melted it, and added a lillte parafin oil. My
thoughts were to lower the melting temp.
It works great. However someone I know was told by his instructor that
melted wax was the largest culprit in studio fires. His instructor said
that in order for the wax to work properly it had to be so hot that it
smoked, and then it was a risk of exploding, or igniting. She also said it
was very smoky.
I set the frying pan to 250. It doesn't smoke. It actually smells very
nice. It gives a relatively nice coating, seems to bead the glaze off, and
is great to use.
Does anyone know offhand the ignition temperature of wax? Has anyone heard
of any problems associated with melted wax?
Cindy Strnad on tue 13 nov 01
Dear Randy,
I don't know the ignition temperature of wax, but
I have my electric frying pan set to 250 F and I'm
using plain paraffin. You should be able to get a
good melt at a lower temp with the added oil. I
didn't like mine with oil, but maybe I added too
much. You can buy low-temp waxes, too. David
Hendley bought a bunch of low-temp stuff by mail
and I do have the address here--somewhere. He was
real pleased with it and I'll probably try that
one of these days. It's my experience that 250 F
works best for me, using the wax I'm able to buy
locally. I find there's a right temperature for
wax. Too cool, and it doesn't stick to the pot.
Too hot, and it soaks in and doesn't resist as
well. Plus it gives me a headache. Just do what
works best for you, and don't leave the wax
unattended.
Best wishes,
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
cindy@earthen-vessels-pottery.com
http://www.earthen-vessels-pottery.com
Snail Scott on tue 13 nov 01
At 09:15 AM 11/13/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Does anyone know offhand the ignition temperature of wax? Has anyone heard
>of any problems associated with melted wax?
I don't use wax for clay, I use it for casting bronze.
I melt in in electric skillets, deep fryers, roasters,
and crock pots. When I have a full pot of wax to melt,
I run the temp up to 350 or so until the whole batch is
melted, then turn it down to a good working temperature,
about 200 degrees for what I do. I also manipulate solid
wax with a soldering iron. That gets hot enough on full
power to smoke viciously; I'm guessing 500 degrees easily,
since it melts solder, and the 40 watt irons get a lot
hotter than the little 25 watt one I usually use; I use
the 40 watt one for joining and major hot-wax work. I've
never yet managed to set wax on fire this way.
We burn out the wax at my current foundry by putting it
in a simple gas kiln, right in front of the (huge, forced-
air) burner. A little of the wax burns, but most just drips
away. My old foundry did 'burnout' in an autoclave; went
a lot faster than the jury-rig kiln here, and probably
hotter, but no combustion.
My conclusion: In spite of all the warnings, it seems to
be really tough to set wax on fire, and it seems to require
an open flame. Candles won't burn except on the wick. Who
ever heard of a whole candle in flames? A bit of burning
paper will act as a wick when placed in a pot of melted
wax, but the rest of the wax won't burn.
Deep-fryers are a notorious fire hazard, and they typically
run at 500 degrees and up, but they still don't spontaneously
combust, even though oil is (in)flammable.
I suspect that there must be a temperature at which wax
will spontaneously combust, but I've never found it by
accident. The only hazard from melted wax that I've
experienced personally is a few painful burns. And some
waxes put off nasty fumes, so I like to have ventilation
when using those.
Contrary to your teacher's opinion, I see no reason to get
wax hot enough to smoke; most waxes liquify to a very runny
consistency at temperatures no hotter than boiling water.
-Snail
Imzadi D. on tue 13 nov 01
In a message dated 11/13/01 11:03:02 AM Pacific Standard Time,
snail@MINDSPRING.COM writes:
<< My conclusion: In spite of all the warnings, it seems to
be really tough to set wax on fire, and it seems to require
an open flame. Candles won't burn except on the wick. Who
ever heard of a whole candle in flames? A bit of burning
paper will act as a wick when placed in a pot of melted
wax, but the rest of the wax won't burn. >>
As a candlemaker, this is kind of right. The wax would need a hot enough open
flame to ignite it. It technically is flamable.
But candle wicks are designed to NOT set a whole candle on fire even when the
wick falls over. Wicks come in different sizes, a large wick burns hotter but
still not hot enough to ignite the wax, just melt it. A small wick is for
candles a diameter of about 1-2". Medium wick for 2 1/2-3", etc. This is why
really cheap candles after being lit for a while start overflowing and wax
spills all over the place. They use the wrong size wick because it's the only
size the company will buy. Better made candles, you will notice leave a thin
wall around the candles as they burn, so the wax pretty much stays in the
candle -- unless there is a breeze and the wick burns a little sideways,
melting the side wall.
Actually, the wax is flammable because the wick needs the wax to stay lit.
The wax does burn as well as the wick. A better made candle has the wick
pre-saturated and coated with candle wax before it is inserted into the
candle. It needs the WAX to start and keep the flame going. That is why a new
candle is so darn hard to light, not enough wax at the tip. It is fuel for
the flame. If you held a lighter to an uncoated wick (or string) it doesn't
stay lit once the lighter is taken away.
Paper, as used in a fireplace, is only kindling material, used to start a
fire, it has too low and short duration of a flame on it's own to set a big
log of wood on fire by itself. Does the same in a candle.
I don't know what the flash point for wax is either. I'm sure some candle
expert does. For our purposes, I suppose it is technically like the reason
why children's pajamas and Halloween costumes are by law made flame
retardant, even though daytime clothing (and adult clothing) aren't.
(Although, I'll bet most burning of clothes happens during daytime
situations.) It is a combination of how long and how hot the item is kept in
a hot enough flame and starts to smolder before flashing up. Unattended,
overheated wax finally reaches a flash point.
But more than likely in a studio situation, something close to the constantly
smoldering wax (like a clay magazine) that is flammable gets hot enough off
the smoldering wax, or falls in becoming a super hot wick, or as you said,
the notoriously hazardous deep-fryer ignites because the thermostat chooses
that moment to break, (like Murphy's law, these things ONLY happens when
nobody is watching), ignites the wood table it is on, causes a chain
reaction, burning the place down.
Imzadi
-- ending candle lesson -- definitely more than anyone here wanted to know.
:-D
Bacia Edelman on tue 13 nov 01
>>Does anyone know offhand the ignition temperature of wax? Has anyone heard
of any problems associated with melted wax?<<
Yes, Val Cushing got badly burned many yrs. ago. I don't remember
well, but think there was damage to his barn studio.
His wife, Elsie, was a nurse who treated him instantly. My
memory brings forth some vitamin E oil after a while.
Just don't get involved with another chore while you are waxing
pots, Randy.
Bacia
Imzadi D. on tue 13 nov 01
Got this info from a candle expert:
=20
depending on the additives that are used. Additives are used to lower the=20
MELT POINT to get a good candle, but will also either lower or raise the=20
flash point depending on which additive is used. The canning paraffin you ge=
t=20
in grocery store will run about 325=B0F.
=20
Paraffin over all has a lower flash point than gel. Those Gel Candles having=
=20
about 450=B0F.>=20
Note: Flash point is different from melt point. Additives are added to=20
paraffin so that so that you get that liquidy pool of wax which feeds the=20
wick, thus the flame. Most candle wax is made to have a melting point betwee=
n=20
128-170=B0F degrees. That's why you don't get a bad burn from candle wax=20
dripping on you, just an annoying one.
<< Yes, Val Cushing got badly burned many yrs. ago. I don't remember
well, but think there was damage to his barn studio.
His wife, Elsie, was a nurse who treated him instantly. >>
Don't let the deception of melted paraffin wax fool you. Straight paraffin=20
(without the additives) has a higher melt point, and since people here are=20
reporting to setting their electric fryers to 250=B0F, this is in essence=20
scalding yourself with boiling water when you spill the paraffin on you.=20
(Water boiling at 212=B0F.)=20
An example of a candle maker who has seen wax on fire while testing his own=20
candles:
<flame...beautiful...great throw. So I keep checking it. Going great over=20
the hours. Wick doesn't need trimmed. By this time it is evening and I'm=20
not thinking I need to hover over this candle anymore. I'll let it keep=20
burning to see what the final burn hours are for the votive.
I'm watching TV and one of my cats (out of 10) keeps coming in the LR starin=
g=20
at me. So I walk over to pet him. He wraps himself around my legs and walk=
s=20
down the hall. Then comes back...wraps around and walks back down the hall.=
=20
So I follow him.
I see flashes of light that are brighter than they should be coming from the=
=20
bathroom. Look inside and the votive was on fire. Flaming fire! It was=20
contained inside the container...***I ALWAYS (thank God) test burn my votive=
s=20
in a snug fitting holder. Put that holder on a ceramic dish and put a=20
hurricane glass over it. Roomy enough for air flow. And test burn in the=20
bathroom or kitchen on ceramic countertops. All for safety. Otherwise my=20
bathroom would have been in flames and my Grandson was sleeping in the=20
bedroom that backs that bathroom...If I had not burned that votive all the=20
way down I would not have known it could flash fire with my formula.=20
My hypothesis is that my formula is low temp...the wick burned hotter so=20
when it got down to the last 1/4 inch wax IT OVERHEATED AND CAUGHT FIRE. I=20
know it wasn't a flash from unmixed scent because of the way I cook my=20
formula. =20
I always test like I think someone who doesn't know anything about candles=20
will burn their candle. They aren't going to trim it regularly or hover ove=
r=20
it. They are going to light it and walk away.
I want to stress there wasn't anything wrong with the wick.
It was the combination of wick and my formula was a bad fit.>>
This kind of fits with my earlier example of the combination of wax left=20
unattended in a deep fryer, the (normally fine) thermostat overheating,=20
cooking the wax and getting way too hot, as it cooks down to the end and=20
maybe causing it to flash, or the more intense heat igniting something else=20
close by.
Imzadi
=20
=20
vince pitelka on tue 13 nov 01
I set the frying pan to 250. It doesn't smoke. It actually smells very
> nice. It gives a relatively nice coating, seems to bead the glaze off,
and
> is great to use.
> Does anyone know offhand the ignition temperature of wax? Has anyone
heard
> of any problems associated with melted wax?
Randy -
Your friend is right. Electric frying pans used for hot wax are one of the
most common causes of studio fires. But that is because of crappy frying
pans or careless/improprer use. A setting of 250F is fine, and way below
the ignition point of hot wax. I recommend you use mineral oil or vegetable
oil as an additive, because they will not produce any harmful fumes.
But any electric frying pan controls the temperature by turning the heating
element on and off, just like an electric kiln. There is always the
possibility that the heat controller on the frying pan could fail in the on
position, and if that were to happen while you are out of the studio, you
would have a fire. I had that happen with an electric drip cofeemaker set
on a timer. It was early morning and we were just getting up when we
smelled the smoke, as the coffeemaker was going into meltdown. Nothing like
starting the morning with the smell of burning plastic. So, never leave the
electric frying pan going when you are out of the studio.
I agree about hot wax. In production in Northern California in the 70s and
80s I used hot wax exclusively because it hardens instantly after
application, ready for glazing, and because it resists glaze better than wax
emulsion.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
John & Susan Balentine on wed 14 nov 01
Hi all you hot wax users. Geez I sure hope you guys are using a ventilation fan
like I do when I wax . I just put my electric fry pan in my spray booth. The fumes
off of hot wax are very bad for the lungs -don't you know? Concerned -Susan
Cindy Strnad wrote:
> Dear Randy,
>
> I don't know the ignition temperature of wax, but
> I have my electric frying pan set to 250 F and I'm
> using plain paraffin. You should be able to get a
> good melt at a lower temp with the added oil. I
> didn't like mine with oil, but maybe I added too
> much. You can buy low-temp waxes, too. David
> Hendley bought a bunch of low-temp stuff by mail
> and I do have the address here--somewhere. He was
> real pleased with it and I'll probably try that
> one of these days. It's my experience that 250 F
> works best for me, using the wax I'm able to buy
> locally. I find there's a right temperature for
> wax. Too cool, and it doesn't stick to the pot.
> Too hot, and it soaks in and doesn't resist as
> well. Plus it gives me a headache. Just do what
> works best for you, and don't leave the wax
> unattended.
>
> Best wishes,
>
> Cindy Strnad
> Earthen Vessels Pottery
> RR 1, Box 51
> Custer, SD 57730
> USA
> cindy@earthen-vessels-pottery.com
> http://www.earthen-vessels-pottery.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
David Hendley on wed 14 nov 01
One can't make a general statement about the ignition temperature
of wax because 'wax' is not a specific enough term.
Paraffin is the most common 'hot wax' used by potters, but again,
there are different kinds of paraffin.
For candle makers, there are three basic kinds of paraffin that
melt a different temperatures. For candles poured into a container,
they use a low temperature wax, for votive candles, a mid-
temperature, and for tapers, a high temperature paraffin.
Then, there are other additives that can be added to further
alter the melting, and thus, ignition temperatures.
My rule of thumb, using 'who-knows-what' candle stubs
and odd bits of wax, is to just make sure the wax does not
smoke. I think any wax will smoke before it ignites.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
hendley@tyler.net
http://www.farmpots.com
> I set the frying pan to 250. It doesn't smoke. It actually smells very
> > nice. It gives a relatively nice coating, seems to bead the glaze off,
> and
> > is great to use.
> > Does anyone know offhand the ignition temperature of wax? Has anyone
> heard
> > of any problems associated with melted wax?
Martin Howard on thu 15 nov 01
Are they also bad when using beeswax and vegetable oil?
Mine smells lovely when just melted on the top of the wood burning stove.
Martin Howard
Webbs Cottage Pottery
Woolpits Road, Great Saling
BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
01371 850 423
martin@webbscottage.co.uk
http://www.webbscottage.co.uk
This web-site is being updated NOW!
claybair on fri 16 nov 01
When I use wax I melt it in a coffee mug warmer. It gets just hot enough to
melt but not burn the wax. I paid $1 for it at the local thrift shop.
I rarely use the wax because I find it transfers from my fingers to the
bisqued pots not glazed yet.
I prefer to wipe my foot rings on my trusty damp rug underlayment foam.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
Paul wrote>>
My wax pot is - from bottom upwards - a piece of ply wood with a paint
tin secured to it . Inside the paint tin is a light bulb and fitting. On
the opening of the paint tin lies a metal tray that is secured temporally to
the paint tin. In the tray is a mixture of wax and paraffin. There is a
relationship between the wattage of the bulb and the proportion of wax to
paraffin which depends on personal taste . ------- Another health and
safety officer hits the valium - violate and combustible fluids heated by a
220 volt, unearthed, electricity supply !!! But its the safest I can think
of.
I prefer to use very little wax (more paraffin) so the mixture is not
too hot - just enough wax to paraffin to repel the glaze off the galleries
of my lidded pots. For decorating you may prefer a bit more. It is a mystery
to me why people use so much wax so hot, but my glazes contain a lot of ball
clay ,10%, so they are not powdery. I think powdery glaze makes the heavier
waxing more of a necessity, especially when resisting the second coat of a
double dipped glaze.
Paul Taylor on fri 16 nov 01
Dear Randy
The health and safety experts that used to subscribe to this list are
still in therapy , after witnessing the haphazard way we play with fire and
machinery. It was too much for their nerves.
Potters! a shower of chancers, diving into Raku kilns with a pair of
rusting tongs, filling the room with paraffin fumes, and drying pots off
with propane blow torches - sans sense, sans eyebrows , sans every thing.
My wax pot is - from bottom upwards - a piece of ply wood with a paint
tin secured to it . Inside the paint tin is a light bulb and fitting. On
the opening of the paint tin lies a metal tray that is secured temporally to
the paint tin. In the tray is a mixture of wax and paraffin. There is a
relationship between the wattage of the bulb and the proportion of wax to
paraffin which depends on personal taste . ------- Another health and
safety officer hits the valium - violate and combustible fluids heated by a
220 volt, unearthed, electricity supply !!! But its the safest I can think
of.
I prefer to use very little wax (more paraffin) so the mixture is not
too hot - just enough wax to paraffin to repel the glaze off the galleries
of my lidded pots. For decorating you may prefer a bit more. It is a mystery
to me why people use so much wax so hot, but my glazes contain a lot of ball
clay ,10%, so they are not powdery. I think powdery glaze makes the heavier
waxing more of a necessity, especially when resisting the second coat of a
double dipped glaze.
I do not wax the bottom of my pots . It is a mystery to me why people
find it necessary to immerse the bottom of a pot in the glaze at all (unless
you have a foot ring) ; because by glazing the inside separately from the
out side, it is possible to miss the bottom of the pot completely. I suppose
its one of those 'my tutor did it that way' so there is no other way. Even
with a turned foot ring I would prefer to glaze the underneath by painting
on a thin white glaze - I think thats a tradition in China.
-- Regards from Paul Taylor
http://www.anu.ie/westportpottery
I am writing to test my beliefs not to champion them ( I hope) - and my
apologies to the 'Bard'.
> From: Randy Peckham
> Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 09:15:57 -0500
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: wax resist
>
> For a while I was using liquid wax resist. I didn't find it as nice as I
> remember melted wax when I was a kid. I bought an aluminum frying pan at a
> yard sale, and found a block of Yankee Candle wax, that was in the basement
> doomed for the dump. I melted it, and added a lillte parafin oil. My
> thoughts were to lower the melting temp.
>
> It works great. However someone I know was told by his instructor that
> melted wax was the largest culprit in studio fires. His instructor said
> that in order for the wax to work properly it had to be so hot that it
> smoked, and then it was a risk of exploding, or igniting. She also said it
> was very smoky.
>
> I set the frying pan to 250. It doesn't smoke. It actually smells very
> nice. It gives a relatively nice coating, seems to bead the glaze off, and
> is great to use.
>
> Does anyone know offhand the ignition temperature of wax? Has anyone heard
> of any problems associated with melted wax?
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
John Baymore on sat 17 nov 01
It works great. However someone I know was told by his instructor that
melted wax was the largest culprit in studio fires. His instructor said=
that in order for the wax to work properly it had to be so hot that it
smoked, and then it was a risk of exploding, or igniting. She also said=
it
was very smoky.
If the wax is smoking....... you are flirting with some nasty
possibilities. WAY too hot.
Most of the fires from "wax pans" that I have directly heard of (about 7 =
or
8) have happened not with devices like electric frying pans..... but with=
placing a metal pan of wax on top of an old fashioned electric coil hot
plate. A couple of factors there seem to lead to the problems.......
One is that there is no automatic thermostat controlling the temperature =
of
the wax. So you have to try to "play" with the control to get the wax th=
e
right temperature. If it is the infinite setting type of control....it i=
s
a little easier..... but still inexact. With the "high", "medium", "low"=
,
type control.... the wax is usually too hot or too cold . Turn it
up...turn it down. Over and over. Easy to overheat the wax and get it
smoking away. Have a phone call at the wrong point... and you can have a=
problem.
The more crucial issue is that as you wipe a bit of the wax off the bruch=
on the rim of the pot.... a bit often goes down the OUTSIDE of the pan. =
Drips from the laden brush also fall off as you pick it up out of the pot=
. =
This then heads down toward the red hot electric heating element that the=
wax pan is sitting upon. This is the real ignitor of fires. Combine a
little tiny burst of flame with nicely smoking wax just above it and it i=
s
like touching off a gas burner.
I use hot parrafin wax also. I find it MUCH better for decorating than a=
ny
of the many brands of water or oil based emulsions I have tried over many=
years. It is kept in an electric frying pan....about 250 F. The pan is
placed under a ventilation hood with the two side walls and the back wall=
extended down to below the surface of the wax. Vented outside and up two=
floors. No fumes in the studio area. When the wax pan is "on", someone =
is
around watching it. Fire extinguisher is nearby too.
Best,
..............................john
John Baymore
River Bend Pottery
22 Riverbend Way
Wilton, NH 03086 USA
603-654-2752 (s)
800-900-1110 (s)
JohnBaymore.com
JBaymore@compuserve.com
John.Baymore@GSD-CO.com
"Earth, Water, and Fire Noborigama Woodfiring Workshop 2002 Dates TBA"=
heloisareis on sun 18 nov 01
Hello Clayartists!
I'm following your questions and answers about waxing the pots with hot
wax/parafin.
I used to do that, but I was always concerned about safety and specially
when my pupils were using the ellectric device.
Now I have not any problems: I use a modern liquid floor wax , found in
supermarkets, which does not need polishing and makes an instant sealing=
on
the biscuit.It is necessary a slight sponging after glazing but very easy=
. I
only use hot parafin when I need a more defined glazeless area.
Hugs from Brazil,
Heloisa
"Paz!"
=C9 preciso entender a Arte Contempor=E2nea?
Nova DICA SOBRE ARTE CONTEMPOR=C2NEA
Leia em
http://www.atelierheloisareis.art.br
RPeckham@COOKSONELECTRONICS.COM on wed 4 dec 02
I sometimes use a propane torch to get rid of over applied wax. Works
fine for me.
Use some care. On greenware it will pop out if heated too much too fast,
and on bisque it will crack, but the window is wide enough to remove most
of the wax.
If you don't like that option, you might try liquid latex.
Carol Ross on wed 4 dec 02
A tip for using latex... I dip my brush into Murphy's Oil Soap and work it
in thoroughly. This protects the brush so it cleans easily with soap and
water when I'm finished. Can't count the number of brushes I pitched out
before I was told about this!
Carol Ross
carolross@charter.net
> I sometimes use a propane torch to get rid of over applied wax. Works
> fine for me.
>
> Use some care. On greenware it will pop out if heated too much too fast,
> and on bisque it will crack, but the window is wide enough to remove most
> of the wax.
>
> If you don't like that option, you might try liquid latex.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Eleanora Eden on thu 5 dec 02
Hi All,
Murphy's Oil soap is wonderful stuff but regular dish detergent will protect
your brush...rub a drop into the brush before you use your latex.
Eleanora
Subject: Re: wax resist To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
A tip for using latex... I dip my brush into Murphy's Oil Soap and work it
in thoroughly. This protects the brush so it cleans easily with soap and
water when I'm finished. Can't count the number of brushes I pitched out
before I was told about this!
Carol Ross
carolross@charter.net
Eleanora Eden 802 869-2003
Paradise Hill Road eeden@vermontel.net
Bellows Falls, VT 05101 www.eleanoraeden.com
JULENE on mon 22 dec 03
In the archives is a suggestion to use mineral spirits with beeswax to make
a wax resist. At the time that I read this idea, I was not thinking of
using it, so I do not know the author to give the proper credit to. My
connection is slow and takes considerable time checking the archives, though
there is a great wealth of knowledge there. Thanks to the one that took the
time to make this suggestion even though you are, at this moment, the
unknown craftsman.
I tried melted wax for the bottoms of my white pots before the application
of iron saturated glazes. It was very difficult to apply the melted wax in
a manner that I found acceptable.
The beeswax dissolves in the mineral spirits. It can be adjusted to the
consistancy that one needs for the task at hand. When kept in an airtight
container it will store well and can be thinned with more mineral spirits.
Application can be done by a foam brush that can be stored with a bit of
mineral spirits in another airtight container. If there is some safety
warning needed, I do not know it and would be glad to learn.
Beeswax is a gift of the bees. Honey producers have it. As with many of
the earth's gifts, as our pots, it can be considered inexpensive or cheap,
but give it and the producer respect. Bees, farmers, and potters are all
generous souls. What they offer should be valued.
Translation: You can easily get beeswax from a honeyproducer, but do not go
saying, "Hey, I hear you have some excess wax you'd like to get rid of."
The wax, honey and pots are a fruit of the hive. Give back that which has
value to you.
Julene, where the honey has been harvested in time to make room for the
Christmas tree. The very best of the season to my friends and mentors.
Al Sather on sun 14 nov 04
And, another suggestion...
I have had great success using commercial was
resist (from Pottery Supply House, Ontario,
Canada, Why? No good reason!) and diluting it
with water. For me, the thinner resist is easier
to work with, and less prone to clump.
Al Sather
Dogberry Clay Studio
Maple Ridge, BC Canada
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]
On Behalf Of Maid O'Mud
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2004 2:39 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: [CLAYART] Wax Resist
Pamela said in part:
"I have a question, why would one use a
commercially
prepared Wax Resist vs. household paraffin, such
as you
use for canning? Wouldn't the paraffin work just
as well
in an electric kiln?"
Pamela Benson on sun 14 nov 04
I am brand new to potting...and to this list. Wonderful information =
here. I have a question, why would one use a commercially prepared Wax =
Resist vs. household paraffin, such as you use for canning? Wouldn't the =
paraffin work just as well in an electric kiln?
Pamela
Maid O'Mud on sun 14 nov 04
Pamela said in part:
"I have a question, why would one use a commercially
prepared Wax Resist vs. household paraffin, such as you
use for canning? Wouldn't the paraffin work just as well
in an electric kiln?"
I, too, used to wonder the same thing. Then I found
out that wax resist is liquid at room temperature.
This makes application much easier for certain
applications.
If you are doing a wax resist pattern, using a room
temperature thin liquid is far easier than heating wax
and trying to do a complex pattern before the wax
sets. Wax resist, however, usually has to sit overnight
to be fully effective.
If, on the other hand, you're simply using the
wax on pot bottoms, then parrafin or used
candles are the way to go.
So you can see, it depends on what you are
doing.
Sam Cuttell
Maid O'Mud Pottery
RR 1
Melbourne, Ontario
N0L 1T0
CANADA
"First, the clay told me what to do.
Then, I told the clay what to do.
Now, we co-operate."
sam 1994
http://www.ody.ca/~scuttell/
scuttell@ody.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pamela Benson"
To:
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2004 2:23 PM
Subject: Wax Resist
I am brand new to potting...and to this list. Wonderful information here. I
have a question, why would one use a commercially prepared Wax Resist vs.
household paraffin, such as you use for canning? Wouldn't the paraffin work
just as well in an electric kiln?
Cindy on sun 14 nov 04
Hello, Pamela
You can use paraffin if you like. It helps to mix in a little vaseline. Use
an old electric frying pan to hold your wax and experiment until you get
just the right temperature. Watch it constantly--it can burst into flame if
you allow it to get too hot. Also, mind the fumes--they bother some people
more than others. When you fire your pottery, you may find it more difficult
to vent the burning paraffin than other, more common fumes.
Another option is to place a piece of low-pile carpet in an old cake pan and
get it soggy (not sloshing). You can use this to wipe the glaze off the
bottom of your pot. Of course, this does waste the glaze, but no fumes.
Happy Potting!
Cindy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pamela Benson"
To:
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2004 12:23 PM
Subject: Wax Resist
I am brand new to potting...and to this list. Wonderful information here. I
have a question, why would one use a commercially prepared Wax Resist vs.
household paraffin, such as you use for canning? Wouldn't the paraffin work
just as well in an electric kiln?
Pamela
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Bonnie/Jeremy Hellman on sun 14 nov 04
In my experience, not all synthetic wax resists are identical. I buy mine
from Standard Ceramics here in Pittsburgh, PA and theirs dries
resistant-hard in a matter of minutes.
Bonnie
Bonnie Hellman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Maid O'Mud"
To:
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2004 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: Wax Resist
> Pamela said in part:
>
> "I have a question, why would one use a commercially
> prepared Wax Resist vs. household paraffin, such as you
> use for canning? Wouldn't the paraffin work just as well
> in an electric kiln?"
>
> I, too, used to wonder the same thing. Then I found
> out that wax resist is liquid at room temperature.
> This makes application much easier for certain
> applications.
>
> If you are doing a wax resist pattern, using a room
> temperature thin liquid is far easier than heating wax
> and trying to do a complex pattern before the wax
> sets. Wax resist, however, usually has to sit overnight
> to be fully effective.
>
> If, on the other hand, you're simply using the
> wax on pot bottoms, then parrafin or used
> candles are the way to go.
>
> So you can see, it depends on what you are
> doing.
>
> Sam Cuttell
> Maid O'Mud Pottery
> RR 1
> Melbourne, Ontario
> N0L 1T0
> CANADA
>
> "First, the clay told me what to do.
> Then, I told the clay what to do.
> Now, we co-operate."
> sam 1994
>
> http://www.ody.ca/~scuttell/
> scuttell@ody.ca
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Pamela Benson"
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2004 2:23 PM
> Subject: Wax Resist
>
>
> I am brand new to potting...and to this list. Wonderful information here.
> I
> have a question, why would one use a commercially prepared Wax Resist vs.
> household paraffin, such as you use for canning? Wouldn't the paraffin
> work
> just as well in an electric kiln?
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Anne Webb on mon 15 nov 04
>Pamela :
>
>>I have a question, why would one use a commercially
>>prepared Wax Resist vs. household paraffin, such as you
>>use for canning? Wouldn't the paraffin work just as well
>>in an electric kiln?"
Both parafin and commercial wax resist will work fine in an electric kiln.
Some people swear by parafin, and it does work awesomely, but i choose to
use the commercial wax which we dilute with water... no fumes, not hot wax
pans or electric skillets to deal with, and works well for both brushwork
resist decoration and for the bottoms of pots (and yes, you can get just as
crisp a line on feet as with hot wax resist). oh.. and it cleans off your
brushes much more easily than with parafin.
_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE!
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
Marianne Lombardo on mon 15 nov 04
> I am brand new to potting...and to this list. Wonderful information =
> here. I have a question, why would one use a commercially prepared Wax =
> Resist vs. household paraffin, such as you use for canning? Wouldn't the =
> paraffin work just as well in an electric kiln?
Hi Pamela,
I tried using regular paraffin once, but found it dried too quickly
(couldn't brush it on), ruined my brush, and smelled horribly during firing.
I didn't pursue it, but I believe I've read that people add something to it
when they use it to help it flow better.
Since it's easy enough to just "tap and centre" most pots and then apply
with a brush, I stick to using the commercial wax resist. It can be used
straight out of the jar with no melting, which is convenient.
Marianne Lombardo
Ontario, Canada
Elizabeth Hunt on wed 17 nov 04
My mentor started me out using paraffin wax on a hot plate. After I once =
left it unattended for a few minutes, and obviously on way too high, it =
woooooshed up into huge flames, catching some nearby curtains on fire. I =
have never used paraffin wax since. For much the same reason, I longer =
use old fashioned stove top espresso makers. I used to put the pot on =
the stove, then go about my business, forgetting I had espresso brewing =
until I started to smell the putrid odor of the burning rubber gasket =
that tightens the seal between the water/coffee chamber and the carafe.=20
Elizabeth Hunt, A.M.P. (absent minded potter)
Grace Sheese on wed 17 nov 04
I use both paraffin and cold wax, depending on what I'm doing. For the =
hot wax, I buy batiking wax for Dharma Trading Co. It flows much better =
and is well worth the extra bit of money I pay.
Grace=20
www.gracesheese.com
Michael Wendt on tue 29 nov 05
Linda asked about the wax resist I developed.
Over the course of many years working with high flux bodies close to their
melting points, plucking has been a problem that I sought to overcome. I
finally found a method of producing a suspension of alumina hydrate in wax
that does not settle out. Most curiously, it also stays active as a resist
much longer and leaves a light alumina powder on the bottom and lid galley
when fired. It also prevented the printing from sticking.
I plan to look into the manufacture for sale of this if others like it and
would use it.
Think of it as ITC for the footring.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave
Lewiston, Idaho 83501
USA
wendtpot@lewiston.com
www.wendtpottery.com
Linda wrote:
Michael,
On your website, you mention a wax resist that you developed. It sounds
great. Is it proprietary?
Linda Ferzoco
dannon rhudy on tue 29 nov 05
Michael, this sounds like an improvement
over most wax resists and/or homemade
resists. I'd be interested, and I don't even
have problems with plucking. I like the idea
of it as a galley resist, and just generally
I like alumina in my wax. Be good if it
didn't have to be stirred every other minute.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
---
---
Teresa Griffin on wed 30 nov 05
Michael, I will buy the wax resist. I use lots and lots of mayco AC-302
right now. We mfg. equestrian tiles in Weatherford, Texas
I do not no how to make my own wax resist nor do I care to. I only care
about fast fast production.
I hope you will let me know how to buy some form you. I do not care if you
pour it in to a ball or mason jar.
I would like to try it out.
Thanks a bunch,
Teresa Griffin
Western Woman Enterprises
Geoffrey Barst on tue 31 jan 06
Years ago, before I ever tried commercial wax resist, I used a floor wax
emulsion known generically as "kitchen wax". I have no idea whether it is
still available, but it was cheap & worked well, although commercial wax
resist is definitely better. I got a gallon can of that, I think from V.R.
Hood in San Antonio, TX, for not much money & it has lasted me years.( Of
course I am not a production potter).
Geoff Barst
Ellen Currans on sat 18 aug 07
I use both wax resist and melted wax mixed with Lamp oil.
The last wax resist I bought from Trinity Ceramic Supply seemed to me
to be the closest to the old Ceramul A by Mobil which we were all using
in the 70's.
I don't have much skill with a brush and for many years I decorated
plates by brushing wax resist over a base glaze , drawing a design on
with pencil, and then carving away lines or areas where I wanted a
second glaze color. I always diluted the wax and sieved out the bumps,
if any, and made sure it was dry before carving. Then the lines or
bared areas were wiped clean with a damp sponge, and after drying
again, the whole piece dipped in a second glaze . VERY time consuming
but the only way I could get the controlled precise effect I wanted. I
can sketch with a pencil and carve with a dental tool, but a brush in
my hand goes all wobbly. When Ceramul A was discontinued I couldn't
find another wax resist for a while that worked, and moved on to
another decorating style.
I still use wax resist over liner glazes when I want a clear line of
demarcation or to protect any part of an already glazed area. I don't
use wax resist on feet.
Many of my pieces are trays with large flat bottoms, and I find that
glaze does not sheet off the wax resist as cleanly as it does a hot
melted waxed surface.
I don't like to wait until it is really dry either, and if you put
something back on the shelf to fire much later, the wax resist seems to
have deteriorated, whereas hot melted wax remains.
I use old candles (from Goodwill, friends and neighbors, and many times
churches have boxes of half burned candles they are glad to get rid
of). For a long time I melted my wax in a small electric potpourri pot
that I got from Good will for about $2.00. Last year I realized I
really wanted the wax hotter and I wanted to be able to wax everything
for one load (around l50 pieces) during one session, so I looked around
for some other kind of melting pot. I don't like the idea of an
electric skillet. Takes up too much space and there is a lot of open
hot surface. (I melt my wax in my spray booth with the fan running so
the fumes go outside through the back.) I discovered that a small size
electric deep fryer works very well (also from Goodwill.) Mine is the
kind that you just plug in and it heats - no thermostat, so I have
wired a candy thermometer on one end. I've found that the wax works
best between 250 and 350 degrees and the wax melts from solid lump to
ready to go in about 10 minutes. I turn it off at 350 and it coasts
back down to 225 in about 25 minutes. Plug it in again and keep on
waxing. I do not wax when I might be distracted and the sound of the
fan running keeps me aware that I have a pot of hot wax bubbling away.
There might now be a small deep fryer available with a heat control
which would be better yet.
I used more lamp oil to thin the wax when I was using the old potpourri
pots. It just wasn't quite hot enough. Using the deep fryer, with
good candle wax I seldom need to add anything else, but I prefer lamp
oil to some of the other oils - smells better.
I wax with a brush rather than dipping pots into the wax, as many do
who use the frying pan. It just seems like the kind of feet I make on
my pots require
a more exact line than I can get by dipping. I use good sturdy 1 inch
and 1 1/2 inch bristle paint brushes. I find that a strip of banding
metal wired across one end of the deep fryer so that I can wipe the
brush each time I take it out of the wax helps a lot to prevent drips.
I find that waxing is a good way to get started glazing if glazing is
not your favorite thing. While you are waxing, you are also sorting
out the right pieces for a good load and separating them into glaze
groups so that when you glaze you can do a whole group of pots at one
time instead of having to decide on each individual piece. Having lots
of carts to sort onto is a great help here.
Drips with either wax seem to be unavoidable although it helps to pay
attention. My clay is stoneware bisqued to 04 and I usually first
scrape off as much of the drip as possible using that nasty little
stainless steel rib you've all talked about. Then scrape and sand away
at the spot with one of those white abrasive stones meant for grinding
rough spots. It also helps to rub a little bit of the glaze onto that
spot before dipping. How you hold the pot next to the wax pan also can
help to avoid drips.
I would not melt hot wax in my studio without the exhaust fan. I don't
imagine breathing those fumes are especially good for you, but I think
you can safely use hot wax. Like every thing else one does in pottery,
you just have to use good sense and care. OPA had a lung specialist
come twice over a period of 5 years to do lung function tests on any of
us who wanted them and to talk about lung problems. The most important
thing he said was "DO NOT SMOKE" Any careless handling of possible
dangerous chemicals in the pottery will be magnified many times over if
you also smoke.
There - that's about all I know about waxing.
Ellen Currans
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Joan Klotz on fri 24 aug 07
Because of favorable reviews from several Clayarters I recommended
the Axner wax to a friend. She is in despair because since Laguna
acquired Axner that particular wax is no longer available. She
insists that Mobilcer-A is not as satisfactory - tho better than
other waxes that she has tried. What was in the Axner wax that made
it so satisfactory and why oh why is it no longer available?
Joan Klotz,
Venice, CA.
>Your Ceramul A sounds awfully like the Mobilcer-A that I get from my
>Laguna supplier. It is in the Laguna catalog. I think it is great wax
>resist. I usually dilute it just a bit.
Eleanora Eden on fri 24 aug 07
Hi Ellen,
Your Ceramul A sounds awfully like the Mobilcer-A that I get from my
Laguna supplier. It is in the Laguna catalog. I think it is great wax
resist. I usually dilute it just a bit.
Eleanora
>I use both wax resist and melted wax mixed with Lamp oil.
>
>The last wax resist I bought from Trinity Ceramic Supply seemed to me
>to be the closest to the old Ceramul A by Mobil which we were all using
>in the 70's.
--
Bellows Falls Vermont
www.eleanoraeden.com
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